yotarob2005's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#141
Registered User
Thread Starter
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...kwards-207950/
Here is the link to the thread I started about my starter problem.
The saga continues, Basically I figured out that I am an idiot & put the flex plate on wrong. 1 of the 6 bolts is different from the rest & it has to be installed first to center the flex plate. I just put all of the bolts in at random. Only 2 ways to fix it & neither of them are desirable. I guess I am going to pull the transmission instead of taking the motor back out. I am really PO'ed at myself right now. Only good thing I can think of is that at least it is not an expensive fix, just a time consuming one.
Here is the link to the thread I started about my starter problem.
The saga continues, Basically I figured out that I am an idiot & put the flex plate on wrong. 1 of the 6 bolts is different from the rest & it has to be installed first to center the flex plate. I just put all of the bolts in at random. Only 2 ways to fix it & neither of them are desirable. I guess I am going to pull the transmission instead of taking the motor back out. I am really PO'ed at myself right now. Only good thing I can think of is that at least it is not an expensive fix, just a time consuming one.
#142
Registered User
man that succks, I dont even want to admit the problems Im haveing. atleast your was a simple mistake and not just plain stupidty like mine. sorry about the extra work for ya.
#143
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got started pulling the tranny last night, I have the torque converter bolts, both drive shafts, shifter & starter out, All of the wiring & linkage is disconnected & the 2 bell housing bolts that are the worst to reach are out. Today it should just be a matter of supporting the trans on my floor jack & pulling the last few bolts out. Wish me luck this weekend guys.
#147
Registered User
Thread Starter
The tranny is out & I can tell for sure that the flex plate is hitting the starter. It is centered & there are no alignment issues, the flex plate is just simply bent. I am going to try & straiten it, shouldn't be too hard, I do work at a machine shop for crying out loud.
#148
Registered User
Thread Starter
The flex plate is straitened well enough I hope & the tranny is back in, no more interference witht he starter. Also finished up putting the engine compartment back together & got her started up. Runs a little rough though. I am going to go back & be sure I have all of the vacuum lines correct & adjust the timing. I am not exacttly sure which wires to jump to set the timing?? I found the info for the newer 22re's with diagnostic ports, but can't find the info for mine. I also have a fuel leak on the cold start injector & somehow a pin hole in the radiator.
I would like to take it for a test drive but can't seem to get the brakes bleed. I for sure need to replace one of the bleeder on the wheel cylinders, I can't get anything out of it.
I would like to take it for a test drive but can't seem to get the brakes bleed. I for sure need to replace one of the bleeder on the wheel cylinders, I can't get anything out of it.
#149
Registered User
Thread Starter
I did figure out which wires to jump to set the timing & got a tachometer to be sure that the idle speed is correct. I set out last night to work on all of that but quicklly found that I left the key in the on position & my battery was completelly dead. So I put the battery on the charger & set out to find the problem with my brakes. I put a new master cylinder on it while the engine was out & I was waiting for parts. The fronts seem to be working fine but I had trouble getting the rear brakes to bleed. I was hardly getting any brake fluid out of the passenger side rear & nothing at all out of the driver side. I found out that there was no brake fluid making it to the wheel cylinders at all! Tracked the problem down to the "load distributing proportioning valve". I searched & searched to find that everyone who has ever had a problem ended up throwing the thing in the trash & swapping in an aftermarket proportioning valve. So I just ordered this puppy from Jegs. I hope it gets here by friday!
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63020/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63020/10002/-1
#152
Registered User
Thread Starter
Awesome because I need a little advise on installing it. Did the one you used have a single inlet? It appears that my stock set up has a dual inlet but infact one of the lines returns to the front??? I am planning on eliminating that return line. Sound right too you?
#153
Registered User
Hmmmm very good question. I'll have to take a look. I don't rightly recall. If I could remember have of what I have seen or done and have of that I could give out as good information, I'd be soooo far ahead of the game.
#154
Registered User
Disclaimer: This is not my recommendations and I'm not saying to do this this way. This was how I did a quick fix to get me by. Right now the runner is not running due to other issues and when I get to it I'll be changing how this is done.
I removed the LSPV and in place of that installed a T and ran it to the T on the rear diff. You really should get proper brake line and a double flaring tool to do this proper. NOT using compression fittings.
I tied together the 2 lines from the front and the 1 heading down with the upper T.
.
I removed the LSPV and in place of that installed a T and ran it to the T on the rear diff. You really should get proper brake line and a double flaring tool to do this proper. NOT using compression fittings.
I tied together the 2 lines from the front and the 1 heading down with the upper T.
.
Last edited by Lumpy; 03-31-2010 at 02:12 PM.
#155
Registered User
Thread Starter
Disclaimer: This is not my recommendations and I'm not saying to do this this way. This was how I did a quick fix to get me by. Right now the runner is not running due to other issues and when I get to it I'll be changing how this is done.
I removed the LSPV and in place of that installed a T and ran it to the T on the rear diff. You really should get proper brake line and a double flaring tool to do this proper. NOT using compression fittings.
I tied together the 2 lines from the front and the 1 heading down with the upper T.
.
I removed the LSPV and in place of that installed a T and ran it to the T on the rear diff. You really should get proper brake line and a double flaring tool to do this proper. NOT using compression fittings.
I tied together the 2 lines from the front and the 1 heading down with the upper T.
.
#156
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
#157
Registered User
Your truck has an ice maker??? Sweet mod!!! I'm going to fab up a weed wacker blender so we can have cocktails on the trail...
Last edited by Lumpy; 03-31-2010 at 02:40 PM.
#158
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
#160
Registered User
Thread Starter
Did some trouble shooting on the motor tonight....What do you know I found a problem. I checked it over for major vacuum leaks but found none. Hooked up a tach to check idle speed but it was pretty close. Still running very rough. Even though I know that the cap, rotor, plugs & wires are all new, I started pulling plug wires one at a time with it idling & found that #3 doesn't seem to be hitting. If I hold the plug wire even close to the plug I can see a good spark, so it must be the fuel injector not firing. I did the ohm test per my Chilton manual & the injector is right at the top of the range, but in spec. I suppose that means I have a wiring problem for that injector. Not sure what I am going to do to fix it, but I may have to pull the upper intake...AGAIN. I will do some searching & see what I can figure out.
Exactly 7 more days to get this thing ready for the trail. I guess that it is good to find major problems b/c I expect it to run MUCH better once I find the solution!
Exactly 7 more days to get this thing ready for the trail. I guess that it is good to find major problems b/c I expect it to run MUCH better once I find the solution!