Terrys87 86 4Runner with a 2nd Chance
12-07-2013 | 11:51 AM
#1621
Awesome write up/documenting as usual... Pics galore... YOU ROCK!
Wanted to put up the Christmas lights today but it's pouring rain! I should not have put off doing the final button up of my off road roof lights wiring portal on the roof... Nothing got in, but it wouldn't take much pouring of rain to finally break through. I simply keep it wrapped up and covered for now as I cant get my truck back in the garage with the rack on and I thought we were going to take a trip to the Angeles Crest this weekend with Richard's friend... Apparently that's been cancelled, so I'm thinking of some ways to tie this up on the roof for good... I'm going to share them on my thread and I want your input as you are very creative with adding things and keeping them sealed up and making them work with aftermarket products. Have a good one buddy...
Wanted to put up the Christmas lights today but it's pouring rain! I should not have put off doing the final button up of my off road roof lights wiring portal on the roof... Nothing got in, but it wouldn't take much pouring of rain to finally break through. I simply keep it wrapped up and covered for now as I cant get my truck back in the garage with the rack on and I thought we were going to take a trip to the Angeles Crest this weekend with Richard's friend... Apparently that's been cancelled, so I'm thinking of some ways to tie this up on the roof for good... I'm going to share them on my thread and I want your input as you are very creative with adding things and keeping them sealed up and making them work with aftermarket products. Have a good one buddy...
12-07-2013 | 12:11 PM
#1622
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Hello Mark...I will keep an eye out for your top. I am documenting for a future conversion and have 3 others watching that are new to yotas. Alot of this you will already know and have seen on here but others have just started following.
I finally pounded something into my brain. The CSI Timing Switch is 24mm. It is an odd sized sensor and I always forget the correct wrench when in the yard. I even learned something.
I finally pounded something into my brain. The CSI Timing Switch is 24mm. It is an odd sized sensor and I always forget the correct wrench when in the yard. I even learned something.
12-07-2013 | 12:32 PM
#1623
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
A note for myself. Cyberhorn found these on ebay. About same price as parts store but comes with screens. >>>>>>>>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/270921195123...S:3160&vxp=mtr
12-08-2013 | 10:14 AM
#1624
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
I got the fuel system on the block cleaned out. Still need to do the EGR and run resistance checks on the sensors.
Here it is back together and I am just waiting on the Injector Seal Kit to arrive. Got the carbon cleaned out of the ports and inside the Plenun and Intake. This is also the steps to get it tore down to clean. Remove the Throttle Body, the picture below will show the 3 bolts and 1 nut.
The 3 gold bolts and the nut that my finger is pointing to is what holds the Throttle Body on. Remove 6 bolts on the side of the Plenum and there is one more attached to a black bar on the bottom of the Plenum. On the very rear of the Plenum there are 2 bolts that hold on the EGR.
Here is where you remove the harness using the finishing nail to undo the clips. Will need to remove hoses as well to get the Plenum separated from the Intake.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After this step is done you then are down to the Fuel Rail. There are two bolts that mount the rail to the intake. Above my middle finger, a 10 mm bolt( not shown) you need to lift up the metal fuel rail to get one of the bolts. The Allen Bolt is used to attach the intake to the block.
Got all of the garbage out of the Fuel Rail. The gas stunk.
Here is one of the metal pipes that was clogged. The carbon gets hard as a rock. I use a drill bit with my fingers to help break it loose. The carbon on my finger is only half what came out of the pipe.
This is the same port that was clogged. The rest were clogged just as well. This is normal as to what you are going to find on a 150k mile or more trucks.
When cleaning the EGR, this pipe will usually be plugged. I clean the EGR and put the block off plate in it to trick the computer into thinking it is working. No error codes and a cleaner motor. While trying to seperate the EGR, the pipe broke. I think I have a spare in the shed. But using this picture to show where to check.
Here it is back together and I am just waiting on the Injector Seal Kit to arrive. Got the carbon cleaned out of the ports and inside the Plenun and Intake. This is also the steps to get it tore down to clean. Remove the Throttle Body, the picture below will show the 3 bolts and 1 nut.
The 3 gold bolts and the nut that my finger is pointing to is what holds the Throttle Body on. Remove 6 bolts on the side of the Plenum and there is one more attached to a black bar on the bottom of the Plenum. On the very rear of the Plenum there are 2 bolts that hold on the EGR.
Here is where you remove the harness using the finishing nail to undo the clips. Will need to remove hoses as well to get the Plenum separated from the Intake.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After this step is done you then are down to the Fuel Rail. There are two bolts that mount the rail to the intake. Above my middle finger, a 10 mm bolt( not shown) you need to lift up the metal fuel rail to get one of the bolts. The Allen Bolt is used to attach the intake to the block.
Got all of the garbage out of the Fuel Rail. The gas stunk.
Here is one of the metal pipes that was clogged. The carbon gets hard as a rock. I use a drill bit with my fingers to help break it loose. The carbon on my finger is only half what came out of the pipe.
This is the same port that was clogged. The rest were clogged just as well. This is normal as to what you are going to find on a 150k mile or more trucks.
When cleaning the EGR, this pipe will usually be plugged. I clean the EGR and put the block off plate in it to trick the computer into thinking it is working. No error codes and a cleaner motor. While trying to seperate the EGR, the pipe broke. I think I have a spare in the shed. But using this picture to show where to check.
Last edited by Terrys87; 01-26-2016 at 11:37 PM.
12-08-2013 | 10:21 AM
#1625
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
The system is clean now. Plan on cleaning the EGR and running test on the sensors to nite. I have the fuel tank cleaning and am working on getting the fuel lines cleaned as well. After this is done and the weather gets warmer, I will start tearing down the dash of the truck to get the harnesses swapped.
Last edited by Terrys87; 12-09-2013 at 09:07 AM.
12-09-2013 | 09:17 AM
#1626
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
I took several injectors and got a complete set that matched to the same resistance. They were to be 1.5-3.0 ohms. All read 3 ohms.
Where my finger and thumb is at, these two are connected and let air flow when working correct. Both needed cleaning as were clogged with carbon. Eay to over look.
Inside the Throttle Body, you will see 2 dots and next to the flapper, there is a pin hole. These are connected to the 3 hoses on top. I use an electrical cleaner with the hose attached to a can and clear these lines as well.
Most of the lines look good on this system. Looking at this hose from the top, there is a hole in it and you would not see it without removing it. There is currently a thread posted on the home page where he is getting horrible mileage. Most likely a good tune up with great parts, timing settting, and a good cleaning of the Plenum would solve alot of his problems. He is getting a EGR code as well it souds like. I have always gotten an EGR code to go away with a good cleaning. I plan on working on the EGR tonite. I was also going to show how to test some of the other sensors, but that involved heating and cooling some and would be alot of pictures. Haynes does great at explaining alot of the test.
Where my finger and thumb is at, these two are connected and let air flow when working correct. Both needed cleaning as were clogged with carbon. Eay to over look.
Inside the Throttle Body, you will see 2 dots and next to the flapper, there is a pin hole. These are connected to the 3 hoses on top. I use an electrical cleaner with the hose attached to a can and clear these lines as well.
Most of the lines look good on this system. Looking at this hose from the top, there is a hole in it and you would not see it without removing it. There is currently a thread posted on the home page where he is getting horrible mileage. Most likely a good tune up with great parts, timing settting, and a good cleaning of the Plenum would solve alot of his problems. He is getting a EGR code as well it souds like. I have always gotten an EGR code to go away with a good cleaning. I plan on working on the EGR tonite. I was also going to show how to test some of the other sensors, but that involved heating and cooling some and would be alot of pictures. Haynes does great at explaining alot of the test.
12-09-2013 | 09:30 AM
#1627
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Here is the EGR. Here is another Phillips screw that will not come out with just a screw driver. I will need to use a pair of Vise Grips to get it broke loose. I have done plenty of these to already know it should of been put in with a bolt. Once the screw is out, getting the pipe out is another job in itself. The carbon will have the pipe stuck inside really tight. You can see in the picture that the carbon has the little pipe clogged and will be in the EGR tube as well.
12-09-2013 | 09:33 AM
#1628
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Yours was the last post on the previous page and I meant to respond to it. I plan on building me up a spare system just to have so I can swap it out without having to clean it on the spot. I will see about getting one ready so when I do come up. I have always wanted to see powder coating done. Will be looking forward to it.
12-10-2013 | 08:23 AM
#1629
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
I worked on the EGR. Here is another picture that may look like the wrong way to do this, but the screw will strip if you use a screwdriver. Get a good firm grip, but not so hard to distort the screw.
With the screw out, get another bite on the the pipe to get it out of the EGR. Leave the carbon in the pipe at this time as it will help keep the pipe round. The carbon is hard as concrete. Slowly work back and forth to get the pipe spinning inside the EGR tube and to start breaking it free. Could take up to 10 minutes but just be patient.
Once you get the little pipe out, I tap on the the big nut with a wrench to help break the rust up on the threads. The I mount the nut in a vise and tap in both directions, tightening and loosening, with a rubber hammer. I have tried using wrenches and did snap an EGRs threads one time which ruined it. These run about $150 on ebay if I recall right. This could take another 10 minutes.
After it is apart, I use a drill bit, screw driver, nail, clothes hanger to get all of the carbon out. It is rock solid in places. You can put vacuum on the hose and see and hear the plunger moving and operating inside the EGR, the goldish part.
It is clean and working but didnt get any pics. I took a wire brush to the whole EGR and then coated it with WD- for the pretty factor.
While cleaning the Plenum, I got a big chunk of carbon out of it. It is at least a 1/4 inch thick. It was dirtyyyy. It was all through the Plenum and had hoses blocked. This is why I block off the EGR.
When cleaning the EGR, this pipe will usually be plugged. I clean the EGR and put the block off plate in it to trick the computer into thinking it is working. No error codes and a cleaner motor. While trying to seperate the EGR, the pipe broke. I think I have a spare in the shed. But using this picture to show where to check.
My high tech block off plate. Using a Red Bull can. Here you can see where the pipe broke.
While tearing down the head, I cleaned the sensors. The top two are cleaned, but the bottom one isnt clean. This one goes to your water temp guage. I have had some gauges jumping from cold to hot. This one isnt as bad as some I have seen, Cleaning this one can solve your erratic readings. I just use a wire brush or a green scrub pad.
With the screw out, get another bite on the the pipe to get it out of the EGR. Leave the carbon in the pipe at this time as it will help keep the pipe round. The carbon is hard as concrete. Slowly work back and forth to get the pipe spinning inside the EGR tube and to start breaking it free. Could take up to 10 minutes but just be patient.
Once you get the little pipe out, I tap on the the big nut with a wrench to help break the rust up on the threads. The I mount the nut in a vise and tap in both directions, tightening and loosening, with a rubber hammer. I have tried using wrenches and did snap an EGRs threads one time which ruined it. These run about $150 on ebay if I recall right. This could take another 10 minutes.
After it is apart, I use a drill bit, screw driver, nail, clothes hanger to get all of the carbon out. It is rock solid in places. You can put vacuum on the hose and see and hear the plunger moving and operating inside the EGR, the goldish part.
It is clean and working but didnt get any pics. I took a wire brush to the whole EGR and then coated it with WD- for the pretty factor.
While cleaning the Plenum, I got a big chunk of carbon out of it. It is at least a 1/4 inch thick. It was dirtyyyy. It was all through the Plenum and had hoses blocked. This is why I block off the EGR.
When cleaning the EGR, this pipe will usually be plugged. I clean the EGR and put the block off plate in it to trick the computer into thinking it is working. No error codes and a cleaner motor. While trying to seperate the EGR, the pipe broke. I think I have a spare in the shed. But using this picture to show where to check.
My high tech block off plate. Using a Red Bull can. Here you can see where the pipe broke.
While tearing down the head, I cleaned the sensors. The top two are cleaned, but the bottom one isnt clean. This one goes to your water temp guage. I have had some gauges jumping from cold to hot. This one isnt as bad as some I have seen, Cleaning this one can solve your erratic readings. I just use a wire brush or a green scrub pad.
Last edited by Terrys87; 01-26-2016 at 11:39 PM.
12-12-2013 | 08:05 AM
#1630
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
I cleaned the valve to the EGR. It is marked on the sides with "Q","R","S" on the brown part as well for correct reposition. The cotton like material is easy to clean, just need to be careful with it. I also got the metal lines that connect to it cleared. One was clogged. The black top just comes straight up to remove. Will need to check the plastic lines are clear as well on it.
This line had a hard clog in it. I took a clothes hanger and air hose to it get it clear. I have fixed several code 71s just by cleaning all of the above and never had one come back yet. The tabs on the bottom willget it back into proper postition.
This line had a hard clog in it. I took a clothes hanger and air hose to it get it clear. I have fixed several code 71s just by cleaning all of the above and never had one come back yet. The tabs on the bottom willget it back into proper postition.
Last edited by Terrys87; 01-26-2016 at 11:41 PM.
12-12-2013 | 04:49 PM
#1631
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 1
From: tecumseh nebraska
I havent had a problem with running any warmer with the egr delete and it totally cleans up the engine bay, but i understand if you have it and it works. Just seems like alot of components that are subjected to cause problems that can be eliminated. I have all the egr on my 89 truck and it all works great so ive seen it both ways. Are you totally taking out the entire harness from the 22r and replacing with the 22re harness?? Or just the engine harness?? Probalbly have to do the entire harness to correspond with the gauges. Just curious.
12-15-2013 | 05:04 PM
#1632
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
From: Maine
sorry if this is answered already but I don't have energy read through this entire thing right now but is the fuel pump still doing well?? I just bought the cheapest one I could at oreillys for 118 plus 18 for strainer. I need to get mine running tmrw cause im leaving for two weeks so im use the one I got either way and don't want her stuck where she is but just curious if its still holding up.
12-16-2013 | 01:50 PM
#1633
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Hello kornhuskerwizard... I will be removing the entire harness. You can make a 22re harness work for a 22r, but not the other way around. You also need to swap out the harness under the hood that has the fuse box. A friend of mine did not do it when he swapped from 22re to 22r and his heater would not work. They are wired a little different.
To do it correctly every piece of the harness needs changed. Fuel pump is on the tail lights, Fusebox under the hood is different, and then the main harness is different under the dash. From the seats forward, just about everything comes out. I might be starting on it this Wednesday and plan on taking lots of pics. Other then getting the dashpad and heater controls off, it isnt that bad of a job. I think I have a few tricks to show how to make the heater controls a little easier. Lifting the bed off will need to be done as well. I have a cherry picker and the bolts are loose so that wont be so bad as well.
To do it correctly every piece of the harness needs changed. Fuel pump is on the tail lights, Fusebox under the hood is different, and then the main harness is different under the dash. From the seats forward, just about everything comes out. I might be starting on it this Wednesday and plan on taking lots of pics. Other then getting the dashpad and heater controls off, it isnt that bad of a job. I think I have a few tricks to show how to make the heater controls a little easier. Lifting the bed off will need to be done as well. I have a cherry picker and the bolts are loose so that wont be so bad as well.
12-16-2013 | 02:00 PM
#1634
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Hello julsruls... I have an 88 runner with nearly 50,000 miles and 3 years on the pump. I have changed several of these pumps out on other trucks as well and the ones I see are still running great.
Most problems are caused by running the tank empty. Fuel keeps the pump cool. Other issues are a dirty fuel system and then I see the return line clogged which puts alot of stress on the pump as well.
Get the exact one. Dont get a generic one that you have to add the clips to. It has been a while since I ordered one. If you call the store on ebay that will save you a few dollars as well as they dont have to pay ebays fee. I will see if I can find where I get mine from an old reciept and post it up. It looks identical to the Denso pump and is identical. They are great pumps.
Why did your pump go bad? If running on empty I can see that, but if not, these tanks get in bad shape and I updated my 88 runner with links and is where I keep the informaton on how I fix things. I also added alot more info in each link. Cleaning the tank should be listed in there as well and what should be looked at. I try to look upstream and downstream of a problem. Not just the actual problem.
I am going to put my Post # to help people locate how I went and fixed problems. Alot of the fixes below, I have updated since I actually did the repair. If you find something I may have missed or would help someone else out, send me a PM. If any questions come up feel free to ask.
Copied from my 88 build thread which is listed below............................................. ..............................
FSM's here. Use Wayback to find FSM's.
Page 1.#2 Rusted up Fuel tank. Cheap and has been working for over 30,000 miles.( As of 1/3/12)
..........#14 Acces to a fuel tank on 4Runner.
Page 2.#31-#33 How to check and fix horn..https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51644565
..........#39 How to break the 22re Crankshaft bolt loose.
Page 3.#43 Cleaning Intake, Code 71 EGR Information..https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51647988
............#46 How to change Power Steering Pulley with Part Number.
Page 3.#51 My Cheap parts page. (If you know of some, let me know, thanks)
Page 5.#82 Track in rear window that will need lubed and temp fix for getting rear window working.
..........#88 Body/Frame Swap how to Steps.
..........#91 Silicon Spray to use on hard to operate windows. Use in tracks. Works GREAT!!!
Page 8.#152 How I got my Guage Lense clear. SR5 Guage Swap Info, Replacing cracked faceplate.....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51712377
..........#169 How I got the Spare Tire Lift working.
Page 10. #185-#186 All the steps I did finally to get the Tailgate working.
...........#191 Got Door Light working/Door Buzzer from not chiming. (Not all trucks use the same box )...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51724051
...........#199 Headlight Switch/Wiper delay repair.........https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51724567
Page 11. #207 How to replace Shifter Bushing. Video provided. Well worth cost and benefit. Have done this in the past.
Page 11.#210 How I fixed my Washer Pump motor.
Page 13.#245 Installing Sound Deading Material.
Page 13.#251 How I upgraded my Extended Cab Dome Light and will do 4Runner....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51731187
Page 15.#296 How I fixed my broken antenna....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51740271
Page 18.#341 Battery Light Lit, No Guages working, No Blinkers..Fixed. #346 has more recent fixes for ENG fuse.
.............#341 Alternator Rebuild Link and Starter Rebuild Video. How to Clean Starter Relay....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51746363
............#343 Ground Wires Location link. ENG Fuse FIXED!!! Back up light switch wires rubbed bare at end of protective sleeve. 3.0 Grounds location from NCTTORA.... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51746688
.............#348 MY Personal Reminders Page.
Page 18. #352 Picture and location of Fusible Link....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51747852
.............#353 How I fixed my erratic water temp guage. Gates hose PN# 20801....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51747857
page 20. #382 Broken Mirror Mount Replacement.
..............#384 Interior Paint Code for Cranberry Red Interior ( 3P1 ). Also a link for Gray Interiors by DeathCougar.
..............#396 How to Jump TE1 and E1 to get Check Engine Light Codes. Codes are in Haynes starting on Page 6-36. Diagnostic port for 87 and newer is top picture. 86 and older is the bottom picture....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51760299
Page 22. #424 Zuk Mod info.
Page 22. #439 Drivers side kick panel fuses. How to remove Fusebox...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51774770
page 23.#451 How to Replace Dash Pad....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51778558
Page 26. #502 How to add Front Door Pockets....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51788905
Page 27. #530 Adding Rear Passenger Pockets....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51793495
Page 28. #551 Tail Light Conversion PN# 43315 and Part Numbers for Door Seals. Right Door PN# 6786189105 and Left Door PN# 6786289104 with wing glass.
Page 26. #636 MY TUNE UP PAGE.
Page 33. #660 Installing a distributor. Great Video provided....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51893036
.............#661 Installing a Maplight...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51893038
............#664 Location of Circuit Open Relay, Operates fuel pump.
............#664 Wiper Delay box and Cable needed to install Wiper Delay. Will need Multifunction Combo switch with delay.
...........#664 Troubleshooting steps for non firing fuel injectors. Most likely bad connections in the wiring harness. Remove factory clips and solder the wires together. Link to injector differences....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ectors-127606/
Page #42. #831 Diff Breather Extention...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51955864
Page #45 #882 Old and New Style Block Differences...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51960488
............. #889 Front axle info page. Vacuum Line Link, Steering Gearbox linkage link. Rear Seal Replacement.
Page #57 #1122 "L" Trim Removal Steps....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52139859
Chefyotas V6 Brake upgrade write up. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52043992
Most problems are caused by running the tank empty. Fuel keeps the pump cool. Other issues are a dirty fuel system and then I see the return line clogged which puts alot of stress on the pump as well.
Get the exact one. Dont get a generic one that you have to add the clips to. It has been a while since I ordered one. If you call the store on ebay that will save you a few dollars as well as they dont have to pay ebays fee. I will see if I can find where I get mine from an old reciept and post it up. It looks identical to the Denso pump and is identical. They are great pumps.
Why did your pump go bad? If running on empty I can see that, but if not, these tanks get in bad shape and I updated my 88 runner with links and is where I keep the informaton on how I fix things. I also added alot more info in each link. Cleaning the tank should be listed in there as well and what should be looked at. I try to look upstream and downstream of a problem. Not just the actual problem.
I am going to put my Post # to help people locate how I went and fixed problems. Alot of the fixes below, I have updated since I actually did the repair. If you find something I may have missed or would help someone else out, send me a PM. If any questions come up feel free to ask.
Copied from my 88 build thread which is listed below............................................. ..............................
FSM's here. Use Wayback to find FSM's.
Page 1.#2 Rusted up Fuel tank. Cheap and has been working for over 30,000 miles.( As of 1/3/12)
..........#14 Acces to a fuel tank on 4Runner.
Page 2.#31-#33 How to check and fix horn..https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51644565
..........#39 How to break the 22re Crankshaft bolt loose.
Page 3.#43 Cleaning Intake, Code 71 EGR Information..https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51647988
............#46 How to change Power Steering Pulley with Part Number.
Page 3.#51 My Cheap parts page. (If you know of some, let me know, thanks)
Page 5.#82 Track in rear window that will need lubed and temp fix for getting rear window working.
..........#88 Body/Frame Swap how to Steps.
..........#91 Silicon Spray to use on hard to operate windows. Use in tracks. Works GREAT!!!
Page 8.#152 How I got my Guage Lense clear. SR5 Guage Swap Info, Replacing cracked faceplate.....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51712377
..........#169 How I got the Spare Tire Lift working.
Page 10. #185-#186 All the steps I did finally to get the Tailgate working.
...........#191 Got Door Light working/Door Buzzer from not chiming. (Not all trucks use the same box )...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51724051
...........#199 Headlight Switch/Wiper delay repair.........https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51724567
Page 11. #207 How to replace Shifter Bushing. Video provided. Well worth cost and benefit. Have done this in the past.
Page 11.#210 How I fixed my Washer Pump motor.
Page 13.#245 Installing Sound Deading Material.
Page 13.#251 How I upgraded my Extended Cab Dome Light and will do 4Runner....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51731187
Page 15.#296 How I fixed my broken antenna....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51740271
Page 18.#341 Battery Light Lit, No Guages working, No Blinkers..Fixed. #346 has more recent fixes for ENG fuse.
.............#341 Alternator Rebuild Link and Starter Rebuild Video. How to Clean Starter Relay....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51746363
............#343 Ground Wires Location link. ENG Fuse FIXED!!! Back up light switch wires rubbed bare at end of protective sleeve. 3.0 Grounds location from NCTTORA.... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51746688
.............#348 MY Personal Reminders Page.
Page 18. #352 Picture and location of Fusible Link....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51747852
.............#353 How I fixed my erratic water temp guage. Gates hose PN# 20801....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51747857
page 20. #382 Broken Mirror Mount Replacement.
..............#384 Interior Paint Code for Cranberry Red Interior ( 3P1 ). Also a link for Gray Interiors by DeathCougar.
..............#396 How to Jump TE1 and E1 to get Check Engine Light Codes. Codes are in Haynes starting on Page 6-36. Diagnostic port for 87 and newer is top picture. 86 and older is the bottom picture....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51760299
Page 22. #424 Zuk Mod info.
Page 22. #439 Drivers side kick panel fuses. How to remove Fusebox...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51774770
page 23.#451 How to Replace Dash Pad....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51778558
Page 26. #502 How to add Front Door Pockets....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51788905
Page 27. #530 Adding Rear Passenger Pockets....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51793495
Page 28. #551 Tail Light Conversion PN# 43315 and Part Numbers for Door Seals. Right Door PN# 6786189105 and Left Door PN# 6786289104 with wing glass.
Page 26. #636 MY TUNE UP PAGE.
Page 33. #660 Installing a distributor. Great Video provided....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51893036
.............#661 Installing a Maplight...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51893038
............#664 Location of Circuit Open Relay, Operates fuel pump.
............#664 Wiper Delay box and Cable needed to install Wiper Delay. Will need Multifunction Combo switch with delay.
...........#664 Troubleshooting steps for non firing fuel injectors. Most likely bad connections in the wiring harness. Remove factory clips and solder the wires together. Link to injector differences....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ectors-127606/
Page #42. #831 Diff Breather Extention...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51955864
Page #45 #882 Old and New Style Block Differences...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51960488
............. #889 Front axle info page. Vacuum Line Link, Steering Gearbox linkage link. Rear Seal Replacement.
Page #57 #1122 "L" Trim Removal Steps....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52139859
Chefyotas V6 Brake upgrade write up. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52043992
12-16-2013 | 02:10 PM
#1635
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
Mostly a reminder for me but some info that I found out the other day. I helped a friend strip down a rusted 1st gen truck. Frame rusted in half and no floorboards or cab mounts. I have always removed a 1st gen trucks dash one peice at a time. We decided if we could find a way of removing the whole dash in one piece.
To remove the dash, remove the speedometer assembly and steering column. There is a bracket that is attached to the firewall and the dash. The bolts to the firewall and staight above where the steering column need removed. A bolt on each side of the dash on the ends by the door post, and the 5 bolts that hold the VIN plate will need removed. We did this with the windshield out.
Once the bolts are out, set the dash on the seat and undo all of the wiring connections. One of the wiring harness to the heater assembly will be difficult, but removing the heater assembly is the easy way to get to it. I dont know if you could install the whole dash this way, but it keeps it all together. This dash even had the factory 8 track tape player that had Toyota stamped on the cover. I should gotten some pictures. Doh!!!
To remove the dash, remove the speedometer assembly and steering column. There is a bracket that is attached to the firewall and the dash. The bolts to the firewall and staight above where the steering column need removed. A bolt on each side of the dash on the ends by the door post, and the 5 bolts that hold the VIN plate will need removed. We did this with the windshield out.
Once the bolts are out, set the dash on the seat and undo all of the wiring connections. One of the wiring harness to the heater assembly will be difficult, but removing the heater assembly is the easy way to get to it. I dont know if you could install the whole dash this way, but it keeps it all together. This dash even had the factory 8 track tape player that had Toyota stamped on the cover. I should gotten some pictures. Doh!!!
12-16-2013 | 02:23 PM
#1636
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
We got a lot of freezing rain and snow and it caused a big mess. My brother put his truck in the ditch at about 15 miles an hour on a slope. I think he may have bent the tie rod or something minor in it. He has done alot to this truck since I have had it. New motor, clutch, Webber carb, tires and shocks. I drove it recently and it feels like you are driving a new truck and you are on rails.
Misty did a 360 in her runner and didnt do any damage. Scared her a little bit.
Here is Steves truck. It is getting nicer a little at at time.
Misty did a 360 in her runner and didnt do any damage. Scared her a little bit.
Here is Steves truck. It is getting nicer a little at at time.
12-16-2013 | 02:29 PM
#1637
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,787
Likes: 25
From: Anderson Missouri
A future project that I want to try later. A friend of mine is fixing a 98 Dodge Ram. He was telling me that to add a temp and compass from a dodge is simple as adding a sensor under the hood and 2 power wires.
I will look at adding it below the stereo or something that looks like it belong. It wont be tacky looking. I am eventually going to replace the headliner in my runner when I get a good one and might see about mounting it overhead. I can not get the stains out of the headliner and soon as the yards dry out, I will be getting one from a runner that has a good one.
Here is one from the Ram.
Control Module behind the display.
Sensor under the hood.
I will look at adding it below the stereo or something that looks like it belong. It wont be tacky looking. I am eventually going to replace the headliner in my runner when I get a good one and might see about mounting it overhead. I can not get the stains out of the headliner and soon as the yards dry out, I will be getting one from a runner that has a good one.
Here is one from the Ram.
Control Module behind the display.
Sensor under the hood.
12-16-2013 | 03:09 PM
#1638
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 4
From: Idaho
cold as its been id like to have a temp sensor
98 dodge huh nice idea i look forward to seeing how ya do it terry
id be willing to remove the under radio not so useful cup holder i got for a blank panel to put in the compass an temp
98 dodge huh nice idea i look forward to seeing how ya do it terry
id be willing to remove the under radio not so useful cup holder i got for a blank panel to put in the compass an temp
12-17-2013 | 07:45 AM
#1639
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
From: Fernie, British Columbia, Canada
Hmmm temp sensor would be awesome, to b ad i have a sunroof. Good write up on EGR cleaning Terry! always love seeing what you accomplish because you document it so well.
