Bahahah. I was just about to quote the same pic for the same thing

 

Haha, the picture is confusing, but no, that's looking toward the front of the truck.

 

Make a build thread! I'd love to read it, especially since I need to do the parking brake cable soon, as well as some new shocks...

 

No it is a rear IFS truss. it goes between the lower control arms at the rear mounts.

 

Ah, I see... is that special? Should I know that? Thanks for the heads up!

 

There is no brace there from the factory...

Any reason you didnt go with sr5 buckets??

 

Wow, didn't know that. Why would the original owner have installed those? Any logical reason?

I didn't go with SR5s because I looked at a bunch and most were in horrible condition, and those that were in decent condition were $300+. The market here in Seattle is sparse for those seats in my experience, especially good ones for a reasonable price. I had a budget of about $100 max.

 

take some more pics of that rear truss... looks neat

 

So, I feel like I should say one of my goals with this build is to make the truck more or less appear to be stock. That's why I chose the old Corolla seats. I could have chosen some nice new seats out of a modern car, but that wouldn't look quite right, would it? And the SR5 seats were too expensive and rare in the Seattle area at the time after looking for about 3 weeks, so the Corolla seats seemed like the best option.

Also, I think it's important to show what the interior looked like before the seats and stuff:



Now that I had figured out how to mount the seats, by using one stock hole in the front, drilling three new ones, and threading 4" long by 1/2" thick grade 8 bolts through the square metal support, I cut all the metal supports, primed, and painted them. I also decided to sand down some of the rust on the seats, then prime and paint those as well.









I had some leftover paint, so I got out the factory jack that had so beautifully stained my carpet with rust previously. I sanded it down, primed it, and painted it gloss black:



I also painted the metal clip that held the jack in, since it was completely rusted over as well:



The carpet came in, so I inspected it and cut it to fit. By this point I was so excited that I forgot the next step: to install sound/heat insulation along the floorboards! I bought a roll of Reflectix home bubble/foil insulation from Home Depot for $15. I cut it to fit, then held it in place with a small amount of spray adhesive (3M Super 77 I think?). It ended up being enough to cover the whole cab, even doubling up the thickness in a few places.









Finally, it's starting to look decent!

Next, I drilled the final holes and figure out where to place my seats.





And here is the final result, with the driver side installed:

 

wow man, that's good stuff!

does the seat sit high enough for you? looks pretty low... but then again, I'm a short little dude

 

Thanks, and no the seat sits about 1.5" higher than with the stock bench. I think that's because the padding was so old on the bench. I can see practically the entire hood, and I'm 5' 11". My friend who is 5' 6" had no problem when he borrowed the truck for a few weeks.

I will hopefully be taking a few pictures of that truss tonight...

 

So, how did the insulation work out?? I want to do my truck!!

 

How about a review of the insulation. Did it make a big difference?

 

x3 on the insulation.
How is it?

 

I'm still curious about this IFS truss...

 

I'm going to go ahead and suggest two things you should consider. These are experience speaking, and just to augment a good thread so far.

Remove the bubble pack deadener, it will begin to melt as the plastic is thinner than even the factory carpet backing. Pick up some dynamat and do it right.

Remove your square tube seat rail spacers and cap off both ends asap. You'll likely be OK for a little bit, but after a bit they'll cut into that new carpet, and begin cutting into your floor pan, or worse, buckle if you put any odd stresses on them, either way, your seat positioning is compromised.

As for that IFS truss, looks like an old school Downey dog-legged pipe version. If you're gonna wheel it, or just want to keep that frame aligned good go with a Sonoran Steel truss IMHO.

 

I've been talking about this a little bit here if you want to read the whole thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...uction-194004/

The consensus is that it has made a pretty big difference. My friends say it made a huge difference, but that's a little hard to say. I would estimate it's at least 2x as quiet. I used to be able to hear the exhaust and some tinny noise in the cab, even with the carpet installed. Now, with the padding two layers thick on the ridge and along the firewall, I can only hear the engine, and even then it's not very loud. Road noise has been significantly cut down. I haven't installed it yet in my doors because I haven't wanted to take them apart again (I broke a few clips last time). I know that if I installed it in my doors it would be even better.

So, all in all, for $20 ($15 for the Reflectix insulation and $5 for a can of spray adhesive), I don't think anyone can complain. I'm going to address KellyC's points below.

 

The best place I could find was called Stock Interiors (www.stockinteriors.com). I say "best" loosely -- it was the cheapest and the best color matching to the original. They will send you out samples of the carpet for free, which was awesome. I received them a few days later and then inspected the stock carpet.

For reference, the matching color you want from Stock Interiors is 8078-Dark Grey Plush Cut Pile.

I haven't checked out any yards in Issaquah. Two days ago I called the Pull-A-Part in Lynnwood and Arlington, but they have a really meager supply of pickups right now. What's this junk yard you speak of?

 

Is that a js550 I see?

 

Haha, indeed it is! It was my roommates, in immaculate condition then he sold it. This was a fun adventure: