When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The Truck Shop Miramar did a lousy job when I paid it to rebuild my engine in 2013. There was leak around the main seal OR where oil pump plate attaches to block after the rebuild. It supposedly fixed the leak but it came back. I found a bolt on oil pump stripped / too short so I replaced it with longer one. There is still some oil seepage. To keep oil from splashing on my newly-installed Denso Rebuilt in the U.S.A. alternator from NAPA, I made a splash shield. I made it by trimming steel electronics chassis to fit.
I bought black Dow 995 Silicone to fill gap around the windshield. Extra protection for paint and urethane adhesive used to adhere glass, additional seal, would not trap moisture like any trim and would be smoother than any trim so hopefully a tiny less wind noise. Instead of acetic acid, it uses Stearic Acid which I gather is used to prevent further rust if any (Google here).
For sealing the gutter seam, Try to find flowable seam sealer or one with very thin applicator tip. I bought AC Delco seam sealer but it is hard to get it into the A-pillar gutter on driver side, is very messy (masked surrounding area and I used my backpacking white gas and and rag to quickly wipe down stains). Where I was able to apply on passenger side, it is taking forever to cure.
An option I am thinking of is:
1) Prime and paint inside gutter as usual,
2) Properly mask, then Flow flowable silicone into any crevices,
3) While flowable silicone is tacky, FILL the gutter with Dow 995. The gutter is pointless, and only means trouble because it causes rust. The roof gutter construction is also poor. Worn out seam seal caused leak into my cabin.
I do not see any problem with newer vehicles without it. In fact Arlindsay (AlexmandVideos on Youtube) removed his A=pillar rain gutter.
great info! I just finished doing the rain gutters like this. I tried unsuccessfully to replace the windshield seal with a gasket. Lots of swearing and broke the cracked windshield more. Ether the windshield is slightly too big or the gasket doesn't have a deep enough channel for the glass , it just would not go in. I had a glass installer try today but he couldn't even get the gasket to stay on the top of the glass long enough to get the rope on. I just said glue the new windshild in I'm done with the gasket . So I'm gunna do the same with the edges like you did with filling the gap.
Tnx! ... I just said glue the new windshild in I'm done with the gasket . So I'm gunna do the same with the edges like you did with filling the gap.
Yeah, simple, reliable and as when done cleanly - as custom a trim as anyone could make it. Just make sure you squeegee it as soon as you dispense silicone in gap, before it forms a skin. I used plastic cap of diameter that would give the smoothest slope between glass and body metal surrounding the windshield. I updated my procedure on "Eliminating Chrome Thread" here.
"FALL" Proofing the Cowl.
I hate all those leaves falling int the cowl. Some have blocked the cowl grill but I want my fresh air vent so I just installed gutter guard / mesh, that I just happen to have under it.
There are some high spots when stock cowl screens are installed so I left those out. The coarse mesh of this gutter mesh would still allow pine needles, etc, so as soon as I get the chance, I'll replace with Amerimax brand gutter screen with finer mesh. I think that will sandwich between cowl and stock cowl screen better.
AMERIMAX GUTTER FILTER / SCREEN (Home Depot / Lowe's)
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 10-13-2020 at 09:21 PM.
Weekend camping trip with friends in the Anza Borrego Desert... Temps aren't too bad anymore. First Light Uphill of our campsite... Looks almost as good as mall parking for overly-outfitted poseur trucks Tequila Sunrise.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 10-23-2020 at 12:21 AM.
Weekend camping trip with friends in the Anza Borrego Desert... Temps aren't too bad anymore. First Light Uphill of our campsite... Looks almost as good as mall parking for overly-outfitted poseur trucks Tequila Sunrise.
hey, did you see the mars rover curiosity anywhere around there 😂 seriously though it looks like one of them shots from the mars rovers. Beautiful photos!
Camp outside Canyonlands... Almost as pretty as a mall-crawler parked at Nordstrom.
Camped last night at BLM uphill and west of Mendon, near Mendon Peak...
This is at better camp spot than we had last night, just half mile uphill.
In Logan, UT for breakfast. Heading to soak at Crystal Hot Springs, Camp near Salt Lake City tonight, then heading to Bryce tomorrow.
Honk if you're near.
Paid Hump and his 84 a visit.
Beautifully Raptor-lined, Marty McFly would be jealous.
Camp outside Canyonlands... Almost as pretty as a mall-crawler parked at Nordstrom.
Camped last night at BLM uphill and west of Mendon, near Mendon Peak...
This is at better camp spot than we had last night, just half mile uphill.
In Logan, UT for breakfast. Heading to soak at Crystal Hot Springs, Camp near Salt Lake City tonight, then heading to Bryce tomorrow.
Honk if you're near.
Sucks losing small items when camping in the back. I disposed of old luggage and kept the divider. I had also replaced hidden fasteners on my body panels with simple screws so...
It flattens and is out of the way when seat backrest is up...
Real Portable, Real off-grid Shower:
We say we want to go off-the-grid, and want things portable so why rely on electricity and/or have it plugged into the vehicle?
We paddle, surf, climb, run, carry heavy packs, etc, so why couldn't we pump by hand?
I used 2-gallon Home Depot garden sprayer, and extended with Danco sink sprayer with hose, available at hardware stores or Amazon.
Pleasant surprise, the sprayhead snaps into the pump handle when done!
#leanandgreen #EssentialistMimimalist #mcgyverism
The Truck Shop Miramar did a lousy job when I paid it to rebuild my engine in 2013. There was leak around the main seal OR where oil pump plate attaches to block after the rebuild. It supposedly fixed the leak but it came back. I found a bolt on oil filter stripped / too short so I replaced it with longer one. There is still some oil seepage. To keep oil from splashing on my newly-installed Denso Rebuilt in the U.S.A. alternator from NAPA, I made a splash shield. I made it by trimming steel electronics chassis to fit.
nice work, ray. but why not just replace the front main seal or the oil pump body o-ring? fwiw, the entire job takes about 2 hours start to finish, and can be done in the driveway. i just did it last week (when the temperature was 22*F).
procedure. remove front skid plate/engine cover using 12mm socket. use 19mm socket and bar to loosen the crank bolt - helps to put the 4runner in 5th gear and apply parking brakes. remove the lower fan shroud cover - the small piece. up above, remove the air intake tube. using a 19mm wrench, loosen the idler pulley nut for the power steering belt (not the power steering pump nut). using a 12mm socket, loosen the idler tension, and remove the PS belt. using a 14mm socket, loosen the AC idler pulley nut, and use the 12mm socket to loosen the tension on it. remove the AC belt. use a 12mm wrench to loosen the alternator upper bolt, push the alt towards the block, and remove the belt.
now remove the crank bolt, and gently tug the crank pulley assembly away from crank. using a 12mm socket, remove the 5 bolts holding the oil pump to the timing cover. place a catch tray/bucket below. use a rubber mallet/hammer to gently tap the oil pump to loosen it, and gently pull it away from timing cover - some oil will now drip out, but not a whole lot. leave the splined gear on the crankshaft end. pry out the old pump o-ring from the groove, and install a new o-ring in its place - make sure the new o-ring is completely seated in the groove.
on the workbench, use a medium screwdriver to gently lever the main seal outward from the oil pump body. to install the new main seal, either use a large socket (2") and tap with a small hammer, or use a small rubber hammer and gently tap in an alternating cross pattern to seat the new seal in the pump housing. lubricate the lip of the new seal with oil, and gently slide the pump back into place, being certain the pump housing o-ring is still in the groove. install the 5 pump housing bolts, and use thread sealer only on the uppermost bolt - the one below the timing mark plate. now install the crank pulley - it will only install one way, as the keyway and key make any other orientation impossilble.
continue to reassemble in the reverse order from disassembly.
no more leak. and takes about as much time as customizing the spatter shield and installing it.
no coolant draining, no radiator removal, no fan removal, no fan shroud removal. no oil pan removal. i don't even disconnect the battery.
... but why not just replace the front main seal or the oil pump body o-ring? ....
COOL! Merry Christmas and Thanks, Wally. I think I'll do that, too, soon.
Where did you source your o-ring and seal?
I may drop the radiator, because I want to have more room around to work on.
i had several of each of the main seal and o-ring on hand. i sourced some from rockauto, some from yotashop, and some from the machine shop that worked on my other engine. i still have 2 more main seals and 3 o-rings in my parts stash. i have an unused oil pump, and another used one, too.
you really don’t need to drop the radiator or remove the fan shroud or fan.
Something to remember: After a long time, the main seal wears a groove on the crankshaft. This will then leak oil, even with a brand new main seal. There are seals made for these trucks, though, that have the part of the seal that rides on the drive shaft slightly repositioned. This puts the seal off the groove worn into the crankshaft, allowing it to make a good seal again.
Just something to look out for. If you have a relatively deep groove worn on the crankshaft, consider getting the modified seal. They press right in, just like the originals do, so that's no problem.
Something to remember: After a long time, the main seal wears a groove on the crankshaft. This will then leak oil, even with a brand new main seal. There are seals made for these trucks, though, that have the part of the seal that rides on the drive shaft slightly repositioned. This puts the seal off the groove worn into the crankshaft, allowing it to make a good seal again.
Just something to look out for. If you have a relatively deep groove worn on the crankshaft, consider getting the modified seal. They press right in, just like the originals do, so that's no problem.
Pat☺
actually, it doesn't [wear a groove on the crankshaft]. the groove gets worn on the machined surface of the crank pulley. the crank pulley slides over the end of the crankshaft, into the oil pump (and thus the seal). for the rear main seal, it does wear into the crank, but not the front main seal.
09-13-2020, 01:09 PM
