Awesome man I appreciated it, I just want to know also what is needed on the blocks and what isn't because I dont have a manual and dont know if this crap is for locks etc, you know how the mb's are luxury tanks

 

I took the 4runner off the road for the winter to redo the body and give the frame some attition. Im going to be down in York the weekend of Nov. 19th. If you want to make the trip i can walk you through all the things you are going to need and should do and you can take all the pics you want.

As far as the motor mounts i cant get any pics at the moment but i started by cutting 3" 3/8 flat steel to size and drilling the holes to mount them to the block and welding off that. DO NOT HARD MOUNT THE MOTOR!!!!! I did that with the trans and not a good idea. I would figure out a way to use the stock 22re bushings im using them with good results not much vibe at all.

 

That would be AWESOME! I'd totally meet up, what time or day? York would be a little haul but that would be fun man. My number is 207-751-6four28 -Josh

 

I've met Riddarunner to take a look at his swap, great guy, thanks again Ridda!

I've collected most of the parts for this swap, but have decided to hold off until spring as I use my truck to plow my driveway and really don't feel like shoveling a 400ft driveway this winter.

Here is a ton of info I've collected. Hope this helps somebody. Could use a little organization, but ask away and I'll try and help. One question I still have is recoring the radiator. Does anyone know if a radiator can be re-cored so that it is shorter? ie use the same upper and lower tanks, but shorten the core to fit in the available space? This way you could probably use the stock mercedes hoses as alignment should be pretty close.

__________________________________________________ __

swap info
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/forumd...by-4x4Labs.com

front main seal
Mount the three cup springs (washers) with the crown (raised dome) toward bolt head.
The harmonic balancer is secured to the crankshaft by a single 18mm X 45 mm bolt torqued to 270 - 330 Nm = 200-244 ft. lbs
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617CrankshaftSeal
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...tml#post735898


glow plugs
should measure between 5-10 ohms

relay wiring
http://mb.bolinko.org/15/index.php?o...gine&Itemid=75

30 (large red) +bat
31 (orange/brown) ground
15 (red-black stripe)start switch (I think can be ign, relay should time out)
50 (red/pink/purple) safety circuit (not needed to run)
LA (white-blue stripe) lamp indicator

"I have found the Benz glow relay to work great, not only does it have after glow, but it will tell you when one or more glow plugs is bad. when the indicator light blinks, one is bad, when it fails to light (but you can still hear the relay working) two or more are bad."



glow plug alternative
http://www.fourthgen.net/timerscartEPS.shtml

injector rebuild
bosio nozzles from Dieselgiant.com
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?opt...d=20&Itemid=28


oil cooler lines
Mcmaster
thread 22x1.5 face/compression seal

Coolant drain plug behind end of starter, turn steering wheel to right
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617BlockDrainPlug

egr delete
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...u-do-away.html

Garret turbo rebuild kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Garrett-T3-T...item3f0ecea657

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Rebuil...35580089394816

recore stock Mercedes to make it shorter?
Jeggs radiator 52010 16.5x28x? $160 for
Be cool radiator, 35010 $213 similar dimensions
Procomp 26241 27.5x16 $186
clutch: http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...ch-kit-1200-lbsaab alternator Bosch AL129X http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...threadid=93569
alternator wiring http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...s-123s-11.html
toyota alternator wiring
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...wiring-147322/

shut off valve
pn W0133-1624834 amazon $16
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...um-switch.html

body lift 2" http://www.davezoffroadperformance.c...lift-kits.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
glowplug wiring http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?opt...d=30&Itemid=28
sensors: toyota wiring oil pressure switch is Y-L (which is yellow-blue :shrug: )
water is Y-G
oil pressure thread- toyota is npt 10x1.0, MB is 12x1.25 not sure if pipe thread, think needs crush washer

adapters
http://fittingsandadapters.com/

Oil pressure sender from toyota tapped into banjo bolt of turbo feed line

TACHOMETER
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...128/prd128.htm
needs "w" wire on alternator
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...sel-31515.html
contact 4rnr33 here http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/...hometer?page=2


toyota gage is adjustable, has screw in back of cluster can calibrate
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...d.php?t=172174
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...n-help-231646/
output from om617
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...-tach-amp.html
the benz tach works off a reank sensor on the fron t of the motor with black and white wires and used a tach amp om the driver fender behind the mb glow relay.



GAUGE POD
http://www.gaugepods.com/toyota.html $70
http://www.truckpillars.com/page0/page0.html $80 including shipping
UNDER HEAD UNIT!
http://www.gadgetonline.com/Gauges.htm

Amazing motor info and maintanence
http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedes_...nance_tips.htm

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov98/techtips.htm

IP timing
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming


MORE GOOD ENGINE TIMING INFO ON PAGE 2
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ercedes&page=2

PARTS
http://mercedessource.com/taxonomy/term/22%2C51?page=1

volvo radiator, some sensor adapters, radiator in bed option
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...z-OM617-diesel

Another swapper
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/...kup-OM617-swap

TURBO REBUILD
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ing-turbo.html

non mercedes turbo rebuild, but good
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=2327793

Lots of good info including turbo rebuild
http://www2.peachparts.com/shopforum...ml#post1084383

Engine info
http://mercedessource.com/forums/ben...e-specific-aid
smoking
https://mercedessource.com/node/8559

1"BODY LIFT
http://www.wabfab.org/component/opti...e,shop.browse/

MOTOR MOUNTS
http://www.trail-gear.com/bomb-proof-motor-mount-kit

 

JayKray - Wow thats a lot of good info thanks for sharing. I temped a lot of my stuff under the hood to get up and going so i will use a lot of that info this winter to clean up my install. as far as the radiator I would just order one from summit I got mine for about 170 and its way over kill. When im out wheeling the truck runs at about 170* with a crappy little fan from pepboys.

you are not going to want to use the bomb proof motor mounts its going to be too stiff get as much rubber in there as possable

 

Ridda,
Yeah, I know other radiators will work fine, I'm just trying to use parts I already have from the donor if possible. Not sure how cost effective recorring would be, but I want to find out. I'm also going to do my best to get the stock toyota hood latch back in place and keep everything as stock looking as possible from the outside.

Do you think your motor is mounted so that the front of the tranny is at its stock height? Do you think a 1 inch body lift would be enough to allow the hood to clear the valve cover? That would also give me more height for the rad.

Man, I'm itching to do this swap, anybody have a spare plow truck I can use for the winter?

 

Yeah I would like to rework my hood to use the stock hood latch. I believe that my trans is at the stock hight or might be a little lower not really sure the shifters look the same hight.

Hard telling what you need to do about your body lift because you are keeping the IFS.

 

Awesome Info, Ridda would you still be up for meeting up? I gotta take a day off.

 

All these OM617 swaps. I love it! (Subscribed)

 

Great work on the swap!

Quick sidebar question...are you just running chevies in the back or is there something else giving you that lift? I have a pair in the garage waiting to go on, and a 4" bracket lift up front (currently the rears are ZUK'd), so I'm curious what you're running in the back, since you seem to have a LOT of lift there

 

I have 5" trail gear springs out back they were really tall when i put them in. Ive been on a few trail rides since then and they have settled about 6" much nicer now. Been thinking about chevies for the new runner

 

Your thread has convinced me to diesel swap my 4Runner instead of replacing my 22re. Looking at the kit, do you think it was worth the $600? In some of the other threads the guys made their own, I think I'm going to pursue that path.
Also, if you ever want to sell your tires feel free to pm me! 33x10.50's are getting tough to find!

PS- Happy Turkey Day yota friends!

 

If your looking at a VW Diesel 1.9 L TDI, my Jetta has 310,000 miles on it. and gets 47 mpg. With the runner you may get 35-40

 

Hey! i'm driving my 86 4runner back to vermont this winter. I live in Bakersfield and there are some great trails to offroad on.

 

Literally one of the best rides around! Nice job riddarunner

 

Sorry its been a while since ive been on here. well let me know when you get a trail ride going, im going to be driving the diesel runner soon.

Thank you its been a lot of hard work 5 years in the planning and about a year in doing the motor swap a little at a time. So I bought a "beater winter truck" and it turned into a full on build because nothing on it was right and im still working on it. 87' IFS 4runner 22re 5spd loaded I mean loaded! this thing has options that my 05' taco didnt have. but the front suspension was beat and shot so SAS with parts i had laying around. rear braked were toast and i had no intrest in fixing the semi float. So i installed a Full Float kit from front range off road. Tires were show so a new set of Goodyear MTRs went on. had sloders laying around thoses went on. had a sky front bumper from a 90's truck that fit nice and the xrc8 winch. 4.10 rear and 4.30 front so new set of 5.29 and i think thats where im at with the truck. heres a pic of it now.

 

As for the diesel its been off the road for the winter with the intetion of repairing the body work but the "winter rig" took all winter to fix so now im behind the 8 ball trying to get it all done. I have finished the sheet metal work on the driver side and have moved onto other side. Im opening up the bode to remove usless rotting brackets, fixing the inner rocker then the outer then the wheel wells. im slicing the inner wheel well pushing it up to the new cut mark (about 3" out from the stock line) and welding it up. Im then going to fiber glass the inside then bondo Glass the outside to make it smooth then bed liner over that. haha i forgot to mention i ahve already done this on the "winter rig" because it also had rot around the WW. so were are the pics of the diesel.

 

Holy rust repair! Lookin good!

 

wow looks like mine 4runner, nice to see how you fix it, so a can learn...........

 

Yeah its a little over whelming at first but i just did it to the gas about two months ago so its not as bad this time and moving a little faster.

Second time around its not that bad and FYI that a 37" tire no problem stuffing that now.

Now that i think about it i dont think ive posted a pic with the new tires and rims. I ended up ordering a set of 6 lug 16.5 wheels and a set of miltary take offs.



but now it wants to fall on its face at take off and i noticed a little power loss on the hwy. So i picked up a turbo transmission off foxfab and im going to try that with a set of 4.30 gears