KatKrazy's '88 Pickup Build
06-16-2011, 10:16 AM
#21
Great looking truck, Kat, ...alwaysssssssss loved that color(like a silver-blue-violet, right?) Almost bought a 4runner like that, ....but the sucker was a leaky pig and V6, and they wanted like 4500? NUTS! lol.
Anyway, .... cool on the TJ's...looks great. Thanx for stopping in my Zuk Mod Thread and throwing up the link...
Scribededed! lol
PS> Pics of Mudder's, asap! lol
Anyway, .... cool on the TJ's...looks great. Thanx for stopping in my Zuk Mod Thread and throwing up the link...
Scribededed! lol
PS> Pics of Mudder's, asap! lol
06-18-2011, 03:38 PM
#22
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Lame weather here today but I thought I'd try to get a few pics in the rain........
As it sat before today:
I have an additional set of wheels for the truck so I can not eat up my mudders while daily driving
Cooper Mud Claw 30 X 9.50
They have less road noise than I figured they would. I think I am going to like them.
Not sure if I like the black wheels or not, but it don't really matter that much because they are just stock rims painted black. That's how I bought them. I will be dealing with a lot of snow and mud this winter so whatever, right?
Thx for lookin.
As it sat before today:
I have an additional set of wheels for the truck so I can not eat up my mudders while daily driving
Cooper Mud Claw 30 X 9.50
They have less road noise than I figured they would. I think I am going to like them.
Not sure if I like the black wheels or not, but it don't really matter that much because they are just stock rims painted black. That's how I bought them. I will be dealing with a lot of snow and mud this winter so whatever, right?
Thx for lookin.
06-21-2011, 05:36 PM
#24
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Thanks Z! I have taken them back off and set aside a spot in the garage for them as I won't be running them til October. This is my DD and I don't want to wear them down driving to work!
07-04-2011, 05:24 PM
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Someone tell me how big a project it is to drop the transfer case in this truck, re-seal the sections, and throw it back in??? I have a small gear oil leak and was wondering if I should mess with it in a weekend, or is it a bigger deal than that?
07-04-2011, 10:19 PM
#26
NOT a big deal.... BUT, ....it's one that you have to take care in doing as, ....IF you damage the seal(which I assume would be brand new) that separates the shaft and trans..... you'll be pulling it again to do it again, along with that front-case-gasket.
I did the rear pinion seal to the rear shaft in around 30minutes, total, labor(farted around a bit inbetween...but the actual work was really that quick).... The front one's a lil tougher, ...but you could MUCH MORE easily get IT done with the Tcase OUT.
I have all the part/seal numbers, dust shield/pad number, gasket numbers and so forth if you need em. There are kits from Marlin and others that have EVERYTHING you would need, including bearings for 199$ or so?(granting the gears are fine....which 99.999999% of the time they are, according to what I've read, .."Very, VERYYYYYYY rare these T-cases go out under DD and mild wheeling conditions").
In my build thread, a LIL bit back, I posted a link to a great thread for redoing the front and rear shaft/pinion seals..... I, as well, have now obtained the main trans/t-case input shaft seal, gaskets, etc.
Let me know what you need on here or my build thread and I'll try to get you part numbers, etc. The Dealer numbers you see on the print out are NOT the numbers they will give you...they've updated them DOZENS of times so they're thinner and so they'll wear on different spots on the shafts, ya know?)
I did the rear pinion seal to the rear shaft in around 30minutes, total, labor(farted around a bit inbetween...but the actual work was really that quick).... The front one's a lil tougher, ...but you could MUCH MORE easily get IT done with the Tcase OUT.
I have all the part/seal numbers, dust shield/pad number, gasket numbers and so forth if you need em. There are kits from Marlin and others that have EVERYTHING you would need, including bearings for 199$ or so?(granting the gears are fine....which 99.999999% of the time they are, according to what I've read, .."Very, VERYYYYYYY rare these T-cases go out under DD and mild wheeling conditions").
In my build thread, a LIL bit back, I posted a link to a great thread for redoing the front and rear shaft/pinion seals..... I, as well, have now obtained the main trans/t-case input shaft seal, gaskets, etc.
Let me know what you need on here or my build thread and I'll try to get you part numbers, etc. The Dealer numbers you see on the print out are NOT the numbers they will give you...they've updated them DOZENS of times so they're thinner and so they'll wear on different spots on the shafts, ya know?)
07-04-2011, 10:36 PM
#29
When you open the 'check/fill' 24mm plug bolt..... if fluid comes pouring out, it's likely that seal 90311-32009 has blown out and is allowing trans fluid to pour backward into the t-case.
Far as the 90303-38010 "SEAL" goes, ....it's really like dust pad, ....looks almost like carpet padding, the cloth type. There is NOT one of those in the rear pinion set up... just the forward one.
DO NOT FORGET to get those nuts, either..... YOU DO NOT want to re-use them other than for anything but emergency trail repair, etc.
Also, be sure you have a set of punches, preferably... to remove the staking of the stake nut and then to stake it...>Hmmmm, I now want steak for breakfast, ...wonder why? lol.
You can do this in a DAY, if you have ALL of one, I would imagine(on a first time attempt).... maybe 2 of in and out(solid 4-6 hours work i would imagine....Not so much the labor, but including the shafts removal and installation, re-installation of the t-case, etc.), but DEFINITELY in a weekend!
Far as the 90303-38010 "SEAL" goes, ....it's really like dust pad, ....looks almost like carpet padding, the cloth type. There is NOT one of those in the rear pinion set up... just the forward one.
DO NOT FORGET to get those nuts, either..... YOU DO NOT want to re-use them other than for anything but emergency trail repair, etc.
Also, be sure you have a set of punches, preferably... to remove the staking of the stake nut and then to stake it...>Hmmmm, I now want steak for breakfast, ...wonder why? lol.
You can do this in a DAY, if you have ALL of one, I would imagine(on a first time attempt).... maybe 2 of in and out(solid 4-6 hours work i would imagine....Not so much the labor, but including the shafts removal and installation, re-installation of the t-case, etc.), but DEFINITELY in a weekend!
07-05-2011, 03:35 AM
#30
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Thanks a ton Chef! I just changed the gear oil in the T-case so I could get an idea of how much it was leaking and there wasn't any additional fluid in there. I have to fill from the top side on that one since some numb-nuts previous owner rounded the 24mm fill plug bolt off completely.
Anyway, it is a very slow leak as it turns out but it bugs me enough to maybe take this on when the weather cools down maybe.
In the second diagram on that page, there are 4 sections we'll say shown.......I suspect the leak is coming from the mated surface between the second and third section.(just left of the drain plug section.
I do not think it is leaking anywhere else but I could be wrong.
The diagram shows no gasket there.
Anyway, it is a very slow leak as it turns out but it bugs me enough to maybe take this on when the weather cools down maybe.
In the second diagram on that page, there are 4 sections we'll say shown.......I suspect the leak is coming from the mated surface between the second and third section.(just left of the drain plug section.
I do not think it is leaking anywhere else but I could be wrong.
The diagram shows no gasket there.
07-05-2011, 08:40 AM
#31
No prob.... but I THINK, .....you're wrong on that one,.....pretty sure there is a gasket, there, it's just broken up into sections differently from one diagram to the other. That diagram is showing you only the seal, front gasket to trans, pins, so forth.
The gasket, I'M PRETTY SURE, is 36143(which will probably be the same, unlike the seals which are updated) in the picture/diagram above that. They just can't give you a blown up view of the front and rear shafts AND the carcass without separating them into two-three sections.
The gasket, I'M PRETTY SURE, is 36143(which will probably be the same, unlike the seals which are updated) in the picture/diagram above that. They just can't give you a blown up view of the front and rear shafts AND the carcass without separating them into two-three sections.
07-05-2011, 08:48 AM
#32
Thanks a ton Chef! I just changed the gear oil in the T-case so I could get an idea of how much it was leaking and there wasn't any additional fluid in there.
HOW can you be SURE on that.... especially if you just changed it. You mean, when you changed the fluid, the old stuff that came out wasn't more than 1.75Quarts?
I have to fill from the top side on that one since some numb-nuts previous owner rounded the 24mm fill plug bolt off completely.
I would really get that fixed...but that's just me and my OCD~! hahaha.
Anyway, it is a very slow leak as it turns out but it bugs me enough to maybe take this on when the weather cools down maybe.
Are you SUREEEEEEEEE it's not the rear seal deflector, slinging gear oil all over the place? Did mine 3 days ago, ....... NOT A DROP since, yet it LOOKED like every gasket and seal on the thing was leaking! My point is, ....Might wanna just do it all, or try to the front and rear pinion seals just to rule them out.... I've listed all the part numbers(Updated) in my writing in the upper/first diagram. Even if you still pulled it from there, ....you wouldn't have to change THOSE seals again, ya know?
In the second diagram on that page, there are 4 sections we'll say shown.......I suspect the leak is coming from the mated surface between the second and third section.(just left of the drain plug section.
Again, .... REALLY hard to 'KNOW', ........ya know? lol. Have you seen any fluid coming from the rear pinion gear oil deflector right after you stop? (Just a lil drip?)
I do not think it is leaking anywhere else but I could be wrong.
Join the club, ....I'm wrong all the time! hahahaha.
The diagram shows no gasket there.
HOW can you be SURE on that.... especially if you just changed it. You mean, when you changed the fluid, the old stuff that came out wasn't more than 1.75Quarts?
I have to fill from the top side on that one since some numb-nuts previous owner rounded the 24mm fill plug bolt off completely.
I would really get that fixed...but that's just me and my OCD~! hahaha.
Anyway, it is a very slow leak as it turns out but it bugs me enough to maybe take this on when the weather cools down maybe.
Are you SUREEEEEEEEE it's not the rear seal deflector, slinging gear oil all over the place? Did mine 3 days ago, ....... NOT A DROP since, yet it LOOKED like every gasket and seal on the thing was leaking! My point is, ....Might wanna just do it all, or try to the front and rear pinion seals just to rule them out.... I've listed all the part numbers(Updated) in my writing in the upper/first diagram. Even if you still pulled it from there, ....you wouldn't have to change THOSE seals again, ya know?
In the second diagram on that page, there are 4 sections we'll say shown.......I suspect the leak is coming from the mated surface between the second and third section.(just left of the drain plug section.
Again, .... REALLY hard to 'KNOW', ........ya know? lol. Have you seen any fluid coming from the rear pinion gear oil deflector right after you stop? (Just a lil drip?)
I do not think it is leaking anywhere else but I could be wrong.
Join the club, ....I'm wrong all the time! hahahaha.
The diagram shows no gasket there.
Just trying to help...... that's not a big job really.....but if you don't HAVE to pull it, WHY? RIGHT?
03-03-2012, 02:05 PM
#34
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It looks like he used the front factory original TJ (Wrangler) springs. They are the ones that fit over the bump stops without cutting your Toyota. They are 16" and most people cut them to 10 or 11 inches. They cut pretty easily with a reciprocating saw or cut off wheel. If you have a 4x4 shop in your town they are always removing them when they do a customer's lift. I paid $9.00 for mine. You can also get them on eBay.
03-04-2012, 04:22 AM
#35
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I did use the front springs off a Wrangler. Found the set used on Ebay for $44 delivered.
Last edited by KatKrazy; 03-04-2012 at 04:25 AM.
06-03-2012, 07:57 AM
#36
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I got no brakes!! Not a good thing..........started getting weak and I needed to double pump the pedal. Just got worse and worse and now I got nothin. There is no fluid loss so is my master cylinder shot? The vacuum line from the intake to the booster has no leaks. Any way to know if the booster or the master cylinder is the culprit?
Last edited by KatKrazy; 06-03-2012 at 08:18 AM.
10-04-2012, 04:35 PM
#37
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Can anyone on here tell me if this is a good deal, reputable supplier, and quality parts and gaskets??? If not, is there a better supplier with good prices?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-95-TOYOTA...sories&vxp=mtr
Also, should head bolts absolutely be replaced each time a head is replaced?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-95-TOYOTA...sories&vxp=mtr
Also, should head bolts absolutely be replaced each time a head is replaced?
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