irab88

iTrader: (4)

dude- you can leave the truck idling with the heat on to do this. it takes maybe 15 mins. pull the carpet back, pull the boots up, shifters out, wipe everything off, new seats in, grease, re-install everything. that's it.

do it. it's nice.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

so after a week of driving, ~300 miles, the clutch still feels a bit like it did when new. it's funny, because it acts inversely to my old clutch; it's sticky when dry, softer when it's wet out. in any case, it grabs extremely well. i'll have to get used to it, but it's nice not to have to worry about it.

in other news, i'm tracking down an oil leak. i think the oil pan didn't get sealed quite right when i re-built the engine. it's on the right side, and only drips a few drops out every night. did an oil change yesterday, so i know it's not leaking too bad. but it's just one more thing to have to do. sigh.

xxxtreme22r

Try snugging up the oil pan bolts. They might have just wiggled loose.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

hmm... good point. i can do that tomorrow (nice and warm, they predict)

xxxtreme22r

If it don't work, it was free and didn't take too long and was an easy fix. Just don't snug up too much.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

so... no cheater bar?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Is it leaking out of the right/front, near the corner(block/pan/timing cover)? Or more toward the middle, etc.?

Couldn't remember if you removed the pan, ......but I'm thinking you didn't, just pulled the cover and then re-gooped the pan under the cover, right?

Did you RTV each oil pan bolt that you removed before reinserting them? (Sorry, just asking, couldn't remember, lol).

Sorry to hear bout the leak, man...sux.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

nah, it happens.

it's towards the middle, so i'm thinking i might get away with re-tightening the bolts. i did drop the pan for the timing stuff, and just re-sealed for the rear main, but it's not leaking there. and it started before i did the trans, so i know that's not the issue. the next two days it's supposed to be nice out, so i'll look at it then. for now, eh... it's annoying but i can live with it.

worst case is i drop the pan and re-seal. not a big issue, but an afternoon shot, nonetheless.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hear about the leak. It can be quite annoying, even when you do the best that you can it still happens. At least it isnt a bad leak.

aviator

according to the fsm spec on the oil pan bolts is 52in-lbs fwiw

irab88

iTrader: (4)

thanky

(4.3 ft-lb for my reference)

irab88

iTrader: (4)

so remember that small exhaust leak i was going to fix today? well, it decided to give me hell. cruisin' down the highway on my way to work, and my exhaust goes from "mild leak" to "open headders" in two seconds.



whatever. sounded kinda cool while idling or at low speeds, but waaaay too loud any other time. got to work, and thankfully we have an awesome maintenance guy with bigger tools, so i re-bolted the trans clamp to the exhaust. better, but i still need to fix it. grr.

next order: headders.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

so, question. i'm searching, too, so this is just if anyone knows off-hand:

what's the difference between smog-legal and non smog-legal headers?

aviator

"smog legal" are CARB {California Air Resources Board} approved and legal for on road use in that state

CARB is cali's environment dept. concerned with air pollution prevention and control.

"non-smog legal" are not CARB approved and may only be used on racing/non-licensed vehicles ...

since many states use the CARB approval to determine if a product is legal for on road use you are best to get a CARB approved product if you can.

NON-Carb approved may be legal in your area...

personally IDK what the real difference is when it comes to headers.. as long as you keep the O2 sensor and CAT and "intake preheat capabilities *" [if your vehicle has that]...
*note this feature was common on carburated engines but is not generally found on fuel injected ones... those of you with 22r engines it is the 1 1/4" flex tube going from the bottom of the air cleaner intake horn to the heat shield on the exhaust manifold.

...some fuel injected engines have an EGR valve that bleeds a certain amt. of exhaust gas back into the intake to reduce emissions and improve combustion there needs to be a place to attach the hose on the header...
... as long as the header you pick allows for that then there should be no issue that I can see...

If you have the 2.4 I believe Hedman still makes a header for that mill at a reasonable price
not sure about any others that are available at a price that does'nt break the bank...

RBX

there is an exhaust gas recirculate on later and Cali models. It's those extra holes at the top of each exhaust port. Do you have them? should be a pipe connecting the block off plates shown here...i think.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

yeah, i know about the egr, thanks. i didn't know if there were any physical differences. if it's only those holes, then i'm just gonna get smog-legal ones.

thanks guys.

headman doesn't have "toyota" listed under makes. i'm looking at lce's or the rock-rippers. if there's a better alternative, i'm all ears

irab88

iTrader: (4)

http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/20-22header.php

i'm liking the tri-y configuration. dt's are like that, too

RBX

I have read bad things about northwest, I don't have any experience, just do a search before you order.
Before you order make sure you are getting a header with the characteristics you want. Pipe length and the order in which they collect are important. Actually, your cam specification(valve lift and duration) play a key role in how your header should be designed.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

jeez, too many variables

i may just live with my current header for a while until i decide to get something else.

also, i have a good lead on an 84 single cab, maroon, sr5, $950 (propane candidate)

RBX

Is it 4wd?