Mark, I'll try to do a write up, but work has me swamped right now.

I am making my own brake conversion because it's cheaper and all yota. Except the e-brake will be mechanical calipers from wilwood. I am using solid front rotors. My 80 Cressida calipers songs fit so they go back and I just ordered single piston 83 corolla calipers, they should fit, I hope.
The reason I am doing a separate e-brake is because any rear caliper with an ebrake will take some fabbing to get the cable to work. I figure I might as well make it easier then trying to find a yota rear caliper with ebrake since they all seem to use drum parking brake systems after 1980. And you can't buy the supra mk1 brakes anymore.
For the mount I ordered Davez performance disc adapter since they were the cheapest and I would have to mod any adapter I bought.

 

wow! some fantastic work here, man.

quick question: now that you've gone through the trouble to "sound deaden", do you really think it made the truck quiet, or is it still loud as heck?

i replaced my carpet with anti-fatigue mat, and it's still as loud as ever. i have considered adding in the peel n' stick type deadner product.

but i can't imagine a thin layer of foil really doing much more to help quiet a vehicle that starts out so much louder than a more modern car/suv. as in, what's the point of reducing sound only a couple dB when you're overall noise is like a jet plane.

i appreciate any conclusion/feedback you may be able to offer. best of luck with your continuing build.

oh and nice work with the dash switches. really clean!

 

I put the same stuff in my cab and it did help a ton.

Its more of the sticky tar stuff that does the sound killing then the aluminum...

 

Don't sweat it, man! lol... As you can see, it's taken me DAYS to even see this response to my orig. query! lol.

Keep having fun with that SUWEET rig!

PS> Chairs are in the works.... HOPEFULLY they'll fit. I'll update on my thread, not here, don't worry, hahaha.

 

On sound deadening.:
Yes I think it made a tremendous difference. I put the deadening pads in the doors, quarterpanels, and tailgate. Also, I used roofing butyl for the floor then put the duct wrap behind the removable panels in the bed and doors. Running an Efan quiets down the truck as well. Is it quiet like a luxury car? No. The aerodynamics of the truck negates those affects but it helps with engine and road noise.
The duct wrap was really used to help with interior climate control but probably adds a benefit of sound dampening. If your truck rattles from loose stuff, tailgate stays, you will still hear it. I'd do it to the next rig I own in a heartbeat.

 

Oh, thanks for the compliments. Now it's on to the disc brake swap tomorrow. Got my corolla calipers in today and axle rebuild kit.

 

Here is what i have done for a rear drum to disc swap (conversion)

2x Solid front rotors from a SFA $40(pair)
83 Corolla SR5 Calipers loaded $40(pair)
2x IFS flexible brake lines $10 each
40" of 3/16" brake line $4
Axle flanges milled to fit inside the rotors $100(machinist said it took longer but he liked the job so he cut me some slack)
Axle wheel bearing rebuild kit (left and Right) $150

Axle flange milled to fit in the rotors


modified caliper brackets, i needed to space the caliper closer to the rotor since my rotor will ride on the outside of the flange, not to mention caliper mounting holes are spaced differently.


Rotor and caliper fitment, this was to make sure my caliper was far enough away from the rotor, my fist attempt had clearance issues. The caliper is actually not placed correctly in this shot.



painted the axle bearing cups


Rotor and axle installed


i get a few pics up soon of the calipers and plumbing but it has been raining here for the past few days.

 

Looks great so far!!!!
Can you add your costs on your listing of parts above to give people idea what it will cost, and add how much was it to have axles milled to accept the rotor?
Looking forward to seeing more!!!!

 

added prices

 

X2. Are you putting the t-case brake in now or sometime later?

 

About the t-case brake...
My original idea was to use a Wilwood Spot Caliper on each wheel, and fab a bracket to use the existing cable. It would be cheaper then the t-case brake, but more time consuming....so i am still thinking about what to do.
I could also use the same caliper, and fab a t-case brake from a rotor....still, takes time.
What ever i do will be soon, because i hate not having a parking brake.

 

what about routing the ebrake cable to pull on the brake pedal?

 

thought about that, but that isn't really a parking brake...if you have hydraulic failure, the cable actuated brake may give you little, and i mean little hope.

Seriously, i was going to do the cable/pedal thing, but i really do want a proper cable actuated brake. I don't want to worry about leaving the truck on a hill overnight, or a few days and worry about the system leaking down, because it will. For that matter i would just put in a line lock which would be much easier, and i don't have to ruin my e-brake cable.

 

No calipers from any other toy car or other cars with rear discs brakes will work, I assume they would be set up for an ebrake?

 

i am not sure i understand what you mean..
I searched MANY yota calipers with e-brakes, and after 1980, toyota seemed to go to a drum style e-brake on every vehicle i checked. Also, ANY e-brake caliper you get will take some modifiying to get the cable to work.
I could have used the GM style calipers and brackets. I still would have needed to fab an e-brake cable attachement

 

You have always come up with some great improvemets. Im always checking in.

 

well looking forward to see what you come up with

 

I'm trying guys, thanks for the encouragement, honestly it's an illness.

 

lol, but a good illness.

 

let us be your enablers