RogueYota

Soooo...I knew everything was going to smooth!!! Tonight started decent...then got progressively worse...then ended in tools being shucked around and parts smashed on the floor.

Got the rear end lifted an inch using 1" blocks I had laying around. Which means my short shocks are now even shorter. In the process my rear driveshaft fell out.


Then I thought..."Hey ill get the brakes on and drive it!" Yeah nope.

This is where it went straight in the pooper. I tried to put the IFS calipers on....doesnt work. Then I put the SFA one on and realized the top bolt threads in the knuckle are non existent. I figured ill tighten the one and run it. So I do and the rotor wont turn. Not the bolt....not the pads...found out the caliper was pinching the rotor when tight. Anybody know why that would happen?? I then tried a dozen different things to know prevail. I gave up on that side then went to the other....then found out that caliper was ceased. I then proceeded to beat the caliper with a hammer over and over and over and over...then chuck the hammer...I then grabbed the caliper and threw it on the garage floor then threw it in the scrap pile! So now the truck sits in the garage in a giant mess because I walked out.

So im thinking ill buy new calipers. Hopefully that will help. But seriously does any know why the caliper would pinch the rotor??

Im rather heated.

JonnyBoy

Pinching the rotor how? Like it's already clamped down on the disc like the brakes are applied, or like the alignment of the rotor/caliper is off and it's just hitting the rotor on one side?

RogueYota

When I slide the caliper over then rotor...the front of it is already close to the rotor...then I tighten it and the rotor will not move and that tiny gap closes up. Even with no pads in...the IFS caliper worked other than it hitting the wheel and not fitting the rotor.

I was rolling the axle around fine....idk what happened...I really hope new calipers fixes it :/

JonnyBoy

Just not sure I know what you mean by the "front" of the caliper. Sorry, just not sure where the problem is exactly cause you're using a combo of parts I haven't seen before. I only have experience with the SA hubs/cruiser rotor/ifs caliper combo. Which side of the caliper mounting ears are you mounting the caliper? Outside like the people that use the SA/cruiser calipers without the Sky spacer?

RogueYota

The caliper is touching on the very outside face of the rotor. Look at the picture of the brakes I posted...the brake line looks like its pointing right where its hitting....on the face of the rotor.

I have them mounted on the outside of the ears....thats the only way they can go. Im using all SFA parts.

JonnyBoy

So ifs hub/SA rotors and calipers? I know some people have posted pics on Pirate showing they had to put a washer between the caliper and the ears using cruiser rotors and ifs calipers. Maybe that?

SCToy

I run Solid Axle hubs, FJ60 Rotors and IFS V6 calipers, it works great and you don't have to mess around with mounting brakes on the wrong side of the ears. If your brake ears on the knuckles are stripped you will need to fix that before you drive it. If you only have 1 bolt in the caliper if it's the leading bolt you can roll it around, but if its the trailing bolt, it will be moved out of axis and cam lock the wheel. That happened to me just trying to roll the truck forward a few feet in my driveway.
I would think that a helicoil in a brake ear is not a good idea. I think I would drill it out and tap it to the next size up. Drill the caliper as well to the appropriate size.
That or keep looking for another axle housing.

RogueYota

Its the top ear that is stripped..idk which one that is. Im running short on money to be doing this...Im so close idk what to do. For some reason I feel like getting new calipers isnt going to change the fact that it rubs the rotor.

And everything is SFA stuff.

JonnyBoy

Yeah, I don't think that new calipers would change the rub, either. I can't really picture any reason it would bind the way it is if everything is properly installed. I do think it'd be cheaper to get fj60 rotors and use your ifs calipers than to get new SA calipers, too. Also, I have 1 caliper mount hole mostly stripped out, too, and from what I've seen and searched, people have put helicoils in and had no problems at all. That said, I think I'm going to drill all mine out the next size and thread it new. Some people say the downside to that is you'll need to drill out the holes in new calipers, but I figure I'll just rebuild the ones I have instead.

SCToy

If its the top ear it won't camlock the wheel if you roll foward, but it can in reverse. I wouldn't drive on it like that anyways though.

What rotors are you using? Its solid axle calipers, rotors and wheel hubs?

If your wheel bearings are completely toast and you over torqued the spindle nut, it could pull the rotors too far inward. I would think you probably have the wrong rotors.
Are you rotors solid or vented?

I used ifs used ifs calipers with fj60 rotors and everything lined up perfectly,

RogueYota

Yeah I think ill just leave the top bolt in.....that way it cant move....just cant tighten it.

I talked to a buddy from back home and he gave me the idea of FJ40 rotors and my IFS calipers. You are all saying FJ60's. He says he's running the FJ40 setup. Is there a difference? I ordered a set today.

SCToy: How did your FJ rotors go on to the SFA...was there any fabricating to do?

As of right now everything is SFA. I have no clue if its ever been taken apart. But if I put FJ rotors on it ill have to take it all apart...so maybe ill find something wrong.

JonnyBoy

I've heard they are the same. When I did my big brakes on my 83 I ordered the rotors as 83 land cruiser application. They mount the exact same as the SA mini axle rotors, 6 stud pressed through and 2 bolts. Ordered the same for my sas axle.

SCToy

Yea, think i referenced 1986 landcruiser, which is an fj60 series i believe. I've never heard of an fj40 rotor swap. Mine required no fabrication at all, bolts up just like stock. You do have to trim back the backing plate for caliper clearance with ifs calipers.
Why not use your stock ifs calipers and the vented fj 60 rotors?

Are you current rotors on the truck vented or solid?
Helicoil is definitely going to be better than just leaving a bolt stuffed in there imo.

RogueYota

Thats strange because I havent heard anything about FJ60 ones lol I ordered 81 FJ40s. If they arent right ill order different ones.

Im planing on using my IFS calipers with the new rotors I am getting.

The stripped hole is perfectly smooth already..may just tap it.

So i went out there just about an hour ago and took apart one side....not the side that was locking though. I took the rotor off the hub to get ready for the new ones tomorrow. Everything went very smooth on that side so I came back inside for the night...didnt want it to go sour lol

This side has been taken apart. The nuts have marks from being hit. The bearings look and feel brand new and the spindle looks great. Hope the other side is all the same.





All the info I got on the FJ40 stuff was from Pirate...im not a member there (they are mean) but they have some really good info.

SCToy

Yea, I would definitely tap it. You can always drill it out to the next size up if necessary. There is a lot of metal around those holes on both the knuckle and the caliper.

Are they the original calipers to the axle, or did you bolt them up for the first time?

RogueYota

Im not sure if they are from factory....but they were on the axle when I picked it up.

I did a little research and I dont think theres a difference between FJ40 and FJ60 rotors. Ill just take one of my SFA rotors to match up holes. Thinking I might cut out the backing plate.

Does anyone know if you can run without the backing plate? Or do you need to cut it to make up the room?

SCToy

Pretty much all toyota rotors will bolt up, the 6 lug pattern is all the same. The main issue is the offset from the mounting surface. I would think the landcruiser rotors are the same but i never researched it.
Dunno how much the SA changed with each series.

RogueYota

I think the only reason that FJs will work with my IFS calipers is because its wider at the stopping surface due to them being vented which the IFS calipers are built for.

Im really REALLY hoping it all goes smooth tomorrow.

SCToy

Ps i think you do need the backing plate in the stack, i forget why, does it hold the felts or something? Anyways, you can cut everything from around it if you want, but you still need the bolt pattern in the stack of parts. At least that's what i'm remebering at the moment.

RogueYota

Yeah I think you're right...why else would they make eliminator kits if you wouldn't need it in the stack?