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RBx 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread

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Old 06-11-2015, 03:58 AM
  #1861  
RBX
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Man you get up early, or go to bed late!



That is a 3VZ Caramel Latte Frap with 1/2 skim petroleum 1/2 silt, well thats what the barista told me.

I think the goo has a good amount of moisture in it, I am letting it sit a few days to see if it separates.

So, if you want to keep your intake clean, and oil mist from mucking up injectors, air-flow sensors and valve seats especially, install an oil catch-can. Just remember to drain it every oil change.

Last edited by RBX; 11-23-2015 at 10:38 AM.
Old 06-11-2015, 06:40 AM
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awesome. btw- your pictures are down:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52217143
Old 06-11-2015, 06:52 AM
  #1863  
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^^^, they have been. I am in the process of moving all my images to another host.

thanks
Old 06-11-2015, 07:26 AM
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I like the sludge...

looking forward to pictures of the catch can install
Old 06-11-2015, 11:21 AM
  #1865  
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Originally Posted by RBX
Installed a catch can this weekend, using a Craftsman inline air filter for a compressor PN:16009. I ran out of hose so I had to use some air compressor hose(orange) i had laying around. The catch can runs from the PCV to the drivers valve cover into the can then clean air is sent to the manifold.
I hate the fact that the auto industry thinks its totally fine to feed oil vapor into the intake manifold, often before the throttle body, creating a total mess of things that should never see any oil.






fixed the images, still many more projects and pages to go.
Old 06-23-2015, 03:41 AM
  #1866  
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SFA Short Axle shaft will not seat

Anyone have this problem, how did you solve it?

I am replacing my stock axle shafts with TrailMarts 27-Spline, and I cannot get the passenger side to go into the carrier.

Last June I broke the passenger side stock birf in some rocks, and the field swap with a spare went easy.

Now I have gotten the driverside out and in with ease, but the passenger side will not slide in.

Any suggestions? I'm at a loss on what to do.
Old 06-24-2015, 06:30 PM
  #1867  
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Solved!
Had to file the end of the splines (chamfer) a good bit to closer resemble the stockers. The TrailMart ends are very blunt and will hang up on the locker collar. I have read this is less of an issue in the non-locked diffs.
Old 07-24-2015, 05:37 AM
  #1868  
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I saw a dope red 1st gen the other day in Perry Hall... I yelled at the dude while I was riding my bicycle back from the gym... I don't think its you though, unless you remember getting yelled at "HEY AWESOME TRUCK BROTHA!!" by a dude on a bike in perry hall specifically Honeygo and RTE 1. I've seen only a handful of yotas... I did see two nice expedition style tacos towing camping trailers last weekend up in perry hall.
Old 07-24-2015, 06:10 AM
  #1869  
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Nope, not me.
was at Rausch last weekend, and saw a 1st gen 4Runner, linked and soft top in red, similar to mine but not sure where it was tagged. Dude, rolled onto the trail with his group before i could get a chat.
There is another red 1st gen that frequently visits my neighbor, its very stock and I don't know where he lives.
Old 09-18-2015, 12:14 PM
  #1870  
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Warn MX10000

Finally got all my parts to mount my old Mx10000 I rebuilt.
125' of 1/2" Synthetic
Albright Contactor
Rock guard 15'
Viking Safety thimble and grommet
Custom Splice Fairlead
Totally removable from bumper without tools(twin hitchpins)



Made a cover for the rope to protect it from UV rays.
Old 11-13-2015, 06:37 AM
  #1871  
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Today I finished updating my build thread...fixed all the broken image links...enjoy.
Old 11-13-2015, 05:27 PM
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Are you still in Bmore? I recently bought a 89 SR5 from a guy on the eastern shore for 900 bucks. It's pretty rough right now, I still need to get it back to my house so I can start working on it over the winter. It would be nice to have someone so knowledgeable about 1st gens so close.
Old 11-14-2015, 05:20 AM
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Matt.... we're both in BMore. Well I'm up in Perry Hall - soon to move to Havre de Grace, but here. RB hooked it up last weekend, I didn't get a chance to really check out his rig, but he helped me out. Knowledgeable and cool as hell.
Old 11-14-2015, 05:59 AM
  #1874  
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Awe shucks...
Yep I'm in Bodymore. Hit me up anytime.
Old 11-15-2015, 02:42 PM
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Merlin was right...
Stoic - 14.7 This is when gasoline and oxygen burn most completely (ideal)

Last edited by paynemw; 11-16-2015 at 04:29 AM.
Old 11-15-2015, 03:08 PM
  #1876  
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Merlin.....yes. Get an AFR gauge before you do the afm mods. Takes the guess work out of it plus it helps you diagnose other issues. Many guys are way to eager to tamper with the sensors without having the proper tool.
Old 11-19-2015, 06:23 AM
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So which one of you is selling the Ball joint lift and bumpers on CL? I'm tempted to buy the lift but I also think I may go all in and do a Blazeland Kit right from the start.
Old 11-19-2015, 07:52 AM
  #1878  
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Not I.
Old 11-19-2015, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by matmattmatthew
So which one of you is selling the Ball joint lift and bumpers on CL? I'm tempted to buy the lift but I also think I may go all in and do a Blazeland Kit right from the start.
Matt - you should start a build thread so we can provide you guidance over there. I should have listened to people giving advice during my first build... get the truck running and reliable, then start with the mods later. You will find that you will never get the truck running to use those mods until you work out all of the bugs. For example... I won't do my LT kit because I still haven't installed my front gears... so I can't even go into 4x4.... Prioritize your needs then once you've finished those... then tackle those wants (Blazeland LT).
Old 01-12-2016, 09:13 AM
  #1880  
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Little update...
While I wait for the engine swap, I am building an Arduino to monitor engine information the OBD2/ECU doesn't monitor or display. There are programs that plug into the OBD2 port like Torq, but I need more information...like boost psi and EGT. Here is the list and a couple of pics of the test setup. So far I only have 5 temperature sensors running, and I hope to clean up the font and display to be easier to read while driving.
What you see here is a cheap 7" TFT monitor with and RCA connected to a TVout Video Experimenter(video shield) and an Arduino Uno(clone). The temperature sensors are DS18B20, I'm using the OneWire sketch to capture the data based on the sensors address. Still need to add Boost pressure, Oil pressure Pyrometer, Air Fuel Ratio, RPM with shiftlight an dfan trigger for intercooler.





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