ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Delicious! Can't freak'n wait! Great job bud.... Great job.

RBX

Thanks guys, while it might look nice I haven't driven her yet, that will determine if I put it together correctly.

Redeth005

It came out alright I guess...

Lol jk. Great job man. I like how you used coilovers instead of leaf springs.

kornhuskerwizard

If ya dont mind me asking how much do you have in the front suspension??

RBX

Thanks Red.

I haven't totaled it up, honestly don't want to know how much. But the suspension kit was $750 and coilovers were $800ish Iirc. The axle $200, the only thing not new on the front end is the birfield and inner shafts. Keep in mind this was an SAS so there were lots of things I had to do that a normal leaf sprung conversion would have already done... Relocate the steering box, add histeer, axle rebuild, regear shock hoops....
Axle is pushed forward 3" wheelbase is now 106", probably gonna move the rear back 4" when I link it.... Down the road, I'll need to relocate the gas tank.

kornhuskerwizard

Atleast you know how to work on your own stuff to save $$$ on labor. That things gonna look sick 4 linked in the rear.

RBX

I wouldn't say I 'know' but I do enjoy learning. Shop was going to charge me $2200 for labor to do the SAS. That's 20hrs. But there were a bunch of variables with ancillaries like a/c lines, P/s lines, aux battery lines, max uptravel....

kornhuskerwizard

Theres no way id pay someone $2200 to do a sas. I guess ive done enough research on it, it seems doable as long as you have the parts and tools to do it. I could buy alota parts with $2200!!

RBX

Yes $2200 goes a long way, not to mention the 'I did it' factor.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

I hadn't heard of 4wheelunderground until reading through your thread, I was checking out their site last night and was really impressed with their quality and craftsmanship of the 3 and 4 link kits! You can really tell that they spent a lot of time designing and developing their kits. I've been planning to re-do my rear suspension, since I did my SAS. I'm pretty happy with the front, was planning to just do a TG 5" (leaf spring) kit in the rear to replace my stock leafs and Zuk mod, but after looking at 4WU site you got me thinking of 4 linking it now, lol.

kornhuskerwizard

Theres a guy from lincoln that has a 87 extra cab with a 4.3chevy and he has it sas'd 4 linked and coilovers all the way around and drove it 60mi at average speed of 65mph and dominated the heap crowd here. Great to see.

RBX

Geometry is everything with a proper link setup. There is a good thread over on pirate discussing setup and geometry. I bought the 4WU kit from someone that didn't install it so I got a killer deal. That said, it's the only 3link front end I wanted. The reviews and craftsmanship, not to mention customer service should set the standard by which others should be measured. The geometry gives it great road manners as well as crawling. Just remember 'flat links'. Look at all the KOH cars with SFAs, they do high speed and crawling, those links are flat. I think the pros might know what they are doing.

RBX

crappy weather here, so i moved the shackle bolts from the stock location to the 5" extended hole. giving me about 1" of lift. small improvement.
Before, stock shackle length on Old Man Emu CS009R leafs


After with 5" shackle on OME leafs:

ToyoTech559

wow its looking good. cant wait too see that thing all flex out. gonna be sweet. love it.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Looks good, 1" of lift made a big difference in the stance!

RBX

I thinking of adding a 1" shim to pitch the diff angle a bit and help with stance. The front should relax by about 3/4"

kornhuskerwizard

Lookin bada$$!!! Love those tires and wheels

RBX

So before, and I mean minutes, the 10" of snow fell Tuesday morning, I was able to install the Full Float rear axle I'd been working on. The Trail-Gear inner axle shafts part#: 140309-1 (these are +5" rock assault shafts 32.5" only need long side x2) I used still needed about an 1/8" removed from the diff side in-order to seat correctly.(no pics).
Due to the size of the shaft and spline depth of the Dirty-30s, i simply tapped the end of the inner axle shaft with a large washer to keep the shaft from sliding into the diff past the splines(much like the IFS front CVs are secured under the hub dial). This method is replacing the c-clip one would normally use.

I had both old and new FJ drive flanges. I opted for the newer deeper flange for more spline engagement and not having to re-cut a c-clip groove to fit the older thinner flange as I originally planned. This method would have worked also, but cutting a perfect c-clip groove was going to be more time consuming then tapping a bolt hole.


I also installed some 6° shims I had made to correct the pinion angle, this also raised the rear about an inch, leveling the truck better.



Currently, my area is seeing single digit temperatures(unusually cold this year) and that has halted most work to get the rig on the road.

Need to...
Bleed brakes
add stabilizer clamp
Square up front end suspension
Align

Drive and shakedown

In hind sight I would have mounted the RuffStuff axle flanges outboard another 1/4" so I could use of the shelf parts and not have to modify them. However, cutting the end and tapping the center took no time at all.

rattlewagon

Nice work on the full floater!

RBX

Thanks, it had actually been 99% finished till Friday when I got the axle shafts delivered.