10 years, 140k+ miles, first stranding...
#27
Good luck with the repair. My guess is a broken coolant line.
I haven't been stranded yet (knock on wood). The only real problem I had was when my CSI got stuck and made it run like ass. But that miraculously cured itself.
I haven't been stranded yet (knock on wood). The only real problem I had was when my CSI got stuck and made it run like ass. But that miraculously cured itself.
#28
[QUOTE=AgRunner06]Good luck with the repair. My guess is a broken coolant line.
QUOTE]
Seems to be a rash of that lately. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/cooling-hose-help-needed-asap-53304/
QUOTE]
Seems to be a rash of that lately. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/cooling-hose-help-needed-asap-53304/
#31
Well, took a quick look this afternoon. Couldn't see squat. I'm going to get some coolant, fill'er up and run it tomorrow sitting still so I can see where the problem is emanating from.
I did notice that I have a slight valve cover leak which didn't appear to be much. I didn't find any evidence of cracks or tears in the hoses I checked...
I did notice that I have a slight valve cover leak which didn't appear to be much. I didn't find any evidence of cracks or tears in the hoses I checked...
#32
Well, hoped for the best... But got the worst.
Coolant is pouring out between the head and block on the driver side. Can I try cranking the bolt down a little to see if that stops it? From what I've read and heard, an external leak like this is not really common. Could it just be a loose head bolt at the back of the motor?
Coolant is pouring out between the head and block on the driver side. Can I try cranking the bolt down a little to see if that stops it? From what I've read and heard, an external leak like this is not really common. Could it just be a loose head bolt at the back of the motor?
#34
I guess the next question is that if I do the work, what is the minimum outlay I can get away with on putting this homey back to leak-free status? I saw the HG kit was $400, knock sensor and wire is $200 and a waterpump is around $80. How many hours will I have in it to replace the HG and related stuff? (Without any SST's)
Toyota wants $1100 just to do the HG. Factor in the other "might as well" items like a waterpump, knock sensor and wire and it climbs to $1600-1700 with labor...
Considering I can get a 1UZFE and harness with 70K miles for about $1200-$1500 + another $200 for the ECU, I think the choice is pretty simple. AFAIK, the 1UZFE bolts up to the A340 trannies. So then the only issues become fabbing motor mounts and part of an exhaust. I guess the big question is how much downtime can I afford...
Toyota wants $1100 just to do the HG. Factor in the other "might as well" items like a waterpump, knock sensor and wire and it climbs to $1600-1700 with labor...
Considering I can get a 1UZFE and harness with 70K miles for about $1200-$1500 + another $200 for the ECU, I think the choice is pretty simple. AFAIK, the 1UZFE bolts up to the A340 trannies. So then the only issues become fabbing motor mounts and part of an exhaust. I guess the big question is how much downtime can I afford...
#36
I added coolant to the rad/overflow to test it out. I run a mix of coolant/water, so I'm sure it wasn't frozen. It wasn't overly cold that day - we had much colder weather that didn't cause any issues.
#37
Cebby, it's really not all that difficult to get the intake plenum off. I'd say not even a couple hours. While I've never heard of any external leaks or loosening head bolts on a 3.0, I guess it's possible. You could try to retorque it and see what happens. I'd say it would be worth a shot. Who knows, if it works it will save you about $2K right now.
Is that really all the work you have to do to get the 1UZFE in there? Will our auto take that much extra power?
Good luck
:bounce2:
Is that really all the work you have to do to get the 1UZFE in there? Will our auto take that much extra power?
Good luck
:bounce2:
#38
Originally Posted by AgRunner06
Is that really all the work you have to do to get the 1UZFE in there? Will our auto take that much extra power?
There are some issues with how the 1UZFE ECU works with the various other auto trannies. It needs feedback to run properly. Although not confirmed yet, it appears that the late model a340f (96+) is the right tranny to use. The 3 sensors (vs 2 on a340h) is what the ECU needs. The other benefit is that Marlin makes an adapter to run duals off of this tranny.