RBx 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#1322
Registered User
Thread Starter
Diesel swap....
been waiting for my Importer to get back to me...then the hurricane fouled things up.
Diesel Hilux at SEMA
http://www.expeditionportal.com/vehi...x-arrives.html
been waiting for my Importer to get back to me...then the hurricane fouled things up.
Diesel Hilux at SEMA
http://www.expeditionportal.com/vehi...x-arrives.html
#1326
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks guys,
I put the Hardtop back on the Sunday before Sandy hit us. I keep it in my backyard, and didn't want a large limb falling on it, plus its getting cold here.
I put the Hardtop back on the Sunday before Sandy hit us. I keep it in my backyard, and didn't want a large limb falling on it, plus its getting cold here.
#1327
Registered User
Thread Starter
PCB Dome Light Timer/Dimmer
While i wait for call backs from importers, i am going to build a dome light dimmer/timmer. This will keep the light on when you shut the door for a few seconds and then dim or turn off when the vehicle starts(like all new cars have). I hate the fact that the light turns off as soon as you shut the door, so i think i am going to change that.
step one:
Prototype a PCB. If this is successful i may have a few to sell if anyone is interested.
designed it with AutoCAD, stole the schematic idea from another site
step one:
Prototype a PCB. If this is successful i may have a few to sell if anyone is interested.
designed it with AutoCAD, stole the schematic idea from another site
Last edited by RBX; 02-21-2015 at 07:15 AM.
#1328
Registered User
Sounds cool! Would you be selling this as a kit or as a finished module?
Also any reason why this wouldn't work with an LED replacement dome light? I've been thinking of doing that mod since the stock one isn't very bright.
Also any reason why this wouldn't work with an LED replacement dome light? I've been thinking of doing that mod since the stock one isn't very bright.
#1329
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Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
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Awesome work on the PCB!
Chuntr - you can replace your 1st gen 4runner door lights and dome light with a 30mm festoon bulb from superbrightleds.com - I just did mine recently, and it's a world of difference. Also just replaced the type 74 bulb behind my HVAC controls and it's clear as day now. Very nice, cheap upgrade (granted, it all shuts down when a door is closed, but...)
Chuntr - you can replace your 1st gen 4runner door lights and dome light with a 30mm festoon bulb from superbrightleds.com - I just did mine recently, and it's a world of difference. Also just replaced the type 74 bulb behind my HVAC controls and it's clear as day now. Very nice, cheap upgrade (granted, it all shuts down when a door is closed, but...)
#1330
Registered User
Awesome work on the PCB!
Chuntr - you can replace your 1st gen 4runner door lights and dome light with a 30mm festoon bulb from superbrightleds.com - I just did mine recently, and it's a world of difference. Also just replaced the type 74 bulb behind my HVAC controls and it's clear as day now. Very nice, cheap upgrade (granted, it all shuts down when a door is closed, but...)
Chuntr - you can replace your 1st gen 4runner door lights and dome light with a 30mm festoon bulb from superbrightleds.com - I just did mine recently, and it's a world of difference. Also just replaced the type 74 bulb behind my HVAC controls and it's clear as day now. Very nice, cheap upgrade (granted, it all shuts down when a door is closed, but...)
Speaking of the HVAC lights, is there any way to replace those without tearing the entire dashboard and console apart? I got the top cover off but still couldn't see how to get at them.
#1331
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Chuntr - not sure how deep you got in the HVAC control panel but it's really easy to get to the light:
1) Take off the 4 control knobs - the pull straight out
2) remove the black panel with the control labels. Mine is SR5 with the clock on the right side...it's as simple as grabbing the left edge of the bezel around the clock with your finger, at which point you'll see the entire bezel/cover start to flex out toward you...then, gently pry the right side of the bezel by the clock and pry until it pops out. There is a tab on the right side and as you pull/bend the bezel, it will pop out - just go slow.
3) behind the bezel is a clear, skinny piece - this covers the bulb and distributes the light along the width of the controls. there is a "vane" or tab on this that you simply pull toward you and it will come out...again, be gentle.
Once you get it you'll be like "doh!" Just go slow and don't force anything.
1) Take off the 4 control knobs - the pull straight out
2) remove the black panel with the control labels. Mine is SR5 with the clock on the right side...it's as simple as grabbing the left edge of the bezel around the clock with your finger, at which point you'll see the entire bezel/cover start to flex out toward you...then, gently pry the right side of the bezel by the clock and pry until it pops out. There is a tab on the right side and as you pull/bend the bezel, it will pop out - just go slow.
3) behind the bezel is a clear, skinny piece - this covers the bulb and distributes the light along the width of the controls. there is a "vane" or tab on this that you simply pull toward you and it will come out...again, be gentle.
Once you get it you'll be like "doh!" Just go slow and don't force anything.
#1333
Registered User
Thread Starter
If i can pull it off, the module will be offered as a complete product, but the user will need to splice the kit into the system.
I have LEDs in the domes, so this circuit will need to work with those.
For any one looking to put LED dome lights in , do not get the 'Cool White' unless you like the blue skin fluorescent look(like being under old cheap fluorescents). The warm whites are much nicer and natural on the skin.
I have LEDs in the domes, so this circuit will need to work with those.
For any one looking to put LED dome lights in , do not get the 'Cool White' unless you like the blue skin fluorescent look(like being under old cheap fluorescents). The warm whites are much nicer and natural on the skin.
#1334
Registered User
Thread Starter
PCB for Dimming Dome Light
step 1:
exposing the image on the photo resist board
Step 2:
Develop the image 10 parts water to 1 part develpoer takes about 5-6 minutes
Step 3:
Rinse in cold water
Step 4:
Etch with Ferric Chloride for about 10minutes or until all copper is removed
Step 5:
rinse in cold water
I wipe the remaining photo resist off with Acetone and then Denatured Alcohol, drill the holes then spread some flux and solder components. You can use Liquid Tin to keep the copper from oxidizing, but its expensive so i just brush some dielectric grease on.
(Warning, do not leave flux on a copper board if you don't plan on soldering immediately...corrosion will follow from the adherence of the flux)
More to come...
exposing the image on the photo resist board
Step 2:
Develop the image 10 parts water to 1 part develpoer takes about 5-6 minutes
Step 3:
Rinse in cold water
Step 4:
Etch with Ferric Chloride for about 10minutes or until all copper is removed
Step 5:
rinse in cold water
I wipe the remaining photo resist off with Acetone and then Denatured Alcohol, drill the holes then spread some flux and solder components. You can use Liquid Tin to keep the copper from oxidizing, but its expensive so i just brush some dielectric grease on.
(Warning, do not leave flux on a copper board if you don't plan on soldering immediately...corrosion will follow from the adherence of the flux)
More to come...
Last edited by RBX; 02-21-2015 at 07:25 AM.
#1336
Registered User
Thread Starter
Spring ToDo List
Wow, I have been doing nothing!!
ToDo before Spring:
-Rear eLocker Install(may just build a new Full Float axle since housings are so cheap)
-Weld Up Jerry Can for rear(got the steel cut)
-Front Winch Bumper(need to finish the drawings, get steel cut & pick up my new to me m10000)
-Rear Caliper swap with Park-Brake (found some Supra Calipers)
-Finalize Rock Slider Design and Install(already have the steal)
-get a damn diesel ordered already!!!!!
-----Get my Son's 89 Runner to the house for build up-----
I'll be updating my build thread shortly with more picks and progress on the above mentioned.
ToDo before Spring:
-Rear eLocker Install(may just build a new Full Float axle since housings are so cheap)
-Weld Up Jerry Can for rear(got the steel cut)
-Front Winch Bumper(need to finish the drawings, get steel cut & pick up my new to me m10000)
-Rear Caliper swap with Park-Brake (found some Supra Calipers)
-Finalize Rock Slider Design and Install(already have the steal)
-get a damn diesel ordered already!!!!!
-----Get my Son's 89 Runner to the house for build up-----
I'll be updating my build thread shortly with more picks and progress on the above mentioned.
#1338
Registered User
Thread Starter
haha, yes little b has a Runner...
Well, we bought it last October, IIRC, because of his stellar grades(and it was a killer price).
His member name is Erock89, but he has not posted yet.
So yes he has a Runner, but it is being stored at my brothers house, need to get it to my house so we can get it roadworthy, and modify... modify....modify.
Well, we bought it last October, IIRC, because of his stellar grades(and it was a killer price).
His member name is Erock89, but he has not posted yet.
So yes he has a Runner, but it is being stored at my brothers house, need to get it to my house so we can get it roadworthy, and modify... modify....modify.