yotarob2005

You are more than likely just going to have to wait for it to come in the mail and then see what happens. Personally I would try to get rid of the ignitor since it is just an extra variable and you could always sell it on the board for what you paid for the whole crane kit.

xxxtreme22r

Or keep it around as a spare. I do that alot. lol. But your right. Just doing as much research I can. Trying not to be a newb.

Most of this is just me thinking out loud. Not really expecting an answer. Afterall It is my build thread and I can do what I want. Heck half the time I do what I want even in someone else's thread. Hahahaha But to that I say, I am just trying to fit in. Happens alot on here.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

i like the paint work on the tail gate. The teq was just an idea not ment to throw a wrench in the xxx machine Like what i'm seeing so far man and keep us updated on the ignition system. Maybe do a pre gas mileage post gas mileage to see if there's any gains there as well. Or even see if the ignition system that is supposed to give a better spark thus keeping the engine running better in extreme angles type of test. Maybe run the truck up a ramp til it stalls with a regular ignition and then with the new kit for comparison. Keep it up as i'm enjoying the thread regardless.

xxxtreme22r

No wrench mightymouse. The thought of the TEQ didn't even cross my mind, but it's a good idea regardless. It will be used somewhere on the truck.

As far as gas mileage, well that a tricky one since my speedo is like 10 mph off. Some being the tires size/lack of 4.56 gears and some being from the reinstall of the original odometer from the old non-sr5 assembly.

If I had to guess I'd say I am currently getting 25 mpg highway and about 18 mpg city. But it's only guess. With my current setup I have had the rear bumper (old bumper pre home made bumper) almost on the ground when it finally wanted to stall. SO I don't know how that will work out.

Now last time I was at Rausch Creek, I did have someone what of an issue with fuel slosh in the carb. But I think I had my timing just a bit too far advanced for the 1.5psi I was running in fuel pressure. Took my timing from 5 BTDC to 3 BTDC and no issues after that.

On the street I cannot run even at 3 BTDC. I have to run it at factory 0. This is the main reason for me wanting to try the aftermarket ignition. But remember my block is shaved down by 10-15 thous (I can't remember right now) with a new head. And no LCE cam gear. So I know for a fact my cam timing is slightly off as well.

Good points though, I didn't even think of a before and after comparison.

xxxtreme22r

Disclaimer: I do not know if this is right or not. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Ok I think I got this wiring right, not sure. Took me a little bit to learn some Microsoft Visio.

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

Now correct me if i'm wrong, but does this ignition box allow your spark plugs to fire off multiple sparks per electric pulse instead of the 1 spark? Isn't that supposed to burn the gasoline more efficiently? If so how would that be beneficial? Wouldn't the first spark burn all the fuel anyway and the following sparks be sparking little to no leftover gas?

Just trying to understand these things...

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

one spark is good, but there is still a little bit of fuel that is left in the cylinder that isnt burned... thats why we have catalytic converters to burn off that excess fuel instead of dumping it in the ozone... multiple sparks allow for a more complete burn, thus, better combustion which leads to slight increase in power and a personal satisfaction that every penny of fuel that you put in the gas tank is being used and not wasted...

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for clearing that up!

xxxtreme22r

Yup and makes more of a difference in a carb'd truck over an EFI truck.

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

I'm always a little bit leery of these ignition/spark mods. Why change what works for just an extra hp or 2?

xxxtreme22r

these types ignitions have also known to help the weber guys on inclines and such as well. And a much better low end throttle response. These don't do too much in higher rpms.

Now on a drag racer or a turbo guy these things are worth their weight in gold. Especially the programmable DIS ignitions. The addition of a timing retard controller allows finer tuning of your forced induction engine allowing you to run a higher initial timing and then automatically back that timing off when nitrous is activated or a certain about of boost is made by the turbo/S-C. You can't to that with any stock ignition. Then there is your Stage RPM/launch limiter as well. This allows you to rev limit the engine at a certain RPM say 3,000 RPM when staging at the drag strip.

Now on an off-road truck none of that is here nor there really.

xxxtreme22r

Ignition unit will be here tomorrow. Stay tuned. Hey Jerry what ya doin tomorrow? Wanna help me freeze my arse off? haha.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

pics pics pics!

xxxtreme22r

anyone else have this problem when it's 10 degrees out?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ihEBa88-fs

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'm sure it's TOTALLY different, ....but in my 66 Mustang GT/K Model, In Mammoth, when REALLY cold, the butterfly would stick and it wouldn't start or stay running. Then, when running, it would get stuck at a higher idle. I'd have to go up there and wiggle the flap.(ok, stop it! lol).

However, with all those other weird things, maybe you have a vacuum(maybe vacuum advance?) issue? Strange on the clutch portion. Wow, .....those dang gremlins! If I can find my neighbor, I'll have him watch this. He's REALLY an expert with Carbed things, lol. I know, might not have nutn to do with the CARB, ...but worth a shot... as I said, ....IF I CAN FIND THE GUY! lol.

xxxtreme22r

lol yeah practically a brand new carb, doubt anything it sticking. Choke seems to be working like it should just to me not long enough.

I started a new thread for that issue as well.

On my trip today I noticed something that kinda bothers me a little. Pretty sure it's burning oil. NO make that 100% positive.

It's acting like valve seals, from what I remember being taught, but it can't be. Brand new head assembled by EB for one and two, to eliminate the head altogether I took the PCV hose off, plugged it as well as the crank case vent on the front. Still there. Not at Idle. Only blue smoke when I take a long shift ie foot off the gas to shift. If I speed shift it doesn't do it. It also does it if I am cruising along at sat 3,000 RPM and totally back off on the gas meaning idle it when moving. In otherwords when the engine vacuum is the highest.

More to this when I start a new thread for it. Puzzles me so much that I have to post in the noob section hahaha.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

going to sound stupid, maybe simple, just throwing it out there. Could it be crappy gas with water in it? 10 deg. can seriously freeze some crap and until the gas id flowing it'll idle like crap. Just an idea that might not hurt. I know simple right. And we both know, pull the plugs and see what's going on as well.

xxxtreme22r

I thought that too, gas tank is kinda low right now, but it's done it since the winter started as well as before my rebuild last year as well.

Gonna be pulling the plugs once I get a dang chance to change out this ignition. If I don't have to go do something and/or the weather cooperates on days I don't. lol.

I'm expecting signs of burning oil though too.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

i only mention it due to experience.
Couple years back my truck seemed to run like crap and i tried every thing but the obvious. Fuel pump, fuel filter, this all ended up replacing the tank, sending unit, and a whole plethora of crap along with it. After chasing and chasing the problem was still there and i was at my wit's end. I pulled the plugs, (just replaced them 2 months earlier) to find them shot and gummed up. replaced the plugs and what do you know ran perfect. Hindsite, i'm glad i replaced a bunch of stuff that needed replacing but damn if it wasn't frustrating. Some times it's the simple stuff that gets ya.

xxxtreme22r

yeah, plugs are gonna get changed when ignition goes in too, thought you meant looking at the plugs not replace them. I'd say they are about 5 months old in it and maybe 1500 miles on them. but if it's burning oil they could very well be gummed up. Funny thing is though this stings starts awesome if it's warm outside or the engine is simply warmed up.