mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

i meant both but as cheap as plugs are may as well replace them while they're out.

xxxtreme22r

Igniter and coil is out. But not without a fight. notice the 1/2 of a bolt still there. Oh well.





This is the plug for the switched power (black-red) and what I think is the tach / "ECU" / A/C Amplifier (black). Notice on one side the colors are those listed above and what is listed on the electrical diagram, but on the igniter side of the plug they turn to White and Lt. Brown. Lt. Brown being the tach wire and white being the switched power. Trust me that's white not yellow.



The other small green plug is the check connector (black wire). And the green plug (Red wire and white wire) is for the Dizzy Pickup.

Now this is my current workspace pretty much in my living room. haha. I just got to make heads and tails out of the wiring. In the picture you can see the connectors that I picked up from like 3 different GM vehicles at the junk yard. These will match the connectors on the ignition box itself. I am gonna use these and tap into the OEM wiring. this way if the ignition box fails on the trail, I can immediately switch back over to the OEM igniter/coil setup.

Lumpy

Have fun with that I hate messing with that stuff!

xxxtreme22r

Wiring is done. At least I think so. lol We will see once I get in the truck and hooked up. Good thing for me I got spare fuses.

I didn't have a whole lot of wire from the coil and didn't want to just put the weatherpack connector directly on it's wires. Instead I attached some bullet style connectors on it. Just in case I want to run the factory igniter with the LX-91 coil and not the OEM coil. Notice I alternated the male/female. This way I cannot hook them up backwards.




Attached the bullet connectors on the other side of the weatherpack connector "pigtail" to attach to the LX-91 coil.




Next up was the connections to the original coil wires to/from the OEM coil. Since the factory wires were so short and I didn't want to actually cut the wires, I just stripped some insulation off of then and wrapped the needed wires from another weatherpack connector along with the cylinder select wire that needs switched 12 volt for 4cyl operation to the stripped wires. Once again using a bullet style connector on the other end while taping up the coil wires. Black being coil - and light brown being coil +.





NO photos of it, but since I did not have a female single wire weatherpack connector, I had to cut off the weatherpack connector off the ignition box cyl select wire (blue) and using a standard butt style connector, attached a longer wire with the corresponding bullet connector on the igniter.


I cleaned up some of the wires, taping off 1 3-way unneeded weatherpack connector on the ignition box and wire tied the wires. Then I mocked up the connections.




I Don't think I will get to hook it all up tonight since it's already dark out and I have no work light out there and the porch light doesn't do .

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, really can't wait to see you driving with that 'F-BALL!' lol. Really cool with the 'get creative' end, B, ......but then, that's you. After watching your journey with that bumper on the trails, etc., ...heck, you could probably build a second home in the hamptons with duct tape, bailing wire and some toothpicks! lol.

Hope it works out for ya, Brandon,...watchin!

Mark

xxxtreme22r

Pay no attention to the duck tape in the above picture. I did not subject any of the wiring to that stuff.........this time. hahahahaha. Eventually those wires will have some wireloom on them.

And I got to deal with that broken bolt. Supposed to be like 25 degrees today and somewhat sunny. Some other things I got to do as well.

Anyone know if Duralast Spark plug wires are Solid Core or Spiral Core?

xxxtreme22r

I had picked up some foamish rubber mat from Home Depot while I was there picking up some other stuff to use as a vibration damper. Wasn't the color I wanted so I had to improvise.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Very cool on the padding... and 'I HEA YA' on the duct tape, lol. Stuff is great to have on trips though, I tell ya. I'm anxious to see this F-BALL'n AWAY! lol.

For some reason, .....I'm also excited to see your truck get a new coat! lol...... can't wait for for that, either. I'm really amazed, after 24 years, that my paint is holding up so well. Not the decals, but the paint, surenuff, lol.

xxxtreme22r

yeah you guys in cali don't have too much problems with road salt, but still have to contend with sea salt in the air close to the ocean as well as Clearcoat peeling/fading due to the sun.

xxxtreme22r

I am stuck on one thing though. A thread popped up recently in which I hope it gets my question answered as it might be important. But Have to know and find if this thing has a ballast resistor between the ignition switch and the Coil + and if so where it's located. I know there is one in the front in the grill area, but those are for A/C only I think. I don't see anything else around the coil/igniter area except for the noise filter. Not sure if I have to cut ties with that as well as the box instruction tell me to cut the wire to the "condenser". But not sure if that's what the noise filter is.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, it's a catch 22 as far as the paint goes.... ESPECIALLY FOR RED,..... usually, lol. I keep her coated with some good UV wax from Mothers. I order it, it's not the stuff in the store.

Far as the COIL/IGNITOR ISSUE?........ Durrrrrrrrrrrrrr!>>>>That's me, still, when it comes to my grasp of ALL of the elements of the Ignition System. I'm getting there, but I can't tell you on that one. Went fishing though and capacitor-application ignition systems, especially HO are discussed on this page.... Not sure if it will help with your F-Ball....but googling that just gets you "HO IGNITION......FOOTBALL THIS WEEK!" in the same article, lol. ....Here's one....

http://www.molla.org/DIY-CDI/SC-DIY-...icle-hires.pdf

and another....? >>>>>

http://www.auroraelectronics.com/ign...erformance.htm

xxxtreme22r

IT'S ALIVE !!!!!!! IT'S ALIVE !!!!!!!

Nothing is bolted down right now as I wanted to make sure the thing works first. But starting this thing 25 degrees outside and the dang thing fired right the hell up. No stumble no nothing. Still idles a little low 500 when it first comes off the high idle cam, but it FIRED RIGHT UP !!!

Time to pull the spark plugs, take a look at em and then check out my ignition timing. Instructions say to keep plug gap stock, but I know the Pirate4x4 guys are running like .040 on the plugs with the 6A ignitions. So not sure what to do there.

Now of course I haven't driven it yet, but that cold start is well worth it so far. lol. Probably be a little more improvement once I get good spiral core plug wires as I am only using Duralasts right now.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

suh-weeeeeeet!!!!!

you have truly inspired me to get a hold of my own crane fireball

edit: i'll wait for your test drive at least...

yotarob2005

cool man, Now you need some fresh plugs and good wires like you said for a real test! I would start out maybe splitting the difference in plug gap between the .040" that Pirate guys are doing and stock and see how it goes.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

shame on you for the crappy duralasts! Happy it fired up man. kinda curious to see what the plugs look like as i'm sure you are too. I ran .036 on my 22re and it ran fine with thicker plug wires. I don't see why it would hurt yours. Maybe try a happy mediium like .038 or something to get to where you want. Also it might help as well to look into side gapping your plugs in this situation as well and indexing them too. I've been poking around this idea for some time now and will most likely try it this spring when the shop is a little more comfy as opposed to frigid. Unless you wanna be the test dummy for it on your motor.

xxxtreme22r

I have no problem indexing the plugs. Made a big difference in my elantra with an MSD DIS ignition.

Not completely sure I know what side gapping is though.

xxxtreme22r

well my camera officially sucks. I can't get good photos of my plugs at all. Definitely oil on them, not as much as I thought would be though. #1 seems to be either running a little hot or lean. The rest as far as color look ok. Half of the side of the ceramic surrounding the electrodes is black as well, which is what I am gonna assume is oil build up.

Factory gap is .031. I think I am gonna gap to .035.

92 TOY

good deal man!!!

xxxtreme22r

come to think of it, I think I know why #1 plug looked hot/lean. Remembering I had that dieseling problem for a little while till I got the replacement fuel cut-off solenoid for the weber.

Lumpy

Good going man!