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Background:
Finally replaced my starter. About 2 years ago, I fixed the faulty wiring (by poor Toyota design as explained here) and got rid of the intermittent starting issue.
Recently, I had intermittent issue again, but this time problem must be the caused by bad solenoid contacts. When I get the chance, I will perform autopsy on old starter to confirm and update this thread.
Earlier, RustBucket mentioned that the 1.4-kW one for the auto transmission (part 280-0131) will plug-and-play on the 22R-E with manual transmission. Furthermore, Toyota Parts Zone does not carry the 1.0-kW starter anymore so, yes, I bought the REMAN STARTER 1.4KW Part Number 28100-35060-84. (Ideally I could simply take out starter, replace the solenoid contacts, and re-install. However, I would not know whether existing starter is O.E.M., or after-market, or 1.0-kW, or 1.4-kW version, and what type contacts to buy, etc. until I removed and inspected the starter so that would mean more down-time for me.)
Replacement Procedure:
Disconnect Positive Battery Connector and ensure there is absolutely no possibility of it moving and touching the positive battery post.
Remove Right-front wheel for easy access, observing all necessary safety precautions- jack stand, proper chock, emergency brake on, Wheel under front axle for added safety.
Remove access panel
Close-up of work area.
This is the battery positive-to-starter cable.
Disconnect positive battery cable from main positive screw-on terminal of starter.
Here's the starter solenoid coil positive terminal.
Disconnect starter solenoid coil positive terminal; Also the oil pressure sender for more room?
To clearly show how starter is mounted here is picture with starter removed ....
Top is secured with a nut, bottom is secured with a bolt. Bolt diameter is 10mm. Wrench size is 14mm.
Many say that it is tricky to remove and replace the starter, but I found both top and bottom bolts/nuts are easily accessible with a combination of:
Shallow 14mm socket,
6-inch extension and
ratchet or torque wrench
Room for wrench on top mounting nut:
Room for wrench on bottom mounting bolt:
Remove starter and replace in reverse order. The 1.0-kW or 1.4-kW replacement starter is absolutely plug-and-play; absolutely no complications. However,R&R would go smoother if you gathered the following necessary specs before hand (and not get your manual and computer messy like I did when doing it in the middle of the procedure-LOL!)
Mounting Bolt Torque: I used 35 foot-pounds. I'm still verifying. FSM appendix B-2 (standard bolt torque specs) does not show this Bolt Class mark that is on the mounting bolt.
Positive terminal (Copper) nut torque: Still unknown. I just "felt" mine.
Here's standard bolts specs from FSM:
Note that it does not include class mark on my mounting bolts.
Here are torque specs for 10-mm bolt.
Based on above, would you think that my mounting bolts are 8T. Any thoughts? For now, I just torqued them to 35 foot-pounds to be safe.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 04-09-2016 at 09:09 PM.
That one is the Oil Pressure Sending Unit that you were holding in the above picture. Great write up on the starter replacement. I was unable to find in Haynes or FSM the torque and like the diagram that you posted is where I got 50 foot pounds. Those bolts take a good bit of tightening.
I too like to do an autopsy on parts when possible. Always kind of interesting to see what caused a failure and sometimes you know what to do to prevent it in the future.
I'm still trying to figure out the Class mark on my mounting bolt.
Do 4 lines mean class 8T bolt?
If it does, what should torque for class 8T hexagon flange bolt be?
That is the way I read it but I too have not completely figured it out. So not sure if I am corret on that.
I can look at mine tonight when I get to work and will post what mine does. I know it does spin freely. If you ever have a fan clutch to go bad, it will stay locked and then you really hear a lot of wind noise under the hood as the enigne speed goes up. That was my experience.
To make it easy to find and share with fellow members... posting it here...
Rear Window/Wiper Relay is behind panel near driver side seatbealt mechanism here:
Relevant wiring runs behind panel near left side of rollbar here:
Top Off Switch is also there.
Connector for Rear Window & Wiper Relay here:
FUSE AND CIRCUIT BREAKER
Up-Down pins to use so you would not need ignition to be on are pins 11 & 12
Check against schematic here:
Pin Numbering here:
How backdoor window control switch (aka key switch) works:
Wire to pin 11 (light blue-white stripe) when connected to ground (via terminal 3 of top-off switch) will lower window.
Wire to pin 12 (lt blue-blk stripe) when connected to ground (via terminal 3 of top-off switch) will raise window.
(To test relay function, touching directly to chassis ground will work regardless of state of top off switch)
Console switch Operation:
Connecting wire going to pin 4 (Green with yel stripe) to ground (via window Down button, door lock button, top-off switch, and rear door clock switch) will lower window,
Connecting Pin5 to ground (Red yellow stripe) in same manner as above will raise it.
To test relay function (see schematic), assuming it has power, bypass up/down switch, door lock switch, top-off switch, and rear door lock detect switch:
Jump one of the pins above at a time, directly to ground and see if relay produces proper out voltage and polarity at pins 1 & 3
To eliminate doubt on rear wiper retraction detect switch ("out-of-park") fault, disconnect the whole rear wiper assembly and see if rear window works.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-16-2020 at 11:44 PM.
My fan seems to spin freely at all times. Not sure when it actually engages. I have had them to lock up and then you can really hear it make noise. That is about the only time I have ever replaced a fan.
I will be doing your Starting Circuit Upgrade on Mistys Runner. I got the click/no start on it the other day. I have gone thru her starting circuit completely with new cables, battery, starter, and relay and it did it fairly recently. I still have not had any problems on my truck with your upgrade.
I am glad you are showing how to test the relay. Something else that is acting up on her truck. Sometimes the back glass works and sometimes not. I am thinking of just buying a new switch from Toyota for it and then see how the relay is working with your test.
I will be doing your Starting Circuit Upgrade on Mistys Runner. I got the click/no start on it the other day. I have gone thru her starting circuit completely with new cables, battery, starter, and relay and it did it fairly recently. I still have not had any problems on my truck with your upgrade.
Yeah, it's a proven Toyota mess-up
1) Not having a starter relay on 85 and earlier, AND
2) Adding but incorrectly wiring that starter relay on mid-1986 to 1988 22RE's
I am glad you are showing how to test the relay. Something else that is acting up on her truck. Sometimes the back glass works and sometimes not. I am thinking of just buying a new switch from Toyota for it and then see how the relay is working with your test.
I would not buy anything, yet. I suggest you inspect your wires, especially the flex where loom goes from body to tailgate. Also narrow it down. Does problem happen:
1) For UP, or down only or both?
2) With console switch only?
3) With tailgate key switch only?
4) With both?
5) Then do the simple test above by simply jumping each up-down terminal to ground.
Then we'll go from there.
BTW,
Would you happen to have pics with headliner removed showing where I could run wire from A-pillar, along top of passenger door, to top of Fiberglas cap?
I'm considering replacing rod antenna with
Happy veterans day to you. I remember when you guys hit that mine. I was still in A school. I went to the Okinawa LPH3. I would of stayed in if they had not decommissioned that ship. I actually liked the gator navy. Still miss it at times.
I should be able to get on my home computer and see if I can find some pics with the headliner removed when I get off of work. I tap into the corner of the windshield area to add the mirror/domelight. There is no wires on the passenger side. Everything is run on the drivers side and only if you have the factory map light is there anything that runs from the A pillar to the mirror. If you don't have a map light, it wont have any wire at the mirror. I just run some along the front trim. I will see what I can find when I get home.
Whip antenna gets in the way of loading long cargo on roof.
I'd like to install a hidden antenna. Passive antenna could be sandwiched between Fiberglas roof of cap and foam Headliner.
Originally Posted by Terrys87
Happy veterans day to you. I remember when you guys hit that mine. I was still in A school. I went to the Okinawa LPH3. I would of stayed in if they had not decommissioned that ship. I actually liked the gator navy. Still miss it at times.
I should be able to get on my home computer and see if I can find some pics with the headliner removed when I get off of work. I tap into the corner of the windshield area to add the mirror/domelight. There is no wires on the passenger side. Everything is run on the drivers side and only if you have the factory map light is there anything that runs from the A pillar to the mirror. If you don't have a map light, it wont have any wire at the mirror. I just run some along the front trim. I will see what I can find when I get home.
Tnx a lot, Terry. Just need to see where I cud run s fish tape to run antenna wire between A-pillar and Fiberglas cap.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-17-2014 at 01:53 PM.
I have some pictures and have been looking for them and haven't found them just yet. I am going to update my threads and hopefully will find the pictures in one of them.
The A pillar trim, take a flat blade screw driver and at the top, there is a tab. Get near it and twist the screw driver and pop the top tab out. Then go half way down and do the same thing to get the middle tab out. Once you get the top and center tab out, the very bottom tab, you lift the trim up less then a half inch and pull the trim toward the drivers side.
Once you have that off, you can take the trim that goes all the way around the door that covers the pinch weld. Starting at the kick panel, just pull it off all the way to the B pillar. Once you get the pinch seal off, you can see the edge of the headliner and just work it off of the pinch weld. Since you will be doing the wiring within an hour or so, it will reinstall easily.
I haven't had the headliner out of a runner but think it would be the same to access the dome light. You will need to remove the top or slide it back a foot or so to give you room to work in the rear of the cab to access the domelight area.
Already got a fish-tape from harbor freight. I'll just feel for a hole near the dome light then probe with fish tape until I get to the top of A-Pillar. Would be easy-going from there. Lots of room. I checked by running a 3/8-inch diameter rope down the A-pillar. Other end reached the ECU.
I actually already removed my A-pillar trims. Tabs where clips attached to already broke. Not a priority, but someday I'll replace them with pieces that screw in (plastic expansion nut and sheet metal screw combination), instead of using those hidden clips.
10-14-2014 | 10:42 AM
hidden one like this" />
