Ocell

I finally got the axles unbolted from the diff! I tried all the prying and torching I could alone, but it took a buddy on the brake pedal and me on the cheater bar to pop them loose.

I wonder if I can drop the diff before removing the axles? I only need to remove one (the one with torn boots) so I'd love to be able to leave the other one in. Also then I don't have to deal with popping out studs to get the clearance to remove them.

I also started looking at the drive shaft. There's no room that I see to get a socket square on there, and I'm not getting the leverage I need with box wrenches. I tried hitting one with the torch... any other suggestions? Otherwise I'll just start hitting them with PB Blaster a couple times a day and keep trying.


It's also funny to me how small the wheels look on the truck, but they look huge when they're off. Mine aren't even that big in comparison to what a lot of guys around here run.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Nice work.... glad you got em

Far as just removing one... Wutchu mean? lol... Aren't you fully dropping the front axle and tube, etc., to get the new gears in?(or is that a different person? hahaha.. Too many threads lol).....

BTW, .... Have you REALLY inspected both sides at full droop and turn and then looked in the bends of the boots with a bright light? mine(the one that HADN'T ''YETTTTTT'' torn) ...the boots were nearly 'OPENING', ....but you'd never notice at a glance or even feeling them. Getting them out is pretty cake, IF you just pull the whole front axle diff and tube out-o-there.. OBVIOUSLY, lol... BUT, if you don't need to remove it, and you're just doing diff drop spacers? Yeah... not really practical.

I really need you to tell me what you're doing first, Ocell.. i'm sorry man.. my brain! lol...

ALL of what you're doing. Then I'll chime in with some useful points, etc. When I did the diff drop kit... I didn't unbolt the axle to diff flange .... I think I just supported it with a jack, removed the pivot bolt and lowered down abit, keeping it even with the mounting holes.. Then slide in the spacers, bolts and started the nuts...then let it hang for a minute while I took a break! haha. Far as doing the CV.... I think I would have done it BEFORE adding a Diff Drop kit(and all that said, I KNOW, I KNOW, ... I'm not even sure you're doing a diff drop, hahahahaha... Thought it was gears, ... But anyway, you'll lemme know... I'm just 'thinking aloud', ya know? )

Ocell

Hey Chef, I appreciate the thoughts!

Here's what's going down:

- I DO have new gears. IFS third member from a V6 with 4.88 gears.
- I DO have the diff drop kit.
- My passenger side axle boots are both gaping open, so I've got a new passenger axle to put in (easier than repacking the joints, not much more expensive)

My driver's side axle is fine, I've looked pretty close at the boots... but I may go ahead and order a new one anyway so I replace them as a pair.


So I've unbolted the axles and took the manual hub out, but I just can't maneuver the axle to clear the studs on the diff. I'd rather not mess with ball joints, and knocking those pressed-in studs from the diff's flange... I'm not sure I have the right tools for that, but if it's what I have to do then I'll suck it up and figure out the technique. I was hoping to mess with that once everything was out of the truck and I had more room.

I was thinking, if I drop the diff with the axles unbolted the diff should come down and the axles will just fall and everything will clear, maybe? I've got to completely remove the diff anyway, so it's no extra work.

So I'm really just wondering about order of operations.

Ocell

Ok, to be honest, I didn't try knocking out the studs because it was 10pm by the time I got to that point, and I've got too may neighbors to be hammering on steel like that.

Ocell

Progress! I found something to extend the handle of my box wrench so I could break the nuts on the front drive shaft loose. I put the transfer case in gear to lock the shaft in place while I was wrenching on it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ocell/8080773463/http://www.flickr.com/photos/ocell/8080773463/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/ocell/, on Flickr

I decided to give it a good cleaning while everything's still sealed up (I need to take the side tube off to use with my replacement diff) so I wouldn't get any mud and chemicals in the gearing. Check out those piles of oil/mud cake I've gotten off already.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ocell/8080774389/http://www.flickr.com/photos/ocell/8080774389/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/ocell/, on Flickr

tinigunner11

iTrader: (1)

Wow that sucker's dirty! I think mines leaking and it's covered in mud and gunk, so I don't even want to clean it. Why is it out and getting cleaned?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WOOT! NICE WORK! congratz, Bud!

Ocell

I'm swapping in 4.88 geared thirds from a V6. I'm also replacing the front CV axles, and doing a 1" front diff drop.

Thanks Chef!

Ocell

Also, I think mine's so dirty because of leaks around the oil pan that sits right above it. Maybe I should go ahead and redo the oil pan gasket while I have the diff dropped out and everything looks SO EASY to get to.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSS! Do the pan now, it's NEVER going to be that easy to get to again while the diff is in(EVEN IF DROPPED IN THE REAR to some degree).... Don't forget to use sealer on the pan bolt tips(clean the bolt tips and clean out the holes, too).

Ocell

Will do, for sure. Thanks for the notes.

At this rate I'll be pulling the crank shaft and replacing the rod bearings. Joking of course. I hope.

Buck87

What makes you think that the leak is the oil pan and not the timing cover or valve cover?

Buck87

I would clean everything and locate the leak before removing the oil pan.

Ocell

Because I've looked, and everything around the valve cover is dry.


You're right of course, I'm not going to do it without checking things. But now's the time to look and see if it needs replacing.

pwd

Great 4Runner you've got! I can only dream of having no rust like yours... you guys have it easy down south haha.

Buck87

OK yea, definitely do the pan now. You can also drill out the splines on the stud holes of your new diff and use the old studs as bolts. It is pretty easy to do since you are not removing much material and it will save you a lot of effort while you are under the truck.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

When IS the last time that timing kit was done, Ocell? Not trying to stitch 'thoughts' in your mind or cause any unnecessary concern or anything... Heck, maybe it's already done anyway, hahaha. Just saying... with the pan out, it's the best time to do that too, since you'd not have to pull the head. Pinching the HG is WAY less likely if you just are careful, since you don't have to wedge it so badly. Just curious how old that kit is, ya know?

Either way, yep, it couldn't HURT anything to reseal it. Maybe even clean up the Pick Up tube a lil ? .... YOU COULD run it a bit and do some Purple Power, hose it off, let it dry while running and then just see if you find any weeping around the AC Bracket bolt holes on the lower end of the timing cover(that's where the tensioner is)... And they also can leak from the oil pump upper/center mounting bolt that gets sealant... BUT it's rare. The pan leaks way more often.

BUT, just a tip, which I rarely hear mentioned... Happened to me....;

* The Oil Pressure Sending unit? IT CAN AND OFTEN does leak... And goes unchecked for THOUSANDS of miles..... Doesn't gush or lose pressure really... Just enough to make a TOTAL MESS.. And, well, where does the Oil filter and Oil pressure sending unit leak onto????? YEP, the Diff housing. In fact, it can also leak down onto the oil pan/block joining seam and run backward(the motor sits at an angle, ya know?).... Mine leaked and was going on the diff, then when rolling, it was clearly running along the pan and then dripping OFF OF the Oil drain bolt! hahaha.... It threw me, for sure.


I also had those terrible timing cover leaks out of the AC Bracket Bolt holes(middle 2 of 4 I believe are the most prone since the oil galley that feeds the tensioner and then oil pump is right there). If the timing cover seal wasn't done properly(like WAY too much sealer, etc.)... it can often end up leaking there. Was tough to find that one, even with the skid plate off, lol.

best wishes, no matter what you decide to do.... I'll come back to see what all this motor has been treated too.... I just couldn't remember, sorry Ocell.

Ocell

Thanks for all that. The PO said that the owner before him did a full engine rebuild at 200k miles, but there's no paperwork or proof. It's got 246k now.

I'll clean things up and see if I can track down the leaks. Hopefully it's just the oil pan.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ahhh, well, then there's no telling where he might have caused a lack of sealer/too much sealer, etc. Could be timing cover, could be pan, could be oil pressure sending unit(They remove it to hot tank the engine, ya know? Often, they don't use thread sealer or don't sufficiently tighten it... It's tapered.... so it's a lil unnerving that it might get overtightened... so I guess it's not uncommon that it leaks thereafter. Mine even backed out a lil bit. So, TINY dab of blue lock tite and seam of permatex thread sealer liquid... it hasn't leaked since.)

Could even leak down from the half moons and then it WILL wind up right at the pan and run down a lil bit on the seam and then RIGHT DOWN on the Diff hump, etc. Clean up under the half moons as well and then feel to see if maybe they forgot to add/or didn't add enough 'FIPK' under the half moons and on the corners there where the V-cover meets the head..... VERY common leak. Also, check the front main for leaking from out the bottom. The splash shield only gets involved and starts slinging oil if the front main leaks really badly. BUT, when just a 'drip-drip-drip' over time, it too can make a terrible mess.

Timing cover leaks aren't that hard to find... BUT, if it's really slow from the AC Mounting Bolt holes that come through the cover... they can be difficult. If it leaks by the seam where the oil galley is in the timing cover/THROUGH the cover's side and down the block/timing cover seam... you'll see that too from the right angle.

My point is, ... and buck87 made a good one in the 'MAKE SURE' dept.... I PERSONALLY would make sure... Only because, well, EVEN IF the pan IS leaking... it doesn't mean it's the only leak, ya know? However, if you don't really care about trying to get to any others that you might find... then for now, it can't hurt to seal up the pan IF IT IS leaking. Mine has most often leaked through the bolt holes... even though I sealed it well, because it gets past the main bead of sealer and then the easiest path of resistance is those holes... Especially if the bolt tips were dabbed in Sealer.

If you do run a thorough inspection of 'leak culprits'.... I would always start at the top and do a "P.O.E.", as you travel down to the last one.. The pan.

Ocell

If the pan isn't leaking I'll probably stop and just leave the small leaks elsewhere, for now. The truck has been on jack stands for a week. I'm getting anxious to get it back on the road (and trail) with the new gearing!