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xxxtreme22r's 1987 Pickup Build-Up Thread

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Old 05-11-2011, 08:22 PM
  #961  
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Man, that really looks good, Brandon

I think it looks good that wide, .....might help to see it from a few feet further back, maybe?

Nice job, and nice bumper! Are you doing those hooks things in there?
Old 05-13-2011, 03:05 PM
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My top carb base gasket is leaking on my weber adapter. I wonder if Ultra Black RTV will work.
Old 05-13-2011, 03:27 PM
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black rtv is amazing. i bet it would work. and if it doesn't, you can always just scrape it back off
Old 05-13-2011, 04:15 PM
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change of plan RTV even ULTRA BLACK isn't all that great with fuel, so I just picked up a tube of #2 Permatex FORM-A-GASKET SEALANT.

Funny thing though, Ive been meaning to test that finally actually did it, sprayed the base etc etc with carb cleaner and I was expecting the idle to go up it actually bogged down and almost stalled. Anyway it was leaking on 2 of the 3 gaskets, bottom was good and dry, but the top two were wet indicating they were leaking.

I see the 1 piece adapter in my not so near future. Not sure if I like the idea of LCE's spiral because it's still a 2 piece.
Old 05-13-2011, 06:26 PM
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Well don't know for sure if it worked or not, I guess that's somewhat of a good thing. It means it's not as bad as it was before. lol. And dang that stuff is sticky as a mofo.
Old 05-13-2011, 09:43 PM
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Hey B, ...

Toyota has a Fuel Safe Sealer..... and yeah, so does Permatex(I've seen it at Napa, next to the "Water Pump Sealant", lol).

Dang, sorry to hear, man.... hope you get a 'cheap as possible' fix!

PS> They had that stuff just at AutoBone, etc.?
Old 05-16-2011, 05:51 PM
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oh hey I forgot to mention one thing I did fix, if anyone remembers this video and me noticing a rattle, I figured out what it was. It's a broken clip on the grill making it rattle off the core support.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=205VlujACWE
Old 05-17-2011, 03:52 PM
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Picking up an "emergency" Set of Monro-Matic Plus shocks for the rear tomorrow.
They are meant for a 2005 Dodge 2500 Extended Crew Cab 2WD (Maybe 4wd also). $30 a piece. Could have been $20 at Pepboys, but they won't have them in stock in time and the parts store won't match the price because the warrenties don't match. 90 days pep boys 3 years CeeKay.

I'll let y'all know if they fit or not.

Part Number 32401
Compressed Length 16.500 inches
Extended Length 27.500 inches
Travel 11.000 inches
Dust Shield Yes


Nothing wrong with mine, but gonna make a trip to Rausch Creek on Thursday night, staying till Sunday. All to help out with the KOH qualifiers. Gonna have to wheel most likely some easy green and blue trails to get to the course to work it. My shocks are too short and I don't wanna bust em up. Although not pretty (rusted) they have only been on the truck two years and I would feel comfortable selling them to someone who might need em.

Also might need to get something to extend my bump stops by 2 1/2" so I don't flatten these springs. Hopefully the frame holds above the stops. I still need to weld the outside of the rails up.
Old 05-17-2011, 07:52 PM
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Hope they fit and work out great, Brandon. Can't wait for pics of the travels and trails!
Old 05-18-2011, 11:26 AM
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DISLCAIMER: Please no one try this till I have verified by driving it and giving a full review.

After using the summit racing website to check for shock lengths etc etc I cross referenced it with stock height shocks to see what the closest was that I needed. Turns out the measurements I needed are for shocks that are meant for a 03-05 RAM 2500/3500. After looking for the cheapest shock possible for now due to needing them in 2 days I chose the monroe-matic shocks meant for the rear of that truck. #32401. See lengths above. Basically an 11 in travel shock. All the photos of this shock show stud top loop bottom but they are not. They are loop/loop.

After looking at the Napaonline site I notice a slight difference in the lopp size and hardare size. Easily fixed though. After using my torch and heating up the sleeve, I took the sleeve out of the rubber bushings. The rubber bushing happened to close a little more and I still could not get it onto the shock mount studs. I attepted to drill out the rubber with my 3/4" drill bit and it wasn't having anything to do with it. So.......... being the crafty bas... and pack rat that I am , I remembered saving the poly bushings that came out of the shackles when I replaced them with new energy ones. Well they fit into the loop. Just a tad loose but nothing for me to worry about as they are still pretty snug. And were the perfect width as well. See below photos.


Just a comparison shot. The new shock is still compressed with the strap.




Comparison of the bushing sizes. 9/16"(14mm) dodge versus 3/4"(19mm) for the toy. Weird how a 3/4 and 1 ton dodge pickup's shock mounts are smaller diameter then a measly toyota truck. But the loops themselves are bigger on the dodge. Just about the same width.





New bushing and sleeve out of new shock.



Comparison of old Poly Toy shackle bushing and the New shock bushing.




Shackle bushings in and shocks installed.





Again, do not do this until I comes back and let you know if my measurements were correct. I also expect the shocks to feel a little stiffer then the Procomp ES3000's that were on there since these Monroes are Nitro Charged.

One a side note, If I do like these shocks and they work, I am gonna pick up some new rubber bushings for them from NAPA and cut them down so there is a layer of rubber on both sides of the loops. Right now there is only 1. Which really should not be too much of an issue.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 05-18-2011 at 11:28 AM.
Old 05-18-2011, 12:22 PM
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Very nice, very nice indeed!!!
Old 05-18-2011, 12:32 PM
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heh don't jinx me, I don't think anyone on here has tried this before. What is throwing me off on this whole thing is the measurements I came up with are for an 84-85 toy 5-8" lift. I only netted 3" and that was with the 31-33 tire size change. Maybe the longer shackles are what made the difference.
Old 05-18-2011, 01:39 PM
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ok....how about i like the blue
Old 05-19-2011, 06:38 PM
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Your truck is looking great, I love the bed! and I would keep the bumper that length, or maybe angle it up at the ends... did you like the es3000 shocks you had? i'm getting some for my truck cause they were out of es9000s and i thought those might be to stiff anyway...
Old 05-31-2011, 04:37 PM
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I cannot confirm on the es3000's legth, I always felt at least in the rear they were just slightly too short. I did not measure it's only my feeling. Now the ride was great with them. So as long as you can confirm the extended length works with your setup, I say go for it. Mine did rust on the outside pretty quick though.

Sorry for not getting back sooner.


Anyway, I know the right thing to do is cut and replace the frame material to fix my bump stop areas but would it be just as safe/reliable to just sleeve the sections and reweld the bump stops to the new sleeve? I guess 1/8" plate would be good enough right?
Old 06-01-2011, 07:48 AM
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This is what I got to fix ASAP. Wasn't expecting a slightly damaged rear rear shock mount though. hmmm I wonder if those shocks are bottoming out. I did extend the bump stops about 2" as well.






This is what I used to extend my bumpstops. $8 at Tractor Supply Company. Haven't really gave them a good shake down though, I think y'all can figure out why. .





I did paint them not sure if that's rust or just mud from my last RC run. Pretty sure that's rust though. Oh and this was a quick temp fix, I want to use some 2" x 2" or 2" X 3" square tube to extend them but short notice trip to KOH RCQ resulted in me using this quick fix.





Oh and does anyone know if clutch chatter is a sign of a clutch going out? Less then 15K on this clutch, not sure but it might be just me still "learning" to slip this clutch to get the 33's to turn.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 06-01-2011 at 08:33 AM.
Old 06-01-2011, 09:14 AM
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15K is pretty soon, B! Maybe partially from the Mud'n(high RPM flooring it stuff?).... Not sure on that, just throwing it out there. Maybe you have a leaky input shaft seal and bearing retainer like I did? Mine was acting up a lil... now I've been in there and it's OK, but needed to have the Flywheel resurfaced and clutch kit all cleaned up, etc..

Could pressure in the hydraulics dropping cause this?

PS> Just out of curiosity, ...is it a stock clutch replacement? Just can't remember, lol.
Old 06-01-2011, 09:30 AM
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Could be from the mud running, who knows. lol. It's a Perfection clutch set and new flywheel from Advance.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...1251185248____
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...1251453555____

They were replaced when I rebuilt the engine. Input shaft seal I didn't replace, but was not leaking one bi at the time. Don't ask if it is now, because with all the mud and crap under there well.........

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 06-01-2011 at 09:32 AM.
Old 06-01-2011, 10:01 AM
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Yeah, true, all that makes it hard to see. Maybe you could just pressure wash the underside of the bellhousing just to see if you have a trickle, ya know? I mean, .... then you'd have to do the 'sniff' test of the fluid, IF THERE IS ANY at all, .... but at least you could rule that out.

Of course,.....I doubt the PO of yours put that seal in backward like mine! lol.
Old 06-01-2011, 12:08 PM
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brandon, i can see through your frame. what's worse: your frame holes or brian's "death wobble"?

seriously though, i think cleaning up the wound and patching it (maybe a few rosets, as well) should be plenty strong

wow. i still don't know how you managed to do that... good luck on fixing it


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