RBx 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#841
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
cool. i just meant your disc-swap, not the e-brake. but yeah, bring the caliper, i'd love to see how it could be interfaced
while there are a bunch of mods i want to do, i'm seeing now that i only have a few months of school left. so i'll just live vicariously through the mods of everyone else for now
while there are a bunch of mods i want to do, i'm seeing now that i only have a few months of school left. so i'll just live vicariously through the mods of everyone else for now
#842
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just a video from this weekend
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1rXMCvjdy0
Here is the thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f100...n-pics-243255/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1rXMCvjdy0
Here is the thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f100...n-pics-243255/
#843
Registered User
wow man. this is a great build thread. i started reading the first couple pages, then skipped to the last couple pages, and now i feel dizzy from reading too much with the wrong glasses and i have to take a break.
it's kinda creepy that you've done a bunch of things i'm in the middle of, or have just finished, or is still on my to-do list. nice to see some of my "wonder if's" already completed here, and with some dang fine quality. really great work here man.
i'll finish reading this thread when i can, then maybe you can answer a few questions for me if the answers aren't already in here.
i'm wondering how that deadening material is working for you, with the soft top on. did removing the hard top eliminate the benefits you gained from all that foil absorber material you put down? should i even bother? or, did you consider mounting your canback racks more toward the back? my soft top doesn't yet have slits in it, so i could mount like you have it; or i could turn the side rails 180* so the mounting tabs are to the rear. then i'd be able to access a basket by standing on the tailgate. i'm thinking do it that way so i can put a spare up there and avoid a rear tire carrier.
i read you were installing a 5 channel amp. i'm in the middle of that right now! who uses 5 channel??? i can't wait to finish reading how that worked out.
22 pages. wow, can't wait to get back to it. thanx for posting; happy trails!
tj
it's kinda creepy that you've done a bunch of things i'm in the middle of, or have just finished, or is still on my to-do list. nice to see some of my "wonder if's" already completed here, and with some dang fine quality. really great work here man.
i'll finish reading this thread when i can, then maybe you can answer a few questions for me if the answers aren't already in here.
i'm wondering how that deadening material is working for you, with the soft top on. did removing the hard top eliminate the benefits you gained from all that foil absorber material you put down? should i even bother? or, did you consider mounting your canback racks more toward the back? my soft top doesn't yet have slits in it, so i could mount like you have it; or i could turn the side rails 180* so the mounting tabs are to the rear. then i'd be able to access a basket by standing on the tailgate. i'm thinking do it that way so i can put a spare up there and avoid a rear tire carrier.
i read you were installing a 5 channel amp. i'm in the middle of that right now! who uses 5 channel??? i can't wait to finish reading how that worked out.
22 pages. wow, can't wait to get back to it. thanx for posting; happy trails!
tj
Last edited by tj884Rdlx; 10-20-2011 at 08:26 AM.
#844
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the kind words TJ.
The sound deadening works very well, however the can-back top gives more wind noise and traffic sounds as well. I don't run the soft-top all year, so the hard-top will be going back on very soon, and i can say it is a big improvement.
Can-Back was bought used, and that is the way the PO mounted it. While i think it would look better mounted towards the back more, the weight is more evenly distributed when mounting it closer to the cab. Plus, i can mount lights on the front of the basket if i want. I can stand on the tailgate to access the basket, but i need to climb onto the tires if i want to reach the front of the basket.
5 channel amp...front right and left, rear right and left, plus one sub channel = 5. I think my stereo sounds better outside the truck then inside.
The sound deadening works very well, however the can-back top gives more wind noise and traffic sounds as well. I don't run the soft-top all year, so the hard-top will be going back on very soon, and i can say it is a big improvement.
Can-Back was bought used, and that is the way the PO mounted it. While i think it would look better mounted towards the back more, the weight is more evenly distributed when mounting it closer to the cab. Plus, i can mount lights on the front of the basket if i want. I can stand on the tailgate to access the basket, but i need to climb onto the tires if i want to reach the front of the basket.
5 channel amp...front right and left, rear right and left, plus one sub channel = 5. I think my stereo sounds better outside the truck then inside.
#845
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Moyock,NC
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Your trip looked fun. Wish I had something close to me like that. BTW what was the name of that cheap sound deadening?? Was it peel and seal?
Last edited by richf; 10-20-2011 at 04:03 PM.
#849
Registered User
Thread Starter
Haven't fabbed the ebrake bracket yet.
Did this before going to George Washington National Forest(pics soon).
Spoiler from a 2nd gen 4Runner, pre brake light.
Rack , 200lbs rating, late 90's Blazer.
Did this before going to George Washington National Forest(pics soon).
Spoiler from a 2nd gen 4Runner, pre brake light.
Rack , 200lbs rating, late 90's Blazer.
Last edited by RBX; 02-16-2015 at 12:07 PM.
#854
Registered User
Thread Starter
Posted Some pics of my trip to George Washington National Forest in the Lee Ranger District near Edinburg, Va.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f100.../#post51807793
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f100.../#post51807793
#855
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Hey, .... any write up/pics of the blazer rack install????
PS> What will your weight capacity be, curious. I would think it would be minimal since the rails of that rack are plastic, right? There's a guy on here with a great write up that built his own rack, etc., ....and he used box tube steel mounted through the hard top...(I'm not downing your plan.... I think it's a GREAT idea, and very good improv... it just inspired me to look up his link which I've bookmarked, lol.... Just curious what your new apparatus can hold.... on top of a rack basket. I'll be watching GREAT JOB!)
PS> What will your weight capacity be, curious. I would think it would be minimal since the rails of that rack are plastic, right? There's a guy on here with a great write up that built his own rack, etc., ....and he used box tube steel mounted through the hard top...(I'm not downing your plan.... I think it's a GREAT idea, and very good improv... it just inspired me to look up his link which I've bookmarked, lol.... Just curious what your new apparatus can hold.... on top of a rack basket. I'll be watching GREAT JOB!)
#856
Registered User
Thread Starter
Mark,
The rack is aluminum, and the ends are plastic. I basically took it apart, measured and cut the rails to fit between the rear windows and a few inches shy of the front and rear of the cab. Marked and drilled the holes thru the fiberglass top. Used stainless bolts, some sleeves on the bolts as to not deform the fiberglass when tightened down, permatex as a gasket, then made a plate on the inside. The plate is just 1/8" aluminum with two holes for each end of the rack to secure and spread out the load forces.
After a road trip recently, the rack is basically silent, but i haven't added the basket yet, and probably won't this winter. The basket looks cool, but kills mpg.
there, how's that for a write up? j/k
The rack is aluminum, and the ends are plastic. I basically took it apart, measured and cut the rails to fit between the rear windows and a few inches shy of the front and rear of the cab. Marked and drilled the holes thru the fiberglass top. Used stainless bolts, some sleeves on the bolts as to not deform the fiberglass when tightened down, permatex as a gasket, then made a plate on the inside. The plate is just 1/8" aluminum with two holes for each end of the rack to secure and spread out the load forces.
After a road trip recently, the rack is basically silent, but i haven't added the basket yet, and probably won't this winter. The basket looks cool, but kills mpg.
there, how's that for a write up? j/k
#857
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
That's SICK! lol.... Ok, now, ....PICS! Hahaaaaaaaaa, didn't see that coming, eh? lol.
JK, I've been looking for a spare shell for a reasonable price... Found one on LA CL for 400$!!!!!! hahahahahahahaha. Yeah, hilarious... One was 75, but pretty tattered in the liner. I'm not havin none-o-dat! lol. If I find one with gray tone and that's clean/good moldings, .... I'll drill out mine as the liner has a couple lil holes in it. But vice versa if the other is bad, and then I'll just do my own liner! lol. We'll see, ya know?
I'm off to FAMART Welding right now.... HOPING it works out! We'll see(yeah, ...lot's of 'we'll see' for me lately, eh? lol)
JK, I've been looking for a spare shell for a reasonable price... Found one on LA CL for 400$!!!!!! hahahahahahahaha. Yeah, hilarious... One was 75, but pretty tattered in the liner. I'm not havin none-o-dat! lol. If I find one with gray tone and that's clean/good moldings, .... I'll drill out mine as the liner has a couple lil holes in it. But vice versa if the other is bad, and then I'll just do my own liner! lol. We'll see, ya know?
I'm off to FAMART Welding right now.... HOPING it works out! We'll see(yeah, ...lot's of 'we'll see' for me lately, eh? lol)
#858
Registered User
Thread Starter
Aisin Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit sources
So i think my squishy brake issue is due to a faulty MC. I got the MC from '93 T100. While it was better then the original i pulled from my rig at the time, it is slowly failing and i'd like to rebuild it.
I have searched Hi & Lo, and I'll be damned if i can find sources for a reputable rebuild kit...Aisin, Altrom(sp?)
Anyone have any suggestions? Buying a remanned MC is way too much money, IMO, especially when i can rebuild the MC i have.
Thanks
I have searched Hi & Lo, and I'll be damned if i can find sources for a reputable rebuild kit...Aisin, Altrom(sp?)
Anyone have any suggestions? Buying a remanned MC is way too much money, IMO, especially when i can rebuild the MC i have.
Thanks
#859
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
No NAPA kit, eh? They had an Altrom for mine,.... but yes, that one is not mine, hahaha.
Not sure... have you tried dealerdirectparts.com? Call them, don't bother fishing around the site... There's one guy there who is REALLY knowledgeable.... can't remember his name. BUT, most of them will call the tech-dept. and get a solid answer on part numbers, etc., if it's available OEM, ya know? Plus, OEM is more, yes, but might even be cheaper than Altrom from DDP.com, ya know?
Not sure... have you tried dealerdirectparts.com? Call them, don't bother fishing around the site... There's one guy there who is REALLY knowledgeable.... can't remember his name. BUT, most of them will call the tech-dept. and get a solid answer on part numbers, etc., if it's available OEM, ya know? Plus, OEM is more, yes, but might even be cheaper than Altrom from DDP.com, ya know?