yotarob2005

Looks good Brandon! I like my DT shocks, they seem to be working out well.

xxxtreme22r

Yeah with the BJ spacers it will have more clearance with those bumpstops. And in some cases makes you shim the lower (up travel stops).

I got the new bolt in on the passenger side, and OMG, it is SOOOOO much easier to crank up on these. I loaded the heck outta the bolt with anti-seize including all the seat faces. I was gonna use my waterproof grease, but thought the anti-seize would be a better idea. No pics yet though.

xxxtreme22r

Done except for torquing the lock nuts on the adjusters. Final measurement from rim to fender about 14" and from the ground to the middle of the LCA/camber adj. 14.5". I did notice a little bit of a shudder at full lock but not sure if that's CV binding or just my lack of steering stops since my hubs are currently unlocked verified both cv's are free spinning. Have not taken it for a good test drive yet.

Droop stop:




Up travel bumpstops.





Not much different, but noticeable. About 1" more lift up front.




And 1 more for good measure.





Still have to clearance the inner fenderwell yet for full stuff.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

the t-bar cranks will "set-up" a bit after driving. when i did mine, it seemed low, but after a week of driving, it felt higher

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dang, it's looking GREAT, Brandon... love your HARD TO STOP lil Yota, man!

xxxtreme22r

I gotta take that last photo again, didn't notice the focus was off. lol.

xxxtreme22r

Took it out for a drive and a few more photos. Almost doesn't looks raked in these. But it is. No doubt the BJ spacers will solve the rest. It is a little more stiff. Not unbearable though. I just don't see how people are saying they are getting 1.5-2" out of a t-bar crank due to the bump stops. Unless they are running low profile ones.

Oh yeah, and the driver's side t-bar bolt came out with no incident. All in one piece. But I tell ya what, I think I would have preferred it have broke due to the corrosion on the threads as it was a PITA to turn off. hahaha.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha, that's so funny, cuz I was thinking, "That last photo looks the most WICKED, ...but it's out of focus, sighh", lol...

Seriously, ...looks GREAT, Brandon, can't wait till you get the paint on(just referring to 'exterior wise'). Funny though....that blue was the favorite color I had on my 86, lifted with 33's. It was in cherry condition, but yours would be too if you went with blueberry blue! lol. I know, it'll be nice to have a change, eh?

Stoked for ya, B!

92 TOY

hiya still in florida.

awesome job on the inspection and t-bar thang.

no real internet here so i probably won't be back on until wednesday

xxxtreme22r

thx, and it only took me 6 hours. But I take alot of smoke breaks when I am working by myself. haha. But these are cake to replace really. I recommend anyone that is going to install BJ spacers, just buy the new hardware for the t-bars. At least the nuts and bolts. The seats should be fine.

Lumpy

Lookin good man, glad to here you finally got your sticker!!!

I"m sending the 4Runner back to my buddy to get her ready for this weekend. I hope she passes this time!

xxxtreme22r

Took 2.5 year old duralast greaseable pitman arm off for warranty replacement. Probably not bad but why not, and took the bad idler arm off to replace with a duralast FA5040 arm. Rod end was definitely bad on it, but the bushings seemed good. Crossing figures that the inner and outer tie rods are good and this solved my rotating centerlink/relay rod syndrome.

toyospearo

Hey,
I read back through your thread a ways and didn't see any info on LCE adjustable cam. Did you end up putting an LCE adjustable cam on this rig? If so do you have any photos of the degree placement, retard or advance. I understand when you are dealing with shaved heads and blocks the scenario is usually retarded and I was wondering how many degrees you moved the adj cam? I was also wondering if it worked in your case giving the motor a little more low end or high end pep.

xxxtreme22r

Nope never did get one on it, I so wanted to buy that one that was for sale on here not too long ago but no extra funds. And the other reason being that they do require a modified fuel pump eccentric on a 22r engine. I have also asked if anyone happened to know with how many thous taken off the head/block it changes in degrees, but no one seemed to know.

toyospearo

Yes this is the eccentric http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...D-48688B6B93D1
It is just plug and play with the cam gear.
I understand from a few reliable sources milling a block and a head can fuss with the cam enough to make a NOTICEABLE difference. My problem on my new motor is I didn't know my block had been decked prior to me decking it. Now I am at least a few thou out. My cam timing is perfect as far as alignment but it is definitely out of time. My cam needs to be retarded. All my symptoms lead to this. I was curious if you ever got one.
I got mine today in the mail and when I have a chance it is going in.

xxxtreme22r

whoa thanks for that, been a while since I researched it and that's new. Definitely beats modifying my own. lol. Although it's just as simple as taking a grinding wheel to it. I had my block shaved 10 thous. (.010) Which is the max Engnbldr told me to IIRC. Head is new and not saved. IIRC shaving/decking leads to a retarded cam timing. Depending on how much, it will lower bottom end torque and gain some upper end mainly where we never really go with these motors. At least not on mine. Although, I have been known to take it to 5500-5800 RPM every now and then.

xxxtreme22r

FA5040 Autozone/Duarlast Idler arm and Duralast Pitman installed.

Old "rod end" of the idler. Notice how much it's ovaled out. The was a little play also in the bushings but not much.




Comparison between FA5040 and what I believe to be the original Idler arm.




And both installed. FYI it's easier to put the pitman on before installing the idler as there is more movement on the relay rod. Maybe the ones without the Procomp steering stabilizer would be easier, I don't know.





I should have take a video to see if the relay rod was moving with steering movement when on the ground to be sure. But no movement now when on the ground. It's raining or I would check with tires off the ground like when they inspected it. Don't mind the stabilizer shock boot or the oily mess under there. lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=205VlujACWE


EDIT: GOT TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THAT CLICKING IS !!!!!!!!!
EDIT 2: LOOKS LIKE I COULD USE SOME NEW ENGINE MOUNTS TOO.

Lumpy

Can see the vid silly...

92 TOY

really?....cuz I CAN'T

your video is PRIVATE.......and believe me, I don't want to see your PRIVATE videos.

xxxtreme22r

ooops had it private and not unlisted, wanted it unlisted. Anyway, it should be working now.