Nice job on the exhaust Terry. I like the nice clean, tucked up underneath look. That's how I did mine. I used two 45's to get it up and high out of the way.

Have you tried to swap out the actual blower motor yet? Maybe it's acting funny at lower voltage settings via the resistor and switch and will not turn on?? Just a thought. A long shot but who knows. I've had a lot of parts do crazy things I could not explain.

 

Thanks Gizzler00...In my 85 everything works and I moved everything but the wiring harness. I even took the blower out of my 85 to see if that would fix it. I would break out the volt meter, but when it is working on high, I really don't know where to start chasing power at. I am sure I will eventually get it, but every truck I have ever worked on always throws another curve ball. I keep thinking I will eventually know all of their little problems but Toyota still keeps coming up with new ones or ones I haven't seen yet.

 

I hope I have found the wiper delay issue. I pulled the delay box and on the back side you could see that it got really hot and melted the back of the box. I tried to open it up and see if you could just replace a resistor or capacitor to fix it but it was so melted that it busted the case and didn't survive my disassembly. Should of gotten a picture of it just so others could know. It goes in the passenger kick panel behind the computer and looking at the box it will look normal. The melted part will be against the pillar where you cant see it. You have to take the box out to see the damage.

I went to the bone yard today and got a new one. Several of the trucks out there were missing the delay box and the owner of the yard says that is an item he sells quite often. I will get the box in here shortly and see if that fixes it. Here is the box.



Started buffing out the 86. The clear coat had some orange peel to it. I also had a few runs in the clear coat. I have never gotten a run in paint, but have several times with clear coat. If it is going to run, you want it in the clear coat. I got one of the runs worked out that I cant even find it.

I am color sanding with 1500 grit and then going over it with a rubbing compound. I will eventually wax it with my electric drill and a sponge pad. Sand paper may sound scary, bit you will do more damage with a rubbing compound and a buffer then you will with sandpaper. Buffer is easier, but it will get you in trouble quick.


Probably not showing in the pictures, but I go over the edges quickly and don't stay on them long at all or you will burn thru. I will cover the edges with tape and try to get it a little smoother where I am worried about burning thru. I would rather leave some orange peel then burn thru. It is getting smoother and when wet sanding, you can start to feel less resistance in the paper and gives you and idea that you are getting to where you want to be. I have heard of sanding all the way up to 3000 grit which would like be sanding with newspaper. I ever went that far, I would be afraid to drive it as it would get dirty. That would be a lot of work, but sure it would look great.

 

I changed the Wiper Delay box and that didn't fix anything. Looked all over the net and couldn't find out anything there as well. Guess I will need to break out the FSM and see what checks it says to do. I was hoping it was something as simple as cleaning some contacts or something like that.

Looked all over the net for information on the lower Blower Motor Speeds and hadn't really found anything there that I hadn't looked at.

Did make some forward progress. Got the bed sides and the extra cab part of the truck smoothed out so was happy with that. Tomorrow I may get to stick the rest of the trim on.

 

Nice work Terry.

I never knew that green box was for the wiper delay. I have seen them a million times and never knew that.
Could it be in the wiper switch? I don't reopened if you replaced that or not. Maybe the contacts are worn out in it. If I remember right, thy are a pain to swap out.


Puzzled on the blower motor. Not sure what could be causing that for you. Maybe there's a serious draw in the harness preventing it from coming on at low speeds? Bad ground in the circuit?


Paint looks great!! I really would love to paint my 4runner some day. I only know enough to get me in trouble when it comes to that stuff.
I can do body work pretty good but that's about the extent of it.

I do have quite a few paint guns. Some old brinks and divilbiss. And two new gravity fed divilbiss ones but never tried them out.

 

Nice work on the buffering, I can't wait to see it after you wax it. It's going to be awesome.

 

paints looking nice terry might want to try a different wiper stalk? might it be in the control itself?

 

Terry i have a tech question for you, actually I'm just curious because I can't find what you did on your conversion of the 22r to 22re. I'm getting the 22r motor sometime this week, it's just waiting for me as I moved the entire truck you saw in that picture. it's pretty much out of the way and waiting for me to take the motor and tranny/transfer out plus a bunch of other stuff.

My question for you is what did you do with the exhaust as there is a difference with the exhaust. i'm going to take the exhaust manifold that is on the truck now, it looks pretty rusted as its been sitting awhile. I don't know if it will make a difference as far as performance (though I think it may just a little), it's pretty different than the one on my truck now its like a bunch of tubes running around there with a port opening for the O2 sensor on one of the tubes as oppose to one glob of pipe leading to a y-pipe.

I'm going wait and see if someone will drive into the yard with a toyota pickup 4x4 (either 6cyl or 4 cyl) get him to get a price from the scrap yard and then offer him a few more dollars for it. I plan on using it for that Sunrader I'll be tugging home soon, since the cab was stripped and needs a motor I figure why not just put a whole truck on it. Got to talk my buddy see what the issues with would be with DMV since he office deals with insurance and vehicle registrations.

 

I have a few 22re manifolds laying around. I'll send one to you.

 

Hello Gizzler00... I have been wondering if it is in the contacts in the stalk. I tried another stalk and it may have been bad contacts. I spent a few hours looking on the net on trying to find out if you could clean the contacts on it. I couldn't find anything on it. When I figure it out, I am going to save a fix for it. The green box is behind the computer and you have to work all of the wiring in behind all of that.

I have got swapping out the combo switch down to a science. I drive to the parts store and rent the tool to pull the wheel. Just have to have the horn cover off and the nut off and pop it right off. Then I install the nut tight enough to get to the house without the steering wheel coming off and it is just a few plugs and 4 screws. I probably do that blindfolded as I have done that so many times.

It really is in the body work as far as painting. That is the hardest part about getting the paint to look good. The other part I have problems with is getting the clear coat to lay down like glass. I haven't figured out how to do that each and every time. But it is easy enough to get smooth if it goes bad.

Hello junk4u... Them manifold on that 90s truck wont work for you. 88 and newer have the O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe down by the transfer case. Also the 88 and newer have a 4 wire O2 sensor. It will bolt up for you but getting the O2 sensor spot in the manifold or extending the wire down to the transfer case may be an issue.

The 87 and older have a single wire O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold. Actually the one I prefer. I have always been able to get the O2 out of the manifold where as on the 4 wire sensor, I have to take them to the exhaust shop and have them to install the bung for the new sensor. Also the 4 wire sensor I have had problems with and have seen it where a Check Engine Light is caused by the preheater on the 4 wire sensor has problems. You don't have that problem with the single wire sensor.

This truck did surprise me as it was a California Emissions truck that had an O2 sensor in it. I always thought that a carbed truck would not have one. It had a little computer or control box that must of operated the sensor. I don't see how it controlled anything but it did. Most carbed trucks I have seen that were not California Emissions trucks doesn't have a O2 sensor. In a carbed truck I think it was probably pointless as it has no control over the fuel side as far as I can see, but it made the California Emissions people happy seeing it on there I guess. I got to reuse the manifold and sensor that was already on it.

I can double check tomorrow but I think the Y pipe comes in two different lengths. I wonder if one is for a 2 wheel drive and one for a 4 wheel drive. I have both at the house if I recall right.

Are you talking about the pipes that connect to the manifold and circle behind the head on go over to the passenger side? If so I think that is the PAIR Emissions or something like that. I get a set of block off plates off out of the bone yard or you can get a set from LCE or Marlin Crawler and remove that easily. The plates are cheap even at Toyota if I recall that as well. I remove that PAIR system off of any truck I have owned. Got several laying in the shed.

Thanks cyberhorn... Bodywork and paint work is rewarding. Most trucks around are beat to death or in bad shape and then to have one that looks nice and even though you cant see the work that is involved, it does show some. I really like it when everything goes right and it looks like it was bought and sat in a garage for its entire life. There are a few flaws, I am not allowed to have a perfect job to be done for some reason.

I might have to break out the FSM and actually start troubleshooting it. Hope it has some good write ups on how to do that.

Seen you are going to have to get an amputation. Sorry to hear about that. Hope that goes as good as it can be for the situation at hand. Maybe they wont have to take much off and you can get as good as new again and wont have to deal with that healing problem again. I don't know if it is cost prohibitive, but there is a place in Kansas that supposedly deals in wounds that wont heal. I heard it on TV the other day and didn't catch where it was at. I will try to keep an eye out for that place again if I see it. I thinking it is somewhere between Witchita or south to the border.

My tooth still wont heal for me either. Still trying to get that worked out. Sometimes it breaks out with an infection that snakes need to be aware of me as I might have a venomous bite. This has been going on for 2 1/2 years and each time I get operated on it gets me more scared of needles and such. I am getting to be a wimp when it comes to pain as I get older.

 

I think I am down to just doing the roof top. That is one that will take some time as the roof will want to bow with very little pressure. I think I have everything else wet sanded and buffed out. I will go over it with some Swirl Remover and then add a coat of wax to it.

I did get the tail gate and it orange peeled a little more then the rest of the truck did but got it smoothed out so was happy with that. I have tried to find a chrome tail gate handle and even in the yards with a couple of SR5 trucks that had chrome on them the tail gate was black so this one is going to get a black tailgate handle. I have searched Toyota sites and now am sure they don't have them. The next generation did have and I can find them all day long.

Getting there.

 

Terry, thanks for the info. I guess I should have clarified what I'm going to be getting from that truck as far as exhaust manifold. The manifold looks to be a downey type exhaust and it's pretty rusty, but that's just at a glance. If I use it in any of my trucks, it may or may not improve the performance hey it's a 22re 4cyl very little can be done to add any more HP to it and would be noticeable. Hey it's free who can ask for it any cheaper.

Here's basically what it looks like as I scavenge to web to look for something similar.




These aren't my pics just borrowed from around the net, but it pretty much what it looks like. I've read that it can improve performance, but really is it going to be noticeable?

 

Terry, it's looking good. Great work on the paint. Looking to start painting mine before the end of the year. We been hit with rain and thunder these past few days. Not that our lawns didn't needed, I didn't particularly as the lawn loves it and grows out of control. Rain leads to grass growing which leads to cutting grass. Thunder leads power surges here in South Florida which means I have to head up again to Okeechobee ahead of schedule one of systems up there seems to have gone hey wire. Last week they got hit by lighting and took out a bunch of equipment, servers and computers at least this time it is only one system. Just saying rain keeps me busy and keeps me away from painting since it's too humid. So tomorrow on my tour through Okeechobee I'll see if I can take a true picture of that exhaust and motor.

 

I used to be in the electronics field and I remember having to fix a lot of equipment due to power issues. I did a lot of traveling in those days and actually enjoyed it.

I always thought that there wasn't much to gain from a 22re. I was up in St. Louis and helped HighLux put his transmission in and we took it for a drive. I drove it and could tell it had some power but I didn't drive it hard. He got in and showed me what it would do. That truck will RUNNN!!! He has the Engine builder head, I think the 268 cam and LCE header. Other then a turbo, it is the quickest 22re I have ever driven or ridden in. I really think his truck would give a turbo truck a run for its money. If you are after power, HighLux can give more correct information on what to do it. For a 4 banger it will really surprise you.

 

Terry thanks...

I'm not looking at more power, i just love the truck have since I bought my first one in 1986 till this day and forward. To that exhaust it just a perk it's free. Would i buy one the answer to that is not really, but free always gets my attention.

Collecting this stuff may also help on the restore of the Sunrader which is a complete restore from top to bottom.

 

Oh yeah one more thing is. the 22re are very noisy engines sure wish there was a way to rebuild the quieter. Cars today you cant even tell if they are running.

 

Hello junk4u... They are some noisey engines. I was at the parts store the other day and without looking I knew it was one pulling up behind me. It was a 94 two wheel drive. I use a mechanics stetescope to kind of get an idea which lifters are noisey and give them a little more attention when the valve cover is off.

I installed a header one time and I couldnt notice any difference with it installed. I dont care for headers. If the head has a bigger cam, I am sure it would help like HighLuxs truck is. Also headers have a ticking noise that I dont care for as well. Sounds like a wire is spinning it and hitting the exhaust pipe.

I use Nasson paint. There is alot more expensive paint out there but it does well for me. It is a cheaper brand of Dupont. I just do the base coat/clear coat. Acrlic enamel is cheaper but it is for the more experienced painters. It can do all sorts of wierd things. BC/CC is really nothing to be worried about. Practice on a fender and hood from the boneyard. I dont wear a mask when shooting primer, but when shooting paint, I do. Primer doesnt float and you usually are not spraying much at all. Dont mess around with paint, you can get a great mask for a really cheap price. Paint is nasty and about 2 minutes and it will have the shop so foggy, you all most cant see. I use fans to keep it pulled out of the shop as it will dry and settle and look like dust in your paint.

Post a picture of your Sunrader on here, I would like to see it.

 

I have been checking the FSM. I have checked everything except one thing and it is the circuit breaker. Circuit breaker, huhh???!!! Not sure where that is.

FSM says to check Switch (good, tested on my 85), Fuses (Checked), Heater Relay, (Checked on 85), Blower Motor ( Used Blower motor off of 85) and Blower Resistor (Checked on 85 and new).

^^^Applies to the Lower Blower Speeds.

This applies to the Wiper Delay functions.
I found the picture of the wiper delay box that had melted on the backside. These were a common item that the salvage yard sold alot of according to him.

 

Here is the FSM diagram of the Wiper Functions. Not sure why picture is sideways, I tried to fix it but might be easier to read.


Having a hard time understanding the wiring diagram so I am checking what I know that usually applies to electric contacts. These look a little dirty. I really don't think cleaning them will help as they are not in line with the Delay on the handle but what could it hurt.


Took a brass tooth brush to the contacts and got them a little cleaner.


The black cable on my pointer finger is what goes to the Delay Setting. The plug on my other finger has two yellow wires that come from the Delay Setting. There are a few other wires that run into the cable that comes from the Delay Setting. I will see if I can run some resistance checks on the harness and see what I come up with.


Other then the Wiring, Fuse, and Motor, I think this is the complete assembly needed for Wiper Delay action.


May not be able to see it, but just above my thumbnail is the pins numbers.

 

If I shut the wiper switch off with the wipers in the up position, it will still go down to the Stow position or laying down like they should like you would on a dry day.

If I shut them off in the up position, but the wiper switch is in the Delay Mode, they will still go to the normal stow position like they should but quite a bit slower. That tells me something is some what operating like they should.