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RBx 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread

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Old 05-29-2012, 07:00 AM
  #1161  
RBX
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I did sea foam in the tank.
I'll get my stethoscope out tonight.
Old 05-29-2012, 09:57 AM
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with a header, you can simply put your hand on the pipes RIGHT as you start it up and see which one isn't getting warm..... With stock ex. mani's.... hmmmm, not sure how quickly radiant heat would confuse the matter, you know? I could literally grab my #2 Runner on my Header while the other two were already 500*F or so, lol. OK< not GRAB, but touch it momentarily... It was CLEARLY not firing.... Identified spark there, ... VOILA, "Houston, we've got a GOGO-JUICE problem!", lol. did a noid test on the connector.... LIT UP LIKE CHRISTMAS.... Joined it with the injector? NOTHING. Listened with the stethoscope? NOTHING..... 10 minutes after fully assembling that FIRST MACHINISTS cruel joke to me, .........I had to tear it down again.

What happened was simple; While putting back together with new filter, cleaning everything, I thought I'd be fne.... NOPE... Something came dislodged from the line after the filter/or in the rail and wound up RIGHT IN #2 INJECTOR! lol.... I took them back down to RC Injectors, Torrance, CA, and they brought me back and showed me as they charged it with a simultaneous 'TAP'.... FFROOOOOOOSH, flowing free again. It was a big blob of stuff, like a piece of grill drippings/w/carbon! lol.

I'm NO VeeZee man..... barely a 'studier therein'.... But COMBUSTION IS COMBUSTION.... You DOUBTFULLY lost spark, right? You didn't suddenly lose compression? GOTTA be fuel, but since it ISSSSSSS running, .... sounds more likely "specific to one cylinder".....

You know what though? VAFM CANNNNN cause CRAZY symptoms... If you have a BAD dead spot across the sweep, it could EASILY seem like "It's idling FINE", ...then the second you engage that portion, 'PUT-PUPUPUPUT-PUT-PUT-PUPUPUPUP'

You'll find it, QUICK, man! And Ian is right... if you can, listen to those injectors... I don't remember them being so accessible, but I'm SURE you'll tell us that, soon here! lol.
Old 05-29-2012, 10:07 AM
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mark- you're awesome. i completely forgot about the "touch the exhaust" trick.
rb- that's probably the easiest test you can do.
Old 05-29-2012, 10:38 AM
  #1164  
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Thanks guys i'll try the exhaust manifold fondling first.
I tried to pick up a VAFM at lunch today, called the shop they said they had one for 50$...sweet. Get there, the monkey behind the counter gives me what appears to be a small watercraft anchor by the looks of the corrosion and the flapper is seized shut. Next time i will ask if the one they have works!
So yes, the VAFM will be replaced pronto, and i will try to tackle the illusive missing cylinder tonight.
In other news i need to finish my CB install, and tune my antenna. RC is less then a month.
Old 05-29-2012, 10:45 AM
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gah! thanks for reminding me that i need new tires...

you got an swr meter? i got one if you need it. in any case, we need another build-day before rc.
Old 05-29-2012, 10:59 AM
  #1166  
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Yes we do....let me check with my handler to see what we have avalable.
yes, i have an SWR meter, but i need to get a shorty chord for it to be able to tune.
Old 05-29-2012, 11:24 AM
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Hey RB, .... I must have missed(?) if you KNOW you have spark.... CONSTANT spark(And if you did the ''pull one plug WIRE at a time'' trick???)I'm sure that's FAR more difficult on the VeeZee, lol... Sorry, just an idea? lol. But yeah... I HAVE DEFINITELY seen plug wires take a dive with even the gentlest of 'fondling' as you put it? lol. Sometimes it's a simple as a filament in there coming loose or a break in the wire somewhere. I'm gonna be testing my old wires just to be sure with all my TERRIBLY AGGRESSIVE FONDLING and tearing this motor apart that I DID NOT damage my Magnecor 8.5mm wires from LCE..... To be honest, I can't KNOW that they're better or even as good as the Stock NGK's.... But hey, they LOOK better, right? hahahaha.

Rule the spark out first, RB, that's by far the easiest... And NOT JUST "HEY, I have white spark"... but 'constantttttt'.... See if it's not starting off with spark and then POOOF, disappears? And more importantly, if you see it at idle... THEN, GIVE IT SOME GAS and see if the spark disappears.

I have a feeling that it's the plunger in one of your injectors is seizing up.... WAY more likely.... just seems odd that at certain pressures, more air, ...whatever it is that it's not liking at 'LOAD', .... that THIS is when you're having issues.

ODD< I have strange idle and PURRRFECT running on open highway... You have perfect idle and strange running at throttle action, lol. THESE DARN OLD BASTAGES! lol....OOPS, gotta go apologize to her, bbl8r! hahahaha)

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 05-29-2012 at 11:31 AM.
Old 05-29-2012, 11:42 AM
  #1168  
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my idle is a little rough, not bad though, i notice my stick shift wobbles more then it used to.
I will check spark across the plugs(i originally only checked the #1), but i think this is either a bad/clogged injector or my passenger cam timing is off a tooth.
The engine miss under load is consistent across the rev range, and what i mean is very even, this is not a stumble but a more constant engine noise change, like i lost a cylinder...
Old 05-29-2012, 11:47 AM
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So, ...it's a possibility, however slight(HOPEFULLY NOT) that one side(all 3 holes on one side) are 'OFF'?

Yeah, that would be last to verify/rule out. Simple stuff first, ya know? But surely, if you missed a tooth it would APPEAR to idle, well, 'KINDA OK', ...but under ANY load, it's not able to complete 'higher load combustion draw' on that side, no matter what. If you conclude that NOTHING is wrong with spark or fuel... there ya go. If it's the former(PLEASE, NO! lol).... then you might see that entire side of the exhaust taking longer to heat up. Just be careful, man.... Even being careful we got some 'radiant heat arm hair singe'age' while testing, lol. Meh, you'll be fine as you're just checking AS it warms up.
Old 05-29-2012, 11:52 AM
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PS> I would think if it's a 'tooth off' thing... You'd have some serious STINKY going on, ya know? "Unburned fuel, etc.".... If not, I would GUESS it's far more likely the way you're leaning....

Anxious to see you suss this up, RB!
Old 05-29-2012, 12:05 PM
  #1171  
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^^^, right, and i would think it would also give off a code or two(i have had a code 51 before this and still do).
Also, usually if timing is off a smidgen, the engine performance will change across the rev range, and this issue seems to be constant...no change.
Old 06-01-2012, 02:36 AM
  #1172  
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So last night i checked:
All plugs are getting spark, did not check the plugs(i'm just going to replace them)
VAFM checks out
TPS is adjusted
Timing is dead on
Injectors are wired correctly(i took the loom apart) and getting signal

Today i will replace the plugs, and next it would be test the injectors and replace if needed
Old 06-01-2012, 07:39 AM
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I don't know if I could see a clogged injector being the cause of your problems. Because it ran fine before the rebuild correct?
So unless you got something in the fuel rail during tare down or building it back up I don't see how something could have plugged it up. I would check all the control sytems you had off during the rebuild like distributor vac lines an make sure you didn't bend over any pins in the ecm when you plugged it in. I know its hard to do but I have done it once. Took me a while to future that one out.

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Old 06-01-2012, 10:03 AM
  #1174  
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Shag,
Yes it did run fine before i tore it down, actually i had and still have a code 51. The engine pieces were stored in my shed for two months while i figured out if i was going to wait for the diesel or not. These injectors have about 250,000mi on them, not that they are the reason definitely, just saying.
I will go back tonight and look at all the connectors to make sure they are seated correctly. As for the vacuum lines, I'll check again, but after pulling them all off 4 times and having the same issue i am 99% this isn't vacuum related, not to mention i use a diagram every time i hook up the vac lines.

thanks
Old 06-01-2012, 10:48 AM
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Wow, ....GRRR! LOL.... I HATE GREMLINS, RB! lol.

I just feel like Shaggy seemed to... Just doesn't seem logical for you to suddenly have failure over '2 MONTHS OF MASSIVE CORROSION' or something? lol. I know, things happen, and it's ALWAYS possible... Just seems more like a "NO FUEL" problem... Have you tried pulling the wires one at a time? to pinpoint the hole?(sorry, I know, it's a beginner test, ... but just in case, thought I'd throw it out there, lol)

Don't have an injector shop near ya? If so, maybe you could just walk em in. You'd at least find out RIGHT THEN AND THERE if one was frozen up. MINE failed to shoot fuel on #2 due to a blob of crud that came loose within the line after the filter.... went right into #2 and CAPUT! lol.

Hope you get it soon, man! BTW, .... you COULD do one of those 'IN HOME' Injector servicing thingies... Just minus all the costly stuff.. 12V+TAP WITH A LIGHT RAPPING OBJECT+fuel being fed through vacuum hose( It would help if you know for sure which hole is NOT GO-GO-READY! lol)
Old 06-01-2012, 11:04 AM
  #1176  
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Thanks Chef, I think it is something simple that i have overlooked....like a pin bent over in a connector. Everytime i have had a problem in the past it has been a simple remedy....like...uh...cough....no fuel, a bolt that seals the plenum from vacuum leaks...those are just a few of my misadventures, there will be more.

I don't think 2 month of corrosion has thrown a curve ball, i do think the chances are high that i could have knock some crud loose while cleaning or bumping/assembling. Or just plan not hook something up quite right...i'll get it sorted.
Old 06-01-2012, 12:16 PM
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Hahaha... I hear ya...

Seriously though, ... have you pulled the wires, 1 at a time, to at least identify the 'suspect' hole? I mean.... if you can find that, you're going to eliminate TONS of unnecessary 'gremlin hunting', ya know? If NOTHING changes when pulling the wires, ....well, then you more likely have an issue with a sensor or wiring pin, etc., ya know? Just curious and want you done with this!!! hahaha.
Old 06-01-2012, 12:28 PM
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Not saying so much that key a vacuum issue. Just to double check all what u took apart. The last 22re I put in wouldn't idle right after i was done an it was just some stuff i hooked up wrong. It never hurts to check over the small things again.
Old 06-01-2012, 01:04 PM
  #1179  
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I agree shaggy, and I'm going to double check everything. Like the vac leak I had when I did the pair and EGR delete, then I finally found that a bolt on the plenum needed to be sealed, after many many checks.
Chef,
The reason I haven't pulled the wires is due to an issue I read about possible damage to the coil/igniter if the wire is removed while the engine is running. Instead I used a timing light to see if spark was getting to the plug. And all wire checked out. I'm replacing all the plugs since they are cheap and mine were very chalky white...lean condition. Its cheap and then I've eliminated the possible fouled plug issue.

Thanks guys
Old 06-01-2012, 01:12 PM
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ahhh.... I gotcha. Well, wouldn't want you to mess it up, lol. BUT, I meant in doing that you'd determine if you have a SINGLE HOLE GONE AWRY. If it's dangerous, obviously, yeah, don't do it! lol.

Well, watching, ....KILL IT! lol.


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