kelvin 1989 4runner build
#302
Registered User
Thread Starter
I bought some speakers on Amazon awhile ago and decided to try to install them. The sr5 version of the runner has 4 speakers, and the dlx only has 2. The rear panels have grills for speakers, but there is no way to mount them. Instead of being ghetto and drilling holes in the panel itself, I've decided to attempt some fiberglass work. I am glassing over the rear panels with an insert for 6.5in speakers. So far I have a few spots that need more reinforcement which I just hopefully finished with. I'm not looking to win any car shows but it will look factory besides the speaker part. Im thinking ill carpet then when they're dry.
#303
Registered User
Double post.
Last edited by Nervo19; 10-20-2014 at 08:34 PM.
#304
Registered User
This is how I did it last week:
With plastic on it doesn't show:
With plastic on it doesn't show:
Last edited by Nervo19; 10-20-2014 at 08:33 PM.
#307
Registered User
Thread Starter
I put on a few more layers last night. It was pretty flimsy but it feels ok now. Maybe a few more then some carpet and the driver side will be done. Im debating on whether I should box in the speaker itself or just leave it open in the back?
#310
Registered User
Thread Starter
So it's not perfect but I trimmed it up according to the resin line left by the panel and it fits right. I started thinking about how I would mount it and really only had the fiberglass to bolt it to, which isn't even 1/8in thick, so I cut out some wooden rings to bolt it to. The driver side will be sunk in slightly more since this is after the fact. The passenger side glassing will be done tomorrow and hopefully turn out as good or better than the driver side. I'm almost debating on whether I should take a stab at cutting my rusty rear fenders and glassing them...
#314
Registered User
Thread Starter
Took the 3rd member out of the fj62 axle. All looks good. Punched out the outer trunnion bearings of the axle on both sides. Cleaned out the knuckle balls and tore my dt400 apart some more.
#316
Registered User
Thread Starter
Looked into my rust issue on the passenger front floor. Did some grinding/cutting/buffing proposing it for some fiberglass work when I figured it give gizler a ring. His suggestion to use steel instead of fiberglass makes sense, since the rust is getting to the body mount. Till I get some steel I'll be putting project on hold temporarily. I've been working on my yamaha dt400 getting it road ready.
#320
Registered User
Thread Starter
most of the rust chipped out, but i used my 4in grinder and end grinder with 80 grit wheel on it to clean it up some. today the temps dropped big time and i could feel it through the foot well, so im going to weld in some temp steel to cover up what i can.
for my job they sent me and 7 other guys to a local community college for weld training, specifically SMAW and FCAW. The first two weeks of training we were welding SMAW and had to pass a 1g 3/8th butt weld test, visual and bend test. the last 2 weeks we were required to pass a 1g 2g 3g and 4g FCAW visual/bend test on 3/4in steel.
on thursday at the end of the day i brought in my fj62 axle to weld on my soa kit and i ran into trouble. i started off using the plasma cutter and cut off the top perch on the driver side. i squared it off the original bottom spring perch and tacked it in place. i then measured across to the passenger side mount and found a 1/4in difference from the front to back. looking straight down at the axle it was very clear the tube was bent
i put the project on hold til friday as i came up with a plan.
1. acquire diameter of axle, which i found to be 33mm or 1.31in. i found a local fab shop that had what i needed, only slightly larger. it measured 1 5/16th which is 1.3125in. i had it cut to 4ft 6in so it would stick out both sides of the housing
2. heat the bent side of the housing and jack the center section of the housing up to bend it back true, insert rod through housing/3rd member, cool it, let jack loose and hope it works.
step 1 and half of 2 worked. i started off sticking the shaft through the housing with no third member to see if it would go through, and it was off by about 1/4in. i then stuck the third member in, and it would only pass through one side of the third. this told me that the long tube had a slight bend in it as well.
i didnt take any pictures of the process, but i tacked both ends of the housing to pieces of flat plate. i heated up both sides of the third member with it bolted in place and slowly jacked it up. i worked the shaft through and im gussing my jack didnt have enough pressure as it was so close to going through. only 1/32 off. the shaft slides into both sides of the housing very smooth as before it was very tight. i could also see marks inside the third where it was obviously hitting, possibly meaning the shaft was bent. either way heres a few pictures after i finished.
for my job they sent me and 7 other guys to a local community college for weld training, specifically SMAW and FCAW. The first two weeks of training we were welding SMAW and had to pass a 1g 3/8th butt weld test, visual and bend test. the last 2 weeks we were required to pass a 1g 2g 3g and 4g FCAW visual/bend test on 3/4in steel.
on thursday at the end of the day i brought in my fj62 axle to weld on my soa kit and i ran into trouble. i started off using the plasma cutter and cut off the top perch on the driver side. i squared it off the original bottom spring perch and tacked it in place. i then measured across to the passenger side mount and found a 1/4in difference from the front to back. looking straight down at the axle it was very clear the tube was bent
i put the project on hold til friday as i came up with a plan.
1. acquire diameter of axle, which i found to be 33mm or 1.31in. i found a local fab shop that had what i needed, only slightly larger. it measured 1 5/16th which is 1.3125in. i had it cut to 4ft 6in so it would stick out both sides of the housing
2. heat the bent side of the housing and jack the center section of the housing up to bend it back true, insert rod through housing/3rd member, cool it, let jack loose and hope it works.
step 1 and half of 2 worked. i started off sticking the shaft through the housing with no third member to see if it would go through, and it was off by about 1/4in. i then stuck the third member in, and it would only pass through one side of the third. this told me that the long tube had a slight bend in it as well.
i didnt take any pictures of the process, but i tacked both ends of the housing to pieces of flat plate. i heated up both sides of the third member with it bolted in place and slowly jacked it up. i worked the shaft through and im gussing my jack didnt have enough pressure as it was so close to going through. only 1/32 off. the shaft slides into both sides of the housing very smooth as before it was very tight. i could also see marks inside the third where it was obviously hitting, possibly meaning the shaft was bent. either way heres a few pictures after i finished.