RBx 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
04-20-2011, 08:26 AM
#321
RBX as far as current draw on ACC's. If the say Winch (gonna use an M8000 for example) were to max out at 435 amps then that's your load. Trick is when it's rated in watts. If something is rated at say 480 watts. You take that 480 watt and divide it by your voltage (12V or 120V if it's plugged into a standard outlet) In which case if it's a 12V ACC then your gonna draw 40 amp. If it's a 120V ACC then it's gonna draw 4 amp.
Now lets use some off-road lights.
Say your gonna run 4 x 100 watt fogs. That is 400W. Divide that by 12 volt and those 4 lights are gonna draw 33.33 amp.
Now lets use some off-road lights.
Say your gonna run 4 x 100 watt fogs. That is 400W. Divide that by 12 volt and those 4 lights are gonna draw 33.33 amp.
04-20-2011, 08:36 AM
#322
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oh one more thing and we kinda touched on it last week. This is why voltage drop over a length of cable is so important. As the cable gets longer the voltage drops. My numbers might be a little exaggerated though. So say the Voltage starts at 12 volt. You lengthen that wire using the same gauge and the voltage drops to 11 volt. Now that same 435 amp draw using my above examples is 5220 watt. (435 amp x 12V). Now take that 5220 watt and divide by 11 volt you get 474.55 amp. An increase of current by almost 40 amp which may or may not require another gauge or two higher then what you have.
04-20-2011, 08:37 AM
#323
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Thread Starter
FJLEGEND, wouldn't a combiner pair the two batteries together, so that when one drains(gets olde, won't hold a charge) the other will also drain because the better battery is pushing current to the older battery?
wow 469amps seems like a HUGE circuit-breaker.
Thanks for the help guys
wow 469amps seems like a HUGE circuit-breaker.
Thanks for the help guys
04-20-2011, 09:16 AM
#324
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RBX,
The yandina solution combines the battery banks only when the #2 battery needs a charge and so long as the alternator is providing current andor it the #1 battery is hooked to a charger. This latter point is nice as I can charge all the batteries on my boat by hooking the charger to my main starting battery. The Yandina does the rest. Its really just a big load sensing relay.
Buit what is really cool is the Yandina Troll bridge. It combines my two deep cell house batteries into a 24v circuit while still providing 12v current to any devices connected directly to them. The troll bridge powers by 24v trolling motor. It is slick as teh two deep cells do not have to be isolated just for the 24v.
This is proven technology and Yandina sells direct and through West Marine.
Check out the site.
Kevin
The yandina solution combines the battery banks only when the #2 battery needs a charge and so long as the alternator is providing current andor it the #1 battery is hooked to a charger. This latter point is nice as I can charge all the batteries on my boat by hooking the charger to my main starting battery. The Yandina does the rest. Its really just a big load sensing relay.
Buit what is really cool is the Yandina Troll bridge. It combines my two deep cell house batteries into a 24v circuit while still providing 12v current to any devices connected directly to them. The troll bridge powers by 24v trolling motor. It is slick as teh two deep cells do not have to be isolated just for the 24v.
This is proven technology and Yandina sells direct and through West Marine.
Check out the site.
Kevin
04-20-2011, 09:22 AM
#326
Registered User
Not to mention the 24V solutions for a winch. Much less current load. !!!! For example that M8000 24V winch only takes 235 amps at full load. But it's also twice as expensive. lol.
I have a question though on that 24V setup. How does that affect the CCA of the two batteries, does it double it or doe it stay the same, cut it in half?
I have a question though on that 24V setup. How does that affect the CCA of the two batteries, does it double it or doe it stay the same, cut it in half?
04-20-2011, 09:29 AM
#327
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Thread Starter
^^^Thanks, for the info. So basically what the Yandina is a separator. As for load sensing, i want the batteries to remain isolated from each other unless i combine them to start the vehicle. This is why i want simple(isolator), always isolated, so i won't have to remember that i am draining both batteries down when i have been parked for hours running off stored power.....that reminds me, i need to look for some solar panels.
04-20-2011, 09:32 AM
#328
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To run the troll bridge you need a dedicated 12v battery that nothing else can be hooked to. In my set up I run three batteies (Start, house & troll). The house and troll combine to make 24v for the trolling motor. The 12v devices hooked to the house battery continue to get 12v as teh 24v connection is made in the troll bridge.
You could run the troll bridge with a Start and house battery but when operating the winch you would need to turn off any accessories connected to the house as it will see 24v.
Anytime you increase voltage a motor is going to much more effecient (i.e. draw less amps) but will usually be almost twice as expensive to purchase. Have you ever looked at the cost to operate a 120v window ac unit as compared to a 240v unit. The 240v unit will pay for itself pretty quick.
You could run the troll bridge with a Start and house battery but when operating the winch you would need to turn off any accessories connected to the house as it will see 24v.
Anytime you increase voltage a motor is going to much more effecient (i.e. draw less amps) but will usually be almost twice as expensive to purchase. Have you ever looked at the cost to operate a 120v window ac unit as compared to a 240v unit. The 240v unit will pay for itself pretty quick.
04-22-2011, 06:45 AM
#331
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Thread Starter
No sir, decided to go oil-burner.
My plans for the rig, from the begining, was to go on long distance trips. While it would be uber cool to roll a V8 mill, the fuel efficiency can't match a diesel, and unfortunately, smileage doesn't become practical on 1000mile trips.
I am still very interested in the 1UZ swap, but for now im headed toward a VW TDI...30mpg mixed driving = approx...wait for it.... 500miles between fill-ups. Can we say extended range!
My plans for the rig, from the begining, was to go on long distance trips. While it would be uber cool to roll a V8 mill, the fuel efficiency can't match a diesel, and unfortunately, smileage doesn't become practical on 1000mile trips.
I am still very interested in the 1UZ swap, but for now im headed toward a VW TDI...30mpg mixed driving = approx...wait for it.... 500miles between fill-ups. Can we say extended range!
04-22-2011, 07:16 AM
#333
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Thread Starter
What it comes down to is simplicity. Out of the box i can run 30mpg on Diesel(currently $4.09)....add another tank(with a warmer later if i want) and i can run a supplemental grease system. The versatility with a diesel, for now, is greater then a gasser. Plus the tunability, and user base, for a V-dub TDI is pretty impressive.
Not to mention the HP and torque numbers from a mill that weighs less then the 22RE.
Again, I'm still researching, so nothing is 100% yet.
Not to mention the HP and torque numbers from a mill that weighs less then the 22RE.
Again, I'm still researching, so nothing is 100% yet.
Last edited by RBX; 04-22-2011 at 07:18 AM.
04-22-2011, 07:33 AM
#335
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Thread Starter
Fuel filter, lifter pump, possibly convert injectors(depending on type) maybe injector pump...i'm not 100% on the veggie conversion because there are lots of variables....year of engine, type of injection(TDI or IDI)...etc.
04-26-2011, 11:18 AM
#336
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Thread Starter
MR2 Alternator Installed
Update: without pics...(i will snap a few soon when do the ISR)
Installed the MR2 Alternator Denso P/N:210-0184. Lights do not dim twhen the efan kicks on with the stereo(5channel amp) cranked, and rolling the windows up and down. Added 4awg wire from the alt to the underhood fuse box.
While i had the wire harness out from the core support, i added larger wire for my headlight upgrade later.
I did have to extend the lower bracket for the alternator about an inch, and bend it a bit, NBD.
The other clearance issue is i shaved the head of a bolt down about an 1/8" so i have room to put the stock belt on. So if i have an issue, i can still use a stock belt and alternator.
Other then that, it looks like an alternator, not much to see when it is burried under all that silencer plastic.
Installed the MR2 Alternator Denso P/N:210-0184. Lights do not dim twhen the efan kicks on with the stereo(5channel amp) cranked, and rolling the windows up and down. Added 4awg wire from the alt to the underhood fuse box.
While i had the wire harness out from the core support, i added larger wire for my headlight upgrade later.
I did have to extend the lower bracket for the alternator about an inch, and bend it a bit, NBD.
The other clearance issue is i shaved the head of a bolt down about an 1/8" so i have room to put the stock belt on. So if i have an issue, i can still use a stock belt and alternator.
Other then that, it looks like an alternator, not much to see when it is burried under all that silencer plastic.
05-05-2011, 04:20 PM
#337
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RBX.. you saying diesel is $4.09. It not much more then gasoline nowadays. Dont know what the future holds, but I too would like a diesel motor.
Looking forward to you getting this done.
Looking forward to you getting this done.
05-05-2011, 04:55 PM
#340
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Thread Starter
Chef, thanks, I got big 1awg plans. Isolator, add a deep cycle, relocate the battery near the rear, positive post up front, wire leads for winch, and run quick connects for jumper cables.
Diesel down here I remember being close to mid grade prices but now it's more then premium. I don't understand how it fluctuates price differently then gasoline.
Im looking for a wrecked car now, I'll just keep searching and researching the model TDI I need till I find a deal on a wreck.
Diesel down here I remember being close to mid grade prices but now it's more then premium. I don't understand how it fluctuates price differently then gasoline.
Im looking for a wrecked car now, I'll just keep searching and researching the model TDI I need till I find a deal on a wreck.
