i'll echo terry's comment. i fixed the starter wiring flaw over a year ago, with no issues. works great.

same with the headlight switch. added the H4 conversion harness and cleaned the switch's inner contacts. excellent function.

wally

 

LOL! That's what I thought

Great location! I have a dlx with no cubby but I'm starting to customize and optimize use of the hollow inside the body panels now. Will relocate the rear control switches accordingly. Deck light switch will be relocated within arms reach even with tailgate up.

Most welcome, Terry! Glad it helped. I;m helping out another fellow member who has first-gen auto meaning no starter relay. He'd need to add one.

 

Why I do Not Trust Others Working on my Vehicle....
Yesterday, our friend picked us up from the bus terminal. On the way to her place we heard a rhythmic clunking sound emanating from the driver's side wheel well / transmission. It was audible only when one eases up on the gas pedal.; stopped when accelerating.
I inspected the suspension, axle and CV joint/boot rotation and brake drag. I even shook the wheels while jacked up. No finding.
Finally today, on our way to Costco, we noticed that the sound was finally audible even during acceleration. Stopping at Costo, we found this. I was able to loosen all lug nuts with my bare hands. WTF?
I think the lug nuts were tight enough that during earlier inspection checking with my bare hands did not loosen them, but further driving finally did.
Even if you trust your mechanic, FREAKING VERIFY that he did the job well.

To make matters worse, IF my friend brought the vehicle to the dealership, the mechanic would most likely NOT ADMIT the that the mech screwed up, and would have covered up the real problem by telling my friend the vehicle had a bad CV joint - which would cost $500 to $800 to fix.


.

 

^^^Yep, I had that happen on an old 73' Chevy Blazer I had years ago. I had new aluminum wheels and 35" tires mounted.I drove around and ran some errands. Later the next day I noticed a noise (sounded like someone was hitting my tire with a stick). I pulled over and looked the rig over, couldn't find anything and proceeded to drive the rest of the way home (couple miles away). As I pulled into my gravel driveway the front end skidded and the steering felt funny. I got out and found that my passenger front wheel had lost all 6 lugnuts and the wheel had started to come off and had slid out onto the manual locking hub! It damaged the wheel, the threaded studs actually egg shaped the holes from the lugnuts not being tightened. The tire shop blamed me for not re-torqueing the lugnuts after 100 miles even though I'm positive that I didn't put nearly that many miles on it. I'm pretty sure that they put them on finger tight and forgot to torque them since the other 3 were fine when I checked them. Needless to say I always double check tire shops work and make sure the lugs are properly torqued every since!

 

Absolutely!

 

Hi Rad,

I have an 89 4runner that seems to have the relay power issue. I measure 3.4 ohms of resistance between the two black wires, but I cannot seem to read 12v off of the black wire thats diagonoly accross from the thin black and red one. I tried this with the key in off, acc, on. Battery is strong, and wacking the starter doesnt help the situation. This issue, the single loud click seems to occur every one in 5 starts.

Am I doing something wrong in regards to not reading 12v, or can the truck still start with that line dead?

 

Ok I went back a single page and saw you just answered this question. So if I have no 12v on yhe thick black accross from thin red striped, I need to go ahead and wire that thick black dirrectly to battery or into fuse box.

Okay, here goes nothing.

 

Howdy!
BUT when you put IGN switch in START position you get 12volts, correct? That is because as I explained in the write-up, the way it is wired out of the factory (wrong), that thick black wire diagonally across the thin red-striped one will only have 12V when IGN is in START position, because it takes power from the ign switch ST1 contact.
Yes, you should wire that directly to a fuse right off the battery positive.

 

I understand. So running that black wire directly to the battery removes the chance that the ignition switch is sending low voltage. So if the problem.persists I can rule out the ignition switch?

 

Exactly.

As general rules:
1) IF starter relay clicks but starter solenoid does not, that is a good indication of this problem.

2) IF starter relay clicks and starter solenoid also clicks BUT FAINTLY, that is another indication of the problem.

3) IF starter relay clicks and starter solenoid also clicks ENERGETICALLY but there is no crank, that is indication of bad solenoid contacts.

4) IF C.O.R. (behind glove compartment) clicks but starter relay does not click or relay clicks but faintly, that is indication that ignition switch contact ST1 or its wiring may be bad.

In all above cases, always check battery condition and connections.

 

Thank you.

I had checked the battery, cleaned all grounds, cleaned all positive terminals related to the starter (battery post and connections, starter connection).

I rerouted the 12v constant to the battery as intructed, but I guess I need a new starter.

Its strange, sometimes I just get a strong click from relay and selonoid (same time at start), and other times the starter will give me one weak single crank, as if my battery was dying, and othertimes it starts the motor in half a second like a champ.

I get 12.5 volts at the battery, and 10 to 11 volts during crank load, altenator does its job at 14.4. I guess its starter time unless this battery is somehow the culprit but the numbers seems healthy.

 

Most welcome.
OK, it must be the solenoid contacts now.
The rewire, aside from helping save the ign switch contacts will also help extend the life of the solenoid contacts, because this time the solenoid will always actuate energetically, closing its contacts tighter, making contact resistance lower and therefore, creating less heat in the contact.
Best wishes.

 

Hi folks,
Do you know of an illustrated / video guide to replacing the electrical part of the ignition switch on the first-gen 4Runner?

Today, after coming back to my truck from a store, I started it and heard a sound like starter keeps on cranking even after ignition switch was released (ST1 contact open). I disconnected starter relay and measured control input to positive side of the coil (on the connecter on harness). I measured steady 12V, when it should be zero because ignition switch/key is out of "Start" position (ST1 contact open).

Here's where I'm getting 12Volts even when ignition switch is released...


I already have a new Beck-Arnley ignition switch assembly so I'll replace the original ignition switch soon.

.

 

I PMd you a link. I remove the steering column cover. If you want to get the electrical part of the switch it is held on with jewelers screws and I think you have to disconnect the black connector down at the bottom of the column. I plan on being out in the shop later today and try and get some pictures if you need me to.
Copied...
you turn the key to the Accessory Position and push in on the silver button and pull assembly out. I use a nail or something similar to push the button in.


Since your key wont turn, I would try a several other keys as a last chance effort, if that doesn't work, my suggestion is to drill out the key slot to get it to let the tab that engages the slot inside the steering column to turn. You have to get it to turn to remove the key assembly.

Beckley Arnlay seems to come to mind for a key set off of ebay or the parts store could get you an assembly I think. This is how I would do it if it was up to me. I have heard of this happening and it does take a tow truck to get it home. Others might have a better way. Never had it happen to me but it did to a friend of mine on his 94.

Here is the key cylinder upside down showing the tab (by my thumb) that engages the slot inside the column.
[/QUOTE

 

My laptop is acting up so had to copy that post from a question on a 94 truck but the picture is from our generation of trucks.

 

Awesome! Thanks, Terry. Key is actually not mechanically stuck. Just the ST1 contact getting stuck intermittently.
Will start working in it now (As soon as I find that replacement electrical module).

 

To the right of my thumb in the bottom picture, you can just make out the white square box with the two jewelers screws I have seen it crack in between the two screws and seems like I did change one out on a truck that kept getting a stuck starter. In bottom picture again, I think you can see where the black cable runs down and is easily disconnected. I get mine from the bone yard.

If you find a fix for the automatic trucks without the starter relay, could you post that up? I ran into that recently. I am thinking automatics and some 85 trucks did not come with the starter relay. I meant to ask that question when you posted it when you were helping a friend.

 

Thanks again, Terry.
This concise post simplifies the fix but covers earlier models without the starter relay as well as those with starter relays but are wired wrong. It also lists which models have and do not have the starter relays.

 

Beware the Beck-Arnley Ignition Switch PN 201-1410

Brand-new part fell apart during installation. As I was inserting into its place, the white cap popped out of the housing and the contacts, springs, and a ball bearing flew all over the place.

The white plastic cap pops into place. It may have been designed well, but I believe the assembly process was poorly controlled. Apparently the assembly was not pressed together properly such that the hooks did not engage completely.

I could have re-assembled it but without any documentation, I would not know if I'm missing any parts. I called Beck-Arnley and explained what happened but was told that because I did not buy it from its distributor, it would not cover the part under any warranty.

I bought the part in 2012 thinking it would solve my intermittent click -no-crank issue but found out the real cause of my click-only but no-crank before I had the chance to install the switch. It sat in storage for a few years.



LESSON LEARNT: For parts essential to safe and effective operation of the vehicle, go OEM!

BEST BET, BEST PRICE OEM IS FROM TOYOTAPARTS DEAL:
I ordered Toyota Part No. 8445035060 (SWITCH ASSY, IGNITION OR STARTER) from www.toyotapartsdeal.com. It has the best deal among the three online stores I checked today, and much less expensive than the $135 dealer price.

 

Hi guys,
My truck is rather loud at freeway speeds. I'm not sure if it's from the Goodyear Duratracs or from something else. My cousin who's familiar with trucks says it could be axle bearings starting to go bad.
We can still hold a conversation without yelling at each other but noise is not comfortable and more than other and more modern vehicles. I have no classic vehicles to compare with.
1) Are there fellow members with stock 1986-1988 4Runners with 22R-E in Inland Empire (I'm in Moreno Valley) whom I could meet and compare how vehicles sound?
2) Fellow members sporting Duratracs, how loud are yours?

IF I really need to replace axle bearings or anything, what are your trusted / recommended shops within half-hour drive from Mo Val?

Mark, Richard, Grego, we should have a get-together again one of these days.

TIA and regards,
Ray