Ocell

Thanks guys! Looks like I'll put a day aside for getting the torsion bars figured out.

Also.... 4.88 thirds, factory, out of a V6.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

ooooooooooooooooooooooh, YOTAPORN!!!! NICE!

snowshredder555

Nice!

Ocell

Thanks to some rainy weather and some traveling I haven't been able to get to working on the truck yet.

I DID figure that since I'll have the front diff out anyway, it'd be a good time to put in a diff drop and hopefully save my new CV boots. I ordered a drop kit from 4crawler today.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...enDiffDropKits

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Got the same kit, ..... woot! lol. It's CAKE install... especially with all the goodies dropped

Ocell

Still no new work, but I popped the lid off yesterday.

Ocell

I've been trying to get my front diff out and put the new one in.

The new diff I got only has 2 of the 6 studs where you bolt on the half-axle. I can see that they're pressed in. Where's the best place to get new ones?

In this thread, navyredneck says to use M12x1.25mmx35mm bolts. Is that a bolt I can just grab from Home Depot or do I need to specifically get a press fit stud?

Ocell

In this photo you can see the flange with only 2 of 6 studs in it, top center of the image. (I also cleaned up the front cover. Before, it looked like the housing on the right.)




I've had to do a ton of cleaning/scraping/spraying to get the nuts exposed on the axle that's installed on the truck. This is the before pic. You're not going to get a socket on this...




I did disconnect the sway bar. I think I'll try driving it around town without it and see how it does. I'm going to give up on the front for this weekend and get the rear diff swapped out instead.

tinigunner11

iTrader: (1)

your truck is looking sick!! good job. and it's probably in here somewhere, but what tires and wheels are you running??

Ocell

Thanks! The wheels are 16" steels off of a Tacoma. The tires are 265/75/16 Treadwright Guard Dogs: https://www.treadwright.com/p-62-265...dog-m-t-d.aspx

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Bud, ....

Try Lowes....WAY more selection on Bolts and Studs in the "auto section' of their drawers, ya know? That sounds right on the thread pitch and such.... I posted it all in my build... but YES, I KNOW, "you don't have a week to read through", I get it, I do, hahahaha. Should be easy to find at Autozone or something, too.

That's a trip... I had no problem getting the front diff in our out.... (changing gears)... BUT, ... the CV's were not as easy, lol. I think having it at full droop helped to pull the CV's all the way their furthest toward the wheel... IIRC> Been a year at least. Sorry. I DID write it all down and post video though.

PS> Looks great that pic, man! LOVING those tires... If I didn't get such a STEAL on those Used 32's I have... I'd have grabbed those!

Ocell

Haha, yeah, I still haven't had a chance to read through your full thread yet. I'm glad you understand. I'll search through and see if I can find those posts.

The problem I'm having is with getting the axle unbolted from the diff. I'm soaking it in PB Blaster, and I'll give it a shot again soon. I just bought some punches and a torch, so hopefully I can knock the studs out of my diff and use them in the new one, or I'll get bolts. I'll know more once I read through your posts.

Thanks for checking in!

snowshredder555

Wire brush em'. Use a $2.50 welding wire brush from HomeDepot....totally disposable too. Personally, I'd use gasoline in a small coffee container and a catchpan for the fuel while you're cleaning it up. But have a fire extinguisher handy as well. Since it's not going back in, you should be able to get those bolts out and use em on the replacement diff. Oh yeah, put the front end in the air as well..this will allow you to take the tires off and get full droop. Should make taking the CV axles off a bit easier.

Ocell

Thanks. That's pretty much what I ended up doing, but I used engine degreaser and PB Blaster instead of gasoline.

I've got the front up in the air too.



I just need a spare foot to hold the brakes while I try and break the axle's nuts loose.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

NOPE, ..... don't need a spare foot at all, homie... Just stick a LARGE screwdriver like I have up in between 2 nuts(my driver is 24" long and around 3/8" thick box shaft)... OR, you could maybe use a crow bar.... something solid, preferably squared, ya know?

>>>>>>>>>>

Ocell

Thanks for the vid! I was basically doing that, but with a cheater bar in the wheel lugs. I think I just need my PB Blaster to have more effect.

This makes me want to find a way to unbolt everything once a year to keep stuff from freezing up!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I remember not long ago doing something like this, while leaning over the wheel, nut facing the other way as it was the flare nut on the caliper...., on a 2nd Gen 4Runner, 94, V6 Calipers...... OOPS....... TIGHTENING THEM instead of loosening! lol.... (Was out there for hours, 100*F, didn't eat first... Not excuses.. I WAS REALLY out of it, honest! lol .... But looking that way, And loosening things TO MY LEFT all day... 'DOH', didn't occur to me that "Uhhhhh, yeah, that's when you're standing ON THE OTHER SIDE, then it's left, dope!" hehehe... OH, yeah, was ticked! lol... BUT, only at myself. NOT EVEN saying that's what you've done... Just shared that for some levity. VERY unlike me to not think things out, even simple as 'Tighten/Loosen', hahahaha... BUT IT HAPPENS! ............. apparently

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> ........ It wouldn't be super cheap... BUT, .... stainless stuff's at Lowes would likely prevent this from happening again, ya knowskie? Then again, even guys in the Rust belt.... they ALWAYS end up getting them off eventually. I know they're set to 58# or something, right? Maybe set the torque wrench to 60# and take em a TINY bit further...SOAK REALLY WELL again after creating that 'NEW GAP'/having broken loose a LIL bit of that crap.... THEN loosen em?

Austin is Rusty, eh?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PSS> Did you try putting in the driver/wedge and let it go up against the frame/something, then press with the foot? I got MANY things loose that way, including a TERRIBLY frozen on Crank bolt(the guy cut the original one.... to get it off... THEN TORQUED IT BACK TO 116# lol.... So, seeing that the flange washer was compromised... it let EVERY bit of moisture and debris in there that wanted in! hahaha. DORK! lol.

Ocell

RE: tightening instead of loosening... I've had plenty of moments like that! Then you remind yourself that sometimes you have to tighten to get it to pop to break it loose, and you feel better, right?

Austin really isn't rusty. I honestly haven't tried everything yet. I just got to it as I was losing light, they didn't come off easy, and I didn't want to snap any bolts so I walked away for a bit. Thanks for all the ideas.

Thankfully I've got another car so I can leave the 4Runner on jack stands and chip away at it.