yotarob2005

Not exactly, I am missing the wiring near the center console / shifter area that the switch plugs into. I have the wiring that runs back down the drivers side cab of the truck, but it has a few quick splices and a couple of broken wires. No telling what has been done to it in the past. Truck didn't even have a tail gate when I got it, so I had to find another one and there are butt connectors and loose wires in the tail gate also. I have pretty much decided that re-wiring the whole thing would be the easiest thing to do. I have read 4crawlers page, but I need to go back and re-read it I guess. I ohmed out my factory switch and had though that it was switching 12 volts, not ground. I am pretty sure there are only 2 wires coming off of the window motor and I was planning on running 2 hot wires back there. Thanks for the offer, I'll send you a PM in the next day or so once i get some things figured out, sorry to jack your thread.

88toyblackjack

RBX, dont forget about the rear winshield position switch. That SOB drove me nuts trying to get my window to go up and down

RBX

^^^, Right..Thanks, i did forget about that. I'm still pissed cuz my courtesy light mod is grounding (staying on) all of a sudden, and i have traced the wires best i can in the tailgate. At least i know it's in the tailgate.

In other news, I am thinking about putting a 2" body lift on her so i can raise the drive-train & gas tank(flat belly). This will also provide bit more room under the hood for the 1UZ.
I'd like to build a bumper based on the Trail Gear winch mount. My question is:
With a BL are you stuck with the stock bumper bolt locations for mounting? In other words, i wouldn't want to extend/modify the winch mount up 2"(like the Body lift) to get more snug with the grill due to the structural integrity of the mounting points at the reinforced area of the frame...or is there some other brackets that could be welded to the frame....anyone?

yotarob2005

I have been doing lots of reading up on drive train lifts and posted all of my info here.

See post #748
http://tacomaoffroad.com/threads/6-Y...r-build/page38

I'm sure with a little cutting and welding that you could modify the bumper or the mounts to make it fit with a body lift. Some vendors will make them for your application.

RBX

Thx Rob, i have been reading about the BL, and winch mount, a few folks say it creates a weaker mounting point when you raise the winch mount away from the factory bumper mounts, that makes sense to me, i just need to research a bit more i guess before i order the TG winch mount.

RBX

Well tonight i put the new OEM cap, rotor, wires(FSM calls them chords?) and still same exact issue....[insert angry screaming cussing smiley icon!!!]
Turn the key and she fires up like a new truck should, and i mean she springs to life, revs to 1500rpm, then dies.
Could this be an ignitor issue? I can feather the throttle, and get her to hold at any rpm above 1000.
I really want to do the timing belt and hoses soon, but i want her to be running strong first.
I know my timing is off a bit, because of not having a timing cover.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

ARGH!!!!!!

thanks

irab88

iTrader: (4)

did you go through the standard list (vacuum leak, air intake leak, afm disconnected, etc)?

Z's Confederate Toy

If ya think its a leak, the best way to tell is to spray some carb cleaner around the areas in question. If the engine revs, there is a leak. Its a good idea just to check. Also check all elec. plugs on the intake and what not. I had a similar problem with my buddies truck. Twas a sensor plug that was disconnected.

RBX

Yes, i have double checked my vacuum lines and the afm has tested within spec

The problem is that i can't keep her running to try this technique, but perhaps I'll have my son hold the throttle tonight while i try that.
Everything seems to be plugged in, but have found some connectors that have a pin pushed out, but a t first glance it looks like the plugged is connected.

thanks guys

Z's Confederate Toy

No problem, kinda can't wait to see what the cause is. It almost sounds like seemingly simple causing it.

mfwimg82

there are 3 vacuum lines coming off of little pipes on pass side of intake that go to vac. switches these line feed egr and fuel regulator if not correct will run just like you are saying. There should be a diagram for lines under hood ,blow smoke through lines to see that they are in right position. These lines are put on wrong often when intake is removed

RBX

^^^ thanks I'll double check them, but I did correct those three lines already because I put them on wrong.
I can get her warmed up by feathering the throttle, then I get CEL and code 31. Check Engine Light is intermittent.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

did you try using loctite on the spark plugs? i heard that it helps with the helicoil inserts

RBX

^^^ haha, yes i pulled them all out and loctited the plugs in so they won't come out ever again.
you're such a good helper!

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

YES! haha

I just wanna say thanks again RB, i made it home okay, there was some snow when i drove through Princeton but it wasn't too bad, i got home at 2am

RBX

glad it was a safe trip.
I can still hear you wincing like a little girl while i was running the plug tap!!
Next time we have a wrenching day we need a large heated garage or warm weather.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

agreed. spring is coming up, and i intend to save up for some new stuff

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

Warm weather!!

Same

richf

RBX what is your opinion on one 6" sub and a small amp? What do you run in your truck?

RBX

Haha, I have 2 6"s and an amp.... But I have no radio! Other stuff on the truck has been priority.
Sorry I can't give any opinion yet.