RBX

In Maryland (the land of pleasant living), it is tagged Historic...no emissions, no inspection!

The lug nut seals tighter then the old loose valve coverhose....that damn thing was just an oil siphon to my TB. And yes i have a new pcv valve on the other valve cover.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

i gotta wait 7 years before i can tag this one as such.

sorry i can't be of much help. if it were a 22r-e, though... anyway, good luck in tracking down the problem. one month to go!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah,..... I really doubt a 'mating surface' vacuum leak or SMALL hose missing would cause this. Something is 'OFF', no doubt. MAN, I'm sorry to hear this, RB. Not a big 3.0 guy, so I can't really give you any life experience on one, lol. But, ....the 'BIG THREE' always apply. I know, you're experienced, ...don't mean to be insulting, lol...

1. COMPRESSION
2. FUEL
3. SPARK
...A. TIMING!

Bottom line, RB, ..... you did this mod, now it wont start. Only things that can make sense, are, EITHER, as Ian said, "the mod SOMEHOW isn't allowing you to 'go-go'".... OR, ....... while working in there, you possibly shorted out something? Maybe a wire or two got tugged on? You're SURE you're getting plenty of fuel pressure to the top end, csi, etc?

Could you just go over everything you've mentioned in a list, like 1., 2., 3. ???? Please?

Would seem that if you hooked up something improperly.... IT MIGHT cause something to 'SHUT OFF' THE AIR INTAKE, .....NO?

Did you have to remove the dizzy to do all this?(Maybe it's in, but off a couple? Or, like my buddies,... 180* off, which caused it to WANT to start, but wouldn't... even with starter fluid, etc., ... wouldn't start. Flipped the dizzy around... VROOM!)..<<< I know, ...but it's worth a mention, right? lol.

Sorry man,....don't mean to add confusion, lol..... just trying to get you thinking back, in detail, to ANYTHING you might have brazed, omitted, forgot, etc., ya know?

RBX

So I went back over my Vac lines and found I had my a/c and a p/s line swapped so I fixed them. But no change in the starting issue. Tomorrow I'm going to order a new gasket for the Egr block off since I think that maybe the issue, honestly I don't think it is though.

S.Skinner

iTrader: (1)

gahh..... hope you get it figured out soon man.

RBX

^*^ I know, so you can do it to yours....hehe

twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

i only know 22re's but i would double check all the metal lines tht had the rubber lines you removed to make sure you removed the right line. and tht the lines dont twist on you and fool you.

also in the 3rd picture you can see 3 spark plug wires then a metal tube with a rubber hose. what is the metal hose next to it?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

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Really doubt it, brudda... I think, personally(I know, it's a guess, lol)... but i really think that something got unhooked/broken free/compromised/contact-backed-out...etc., and it's causing your no-start issue. Did you mess with the "FUEL" system at all? Did you make sure you have fuel? Spark? Dizzy's in right?(<< Don't be mad, just checkin, lol... After all, I'm not sure what all you've done, other than this latest mod party, lol)....

Starter relay? COR? Injector Resistor(not sure if all this is similar on the 3.0 but I've seen it cause your problem in 22re's)... Have you busted out the multi-meter?

RBX

You mean those three large metal pipes? from the left, coolant line, PAIR air feed(deleted) and Large vacuum line for P/S and A/C.
I have double and triple chased all metal lines. Thanks for the tips.

Mark,
I have fuel(pressure is higher then normal), spark, and air. The truck will run if i hold the skinny pedal, and in the upper RPMs very smooth, with great throttle response. I did not touch the fuel rail, and simply plugged up the two(E,R) brass lines on the throttle body. Deleted the PAIR intake from the ...uh...intake..(Larger hose from the airbox).
I know the throttle body flex hose goes bad, this is the second one i put on. I cannot see any noticable leaks, but i think i am going to replace it with some silicon connections to see if that helps.

I appreciate all the help guys, keep them coming.

xxxtreme22r

RB, have you checked for any air leaks between the throttle body and AFM? Sounds like you did though. That sounds alot like what it is since it will run with throttle open. You probably don't have a CEL due to the fact it hasn't gone closed loop yet so don't go by the fact it doesn't have a CEL either.

P.S. What are those two open vacuum lines on the steel rail? EDIT nevermind you already covered that.

Wait a minute, I know the 22re has some sort of issue with the EGR sensor or something would that cover the 3.0 as well and keep it from running?

RBX

^^^ the two lines were to the EGR, they originate from the top of the TB, which i blocked.
I think it may be the intake, and yes i have checked for leaks, and made small adjustments to the band clamps to be sure there were no leaks. But i may get my ISR in order so i can be sure i have a sealed intake system. However, if i listen real close it sounds like a vacuum leak coming from the passenger side of the engine, but it is really hard to tell if that is what i hear, cuz i can't find a leak.

thanks

RBX

The 3.0, doesn't have an EGR temp sensor...well not of this year, later years yes, they were OBD-II, mine is OBD-I. I even took some 10k resistors and shoved them in the connector ends for the PAIR and EGR like suggested to do on the OBD-II 3.slos, and i have no change in symptoms.
I wonder if i get it to operating temperature, will it run on the open loop(or is it closed)? I could take it for a short road trip to see if i can get some codes, although i have gotten it up to operating temp sitting in the driveway.

Isn't there a Toyota Deity i could pray too?

xxxtreme22r

Not sure how long they need to stay warm or how warm they have to get to go into closed loop. Open loop is the cold loop.

You didn't mess with the TPS right?

RBX

No i did not touch the TPS.
As i mentioned before, my fuel pressure gauge is reading 20psi higher then normal, and she smells rich when i get her running. I know that on start up the CSI adds fuel, but i mean when i hold the throttle steady at 1500-1700rpm.
If there is more fuel pressure, that would mean more fuel when the ECM thinks there is only 'X' psi in the rail....running rich in open loop...

xxxtreme22r

Reasons like this is why I am glad I am carb'd. lol.

RBX

^^^Well, this was really a self-induced issue. I can always go back to stock because i made the block-off plates from scraps.
And there is a part of me that is very frustrated, but at the same time i know deep down that i will solve this issue, and learn more about the truck workings in the process...maybe a bit masochistic. It is an exercise to sharpen my knowledge so i can be more self sufficient, and able, especially out in the middle of nowwhere.....well this is what i keep telling myself.
I'll get it, figure it out, it will be something simple(stupid), and i will have learned from it. At least i have another vehicle to drive so i can let this one sit for a few.

RBX

Victory!!!!!!!
Notice this missing bolt, I found only one post online that mentioned it, I didn't realize this goes thru to the interior.
Bolt missing.


Bolt installed with a dab of RTV.

xxxtreme22r

Go to love the simple solutions.

Outsane

congrats!

RBX

Simple, yes, but I played hell finding that solution.