xxxtreme22r

Yeah I hear ya on the ball joints. If/When I do the BJ spacers, new uppers will be going in. Funny thing is now that I got the steering wheel straight again, it doesn't seem to pull as much anymore. That's to me doesn't make sense since in that other steering box thread of mine it was said that even if the gear box isn't centered like it's supposed to be on the pitman (Lines lined up) that it still wouldn't cause a pull just not be able to go to full lock on one side. but.........

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, Brandon... I'm starting to wonder if something as simple as the weight of the wheel being off center can cause the steering to JUST BARELY pull either way. Mine is still off a TEEEEENY bit(the wheel is not centered).... and it's pulling to the left, JUST BARELY, when I'm heading straight on the highway. IT NEVER pulled either way, involuntarily, before, EVER.

Anyway, ....I'm about to put EVERYTHING up there in, NEW, OEM(except for the upper mega travels from Jim of Downey).... and I'll find out soon enough with that bag'o'goodies and an alignment, hahaha. But I'ma loosen the yolk up and try to get the wheel straight, first.......... Yeah, it's not THAT important, ...but I think like Brandon, if I'm right.... IT'S DRIVING ME NUTS for some reason that that wheel is NOT LEVEL! Grrrrr! hahahaha.

xxxtreme22r

I broke
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Out my 6 1/2" tall ramps today and did some driveway flexin. To get a general idea of what I am gonna need for shock lengths.

Some external shots.






Gonna need some 2 1/2" extensions on the rear bump stops. Which actually coincides with the amount of lift I got between the tire size and shackle/leaf combo of 3". That's about as flat as I wanna get them. It's @ 2 1/4" from the stop and just hinting at getting neg arched. This puts the shock at 17" compressed. Eye to eye.






Looks like the bed is gonna clear. Drivers side can droop a little more than it is so It will be close when the tire defects that way. It's about 1 1/2" from hitting it.




Drivers rear droop. I think it can come down another 4" IIRC from it's current 21" eye to eye length of the shock.





Driver's side is just about on the up travel stop. Maybe another 1/2-3/4 to fully compress it. Putting the compressed length of the shock at roughly 12" upper mount to lower eye.




And the Passenger side droop stop is pretty much as flat as it's gonna get. Putting the extended length of the shock at 17" upper mount to lower eye.




So let's review. Current config requires:

Rear shocks of 17" compressed and 25" extended for a total travel of 8". Seems kinda low to me but it is what it is.
Front shocks of 12" compressed and 17" extended for a total of 5" travel. Again seems kinda low but it is what it is.
And 2 1/2" Rear bump stop extensions.

xxxtreme22r

now this is where I like to confuse myself, and I got too curious and looked up what I should have in there now. Stock height Pro Comp ES3000's.

All numbers are according to Summit Racing. Measured amount in RED.

Front: #314014
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Collapsed Length (in) 9.250 in. 12 in.
Extended Length (in) 13.960 in. 17 in.
Travel = 4.71 in. 5 in.

Rear: #321506
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Collapsed Length (in) 12.700 in. 17 in.
Extended Length (in) 20.590 in. 21 in. 24.5-25 in. reality needed.
Travel = 7.89 in. 8 in.


Now the big discrepancy is in the front shock length. If this shock is supposed to have an extended length of 12" How in the heck did I just measure 17" a 3" difference and no I didn't measure to the top of the stud.

Looks like with the new rear springs I did not gain anything in the way of extra travel. But with my current measurements the amount of travel is concurrent with my measured results.


Now looking at 3" ES3000 Lift shocks the numbers go like this. gain Measured amounts in red.

Front: #317514
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Collapsed Length (in) 11.050 in. 12 in.
Extended Length (in) 17.550 in. 17 in.
Amount Raised 2-3.00 in. 3 in.
Travel = 6.5 in. 5 in.

Rear: #322506
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Collapsed Length (in) 13.710 in. 17 in.
Extended Length (in) 22.580 in. 24.5-25 in.
Amount Raised 2-3.00 in. 3 in
Travel = 8.87 in. 8 in.


Looks like the ProComp ES3000 they list for a 2-3" lift are 2-2.5" too short in the back. Anyone remember a while back me saying the ES3000's seemed too short on my stock truck? hmmmmmmmm.

Still not sure on the front though as I am not sure on where to measure these fronts as I seem to be 3" off.....

Sorry for being long winded, but I am numbers oriented due to Nuclear Physics etc etc in the Navy. lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WOWOWWOW! lol. Great write up.... are you no longer going for the DTech's like Rob?

Those pics are really cool, Brandon, ....your truck looks great. I have a guy near me from Yotatech offering to give me a bunch of Energy Suspension stuffs. I think low pro bump stops, etc. I'll have to test everything really well when it's on the lift and all apart, ....don't wanna bind every time I droop or stuff, lol. If I do increase travel enough, I guess it'll HAVE to come with a Diff Drop and Sway Drop kit that I already have.

Any muddin trips planned soon?

xxxtreme22r

no mudding planned soon, well about a month away anyway. Na still would like to go the D-tech route, just looking up numbers and such. None of which are really matching what I am seeing. I'll have to look at some other manufactures to be sure. But I really wanna know how the heck I measured 17" extended on what's supposed to be a 14" shock.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Maybe they gave you a shock that's printed as what you see, ....bit isn't really what it says? lol. Maybe something that's supposed to limit it has given out, ....but yeah, 3 MORE INCHES? Geesh. That is odd. And you'd be going to 21" total extended when replacing, right?

nvtoyota

alright so here is a random thought but why dont you ask rob what length his are sence you are planing on doing bj spacers anyways that way you dont have to buy shocks twice and his shocks look awesome anyway with the larger shaft and body

glad to have a computer truck looks good when the picture is the right size

xxxtreme22r

No Chef 17" extended up front and 25" extended in the rear. It's funny, it's almost like the front shocks are the 3" ones already. lol.

Yeah I'll scroll through Rob's thread and see what he's got up front. But I don't have the BJ spacers up front yet only that 1" extra on the t-bar crank. But that shouldn't change the shock length requirement as that doesn't change the distance between the bump stops like a BJS or bracket lift does.

I know there is alot of talk about which shocks to get for what, but hardly anyone actually measures for them. I might go about a half inch longer then what I really need. this way I know the shock won't extend out. As long as the collapsed length isn't loner then what I need as that would create a shock stop in place of a bump stop.

yotarob2005

xxx mine are 16-1/2". I am wondering how you got the extra 1/2" of droop? I even trimmed my bump stop and still only had 16". Maybe it is because my t-bars are fully relaxed?

xxxtreme22r

Could be Rob. But remember not only is that an extra 1/2" but I also don't have the BJ spacers in there.

Do you have the OEM droop stops or Poly ones?

I am wondering how the heck I got an extra 3" on a factory height shock. That is the $$$$$ question. lol. If it was like Chef said and something inside the shock is broke causing the extra droop, I would feel it as that would be a completely blown shock. And these shocks don't feel blown.

Lumpy

Are you sure your reading in inches??? hahahahhaha




I have seen metric tape measures.
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xxxtreme22r

Funny you mention it. A photo for you once again Lumpy.

Lumpy

Ok, ummmm which side do "You" measure with!!!

Hahahahahaha

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kySh2zsdvg

xxxtreme22r

I guess I got baited into that.

xxxtreme22r

OK guys, stupid PA rust. I need a quick answer here, don't really want to start a new thread for this, but to save me an hour of searching, I broke one of the bolts for the LSPV bracket on the axle. And I cannot tell if that's a bolt with a nut tack welded on the bracket or that nut is actually supposed to come off. Because it doesn't want to seem to come out. And I don't want to break the other one if I am gonna have to work at drilling etc etc two broken bolts off. Of course nothing I see in photos etc etc is answering this and the below parts breakdown lead me to believe it's tacked on there.

92 TOY

ummmmm....i will say yes.

maybe
can't tell.

can ya maybe edit that pic and circle what you are talking about? is it something on my truck or Joe's I could look at.....joe's is NOT rusty

xxxtreme22r

yeah you know that LSPV bar that goes down to the axle there is a bracket tacked to the axle tube. With 2 12mm head bolts on it. Both the 88 and your 92 should have the same thing.

oh heck This thing: NOTE this has an extension in it and shows 4 bolts ignore the extension. It's what I am in the process of doing right now.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'ma go take a picture of mine, .....would that help? Well, regardless, I'll get one in case

xxxtreme22r

na I don't think a photo is gonna help. Unless you got both bolts out and the nut is still on there. .