RBx 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#1041
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
WOW, I missed a bit! lol... Sorry bout the 'exhaustion' of the Veezee! You'll knock it out quick, no doubt! Best wishes on the hunt/purchase/planning for install of the KD-series. Sounds SICK! I have some pics of a VERY trippy rig I saw next to me the other day... It was a newer Toyota, right/driver side, Mini Van that looked like the OLDER, more boxier one, but a little like the newer ones, too? I'll post the pics, later, you'll see what I mean. Anyway, it looked like a really fun expedition van, w/full roof rack, etc., ....and honestly?>>>. IT SOUNDED like a diesel! I wonder if it's the same motor you're speaking of........ I guess he shipped the whole thing here, right? lol.
Man, this truck of yours is getting more and more SUWEET by the week! lol. Like the plan, RB!
Man, this truck of yours is getting more and more SUWEET by the week! lol. Like the plan, RB!
#1042
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks mark. other then a leaky freeze plug, the 3.slo is actually doing well despite the valve noise. My main concern is that this is a remanned engine(i think) and have no idea how many miles are on the head gasket, so really it is just some preventative maintanance.
You may have seen a hi-ace, which would have the 1kd-ftv deisel.
You may have seen a hi-ace, which would have the 1kd-ftv deisel.
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dbittle (04-10-2020)
#1043
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iTrader: (5)
It looked similar, but maybe an older version... Still haven't uploaded the pics, but I will. (Got some great pics at Pick-Your-Part.....shhhhh, they don't allow that, hehe).......
I hear ya on the motor........ I've messed with a couple VeeZee's... but NOTHING extensive. I would love to do a swap like you're planning.... Just can't even find time to mount my aux power outlets/roof rack! lol.... BTW, i got a second S10 Rack(one will go to my buddy with 3 crossbars) at 50% off for 14$ that I'd put 4 CROSSBARS INTO! hehehe... SHHhhhhhhhhhh! lol. Strange... some of the S10 racks have the cross bars with the 'anchor eyelets' built into themselves..... But I also grabbed 10 or so of the stand-alone anchor eyelets.
I am still undecided, as I REALLY want to be able to mount both, the S10 rack(which I'd use FAR more often around town/95% of the time) and the Cage, which I WOULD use with GRATITUDE while on deep in the woods trips! I have a couple much more solid ideas, and I'll post em up asap. Doing the Marine Fuse Block, first, then I'll work on the rack when I can remove the top(it's looking like a serious santa-ana wind storm/possible rain, right now lol)
Keep up the GREAT work on this beast of yours!
I hear ya on the motor........ I've messed with a couple VeeZee's... but NOTHING extensive. I would love to do a swap like you're planning.... Just can't even find time to mount my aux power outlets/roof rack! lol.... BTW, i got a second S10 Rack(one will go to my buddy with 3 crossbars) at 50% off for 14$ that I'd put 4 CROSSBARS INTO! hehehe... SHHhhhhhhhhhh! lol. Strange... some of the S10 racks have the cross bars with the 'anchor eyelets' built into themselves..... But I also grabbed 10 or so of the stand-alone anchor eyelets.
I am still undecided, as I REALLY want to be able to mount both, the S10 rack(which I'd use FAR more often around town/95% of the time) and the Cage, which I WOULD use with GRATITUDE while on deep in the woods trips! I have a couple much more solid ideas, and I'll post em up asap. Doing the Marine Fuse Block, first, then I'll work on the rack when I can remove the top(it's looking like a serious santa-ana wind storm/possible rain, right now lol)
Keep up the GREAT work on this beast of yours!
#1045
Registered User
Zel, the VW TDI isn't completely out of the question yet but here is my rationale:
The Toyota common rail direct injection 1KD-FTV diesel engine puts out 165hp & 260ftlbs of torque, utilizing a stock turbo and inter-cooler. the 3VZ-E has 150hp & 180ftlbs. Foreign markets have access to the 1kd-ftv since it started production in 2000 when they first being fitted into Prados, and can be found in Land Cruisers, vigos/hilux. All of these vehicles weigh a few hundred pounds more then my truck(stock).
A VW TDI is a car engine, which translates to a shorter stroke, rather then a proper truck engine that has a longer stroke, longer stroke equals more torque, more torque makes a great truck engine. Don't get me wrong, if the newer generation VW engines weren't so expensive(used) i'd be dropping one in my rig sooner then later.
However, i have yet to read any VW tdi swap into a yota that flat out says 'this is a way better engine then my old...'. If you can find one, let me know, but i can assure you i have scoured the interwebs.
There are plenty of vw swaps, and lots of guys say its a great little engine, really fun in a toyota, but i haven't seen/heard anyone running a vw mill in a yota fully loaded heading for some expedition adventure. I'm not saying no one has done this, i just haven't read about it.
The avalability of the vw is attractive, but a half-cut prado/landcruiser imported should be about the same price.
Also, i only want to do this swap once, and don't want to regret putting in a 100hp vw tdi that needs tweaking to get the heart rate going, when i could have a proper greaser from Toyota that already powers bigger heavier vehicles, and maintain the reliability.
The Toyota common rail direct injection 1KD-FTV diesel engine puts out 165hp & 260ftlbs of torque, utilizing a stock turbo and inter-cooler. the 3VZ-E has 150hp & 180ftlbs. Foreign markets have access to the 1kd-ftv since it started production in 2000 when they first being fitted into Prados, and can be found in Land Cruisers, vigos/hilux. All of these vehicles weigh a few hundred pounds more then my truck(stock).
A VW TDI is a car engine, which translates to a shorter stroke, rather then a proper truck engine that has a longer stroke, longer stroke equals more torque, more torque makes a great truck engine. Don't get me wrong, if the newer generation VW engines weren't so expensive(used) i'd be dropping one in my rig sooner then later.
However, i have yet to read any VW tdi swap into a yota that flat out says 'this is a way better engine then my old...'. If you can find one, let me know, but i can assure you i have scoured the interwebs.
There are plenty of vw swaps, and lots of guys say its a great little engine, really fun in a toyota, but i haven't seen/heard anyone running a vw mill in a yota fully loaded heading for some expedition adventure. I'm not saying no one has done this, i just haven't read about it.
The avalability of the vw is attractive, but a half-cut prado/landcruiser imported should be about the same price.
Also, i only want to do this swap once, and don't want to regret putting in a 100hp vw tdi that needs tweaking to get the heart rate going, when i could have a proper greaser from Toyota that already powers bigger heavier vehicles, and maintain the reliability.
#1046
Registered User
Thread Starter
Mark I just ordered rivnuts to mount my basket on the curved rack crossbars, so we will see how that goes.
Zelephant,
I can get the parts at a dealer, they would have to be ordered when I need them if it's a major part I need. True, I couldn't run to the local am and pa for a part and be back on the road, but I plan on using my existing mr2 alternator. I'll also try to research to see if other accessories will bolt up with a bit of bracket fab. So sensors would be the next issue with an engine and those are probably interchangeable throughout the Toyota line, l still need to research this. Injectors are what gets fouled on the 1kd do to our low grade diesel.
Zelephant,
I can get the parts at a dealer, they would have to be ordered when I need them if it's a major part I need. True, I couldn't run to the local am and pa for a part and be back on the road, but I plan on using my existing mr2 alternator. I'll also try to research to see if other accessories will bolt up with a bit of bracket fab. So sensors would be the next issue with an engine and those are probably interchangeable throughout the Toyota line, l still need to research this. Injectors are what gets fouled on the 1kd do to our low grade diesel.
#1047
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Ahhh... ok! Only thing with mounting on that that I don't like is the height it would be... But you can't have everything you want, every time, I KNOW THIS! lol. I also thought about eliminating the cross bars when using the cage and making pegs that would slide up and down the rails(this would mean the basket would actually be mounted TO the slots in the SIDE rails, making the basket, itself, the cross bar supports, make sense?) I also was told that these cross bars can be gently put back to straight.... Not sure on that one, and I would imagine it would greatly diminish it's 'capacity', even if possible... So it seems the way you're thinking might just be the best.
I'm still curious, however, .... You said, "My cross bars don't have plastic/rubber"....and I've not seen a single set that don't. Every year of that version rack I've checked at the yards has had a piece in the center of the cross bar that serves as the 'pad' for things you mount up there I suppose, ..and it slides out the side when you remove the cross bars from the side rails and their own mounting brackets(I'll get pics, but I hope you know what I mean)..... The entire rail but that part is aluminum.... Or are yours different? If they're not different, are you putting the riv-nuts 'through' the plastic/rubber portion?
Sorry, I don't mean to drag your thread into a tangent... it's just got me excited as I might have time in the near future to get at this! hahaha.
I'm still curious, however, .... You said, "My cross bars don't have plastic/rubber"....and I've not seen a single set that don't. Every year of that version rack I've checked at the yards has had a piece in the center of the cross bar that serves as the 'pad' for things you mount up there I suppose, ..and it slides out the side when you remove the cross bars from the side rails and their own mounting brackets(I'll get pics, but I hope you know what I mean)..... The entire rail but that part is aluminum.... Or are yours different? If they're not different, are you putting the riv-nuts 'through' the plastic/rubber portion?
Sorry, I don't mean to drag your thread into a tangent... it's just got me excited as I might have time in the near future to get at this! hahaha.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 02-27-2012 at 04:11 PM.
#1049
Registered User
Thread Starter
Center Dash Switch Panel
I have been staring at my center dash panel (under Radio) for a while now, and have to say i don't like it. Like most of my 'not sure' projects, this was being modded as i go. So with a look to the future of mods to come i thought i would layout a proper dash display concept, and see what you all think. I am trying to include any possible switch i could need in the future. Let me hear your opinion, especially if you think i am missing something or layout could be better(more intuitive.)
This panel will be a back-lit piece of lexan, with opaque vinyl blacking out everything but lettering, and lines as you'd expect from a dash piece(the perforated metal is going away). I want it to look like it is factory so i will be matching the Toyota instrument font. To be honest i have a rat's nest behind this panel that needs to be addressed.
Old current set-up, no labels for switches, currently, Inverter, Dome Light, Lock/UnLock, 12v Cig, (Not Shown)Battery Monitor LED and eFan speed LEDs
Only pic i have:
New Concept(will be messaged a bit more for layout spacing), Including possible future mods--H20(shower pump), CB antenna(ATT), 2x 12v jack(1-ignition activated, 1-always hot)
Concept:
for some reason the drawing is a bit dark
This panel will be a back-lit piece of lexan, with opaque vinyl blacking out everything but lettering, and lines as you'd expect from a dash piece(the perforated metal is going away). I want it to look like it is factory so i will be matching the Toyota instrument font. To be honest i have a rat's nest behind this panel that needs to be addressed.
Old current set-up, no labels for switches, currently, Inverter, Dome Light, Lock/UnLock, 12v Cig, (Not Shown)Battery Monitor LED and eFan speed LEDs
Only pic i have:
New Concept(will be messaged a bit more for layout spacing), Including possible future mods--H20(shower pump), CB antenna(ATT), 2x 12v jack(1-ignition activated, 1-always hot)
Concept:
for some reason the drawing is a bit dark
Last edited by RBX; 02-18-2015 at 05:26 AM.
#1051
Registered User
Thread Starter
using these:
I like the old school chrome toggles, so i may switch (get it) to them, but the above switch is easy to install and will not block any light from illuminating the switch labels.
the actual switch is about 7/8" diameter, and the panel measures 7-3/4" x 4-1/8"
I like the old school chrome toggles, so i may switch (get it) to them, but the above switch is easy to install and will not block any light from illuminating the switch labels.
the actual switch is about 7/8" diameter, and the panel measures 7-3/4" x 4-1/8"
Last edited by RBX; 02-18-2015 at 05:28 AM.
#1052
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
My buddy has switches KIND OF like that, RB..... But they have flip top covers.... He said he was going to just do a whole flip out panel to cover all of them, but he found these covers that flip open to expose the switch. He, like me, wound up melting the light covers on his PIAA's, by not knowing they were on, even with the LED Indicator, it can happen.... don't mock me! hahaha. Jk, but you know what I mean. Have you seen those? I'm not sure where he got em... but I like the look of them. He has labels on the covers.
LOVE the concept... gonna be NICE!(like everything on this beauty so far, OF course! lol)
LOVE the concept... gonna be NICE!(like everything on this beauty so far, OF course! lol)
#1053
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey Chef, thanks i never would have thought of that. Maybe i make an 'arm' button for the some of the high power lights. Hmmmm, now you go me thinking of how to overcome this issue....
Thanks
Thanks
#1055
Registered User
Thread Starter
^^^ Ian, i think i may do that also, but what if i reach across there, or someone switches a light on during the day, while driving, with the lights covered....that is what i would like to avoid. Or, maybe i just make my pimp hand strong for those that aren't careful in my rig. Recognize!
#1056
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
the way mine is set up, the running lights need to be on for the hellas to be on. that means if the headlight switch is off, the hellas won't light. they will light if the running lights, headlights, or high-beams are on (not if you "flick" the high-beams).
but yeah, pimp hand...
but yeah, pimp hand...
#1058
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
You don't like these, with different colors and stuff? hehehe........ But serious... you don't like this type?>>>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-JK-Rock...sories&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-JK-Rock...sories&vxp=mtr
#1059
Registered User
Thread Starter
I see Ian, that's a great idea, but I still need a strong pimp hand.
Mark, why would I put Jeep switches in my Yota? Thats like putting a Bosch sensor on her!
Seriously though, I like those rockers, but they are much bigger and it's easier to drill a hole then cut a box out.
Mark, why would I put Jeep switches in my Yota? Thats like putting a Bosch sensor on her!
Seriously though, I like those rockers, but they are much bigger and it's easier to drill a hole then cut a box out.
#1060
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
hahaha.... Yeah, I didn't mean 'Jeep' rockers, lol. Sorry. Anyway, I TOTALLY agree with the 'ease of install' factor being favorable in your plan! Gonna do a template, then cut out, then drill out through nice clean template and slap em in?
OH, and you're using a bunch of different colors or just sections of blue, red and then green or something?
OH, and you're using a bunch of different colors or just sections of blue, red and then green or something?