Zimsplat's 1993 Pickup Build
#21
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I did some rearch about making the front end wider using a mix of IFS parts and v6 brake calipers (handy, I had some laying around). The plan was to use ifs hubs, v6 calipers, and rotors from a FJ60 redrilled to fit the hubs.
the only ghetto part is mounting the caliper on the OUTSIDE of the tab. I used grade 8 hardware and locking nuts... so I think it should be fine.
the only ghetto part is mounting the caliper on the OUTSIDE of the tab. I used grade 8 hardware and locking nuts... so I think it should be fine.
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Scored a pretty sweet trade on craigslist. I had BFG 32 10.50's that i traded for some TSL 33 15.50's. They arent exactly what I want, but for "free" Im not complaining! Got to roll it out of the garage for the first time too, which was fun. Needs a wash!
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Awesome work, I'm not here much anymore but I'll definitely subscribe, maybe I'll get a truck someday. Nice to find someone I know locally on here!
Take it easy,
Andrew
Take it easy,
Andrew
Last edited by Figit090; 03-17-2013 at 01:57 PM.
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woah cool work on the caster adjustments and 5th bolt mod, I like how you welded and machined that back.
Last edited by Figit090; 03-18-2013 at 01:52 PM.
#32
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Well, My yota has been together for about a year now. 3.4 Is still running strong, and somehow I haven't broken anything yet.
I picked up some Honda prelude seats from the junkyard for next to free, and found an EASY way to make them fit.
All the brackets are riveted onto the bottom of the rails.
Grind the heads off..
you only have to move the front brackets, then tack it all back together
Few more pictures I found.
made my own shock mounts/knuckle ball braces
Can't forget the sliders
It hasn't been all smooth sailing
fun in the mud
Out with some friends in the dunes
Even my girlfriend has fun
Ended up getting a little hung up on this one. Decided to save the bed and winch out. Go harbor freight!
I picked up some Honda prelude seats from the junkyard for next to free, and found an EASY way to make them fit.
All the brackets are riveted onto the bottom of the rails.
Grind the heads off..
you only have to move the front brackets, then tack it all back together
Few more pictures I found.
made my own shock mounts/knuckle ball braces
Can't forget the sliders
It hasn't been all smooth sailing
fun in the mud
Out with some friends in the dunes
Even my girlfriend has fun
Ended up getting a little hung up on this one. Decided to save the bed and winch out. Go harbor freight!
Last edited by zimsplat; 11-26-2013 at 07:56 AM.
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#37
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updates
Well, you guys know how it is. Can't ever leave something good alone. a few updates on the truck. I've had the zip air lockers installed for about a year without a single issue until a trip to the snow. I noticed that my front locker started leaking down faster than the rear. I disassembled it to investigate and found a few chipped ring gear. Not directly the issue, but I couldn't put it back together that way. some phone calls later and my 529's and setup kits were on the way. The loose chunks of teeth banged the slip ring around a bit until it was loose. some new O-rings and some bending on the clip and its good as new.
buddys 4runner
buddys 4runner
Last edited by zimsplat; 05-20-2015 at 01:22 PM.
#38
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Trd sc
Well I ended up with a deal on a TRD Gen1 supercharger that I couldn't let pass. The truck has PLENTY of power with the 3.4, but you can always use some extra right? I did a fair amount of research before taking anything apart, and decided to blaze my own path to make it run correctly. Most folks out there end up running the URD 7th injector kit, as well as the timing controller, and an o2 sensor clamp. The entire reason for all this is to try to trick the stock ECU to run correctly under boost. even their top of the line system is still a hack, and has issues with closed vs open loop,and altitude compensation. It isn't witchcraft, no your stock ECU will not "learn" the supercharger over time. Also, some basic injector flow calculations will tell you that the factory 280cc injectors will not flow enough fuel at a safe duty cycle to support the supercharger.
Why not just fix the problem to begin with by installing a programmable computer that handles everything out of the gate? Nowadays there are plenty of good solutions out there that do exactly this.
I decided to leave the easy part for last (actually installing the SC) and bought a Megasquirt DIYPNP (do it yourself plug and play) kit for the Tacoma / 5VZFE. the kit was $425. A few evenings of soldering later, and bingo! Plug in fully programmable ECU. Also, I get to say I built my computer, COOL! I picked up some Toyota 7MGTE 440 cc injectors from a supra for a whopping 40$
You can see the microsquirt and interface board above and below. The heart of the DIYPNP is the "micriosquirt" board and a main board that interfaces it with all of your engines sensors. The Microsquirt is the white circuit board.
Microsquirt talking to my laptop for the first time below
the kit also comes with and adapter board that includes a set of female plugs to mate with your stock wiring harness. the hardest part was connecting all of the red "jumper wires" from the microsquirt to the factory plug adapter board. A day of careful wiring diagram reading and pin matching later, shes ready to go!
Comparing my tacoma wiring pinout to match up with megasquirt
Why not just fix the problem to begin with by installing a programmable computer that handles everything out of the gate? Nowadays there are plenty of good solutions out there that do exactly this.
I decided to leave the easy part for last (actually installing the SC) and bought a Megasquirt DIYPNP (do it yourself plug and play) kit for the Tacoma / 5VZFE. the kit was $425. A few evenings of soldering later, and bingo! Plug in fully programmable ECU. Also, I get to say I built my computer, COOL! I picked up some Toyota 7MGTE 440 cc injectors from a supra for a whopping 40$
You can see the microsquirt and interface board above and below. The heart of the DIYPNP is the "micriosquirt" board and a main board that interfaces it with all of your engines sensors. The Microsquirt is the white circuit board.
Microsquirt talking to my laptop for the first time below
the kit also comes with and adapter board that includes a set of female plugs to mate with your stock wiring harness. the hardest part was connecting all of the red "jumper wires" from the microsquirt to the factory plug adapter board. A day of careful wiring diagram reading and pin matching later, shes ready to go!
Comparing my tacoma wiring pinout to match up with megasquirt
Last edited by zimsplat; 05-20-2015 at 01:45 PM.
#39
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The stock 280cc 5vzFE injectors were swapped out for some 440cc 7MGTE injectors from an early supra. They were nearly a direct fit except for a notch on the plug that needs to be shaved off. The supra injectors are low impedence, which means I needed to add resistors to my injector driver circuit in megasquirt. I think the tabs are there to prevent you from just plugging them in, which would fry a stock ecu.
before
after
The bodies themselves are similar. 5vz injectors are the red ones. 7mgte are silver
Injectors installed, time to bolt the fun stuff on:
yeah, shes sponsored
before
after
The bodies themselves are similar. 5vz injectors are the red ones. 7mgte are silver
Injectors installed, time to bolt the fun stuff on:
yeah, shes sponsored
Last edited by zimsplat; 05-22-2015 at 06:38 AM.
#40
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The supercharger was about as easy as it comes to bolt on and hook up.
I also installed an AEM wideband while I was at it, and ran its 5v output over to the ECU for tuning. Getting the truck to actually start for the first time was relatively frustrating. The only other information I could find on the Toyota 3.4 with mega squirt used an extra portion of the board called a LM1815 signal conditioner. This takes the signal from the stock crank sensor and converts it to a signal megasquirt can recognize. With some datalogs on my laptop, I discovered that the Ecu was getting an intermittent RPM signal, then dropping it. I fought with it for a day or two, then eventually bypassed the LM1815 circuit and tried the regular VR input on the megasquirt board. immediately after that, it started up the first try. After getting the truck to idle the first step is to set your crank trigger angle. This is to make sure that the timing you set in the software is actually realized by the time the plugs fire. Its pretty simple. with the truck idling, Set megasquirt to a fixed 10 degrees BTDC of timing. Watch the crank pulley with a timing light. Change the trigger angle in the software until you see 10 degrees on the crank pulley with the light. I ended up with a 154 degree trigger angle to match them up perfectly.
I experimented with mega squirt years ago and all I can say is WOW. Nowadays, their tuner studio software and features are TOP NOTCH. I have experience with several other tunable ECU systems. Hondata s300, Neptune, SDS EFI, Chrome. Mega squirt blows them all away with ease of use. Anyway, I had a base fuel map built in no time with a conservative timing table to get the truck driving. I was able to get the fuel tuned EXACTLY as I wanted it in less than 2 days on the street. With the datalog features and "mega log viewer" software, you can literally just drive the truck around while the software tunes its own fuel. Afterwards it was off to the dyno for some ignition tuning!
My laptop on the right running Tunerstudi, Dyno control laptop on the left
she made 190HP and 220 TQ with a very conservative tune and 87 octane fuel. This includes the two stock Cats, and losses through dual transfer cases. I could have made more power with 91, but overall power isn't that important on the truck. I might not be able to get 91 octane out in the hills. Also, I want to be able to beat on it without worrying! Anyway, if you look at the graph 200 LBS of tq at 2500RPM is pretty damn usable power!
This thing tows the ˟˟˟˟ out of my jetski now.
even on the 37's, it makes the truck a rocket compared to before. There are plenty of long hill climbs on the freeway around here. I used to be in 3rd pinned to climb them. Now i can do 70MPH up all of them in 5th with no issues.
I also installed an AEM wideband while I was at it, and ran its 5v output over to the ECU for tuning. Getting the truck to actually start for the first time was relatively frustrating. The only other information I could find on the Toyota 3.4 with mega squirt used an extra portion of the board called a LM1815 signal conditioner. This takes the signal from the stock crank sensor and converts it to a signal megasquirt can recognize. With some datalogs on my laptop, I discovered that the Ecu was getting an intermittent RPM signal, then dropping it. I fought with it for a day or two, then eventually bypassed the LM1815 circuit and tried the regular VR input on the megasquirt board. immediately after that, it started up the first try. After getting the truck to idle the first step is to set your crank trigger angle. This is to make sure that the timing you set in the software is actually realized by the time the plugs fire. Its pretty simple. with the truck idling, Set megasquirt to a fixed 10 degrees BTDC of timing. Watch the crank pulley with a timing light. Change the trigger angle in the software until you see 10 degrees on the crank pulley with the light. I ended up with a 154 degree trigger angle to match them up perfectly.
I experimented with mega squirt years ago and all I can say is WOW. Nowadays, their tuner studio software and features are TOP NOTCH. I have experience with several other tunable ECU systems. Hondata s300, Neptune, SDS EFI, Chrome. Mega squirt blows them all away with ease of use. Anyway, I had a base fuel map built in no time with a conservative timing table to get the truck driving. I was able to get the fuel tuned EXACTLY as I wanted it in less than 2 days on the street. With the datalog features and "mega log viewer" software, you can literally just drive the truck around while the software tunes its own fuel. Afterwards it was off to the dyno for some ignition tuning!
My laptop on the right running Tunerstudi, Dyno control laptop on the left
she made 190HP and 220 TQ with a very conservative tune and 87 octane fuel. This includes the two stock Cats, and losses through dual transfer cases. I could have made more power with 91, but overall power isn't that important on the truck. I might not be able to get 91 octane out in the hills. Also, I want to be able to beat on it without worrying! Anyway, if you look at the graph 200 LBS of tq at 2500RPM is pretty damn usable power!
This thing tows the ˟˟˟˟ out of my jetski now.
even on the 37's, it makes the truck a rocket compared to before. There are plenty of long hill climbs on the freeway around here. I used to be in 3rd pinned to climb them. Now i can do 70MPH up all of them in 5th with no issues.
Last edited by zimsplat; 05-22-2015 at 07:06 AM.