irab88's 1993 PickUp Build-Up Thread
#1874
all right, time for a summary of the e-locker install, including things that i learned (sometimes the hard way)
>> part 1, the locker install
-the axle shaftsslide out easily, and they're light
-the differential is easily removed at this point, but it's heavy
-the axle housing needs to be removed completely, otherwise it's a pita to modify
-the axle housing is light, able to be lifted by one person
-for the housing modifications, use the gasket!!!! you'll never remove enough material
-once the material is removed, test fit the e-locker, both locking/unlocking
-get a long drill bit to feed into the to-drill stud holes of the locker
-with the e-locker in place, drill only a bit of the holes. enough to keep the drill centered
-take the locker off, then drill/tap the holes
-re-install everything
-the v6 e-locker pinion flange has the same bolt pattern as my 4cyl pickup
>> part 2, the electrical
-plenty of circuits out there. find one and stick with it
-you'll need to run 6 wires to the rear
-the ground in the 5-pin connector and one of the pins of the lock switch can be tied together
-the locker motor draws less than 5 amps (i tested multiple times). fuse to ~10 amps
-test the circuit when you first make it and test it outside before you install it
-to test, you only need to choc the front wheels, put the truck in neutral, and raise one of the rear wheels
>> part 3, operation
-the mechanism is spring-loaded, so it may not lock immediately. as soon as there’s alignment, it’ll “click” locked
-normal turns will drag the tires a bit. driving straight is safe, but quick turning feels delayed
-if you’re not going to use it for a while, put it into “unlock” and pull the fuse
that’s all for now, if you (*cough* mark *cough*) have any questions, just lemme know. i’ll let y’all know how well it works after next weekend
>> part 1, the locker install
-the axle shaftsslide out easily, and they're light
-the differential is easily removed at this point, but it's heavy
-the axle housing needs to be removed completely, otherwise it's a pita to modify
-the axle housing is light, able to be lifted by one person
-for the housing modifications, use the gasket!!!! you'll never remove enough material
-once the material is removed, test fit the e-locker, both locking/unlocking
-get a long drill bit to feed into the to-drill stud holes of the locker
-with the e-locker in place, drill only a bit of the holes. enough to keep the drill centered
-take the locker off, then drill/tap the holes
-re-install everything
-the v6 e-locker pinion flange has the same bolt pattern as my 4cyl pickup
>> part 2, the electrical
-plenty of circuits out there. find one and stick with it
-you'll need to run 6 wires to the rear
-the ground in the 5-pin connector and one of the pins of the lock switch can be tied together
-the locker motor draws less than 5 amps (i tested multiple times). fuse to ~10 amps
-test the circuit when you first make it and test it outside before you install it
-to test, you only need to choc the front wheels, put the truck in neutral, and raise one of the rear wheels
>> part 3, operation
-the mechanism is spring-loaded, so it may not lock immediately. as soon as there’s alignment, it’ll “click” locked
-normal turns will drag the tires a bit. driving straight is safe, but quick turning feels delayed
-if you’re not going to use it for a while, put it into “unlock” and pull the fuse
that’s all for now, if you (*cough* mark *cough*) have any questions, just lemme know. i’ll let y’all know how well it works after next weekend
#1878
i would have, too, if it were actually something other than a blank tape. my dad doesn't have too many cassettes (mostly vinyl and cd), so the chances of finding some hard rock (pun intended) e-locker switch box were slim.
in other news, i am no longer an intern. job with full benefits, baby! woo! got all checked in this morning
in other news, i am no longer an intern. job with full benefits, baby! woo! got all checked in this morning
#1879
Registered User