Dang that took you a while to do huh lol

Well u shouldn't be talking my power windows too me forever to complete lol

It looks good Ray. Good job. Now u can burn the other ones and never have memory of the chips and cracks those other ones had. Hahaa

 

Looks great, Ray!

 

Hahahha! well to his defense, the driver side was the one initially given to him when we met up at Mark's place about a year ago. This one is the passenger side, so he's only had it for about 4-5 months!

 

Hey Ray, you have family over in that Typhoon going on in the P.I's?? My wife has some distant relatives that they haven't been able to get a hold of.

I also have some "pocket" size brown interior 4runner stuff that I've collected on some trips to the yards during that past few months. Whenever we meet up again you can have them as spares. Also, are you looking for the double deck center console for your 4runner? you got that lame looking one! I'll keep my eye out for one if you want one.

 

Thanks, guys!

Re: Slow... LOL!
Was busy with engine rebuild, etc.

Thanks, Grego. I hope your wife's family are OK or recovering quickly. That typhoon is way off scale. It should have been category 7, but we only have up to cat 5!


Fortunately for my family, we live on southern end of Panay Island, so no major flooding and only property damage.

Affected place is on upper edge of Panay Island.


Latest, most significant news I have to date (71 dead) is this

Classmates and friends are sending help.

Yes, we definitely should meet up over the holidays. Re: Console, I like it minimal- no arm rest and nothing for my elbows to run into when driving, but thanks!

 

No wrenching this week, but had usual after-hours hike with hardy office mates. Tonight it's to top of Bernardo Mountain, Escondido, CA where we enjoyed Stone's Double Bastard. Steam from stills where more is being brewed @334 degrees NNW

 

So much help full info! Thanks

 

Thanks and welcome, Sir!

 

I had been hearing metallic-sounding creaks around the front suspension when rolling over the tiniest dip and bumps on the road at idle in 2nd gear.
My idler arm had obvious play so I replaced that. Creaking remained.
Finally I had a friend push bumper down and release repeatedly as I felt/listened to the vibration. I localized it to the front shocks. No sound or vibration from control arms as I earlier suspected, too.

Problems Uncovered:

1. One of the old shocks is totally shut. I compressed them both and left them aside. After about 30 minutes, they looked like below.
2. Old shocks do not have effective mechanism to center the stem within the mounting hole. In only has a "sacrificial" centering washer which designer probably hoped would keep bushings centered around the hole and in turn keep the stem from contacting opening. Obviously, that failed. See pictures of deformed mounting hole and shock stem where the two made contact and also caused the creaking sound I had been hearing.

Selecting Replacement Shocks:Installation:

 

Great job, ray! I would have to look back through my information including Photobucket and other stuff... Somewhere, I have the exact recommended measurements for full extension and compression measurements.... Totally guessing, otherwise.....

Over time, namely 27 years, torsion bars and all types of other things can vary and wind up with different necessities for operating at close to exact tension on both sides. You can jack up the truck by the arms and still never even come close to hitting a bump stop... Even if the torsion bars have not been torqued on.... Having seen your truck in person, I would be guessing but I tend to lean towards they have not been touched. You're just a little bit raked because of the zuk mod, right. If you are level, it might mean they are a little bit torqued... However, I remember you saying that your leaf springs were shot... Sometimes they are more shot than others, so that may not be as telling either. Not forgetting to mention the fact that I believe you said you cut the zuk springs? If so, then even harder to tell.

I'm pretty sure there is a section in the factory service manual that explains how to get a replacement torsion bar back to stock recommendations. When I installed my ball joint spacers I relaxed the torsion bars until the car bounced like a low rider up front... Then I tightened it until it rose a half inch. That meant there was enough tension to keep it from being bouncy but little enough to where it was a bit of a softer ride compare to if you leave them where they are and install the balls hurt spacers... After installing them it gets a little tighter up front.

 

Thanks, Mark. I searched the FSM hard but could not find any practical method of determining stock suspension height for front suspension with truck unloaded. Rear should be easy- frame to top of leaf pack. Example below:

 

Glad to hear your family is ok in that part of the world. Hope things get back to normal for them and things work out. That was a terrible storm.

Shocks are going to make a big difference in the ride. Most still have the orginal black factory shocks on them.

I responded to your PM about the Chevy truck and was cleaning out my PM box and it showed it never sent. I had a 49 GMC when I was kid and it was a great truck. Really simple and easy to work on. Wish I still had it. I am always going to be restoring something and one day I might just have to get an old truck like that. I enjoy seeing the oldies on the road. Doesnt matter which make or model it is. I like seeing the work that some put into them and have a fair idea of what it takes and what they have done. Great truck you posted.

 

Thanks, Terry.
Today we saw one with "59Burb" license plate. 59 Suburban?

Also my cousin was restoring this in O'Fallon, MO. Not sure id if he still has it:

 

Update on 25Nov2013:
No creaks during my commute on pavement Will try it on dirt; maybe Anza-Borrego this weekend. Speaking of Anza-Borrego Desert...
Here's the Runner, at home both in Hollywood and the desert - LOL!


Here she was with her long lost sister, another Red 86 4Runner:


And at our camp:

My buddy exploring the top of the mud ridge above.

Happy Thanksgiving

 

Happy Thanksgiving to you too, buddy! Very cool to hear... Glad you got that figured out! Nice and squishy on the bumps! Haha

 

All components on my coolant route are brand-new. However, I still have the stock fan clutch.
this thread, I hope to have your inputs.

 

Great looking truck. I was just up in Ofallon. I would replace the fan clutch. I was unaware that the fluid could be changed in it so will be looking into it. As I understand the clutch is a consumable part.

What symptoms are you having? Just the guage? I have seen the fan clutch just lock up and it is always engaged which can get noisey. Have you tried burping the system? Raise the front end as high as you can and let it idle for 10-15 minutes to get any trapped air out of the system with the radiator cap off.

 

Hey buddy! Hope you had a great Thanksgiving!

I agree with Terry, make sure the system is properly Burped....

But I always look at the mechanical suspects with overheating. Water pump, radiator and clutch fan. I have to read back again to see if the radiator or water pump have been replaced. Usually I can listen to a water pump with a stethoscope and hear some type of nonsense going on when it's having a problem. Obviously water coming out of the Weep hole is another sign. The radiator can be hit with a pretty simple Pressure test.....

4 crawler has a great write-up on refreshing the fan clutch......

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...zxt6NzCPbdsrTQ

 

Hi guys,
No overheating. Radiator, hoses, belts, water pump, thermostat all brand-new after engine rebuild. I just want to eliminate any weak links. Only fan clutch had not been replaced, and I'm wondering if anyone had experienced mechanical failure with the clutch, OR if silicone oil inside deteriorates and keeps clutch from engaging at proper temp. Considering using thicker oil for earlier engagement = safer.

 

UPDATE: I totally removed the stock "B" wire.

I already have a 90-amp alt.
This is how I re-wired my charging system using a thicker "B" Wire.
I connected battery and alt directly to each other, via a fusible link, as shown below.
After-factory wiring will be protected by separate fused distribution fuse box.
Stock wiring remains protected by the stock Fusible Link and fuse block - Even if after-market wiring shorts to hell.


Why?

• With above configuration, battery and alt are are exactly electrically in tandem = side-by-side = hand-in-hand.
• Stock fusible link keeps its original duty- protecting critical stock circuits.
• Added Fusible Link (FL) is dedicated to protecting B wire and accessories.
• Except for relocation of "B" wire, this configuration will leave critical stock circuit protection (fusible links and fuses) alone; stock circuit does not take too much power than stock battery and stock capacity alt provide.
• Stock circuit protection is not broken- nothing wrong with it; hence no need to fix it. Wiring, alt and battery upgrades would be for mods & accessories added on top of stock circuit, including H4 conversion harness for headlights, winches, more lights, audio system, etc.
• All accessory circuits will take power directly from that "tandem", not through the fusible link-fuse block network. If anything goes wrong with accessory circuits none of the fuses/F/L's protecting the critical stock circuits (running ignition, fuel, cranking, ECU, etc) will blow.

Even in worst-case scenarios like these:

• IF Battery Goes Out (i.e., internally) or is ACCIDENTALLY Disconnected (NOTE: NEVER INTENTIONALLY disconnect the battery when engine is running), Alternator will provide necessary power to stock circuit and accessory circuits. Stock circuit protection stays unaffected.
• IF Alternator Goes Out While Engine and Accessories Are drawing High Currents, battery will provide necessary current to stock and accessory circuits. Stock circuit protection remains unchanged.
• My FIRST-HAND EXPERIENCE: Internal battery failure. Battery post came loose and lost connection with cells inside. IF "B" wire were wired stock (in middle of stock fuse network) and I were winching with engine on, battery would no longer supply current, alternator output would increase to provide winch current (in orange below) through "B" wire, through stock fuses and fusible link and blow one or more of those parts. That would be a nightmare, especially out on the field.