The4RunnerHouse's 1988 pickup build-wrecked but reviving
#25
Had to test out the front and rear lockers. Was super impressed with how well the truck did for having street tires. It went everywhere easier than my SAS monster with open diffs. In fact everywhere I asked it to go it went with little effort. I had just as much fun playing around in 2wd
I walked up this climb 3 times
Waiting for my buddy to send me the video
I walked up this climb 3 times
Waiting for my buddy to send me the video
Last edited by 86 SR5 4x4; 04-06-2014 at 07:22 AM.
#26
Haven't updated it in a while but have since done a load to the truck and now swapping the motor out for a nice 1 owner fully documented 22R that was the strongest running one I have ever driven. I have resealed everything on the long block and put it back together using nearly everything off the shelf, gaskets all new of course.
Literally the day after I mounted the 33" KM2s it started leaking out one of the drivers side freeze plugs so I installed all 3. A few days later it started leaking out of the rear plug and while the motor still ran great I decided to take advantage of the nice original one to put back in.
Also ran 1.75" ball joint spacers up front and 6-7/8" shackles in the rear for a small boost.
The old crusty motor
Literally the day after I mounted the 33" KM2s it started leaking out one of the drivers side freeze plugs so I installed all 3. A few days later it started leaking out of the rear plug and while the motor still ran great I decided to take advantage of the nice original one to put back in.
Also ran 1.75" ball joint spacers up front and 6-7/8" shackles in the rear for a small boost.
The old crusty motor
#27
Here's where I'm at on the motor, since no parts stores not even Toyota carries the injector pintle caps I'm hung up till they get here. Still little things to be done tho.
Wish I had time to clean the block down and repaint it along with all the accessories. Number one is being OCD with cleaning and prepping all the surfaces so that this thing will never leak for years and years. For a truck to drive daily and run on the trails often that is most important.
Wish I had time to clean the block down and repaint it along with all the accessories. Number one is being OCD with cleaning and prepping all the surfaces so that this thing will never leak for years and years. For a truck to drive daily and run on the trails often that is most important.
#28
Of course when working on a truck with 372k miles you run into a few hang ups. This manifold had 2 bolts broken off, one on the thermostat and the other on the coolant pipe under the manifold. Took another manifold that was in great shape just disgusting and spent 3 hours cleaning and prepping to get it ready. Here's the old one
Running the truck on 31s again certainly makes it easier to work on, also airing them down to 8 psi
Running the truck on 31s again certainly makes it easier to work on, also airing them down to 8 psi
#29
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Truck has come along ways from where it was. I feel your frustrations on working on something and having to start over due to a broken bolt. I have seen where just one more tire pulling can make a big difference and then to have all 4 pulling has to be a great experience. Fluid leaks...Urgh!!!!
#32
So I got the motor in and ran much better but there was a bad leak from the crank seal after just 20 mins of run time. I was pissed to say the very least haha, so I yanked it back out in 2 hours. Sure enough, the new Apex brand seal was no good. This is why I always stress why not to use china parts or cheap seals and thought I'd give them a second chance. Same thing happened on a 3.0 using an apex rear seal so it's Toyota or nothing.
#34
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That is frustrating when you install new parts and have leaks. I haven't heard of Apex. Where did you get that one from? Could it have been from the groove that sometimes gets worn from the previous rear seal?
#35
I checked that on the first one and it was ok. Funny thing the gasket I was supplied with was already oil soaked too so it wouldn't have lasted much longer. I ended up using ultra gray gasket maker for the housing and an NOK crank seal. I did so because if there was any kind of small groove in the crank the rtv would allow the housing to sit back further and it will hold better than a paper gasket. I'm always super careful when bolting the housing on as well because even with tightening the 5 housing bolts in sequence it is possible for the seal to not sit perfectly round. I always check to make sure the gap is the same all the way around the crank seal.
The old gasket could have gone bad from sitting on a shelf at the parts store or having something stacked on it making it not truly round, who knows. Apparently NOK is one of the seals Toyota sources out.
The old gasket could have gone bad from sitting on a shelf at the parts store or having something stacked on it making it not truly round, who knows. Apparently NOK is one of the seals Toyota sources out.