Ocell's 88 4Runner build thread
#201
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Thanks. I had already removed all the studs, I got bolts to replace them. I did end up getting it to clear.
I was having trouble with the driver's side. I was trying all combinations of jacking up the frame, jacking the a-arm, turning the wheels... The right combo was not jacking anything up, wheels are on so the suspension is sitting normal, and I cut the steering all the way to the passenger side.
The passenger side had no problem clearing at all with the steering cut to the drivers side.
The 1" diff drop is spacers that lower the differential to relax the CV joint angle when you've installed BJ spacers or jacked the torsion bars.
I was having trouble with the driver's side. I was trying all combinations of jacking up the frame, jacking the a-arm, turning the wheels... The right combo was not jacking anything up, wheels are on so the suspension is sitting normal, and I cut the steering all the way to the passenger side.
The passenger side had no problem clearing at all with the steering cut to the drivers side.
The 1" diff drop is spacers that lower the differential to relax the CV joint angle when you've installed BJ spacers or jacked the torsion bars.
#203
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Ahhhh, nice to hear!
I disconnected the lower ball joint and then could turn the brake assembly and hub at will, lol... Funny though... as you pull it outward, from the bottom, it makes the angle a lil difficult to get the splines in past an inch or so of the several inches required... SO, turning the brake and hub assembly by hand, while just lifting a TEENY bit did the trick, lol.
good news
I disconnected the lower ball joint and then could turn the brake assembly and hub at will, lol... Funny though... as you pull it outward, from the bottom, it makes the angle a lil difficult to get the splines in past an inch or so of the several inches required... SO, turning the brake and hub assembly by hand, while just lifting a TEENY bit did the trick, lol.
good news
#204
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Thread Starter
Getting the front differential aligned and raised was a pain, doing it alone. I used two jacks and a jack stand to pivot it up corner by corner. Here's a nice blurry photo:
I got the front put back together and got to drive the truck around a bit this weekend. I think the ride is much smoother without the anti-sway bar installed. I didn't have any handling problems, but I also didn't go faster than 40mph.
I've started on the rear differential and brakes. I can see light at the end of this tunnel.
I got the front put back together and got to drive the truck around a bit this weekend. I think the ride is much smoother without the anti-sway bar installed. I didn't have any handling problems, but I also didn't go faster than 40mph.
I've started on the rear differential and brakes. I can see light at the end of this tunnel.
#208
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys! I'm hoping I can knock out the rear diff swap and brake install this weekend. Part of what's taking me the longest right now is finding the free time to get the brake drums to a machine shop to be turned.
#209
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Thread Starter
Some updates on the rear:
I got both rear axles pulled. When I pulled the passenger side axle out I found a bunch of mud on the end of axle tube and around the bearings.
There was also a bit of this chunky red rust looking stuff on the axle.
When I pulled the driver's side the axle tube end and bearing area were all clean.
I've also noticed that it looks like the passenger axle's bearings are sliding out of the backing plate (possibly?). If I set the axles down standing up on the wheel studs, the backing plate will slide down on the axle/bearings, where the driver's side stays solid.
Passenger:
Driver:
The snap ring and bearing retainer look solid on the axle, so I don't understand what's going on here, but I'm guessing it is related to all the mud I found when I pulled the passenger axle out. Any thoughts?
I'm going to take the axles to my mechanic Monday morning and have the bearings/seals replaced if they are the culprit here. My breather WAS clogged, so I got it cleaned out and reinstalled. I'll do a breather extension soon.
I got the 4.1 geared third pulled out and was able to throw in my new 4.88 third after cleaning up the gasket surfaces. MUCH easier than the front. Wow. Here's a look at the ring gear of the third I took OUT.
While I had the third out, I noticed this patch of rust on the inside of the axle housing. There's no rust on the outside in that spot... how does that happen? I'm guessing the truck sat for a while and without gear oil on the metal the rust just grew.
I'm anxious to get this thing off of jack stands and back on wheels.
I got both rear axles pulled. When I pulled the passenger side axle out I found a bunch of mud on the end of axle tube and around the bearings.
There was also a bit of this chunky red rust looking stuff on the axle.
When I pulled the driver's side the axle tube end and bearing area were all clean.
I've also noticed that it looks like the passenger axle's bearings are sliding out of the backing plate (possibly?). If I set the axles down standing up on the wheel studs, the backing plate will slide down on the axle/bearings, where the driver's side stays solid.
Passenger:
Driver:
The snap ring and bearing retainer look solid on the axle, so I don't understand what's going on here, but I'm guessing it is related to all the mud I found when I pulled the passenger axle out. Any thoughts?
I'm going to take the axles to my mechanic Monday morning and have the bearings/seals replaced if they are the culprit here. My breather WAS clogged, so I got it cleaned out and reinstalled. I'll do a breather extension soon.
I got the 4.1 geared third pulled out and was able to throw in my new 4.88 third after cleaning up the gasket surfaces. MUCH easier than the front. Wow. Here's a look at the ring gear of the third I took OUT.
While I had the third out, I noticed this patch of rust on the inside of the axle housing. There's no rust on the outside in that spot... how does that happen? I'm guessing the truck sat for a while and without gear oil on the metal the rust just grew.
I'm anxious to get this thing off of jack stands and back on wheels.
Last edited by Ocell; 10-27-2012 at 05:03 PM.
#211
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Thread Starter
If I'm replacing the full set, though, maybe I'd go with the Wardens since I don't think I'll see much of the mud the Guard Dogs are designed for.
https://www.treadwright.com/p-53-285...den-a-t-d.aspx
#212
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Yeah, it's a tough decision. My BFG AT/KO's last set lasted 110K and I still sold the 4 for 150$, lol... They still had a lil tread. Enough to get the guy through a year or so, ya know? Not sure, but I the Wardens are likely the same thing, pretty much. NOT SURE on the 3-ply sidewall though But WOW, what a price, right?
#213
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Yeah, it's a tough decision. My BFG AT/KO's last set lasted 110K and I still sold the 4 for 150$, lol... They still had a lil tread. Enough to get the guy through a year or so, ya know? Not sure, but I the Wardens are likely the same thing, pretty much. NOT SURE on the 3-ply sidewall though But WOW, what a price, right?
Ocell- I've looked into a set tires from Treadwright and did some digging...There seems to be a mixed feeling on some of the boards that were linked too as far as time frames and customer service. Seemed like mostly good but then there were some nay-sayer's as well. Please keep us posted on your experience along with what size you went with. I'm thinking about going with a spare set for the trail....but I'll let you go first.
Last edited by snowshredder555; 10-28-2012 at 01:40 PM.
#214
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Thread Starter
Ocell- I've looked into a set tires from Treadwright and did some digging...There seems to be a mixed feeling on some of the boards that were linked too as far as time frames and customer service. Seemed like mostly good but then there were some nay-sayer's as well. Please keep us posted on your experience along with what size you went with. I'm thinking about going with a spare set for the trail....but I'll let you go first.
I haven't ordered yet. I'm not in a hurry, so I don't mind if they take a couple weeks or however long, as long as they communicate the timeline correctly.
Last edited by Ocell; 10-28-2012 at 03:46 PM.
#215
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If you've emailed em' and are happy with the service so far then that's a good sign. Some of the reviews I've read into state exactly what you're saying so far. Great before and while they take your money but then weeks after, they totally forget who you are. Now I'm not trying to brow beat them, but the one guy had some where around 6 months of communicating before/ during and after he placed his order. In the end, he requested his money back. Solely because of this one review, I went out and spent my money locally. Please don't let me discourage you...infact, do it. If it goes well for you, I may just order a spare set.
#217
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#218
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I asked my mechanic to have a look at my axles this morning. He said that he's seen the same type of play in other axles before, even after having new bearings and seals installed. The play is eliminated when the axles are bolted in to the housing. The inner seals seem to be good, so I'm going to clean things up and install them as is.
I'm going to use some RTV where the axle tube seals against the backing plate. Along with my unclogged breather, I think things will stay sealed and clean.
Not doing the bearings right now is a great financial relief.
I'm going to use some RTV where the axle tube seals against the backing plate. Along with my unclogged breather, I think things will stay sealed and clean.
Not doing the bearings right now is a great financial relief.
#219
Just thought id chime in, read the whole post and love the Runner Bro! I recently picked up my 88 Runner and am inspired by this thread* As with everything money and time play the more important factor. Did you ever try new leaf packs cause the rear of mine is sagging and bottoms out on the stops but i want to avoid cutting and welding for the spring mod.
#220
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Thanks! I really appreciate that.
I haven't tried a new leaf pack yet. I took my Zuk mod springs out, but things haven't sagged much so far. I may be alright with the stock springs.
You don't have to cut your bump stops if you get the right springs. The springs that were on my mine were big enough to fit around the bump stops. Mine were out of a Jeep, model 128AB. I think they're too firm for the back of a 4Runner, you can see that on my trail trip my rear didn't flex much at all. But maybe you can find a softer spring with a larger diameter.
I haven't tried a new leaf pack yet. I took my Zuk mod springs out, but things haven't sagged much so far. I may be alright with the stock springs.
You don't have to cut your bump stops if you get the right springs. The springs that were on my mine were big enough to fit around the bump stops. Mine were out of a Jeep, model 128AB. I think they're too firm for the back of a 4Runner, you can see that on my trail trip my rear didn't flex much at all. But maybe you can find a softer spring with a larger diameter.