I just remembered seeing the old one is all. It was pretty funny with the guy looking out the window and all.

 

Lets see the old avatar pic...

 

 

My buddy has a 03 double cab with a 3" body lift. Some local 4X4 shop around here is telling him to dump the 3" body lift and go with a 6" suspension lift.

He has 33" BFG AT's and wants to go with 35", thinks he need more ground clearance. A SAS is out of the question for him...

Please sound off with your opinions.

 

hmmm.. if he has a 4x4, then get the 6" lift. Tuff Country maybe.
I have a Tundra but its 2wd. i thought about getting the 3" BL, but all the Tundras i see that are lifted have BLs. Ive decided to start gathering parts for a SAS. =)

 

listen to this guy...hes the man (((4crawler)))...i got all my stuff from him.....i should have gone with 3 inches....do 2....do the most...and it looks kool....and whats really gonna happen....i've been wheeling for only 2 years but i've done some amazing stuff with my use to be stock runner....and never had engine problems......i've even sucked up water and had no idea what to do....by myself i poped the spark plugs and turned it over....got on the FWY and hit 100 mph.....no issues....ball joint spacer no problems...2 inch body life no problems....and coil spacers no problem....the only thing that can happen from to much body it the spacer go through your floor.....the only way to do that is if you hit jumps like dukes of hazard.....after everything i've done i went to roger brown and got al my parts....now i've done it all.....all i need is moab.....these 4runner work the best stock.....stock everything....just change the from and back bumpers so they dont get ripped of and you will put everyone to shame....dont be scared to drive hard just not stupid....ITS A TRUCK...

 

the reason I went with a 2" was fro drive train lift. I now have a much flatter underbelly. a drivetrain lift gives you a breakover angle equiv. to at least 3-4" of lift. a good way to keep your c.g. down.
my .02

 

I did 3" body & drivetrain lift, which nets a completely flat undercarriage.

Chris

 

Hey, seeing that this thread got resurrected anyway . . . . I have a question. I'm about to install headers and rock sliders. It seems like a 1" body lift would be a good idea . . . . . more space for the new parts. What problems, if any, will a 1" body lift create on my truck? Shift levers? Steering shaft? Brake lines? Anything else?

 

Absolutely nothing!

chris

 

Man, could you be more concise??

Thanks! That's great news. I'll order the RB 1" tonight!

 

See the installation instructions for the full answer:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ft_HowTo.shtml

But generally just some minor adjustments is all that is needed.

 

Thanks!! Which parts should I get to make sure I have everything I need to complete the job?

 

See the "Typical Kit" contents listed on the web page for a starting place:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...t.shtml#GenIII

Add or subrtact parts as meets your needs.

 

I just installed a 1" 4Crawler BL and had one problem: Major binding in 2nd, 4th, and reverse. I could'nt even keep it in 2nd gear unless i held it in place. IHMO theres nothing "mild" about a 1" BL depending on your transmission and ALSO what difference you expect in how your truck will handle. 1" is VERY noticeable with increased body roll so i can imagine what a 2" BL feels like if it's your daily driver!

For a 5spd tranny, you'll need to either modify the aluminum trim under your shifter boot (as noted on 4Crawlers website) or install a BudBuilt drivetrain lift crossmember like i did which took care of the problem but created another..not hard to fix but just something you should know.

 

The transmission and t-case shifters are usually not an issue at 1", but somethimes they are. Most folks have no isses at 1", but some do, if it is it is something that is easy to deal with. I had problems at 1" with my t-case in 4-LO, others have issues with the tranny. Either trimming the metal under the rubber boots or shifting the boots forward or back as needed is sufficient. Usually it is around 2" that shifter issues crop up, but that said, many have installed 2" lifts w/o issue. It all depends on how perfectly centered the holes in the floor are over the shifters. There seems to be significant variation in how well the body and floor cutout lines up over the shifter. In my '85, I found the whole drivetrain was shifted about 1" to the passenger side relative to the body and frame, which was why I had 4-LO shifting problems. It was only when I bolted up my new high clearance crossmember that I saw the difference. I even made a 1/2" body lift for one 4Runner and that person experience shifting issues similar to what I did in my '85

But that said, if you just need to trim some hidden sheet metal or move a shifter boot around, that is what I call a mild modification. It is not like you have to drag out the cutting torch or welder to fix it. And with the variation that seems to be apparent in the various vehicles, it is impossible to say that on a given vehicle with X" of body lift that you will or will not experience a particular issue or not. Everything that has been encountered and resolved is documented on the installation notes pages. There are well over 30 pages on the web site plus links to perhaps a dozen other writeups, so every possible issue (and solution) has likely been documented. It is highly unlikely that any one lift install will run into every single issue, but it is likely that at least one thing will pop up.

 

2" BL with 2" motor mounts and a new transmission xmember. = flat belly

then theres no shifters to extend, raditors to drop etc.

 

That's cool! On a 3rd gen 4runner it takes a 3" body lift and 3" motor mount spacer lift to acheive a flat undercarriage. It's awesome, isn't it! What a huge difference it makes.

Chris

 

I just installed the 1" BL last weekend. The worst part of the job was getting the rear 4 cab mount bushings free from the frame. They hadn't been budged in 15 years. I finally got the breaker bar slipped over the frame from inside the frame rail. The only modification I had to do was trim the steel shift boot bracket for second gear. The rubber boot was getting pinched between the shift lever and the bracket. The trim allows the boot to push down below the bracket. Thanks Roger! Great product! Now I have room for the headers and the sliders.

P.S. I torqued all the bolts to 25 ft/lbs. Is that still the recommendation? I left the rubber "washers" above the lift blocks under the bed. I read later that they're not necessary. They were stuck to the metal. So, I left 'em. Any worries?

When the truck is level is the "top of the rim" to "fender lip" measurement equal for the front and back of the truck?

 

20-30 is a good torque value:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ml#TorqueSpecs

No problem leaving the rubber washers in place (or not).