zytra

Hi!

I bought this truck in September 2014 (160,000 miles) mostly for week-end fun on nearby trails (Mount Pinos/Hungry Valley area). I took me a while to get started and slowly getting ready to get new suspension and some armor. But first I got to get all my engine issues resolved.
Started by buying new tires (33x10.5x15 BFG MT's) on the same week I got the truck which I love and will love even more when I get new gears in. Then replaced the clutch after it died on me.
I kept on pushing back getting suspension and new gear as it felt really under-powered and had (still have to this day 11/15/2015) some weird idle issues. So a couple months ago (September 2015) I decided to just get to the bottom of these engine problems. (Mostly resolved as of April 2016)
I also bought 5.29 gears which I will install as soon as these engine issues are solved! (Done in July/August 2016)

By the way here's a link to the thread I created for my engine issues which are now mostly resolved:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...roblem-291172/




08/16/2015


4/14/2016 Trail Gear front bumper installed


Upgrades done:
* BFG MT's 33x10.5R15
* New clutch
* New Cat
* Nitto 529's 8" front/rear
* Harrop E-locker front/rear
* Solid front axle from a 85
* Front diff armor
* Hi Steer
* Longfield 30 Spline Birfield's
* Slag Factory front hanger


Log:
* 09/30/2014: Installed BFG MT's 33x10.5R15
* 10/16/2014: Replaced clutch
* 07/10/2015: Replaced radiator (3-row full aluminum)
* 08/12/2015: Installed Yakima roof rack and basket
* 09/27/2015: Replaced spark plugs, checked gap
* 09/27/2015: Replaced spark plugs wires
* 09/28/2015: Played with idle screw. Affects RPM but still runs low when cold
* 10/03/2015: Adjusted timing back to stock (10 Degree) but it seems the truck is running worse that way
* 10/04/2015: Found a vacuum leak in the break booster (internal), found one at a junkyard and will replace it soon
* 10/04/2015: Checked ECT and resistance checks out
* 10/11/2015: MAF sensor cleaned up and dead after reinstall, engine won't start. Start but stalls when MAF is unplugged
* 10/11/2015: No error code reported by the computer
* 10/18/2015: CSI is sprinkling when cold and trying to start the engine
* 10/25/2015: Reman MAF installed and works. Replaced Air Cleaner, old one had a hole in the bottom of it; probably reason of some of the problems
* 10/25/2015: Replaced the O2 sensor
* 10/25/2015: Measured vacuum ~ 12 in.Hg with leaking brake booster installed
* 10/25/2015: Timing moved back to roughly 15-degree
* 10/30/2015: Replaced the ECT
* 11/01/2015: Cleaned up the TB and checked the TPS
* 11/01/2015: Replaced the Brake Booster, and measured vacuum again ~ 14 in.Hg
* 11/08/2015: Oil change. Replaced oil filter
* 11/14/2015: Replaced oil pressure sending unit
* 11/14/2015: Replaced the EGR valve
* 11/14/2015: Replaced most vacuum lines
* 11/15/2015: Replaced some parts of the intake
* 11/15/2015: Checked the ECT resistance on the ECU side (THW-E2) and it measured ok
* 3/21/2016: Passed SMOG with flying colors
* 4/13/2016: Tire rotation alignment - front was pretty off
* 4/14/2016: Trail Gear front bumper
* 4/20/2016: Replaced catalytic converter
* 5/14/2016: Cleaned injectors w/ Red Line SI-1
* 6/25/2016: Replaced the ECT again, and also replaced the ECT connector
* 7/2/2016: Replaced the TVV
* 7/10/2016: Removed rear third member (456's) and shipped it to Zuk
* 7/12/2016: Removed front third member (456's) and shipped it to Zuk
* 7/16/2016: Picked up both front and rear third (with Harrop E-locker) from Zuk's (thank you again!)
* 7/17/2016: Installed new rear third (529's)
* 8/21/2016: Put the new front third (529's) back together
* 8/28/2016: Front third back in the truck
* 8/28/2016: Breather mod (front and rear)
* 9/11/2016: Put some break-in miles (200 done, 300 to go...) on those 529's and I'm just loving them
* 9/24/2016: Bought a 83' solid front axle which came with pretty much everything including manual Aisin hubs, diff with 529's and Detroit locker
* 9/12/2018: Started rebuilding that 83' solid front axle. Replaced cap and rotor, added refrigerant, oil change on rear diff. and air filter cleaning
* 9/27/2018: Finished cleaning up the 83' axle, knuckles. Cut off brackets. Painted the axle. Installed bearing races in the hubs
* 10/3/2018: Welded passenger side 3/8" leveling plate and axle gusset. Rebuilt knuckles and started adjusting bearing preload
* 10/12/2018: Welded front diff armor
* 11/5/2018: Finished rebuilding knuckles, adjusted preload, installed the new locked diff and 30-spline Longfield front axles
* 12/27/2018:Installed hubs and locking hubs
* 4/16/2019: IFS out of the truck!
* 4/30/2019: Cut IFS brackets off the frame
* 5/7/2019: Installed and tacked front hanger, cut shackle holes, welded shackles tube, installed leaf springs and suspended the front axle
* 5/23/2019: Installed wheel spacers, tires, put load on the spring, finished welding front hanger, installed shocks and welded hoops
* 6/6/2019: Installed steering
* 6/11/2019: Took rear axle out, cut perches out, tack welded new ones, welded new rear hangers, installed springs
* 6/18/2019: Disassembled the rear RF1A to prep. for 4.7 gears
* 6/29/2019: Started reassembly of rear RF1A

Things I am/plan on doing:
- front SA Conversion
- dual Tcase; dropping the chain driven Tcase
- 4-runner tire carrier
- camper shell
- budbuilt cross member
- 4" rear lift
- rear trail gear bumper
- sliders

Tkeehr11

is that still on stock suspension?

zytra

Yes sorry for the slow response. Still stock suspension, couple things I wanted to do first.
I love the tires, they taxed my torque so I'll be regearing soon. I've got all the parts - just need to take the diff's off and send them to Ken (gearinstalls.com).
Most of the rubbing I had is gone thanks to the clearance I gained from the TG bumper.

Suspension wise, to be honest I am still debating what to do. Considered OME, SAS and even TC's long travel. The latter would fit my style better but I guess I'll probably end up getting an OME just for $$ reasons.

zytra

Oh and I've been getting some tools, decent tube bender, and a small welder. I want to build a custom bed rack of my design. I really hate this Yakima roof rack. Although they say it works with this vehicle and to be fair it does, but I just hate how the whole vibrate on freeways. I'll sell the whole thing when I finish my bed rack.

zytra

I replaced the ECT again as it was throwing me some code 22. I got the Import Direct one from oreilly rather than the cheaper one just in case. But since it was intermittent I decided to replace the ECT connector, no more code since I did both.

And last week-end I also replaced the TVV - it was a PITA to get it out and it pulled about thread off aluminum. Glad I followed Millball's advice and retaped the hole. The most difficult part was to machine that tap so that it would fit in my extended reach tap wrench. Well worth the effort as the engine is idling better.

It still feels under-powered with these 32's and all the hills in my area. So I am going to take the diff's off this week-end and mail them to Ken (gearinstalls.com) next week. He'll be swapping the stock 4.56's for 4.88's. I've had the parts lying around for more than 9 months and now that the engine issues seem resolved I can't wait to put those on.

I'd like to start putting my bedrack together too as I've got all the DOM here too.

zytra

Today I took the rear diff off and packed it up. Tomorrow it'll be on its way to Zuk to install new 529 gear. I was initially planning on going to get 488's but I figured 529's would work better with my driving habits and area (lots of hills).

I started taking the front diff off as well but couldn't get to break the CV nuts. I only 17mm shorties and no pipe to extend those. I'll stop by HF tomorrow and get some extra long ones and get back to it tomorrow night.

Overall not too hard but as with most things you need the right tools.

I noticed a few things though:
my cat mounting bracket must sometimes be rubbing against the driveshaft, probably when I'm on the trail. It's kind of odd as it seems the bracket is a little too much to the right when it shouldn't be because headers pipe that connects to the cat seems properly located (and stock) but regardless of those pipes, that bracket is pulling to the right toward the driveshaft. Not sure why.

I also noticed the bottom of the transmission and front third are pretty oily - not sure if that is normal on a truck this age. Just hoping there is nothing wrong with the tranny.

adding a few pics.


Tires off



my leaf pack looks so tired...



Just before I take the drive shaft off



Pic showing the cat mounting bracket that be rubbing against the drive shaft, at least sometimes...



Diff off, axles pulled out, brakes lines capped off.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Hi zytra-
You are right....those rear packs are very tired but you can do a "ZUK mod" to fix that

http://gearinstalls.com/weldless.htm this method uses the skinny coils.

...recommend 14" x 125 pounders
14" coils will never fall out but 12 inch coils have the potential to loosen up during extreme extensions.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RACING-COILOVER-SPRING-2-1-2-ID-X-14-TALL/290014125492?_trksid=p1713.m153.l1262&category=107061&ih=019&item=290014125492&vxp=mtr
4 inches of lift for the rears. The ride will be so smooth you will have wished you did it sooner.

Looking forward to getting your diffs for 529 re-gears. I will check to see if your ratio is 456 when I get them.

ZUK

zytra

Hey Zuk
I'm liking this mod very much! Cheap and seems relatively easy. Thanks for sharing

zytra

quick update: got home at 11PM and I was able to take the front third off the vehicle. What worked for me is going with a long arm 1/2" ratchet, 17mm socket and U-joint. What really made the difference was coming positioning myself to the front of the vehicle rather than under the vehicle. Chocking the wheel rather holding the bolt to prevent the axle from spinning was also of great help so I could use both my arms to break these nuts loose.

Was able to go through with taking the diff off but it took me a while and I struggled quite a bit to get the CV's off the diff. Pushing, pulling, wiggling, floor jacking to different heights, etc.

What finally stopped me at nearly 3AM was a missing E14 torx socket to get the semi-axles off. Will finish it today and ship it to Zuk tomorrow.

bschrader

What was the radiator that you installed?

zytra

Hey, I bought it off ebay, I just double checked my account and the seller I got it from no longer carries it. However this one is exactly the same description and picture:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROW-ALL-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-for-1988-1995-TOYOTA-TRUCK-PICKUP-4-RUNNER-3-0L-/201493757652?hash=item2ee9f6bed4I got mine for $164 shipped

Was able to finish taking the front diff apart. these ADD torx bolts were quite tight too and with no vice or anything to hold the diff it was a little tough. Anyhow it's done and it's shipping out tomorrow and it looks like I'll drive to pick up both on saturday as I am leaving for china for work and I really want to put it back together before I go.

Other than for the exhaust I can't say my pickup is at all rusty/corroded, and actually the front underside is quite oily/greasy which makes me wonder if I have an issue with the tranny or something. The front diff. gave me about 1/2 gallon and my oil changes are always pretty good.

zytra

Hi
I picked up both front and rear thirds (529's) and rear Eaton Elocker from Zuk on saturday and installed the rear end on sunday. I'm leaving for China in a couple days so I won't be able to finish/test until I come back.

Thank you so much again Zuk for expediting this for me!

zytra

Hi
Back from a vacation and put the front third back together and will be installing back into the truck this week-end.
I'll post some pictures when I'm done.

zytra

Hi,
Front third is back in the truck and everything seems to be OK.
Drove the truck to make sure and I'm already liking those 529's. I no longer need to go in first gear, went in second and it didn't break a sweat =]
I used the opportunity of having the front diff out to do a breather mod, and also replaced the vacuum lines going to the 4WD selector.

I need to take care the wiring for the E-locker.
Next on the to-do list is probably the Zuk mod since I already have the springs at home.

zytra

Back from a ~ 150 miles trip around the mountains and no overheating of the rear third so far. I am really loving the 529's, they're perfect for my driving style and the place I live.

Starting to think about what's next... and it's a tough one. I should probably install those coils in the rear as piece holder until I can afford something better.
I also want to get some armor for the underneath... I'll probably get the 3-piece combo budbuilt makes.

here's a pic of how bad my rear suspension is looking right now:

2" down travel max? haha

zytra

Hey guys,
Found a great deal on CL the other day and ended up driving to norcal to pickup a front axle from a 83 pickup. What's great is that it came with everything: diff, 529's!, detroit locker, axle shafts, hubs, etc. The price was great so I made the 700+ miles round trip.

With the rear third still in break-in I went with the Prius and it fit in just fine
I hope I can get started on the conversion soon, I need a bunch of parts still though.


83' pickup front axle inside a 06' prius

zytra

Hey guys,

Getting started, finally, on the axle swap.

Does anyone have any advice to get a OM617 swap street legal in Cali?

zytra

Here are some pics after taking apart the axle yesterday.
I've already shipped the diff to Zuk for maintenance and swapping the locker for an Harrop.

Conversion kit has been ordered as well as new axles. We should be working on rebuilding the knuckles next week; and hopefully swapping the axle in before the end of the month.
Trying to figure out what I want to do for the Driveshaft. I suppose I didn't do enough research on that prior to getting started but it seemed like people are making it sound like a lot easier than it is.

With a 4" life up front what do you guys recommend as far as spline travel? Single or dual cardan? the front diff is from 84 and the Tcase is from a 90' V6/manual. Which I believe makes the 2 flanges different.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Zytra-
Just mix and match for the front driveshaft and see how it matches up. Balance is usually not a factor on a driveshaft that only spins at 20 mph or so.








So I received the 529 3rd from you and immediately ran a test paint and was pleasantly surprised that the patterns were good.
This is the Drive side. Nice.







Coast is very good.






Here's your Harrop elocker






It's on the bench and the detroit is coming out.






Harrop going in with new carrier bearings.






Red loctite and 70+ ft/lb






Tap tap and the carrier bearings are on. More like BAM BAM because those journals were a tight fit for the bearings....no sloppy fit there.






This piece is done.....








The old bearings were kind of marginal so it was a really good move to replace them with new Koyo. Bearings and shims are all measured and sorted out. Original bearings on left and new on right.







pressing the new bearing on.








New inner Koyo race.








Fully seated....certified seated.











The new outer race is fully seated. I may have some more pics tomorrow.

zytra

Thanks ZUK!
Can't wait to get this bad boy back.

Regarding the rear driveshaft, should I keep it 2-piece or drop the carrier bearing and make it 1-piece?

Cheers!