RBx 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
07-08-2011, 04:40 AM
#622
Registered User
Thread Starter
Last night before it rained i started the timing belt kit install. I believe my oil pump crank seal is leaking, so i will be replacing that also. This is why i never put my timing belt cover back on....i probably won't put it back on after this either.
I am also growing more annoyed by my messy power steering leak so i may tackle this sooner then later. Honestly i can't tell where it is leaking from.
I am also growing more annoyed by my messy power steering leak so i may tackle this sooner then later. Honestly i can't tell where it is leaking from.
07-08-2011, 05:41 AM
#624
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks shaggy
I can't tell where it's coming from but I do need a high pressure line since mine is in bad shape. I'll look into the seal kit.
I can't tell where it's coming from but I do need a high pressure line since mine is in bad shape. I'll look into the seal kit.
07-08-2011, 10:28 AM
#625
Hey RB, ....
You'll get it! And, although mine is clearly different(not having the reservoir attached, etc.), they are still made up of only 2-3 more common leaking areas I'd imagine.
1. The body joining CAN leak. 4 bolts hold the two body pieces together?
2. The flange nut(mine leaked there, and it was already tight, so I used some thread sealant and the tiny leak disappeared. Permatex High Temp/Pressure Thread Sealant)
3. Main front seal(although, that's usually more easy to tell)
Like Shaggy said(he's a very detail oriented guy from looking at his 1UZ thread!).... the reseal kit, even at Napa, would probably get it ALL sealed up, on the cheap.
PS> Does this have a vacuum apparatus like the 22RE pump? Mine leaked from there and was the most difficult to find. It leaked down from there and around the rear of the body and down the support, then down the block, then over the timing cover, looking like a timing cover leak.
You'll get it! And, although mine is clearly different(not having the reservoir attached, etc.), they are still made up of only 2-3 more common leaking areas I'd imagine.
1. The body joining CAN leak. 4 bolts hold the two body pieces together?
2. The flange nut(mine leaked there, and it was already tight, so I used some thread sealant and the tiny leak disappeared. Permatex High Temp/Pressure Thread Sealant)
3. Main front seal(although, that's usually more easy to tell)
Like Shaggy said(he's a very detail oriented guy from looking at his 1UZ thread!).... the reseal kit, even at Napa, would probably get it ALL sealed up, on the cheap.
PS> Does this have a vacuum apparatus like the 22RE pump? Mine leaked from there and was the most difficult to find. It leaked down from there and around the rear of the body and down the support, then down the block, then over the timing cover, looking like a timing cover leak.
07-08-2011, 01:17 PM
#626
Registered User
Thread Starter
Mark it is similar to the 22re pump in almost every way. Lines are long because it's mounted on the passenger side. Thanks
Got my wideband today
Got my wideband today
Last edited by RBX; 02-06-2015 at 06:18 AM.
07-12-2011, 03:46 AM
#629
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got it on Fleabay...$168 shipped.
Used an M18x1.5 nut to weld as the bung on the exhaust. the UEGO comes with a stainless bung, but my mild steel exhaust won't last long.
finished the timing belt kit install. before
Passenger side cam was off by a few teeth(orange marks are where my TDC is compared to factory), she actually ran pretty good considering.
Driver side:
****just because you know what a wrench looks like, does not mean you have any business attempting to use one**** Thank you PO!
Crank pulley was rusted on, but not as bad as the crank timing gear. woodruff key badly grooved/wrecked, probably due to an idiot forcing the crank pulley into the wrong location.
I have some other interesting wire news to report as well as my AFR findings.
####I need to know where the Speed Sensor is, and what and where the PPS computer is/does####
Used an M18x1.5 nut to weld as the bung on the exhaust. the UEGO comes with a stainless bung, but my mild steel exhaust won't last long.
finished the timing belt kit install. before
Passenger side cam was off by a few teeth(orange marks are where my TDC is compared to factory), she actually ran pretty good considering.
Driver side:
****just because you know what a wrench looks like, does not mean you have any business attempting to use one**** Thank you PO!
Crank pulley was rusted on, but not as bad as the crank timing gear. woodruff key badly grooved/wrecked, probably due to an idiot forcing the crank pulley into the wrong location.
I have some other interesting wire news to report as well as my AFR findings.
####I need to know where the Speed Sensor is, and what and where the PPS computer is/does####
Last edited by RBX; 02-06-2015 at 06:26 AM.
07-12-2011, 03:46 PM
#631
Registered User
Thread Starter
Speedo cable on mine is on pass side as you said, but there is a speed sensor in the cluster I learned after some research. I think mine is missing the signal after the trans swap.
07-13-2011, 04:41 AM
#632
Registered User
Thread Starter
Issues, and Codes and Wire repair
The wideband is a love/hate relationship.....i love it's honesty and HATE it at the same time. I can dial my mix into 14.7 in literally seconds....at idle. then when i hit the skinny pedal she goes all rich, like 10.0 rich...yikes!
This brings me to my last two days of tracking issues down, anyone with some advice please weigh in.
Monday...
I am elbow deep in trying to figure out why the rig is getting awful mileage, and terrible air/fuel mix. Diagnostics sends back codes 42 & 51.
Code 42
(1) Vehicle Speed Sensor
Code 51
Switch Condition Signal
(1) 3 sec. or more after engine starts with closed throttle position
switch OFF (IDL).
(2) Park/Neutral switch OFF (PNP).
(Shift position in “R”, “D”, “2”, or “L” positions).
(3) A/C switch ON.
After some research and starting stopping, resetting the ECM, i come to the conclusion this may be linked to the fact that i left my Auto trans piggyback ECT unplugged...so i plug it in....no change.
Monday night approaches and i cannot get a fuel mix to stick and on top of the above codes i start getting code 41 TPS fault. At this point i remember when i first got the truck and was getting this code, so i replaced the TPS with a known good TPS, the code went away and came back, but ultimately cleared?>!?!>!
I thought before this could be the the brittle aged wiring, and to remove my frustrations i was going to rewire the TPS to the ECM. 2 hours later and i have replaced wires water temperature wires, 3 out of 4 TPS wires, A/C diode wires, 1 VAFM wire, all soldered and shrinked with water proof heat shrink. every junction was corroded, and the wire in the jackets were pretty dull copper color, so i replaced all of those wires to the firewall, removing almost all the factory wire so i know i have a good signal.
Take her for a test drive and same issue...running really rich.
Tuesday....
Research possible remedies for my three codes and discover that i need to hook up my auto transmission piggyback to remedy code 42 (VSS). However, i need to tell the computer to stay in Park/Neutral...and i have already removed my trans...DOH!
Examining the wire schematic, i figure i can jump wires from the neutral on the ECT to the power and the computer should think it is in neutral. This is critical for proper operation because the ECT will retard the spark at known shift points if it thinks it is in another gear. This condition will give you stumbling at those rpms, and i have experienced that.
As of yesterday, this cleared codes 51 and 42, but then i started getting code 41...ARRRRGHHHHH!
Tonight i will try to take her for a test run once i get the other TPS back on, i would definitely buy a now OEM TPS if i was 100% certain that was my problem, but i'm not sure.
I'll report back what i find.
This brings me to my last two days of tracking issues down, anyone with some advice please weigh in.
Monday...
I am elbow deep in trying to figure out why the rig is getting awful mileage, and terrible air/fuel mix. Diagnostics sends back codes 42 & 51.
Code 42
(1) Vehicle Speed Sensor
Code 51
Switch Condition Signal
(1) 3 sec. or more after engine starts with closed throttle position
switch OFF (IDL).
(2) Park/Neutral switch OFF (PNP).
(Shift position in “R”, “D”, “2”, or “L” positions).
(3) A/C switch ON.
After some research and starting stopping, resetting the ECM, i come to the conclusion this may be linked to the fact that i left my Auto trans piggyback ECT unplugged...so i plug it in....no change.
Monday night approaches and i cannot get a fuel mix to stick and on top of the above codes i start getting code 41 TPS fault. At this point i remember when i first got the truck and was getting this code, so i replaced the TPS with a known good TPS, the code went away and came back, but ultimately cleared?>!?!>!
I thought before this could be the the brittle aged wiring, and to remove my frustrations i was going to rewire the TPS to the ECM. 2 hours later and i have replaced wires water temperature wires, 3 out of 4 TPS wires, A/C diode wires, 1 VAFM wire, all soldered and shrinked with water proof heat shrink. every junction was corroded, and the wire in the jackets were pretty dull copper color, so i replaced all of those wires to the firewall, removing almost all the factory wire so i know i have a good signal.
Take her for a test drive and same issue...running really rich.
Tuesday....
Research possible remedies for my three codes and discover that i need to hook up my auto transmission piggyback to remedy code 42 (VSS). However, i need to tell the computer to stay in Park/Neutral...and i have already removed my trans...DOH!
Examining the wire schematic, i figure i can jump wires from the neutral on the ECT to the power and the computer should think it is in neutral. This is critical for proper operation because the ECT will retard the spark at known shift points if it thinks it is in another gear. This condition will give you stumbling at those rpms, and i have experienced that.
As of yesterday, this cleared codes 51 and 42, but then i started getting code 41...ARRRRGHHHHH!
Tonight i will try to take her for a test run once i get the other TPS back on, i would definitely buy a now OEM TPS if i was 100% certain that was my problem, but i'm not sure.
I'll report back what i find.
07-13-2011, 05:54 AM
#635
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well i just ordered a new OEM TPS, the known working one i have is 23years old, so she could use a new one at least, and i say known good, but it is from a 22re and never thru any codes before.
07-13-2011, 08:08 AM
#637
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ian,
I am sure they are related, but i think my TPS was on its way out. If the ECT(trans computer) thinks the truck is reaching a gear change it will retard the spark. Gear change occurs around 2500rpm...guess what rpm i cruise on the expressway at.... So this is the culprit.
Another issue i forgot to mention was the Neutral start switch. As i mentioned earlier i wired in a clutch cancel switch as well as a start relay, however, after looking at the schematics i realize an error. It seems the ECM still checks the trans position even after the engine is started and out of the ST1 key position and in the IG1 position(these are schematic labels). This may have been one issue i had with the code 51). I jumpered the relay last night and found my code 51 had gone away.
DCC controller is back and operational.
I am sure they are related, but i think my TPS was on its way out. If the ECT(trans computer) thinks the truck is reaching a gear change it will retard the spark. Gear change occurs around 2500rpm...guess what rpm i cruise on the expressway at.... So this is the culprit.
Another issue i forgot to mention was the Neutral start switch. As i mentioned earlier i wired in a clutch cancel switch as well as a start relay, however, after looking at the schematics i realize an error. It seems the ECM still checks the trans position even after the engine is started and out of the ST1 key position and in the IG1 position(these are schematic labels). This may have been one issue i had with the code 51). I jumpered the relay last night and found my code 51 had gone away.
DCC controller is back and operational.
07-13-2011, 09:55 AM
#638
Good LORD I don't miss chasing these type of gremlins.... And of course, there's no guarantee I will not, again, indefinitely, hahahaa... So I just wanted to say 'CONGRATZ' on the most likely track down of the culprit! Man, it's always something, ....but when you add a swap or something, it just amplifies, eh? lol.
07-13-2011, 10:38 AM
#639
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah the swap definitely didn't help, i just wish i had my AFR meter before i swapped trannies so i could compare. Before the swap i didn't have any codes, not one! With that said, i had gotten a 41(TPS) but it seemed to go away. This is likely due to the corroded wires, reason for replacing them.
07-13-2011, 10:46 AM
#640
Right, ...Im' sure MANY people would be shocked at the amount of corrosion going on under their harness wrap! lol. Still, you'll get it, and it's SO MUCH nicer, IMHO, having a 5spd. manual. Auto's are nice, too, with certain set ups and plenty of power, etc. Just always had a stick, so it's more comfy for me, lol.
Hope you get all the codes and nonsense worked out sooner than later so you can just GO-GO-GOOOOOOOO! lol.
PS> Saw a guy yesterday who pulled up with a 89 4Runner and it sounded throaty. I asked, "What's in that?" He said, "289 Cobra Jet"! hahaha. He had an auto.... and it chirped in 1st and second with 35's as he left the lot! lol.
Hope you get all the codes and nonsense worked out sooner than later so you can just GO-GO-GOOOOOOOO! lol.
PS> Saw a guy yesterday who pulled up with a 89 4Runner and it sounded throaty. I asked, "What's in that?" He said, "289 Cobra Jet"! hahaha. He had an auto.... and it chirped in 1st and second with 35's as he left the lot! lol.
