Redeth005

This is what mine looks like.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...ter/churnd.htm

RAD4Runner

Thanks Richard. Might me different for 22RE but I'll take a look tonight.

BTW, folks. I think one good way to anticipate when a part will go bad (preventive maintenance) is base on statistics/previous experience. If you ever had a22RE fuel pump go bad on you, at what mileage?

I've got 178,000miles on my 86 Runner.

TIA

Redeth005

Wow dude. Amazing.... Your truck has less miles on the motor then my 2000 Corolla. I have something like 194k or so on the Corolla and I'll be reaching 209,000 on the 4runner some time this week.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The fuel filter is located on the passenger side of your engine. It is a 17mm bolts that connect to the fuel filter. One on each side. You will need a total of 4 new brass crush washers for each side of the bajo bolts. You have a little black acces plate that can be taken off to get a little better access to the fuel filter. Disconnect your battery as some fuel will run out of the lines and have the possibilty of getting to the hot wire on the starter.

The manual says you may need to remove the starter to get a little easier access to the fuel filter. I can do it without removing the starter but you may want to. I have a narrow 17mm wrench that is just the right length and narrow enough for me to get to the back bolt on the fuel filter. I usually can get to it from behind the intake or under the intake.

The front bolt I can get to from the access plate area. If you dont have your AC pump on, it is easy to get to from the front of the motor. One trick I do is when I have the wrench on the front bolt is to put my back against the front tire ( I cant see what I am doing, just know by feel) and using my right arm I am able to get enough flex and strength to break the bolt loose.

Then getting the mounting bolts that hold the fuel pump on can be a trick. That is where quarter inch drive sockets and vaious extentions work the best. It is a pain to get to the very top one.

Dont go by the lip on the fuel filter, but go by the direction shown by the arrow on the filter. I am sure I have seen the lip on different ends, depending on the brand of filter that you go with. The fuel filter line coming from the back of the truck should go to the front part of the filter and line that comes from the fuel rail goes to the rear of the filter on firewall.

I get my fuel pumps off of ebay. I have never had a problem with them. Dealer is $300, parts stores $150 and ebay have them for about $30. Cory got one and had some difficulty with his off of ebay. Not sure which company he used, but I have bought 6 or more and never had a problem with any of them. These have been on differnt trucks, not on the same truck,lol

On the pic below, you can see the fuel line coming off of the fuel rail and is connected to the back of the filter. The front of the filter is going to be the fuel line coming from the body/gas tank area of the truck.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

On post #966 shows a litte more of what I am talking about. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...9/index39.html

RAD4Runner

Thanks a lot, guys! Terry, wow! that looks tough! Will survey the battlefield this weekend

Now I recall that I never had a problem while running (so little chance it's TPS?).
I remember these:
1) Starting in cold (by San Diegan standard Terry and Cyberhorn - LOL!) ]morning in Sacramento after Shasta climb, took several seconds of cranking before she fired. Then no problem.
2) I drove to my body shop last Sunday, stopped engine, chatted with owner for maybe 15 minutes, restarted and the stuttering happened.

Cold Start Injector/Timing switch?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I would feel your Timing Switch is probably most at fualt but it could be the injector as well. From my experience it is the Timing Switch that will go bad first. I have never had a bad TPS so never had to trouble shoot one of those and feel they are rock solid. I do see alot of issues on them on the main page and wonder if they just need to clean the contacts and add a little dielectric grease. I can usually get about 30% of my electrical problems fixed just by cleaning the contacts.

If you do get into the fuel pump assembly, on either one of my runner builds in about the first page or so, you will see that most of the "J" lines are clogged. Basically not letting the fuel return to the tank. I would unclog the "J" line and think everything else was fine so never looked beyond that. When doing my 86 Runner, my entire return line was clogged. I try to mention on the main page or when a question that comes up about fuel issues that the fuel system tends to get neglected.

You may not have that problem in you area as it is not as humid and the moisture doesnt get in the tank like the humidity problem that we have here, but it is something I would check into while there. I have seen some that I pointed this out to and they were surprised at how bad their fuel system was. I use an air hose to flush to clear the lines and it that doesnt do it, I start adding Marvel Mystery oil to it. It is shown on my 86 Runner build how I did it. Just as soon as it starts to warm up, I will be going thru the fuel system on my 85 Extra cab build, but that is probably going to be another 2 weeks before I get to that point. It is just to cold in the shop. When I get to that stage I will try do some good pics for you. Yes, I am jealous of your winters.lol..

I have a parted out cab and will try and get you some pics tomorrow about the head light harness. I am not sure about where the connection is that you are looking for on the headlight connection, but think that by removing the inner fender that you could get access to just about all of the harness. In worse case scenario you would have to pull the fender.

I cant recall right off, but think the headlight harness runs on the passenger side, but should know more tomorrow. It may sound hard, but the wiring harnesses in these trucks are really set up nice. I am thinking the headlight harness goes down the passneger side and thru the firewall and disconnects at the computer, but it could run down the drivers side and disconnect at the fuse box. ( Latter makes more sense but for some reason, I am thinking passenger side). Might make it easier to do your upgrade with.

The connectors are all a little different and there isnt any way of getting them connected wrong. I will know more tomorrow and get you some pics.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The wiring may look intimidating, but is actually set up really nice. This is on a 22r truck but alot is the same on a 22re truck. I already have the front piece off that runs along the front of the core support,and it is hanging in the shed and am not sure which piece it is at this time.

Here it runs along the inner fender and it will fit thru the hole at the front of the inner fender.


Here is where it comes thru the firewall (passenger side) and this is where it would connect to the ECU (this is a carbed truck).


On the drivers side, it runs along the outside of the inner fender as well. I think by removing the inner fender plastic you could get great access to it or even pull the wiring thru without removing the fenders.


By the drivers kick panel is where this part of the harness is connected to the main harness. This is all one piece but the connections seperate at the front by the air breather and coil.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

All of this wiring goes thru the 3 inch holes on the firewall and have nice disconnects. I tried to show alot of the different connectors and they are fool proof. When they are stretched to where they belong it is easy to identify to which part of the truck that they go to.

I still cant recall which side the headlights actually run down. The fuse box on the passenger fender is where one of the wiring harness connect to as well. Right now I am thinking that on the EFI trucks, that is where the fuel injectors connect to but could be wrong.

This may not be the best pictures and write up, but if you will follow your headlight harness to its disconnects, you will find it isnt nearly as intimidating as this may look or sound. I have swapped 3 different harnesses and the first time, once I got about half way into it, I could tell Toyota had done it really nice and wasnt concerned about getting it back together at all.

A friend of mine just recently took a turbo truck and moved all of the drive train and wiring over to an 84 gtruck which is carbed only. All the cutouts and mounts are still the same.

RAD4Runner

Thanks a lot, Terry.
Yes, the wiring to the cabin is very accessible by removing the wheelwell shroud/curtain. Just hoping others could pinpoint exactly where to find the splice (like I did on the rear window controls) so I would not have to peel off all the tape to trace it.

Yeah, we had a cold spell 2 weeks ago; we complained that it's too cold to stand outside in the sun in t-shirts - LOL!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

SUP BUDDY!?!?!?!

So, .......... see the lights are coming along......... NICE!

I'm interested in doing this.... SO HURRY UP! hahaha... JK, totally... NO, really, I'm grateful that you're diving into this.... Makes sense, sure, since you DO THIS STUFF, and did, for years, lol.... BUT, still, I'm grateful that you're taking the first steps on this

I could REALLY use your help with the Con-Ferr light wiring... coming soon. Just have to figure out what I'll be going with, bulb wise, and then I wanna do quick disconnect(SINGULAR, yes, ... like a larger Romex/whatever it's called, those connectors we pin up ourselves... And in fact, might just use one of the extra switch connectors, one that has 6 pins or so... to run the 4- 6 lights from up there into a clean connection like that....then POP, it's done, or POP, it's connected. I have a nice lil spot behind the moonroof that was cut out for a CB antenna.... I have a plug in it now...

OK< sorry, that was rambling,... I'm not doing it today or anything, hahaha... BUT, if I knew you were coming up to hang out for a day or something.... I'd at least run it by ya(I'm sure if you come up, it would be to make a day of it around here... not work on my truck... I just mean pick your brain. I'm getting it a lot better now.. BUT, still need some freshening up on the how to finish the rear lighting up, once and for all. )

I WOULD LOVE to see my silverstars at 30% brighter... They're already bright... so I can't imagine 30% more, that would be plenty for me!

Still thinking over whether or not to put the 10" sub in the panel. I have an idea.... but I have to grab the materials from my buddy, first, to try it out.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Did you ask me about a dash piece above the cluster? I don't think so... just have to ask, as I can't REMEMBER, dang hahaha.

RAD4Runner

[QUOTE=ChefYota4x4;52031006]SUP BUDDY!?!?!?!
So, .......... see the lights are coming along......... NICE!......I WOULD LOVE to see my silverstars at 30% brighter... They're already bright... so I can't imagine 30% more, that would be plenty for me! [/QUOTE

LOL!

Got my Autopal H4 housings! Look good but will wait until harness is ready before I install.

Going at it slowly. Still brainstorming how I wanna do my high-beam indicator, and where to put diodes, etc (isolation and suppression) but got idea now. It will not take power from pin87 of high beam relay, but from headlight fuse (like in stock circuit). This way, if I send (reduced-voltage) power to high beam to use as DRL, it would not make hi beam indicator light up.

Harness will be modular so easy to hook up to anyone's system to see improvement. Too bad we don't have a good way of actually measuring brightness.

You decide what lights to use. Probably OK to use in expensive ones (walmart/harbor freight) because they're not for driving, and easy to replace, anyway. We'll figure out control circuit when I visit, hopefully sometime in Feb. Basic rules I'd follow for that:

• Relay as close to battery as possible to be safe. With relay OFF, hot wire will be as short as possible.
• Switched ground control. Again, hot wire will only be between battery and + side of relay. Wire going to dash will be for ground. If it shorts to chassis for any reason, worst case scenario is your lights will come on. No burnt wires.

If I were to wire through the shell/body, I would use military type Cannon bulkhead connector like this If it works for ships and aircraft it would work great on a truck.

If I were to do it, I would keep it in the enclosure. Body panel as enclosure for sub would be too unpredictable. I like stealth but would build a real enclosure within the body panel.

Regarding additional alternator capacity for lights:
I would like to supersize the wire between alternator and battery. This way:
Alternator and battery will aid each other depending on power demand, and
We can put auxiliary circuits either on battery side or alternator side. To do this, would be nice if we can find that wire from PYP, or make one from scratch. Just run it parallel to stock.

I believe it was Richard asking about dash stuff.

RAD4Runner

Original Plan discussed here was NOT GOOD.
I revised to this as built.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

That, my friend, is a TRICK, BY TOYOTA! hahaha.... JK, I have no clue... always wondered myself!

NICE layout on the wiring..... Maybe one day, when you have it all figured out, you can stop by and help me do every single thing? hahahaha.

Excellent write up, as usual, RAD!

RAD4Runner

LOL! Tnx, Mark!

pcola

speechless i am new to the yota world (88 single cab 4x4 with 22re) and i must say i would have never been able to do half the stuff i have if not for people like you! thankyou and god bless

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure what that box is for. I figured it was just for supression.

thatfeller

If I were to wire through the shell/body, I would use military type Cannon bulkhead connector like this If it works for ships and aircraft it would work great on a truck. Quote


If you use te canon plug type connecters get two REAR release connecters then they make a double sided female that actually seals so nothing can go throught he fire wall and you can take the harness on the inside off as well (no worrys about a unsealed holes also make sure you have a good crimper if you elect this route (solder is way better IMO but hey I'm just a aircraft mechanic for the af) so make sure you start in the middle and keep good records of what pin went where sorry for the long reply just had bad experiences also use Chinese wrap or somthing like that otherwise the bends in the wires right behind the canon plugs will break but this is a awesome way to be able to trouble shoot your harness

RAD4Runner

Updated alternator wiring post above

Thanks guys for the inputs and 4x4Runner for the harness.