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Totally agree. There's so much to see out there, this land is not one of them for me lol. Alas, I have young kids, I'm bound to go through the chore of Disneyland for them eventually
In temps below freezing in Mammoth, truck started like TADA-VROOM! However, in San Diego weather, I get long cranks again
Test Bypass the Cold-Start injector Timer Switch.
Plastic part of Cold Start injector timer switch rotates with respect to its body. FSM does NOT have STJ-to-GND spec, which is the current path from CSI negative pin (green wire) to Ground.
Below 80°F, I measured STJ to ground at the Green Wire pin of CSI connector. I get anything between 14.5 and 120+ ohms when CSI timer plastic is rotated. Measuring STJ to GROUND at CSI connector green wire pin. (Blk wire gets 12V when starter relay contact closes).
To test if proper low resistance would help me fix the long-crank issue, I replaced CSI switch with 15-ohm resistor. I do not worry about long duty cycle of CSI because my habit is NOT holding in crank position long. Setup Before Heat-Shrink
Will keep you posted.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 04-09-2021 at 02:24 PM.
lol. i worked out of clayton lake back in 1989. drove the realty road a lot. one of our camps was on either the second or third lake, but our primary jobsite camp was west of clayton lake.
lol. i worked out of clayton lake back in 1989. drove the realty road a lot. one of our camps was on either the second or third lake, but our primary jobsite camp was west of clayton lake.
oh you know that area well! No wounder you knew just what I was talking about. That trip was a dry dusty one.
Ray, you gotta get the 4runner out there. It's made for them roads😉
While there we made a side trip to Alstrom Point that overlooks Gunsight Bay and Gunsight Butte on Lake Powell. It is an approx 1.5-hour drive on dirt, rough road and slick rock from Big Water, Utah. High- ground clearance vehicle is required, 4WD is ideal. My friend's 2WD Lexus RX350 made it with minor scratches with good spotting
Camp at Lone Rock Overview BLM, outside Kanab, Utah before driving to Alstrom Point. At Gatekeeper on the way to Alstrom Point, Utah... Diff locked Land Cruiser 100 handled the heavily-rutted off-camber section on left. 4Runner could not get traction because 2 wheels alternately get air. Right side is piece of cake for 4Runner with plenty of ground clearance. My friend's 2WD Lexus RX 350 did it, too, although with very little clearance. Overlooking Gunsight Butte from Alstrom Point. Photo at Long Canyon BLM, outside Canyonlands, Utah from an earlier trip.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-14-2021 at 09:31 PM.
Sharing a little trick I use to create light-duty tie-in points for storage/organization. The more I optimize /utiilize nternal space, the less gear or parts I have to buy to create storage space and the less I have installed outside the truck.
I melt holes in folded webbing to match mounting holes of existing parts like panic handle and visor brackets, re-inforce around it with superglue and installing parts as shown:
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-12-2021 at 09:19 PM.
Wanna make sure I have spare fuel pump handy, in case original fails without warning, so I got the Denso OEM FP and seal (again, in case old seal is damaged). I'm getting healthy fuel pressure as indicated by pressure gage piggy-backed on my CSI, so I'll not fix what's not broken. I have the new one well-sealed and stashed in truck body cavity that I have retrofitted for storage.
On the other hand, I may install new one to make sure it is working while under warranty, empty, clean and seal old one and keep it in truck body cavity/storage as back-up.
Photo shows basic/essential tools needed for replacement. Odd that my crow's foot wrench set does not have a 19-mm one. Anyway, original nut is in excellent condition and I wetted parts with PB Blaster to aid in loosening if and when needed.
BOUGHT FROM AMAZON
Tools Needed, IF 4Runner. I wetted fittings and screws with PB Blaster to facilitate loosening when needed.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-18-2021 at 02:59 PM.
Wanna make sure I have spare fuel pump handy, in case original fails without warning, so I got the Denso OEM FP and seal (again, in case old seal is damaged). I'm getting healthy fuel pressure as indicated by pressure gage piggy-backed on my CSI, so I'll not fix what's not broken. I have the new one well-sealed and stashed in truck body cavity that I have retrofitted for storage.
On the other hand, I may install new one to make sure it is working while under warranty, empty, clean and seal old one and keep it in truck body cavity/storage as back-up.
Photo shows basic/essential tools needed for replacement. Odd that my crow's foot wrench set does not have a 19-mm one. Anyway, original nut is in excellent condition and I wetted parts with PB Blaster to aid in loosening if and when needed.
FORGOT WHERE I BOUGHT FROM BUT compare NAPA, Toyota Parts Deal, McGeorge Toyota, Lakeland Toyota online.
Tools Needed, IF 4Runner. I wetted fittings and screws with PB Blaster to facilitate loosening when needed.
A very timely post for me, thanks. I probably need to do a fuel pump. Interesting that McGeorge Toyota here in Richmond VA has picked up a discount Toyota parts presence. I needed a door spring last week for my 2008 4Runner and they had it in stock. I picked it up for $5.66 with tax, cheaper than anywhere else. I just received a 2021 Tacoma from them that I had to order. They sold it at list price. I checked every Toyota dealer in the state. A kid rear ended my 2016 and insurance gave me $3500 over what I paid in 2016. I'm out of pocket $4500 for a new Sport 4DSB which I will drive forever or until another kid drops his phone at high speeds.
03-26-2021, 10:00 AM
