irab88's 1993 PickUp Build-Up Thread
#1983
i have parts, just no time.
trailer: i have most of the stuff to coat the roof and make it watertight. now i just need a decent weekend to do it.
job: yes. full time at a different location. doing awesome stuff. can't say no more
trans update: custom triple sticks arrived yesterday... now to install them
the rods are opposite-threaded, meaning i can just twist the rod to adjust
three lever bases, one for each lever (4.7, 2.28, 4wd)
general layout
trailer: i have most of the stuff to coat the roof and make it watertight. now i just need a decent weekend to do it.
job: yes. full time at a different location. doing awesome stuff. can't say no more
trans update: custom triple sticks arrived yesterday... now to install them
the rods are opposite-threaded, meaning i can just twist the rod to adjust
three lever bases, one for each lever (4.7, 2.28, 4wd)
general layout
#1984
so far today...
notes to rory:
-i flipped the hole sizes on the 2/4wd lever, so that all levers are down for road use
-the threaded tabs are long. they can be cut down ~.5"
-out of the linkages you sent, i used the 10.5" ones and the 5.5" one. they can all be cut down ~1.5"
-my trans tunnel is tight. i can't fully install this without a body lift, tunnel mods, or dropping the tranny ~.75"
-there is a small amount of play on the shoulder bolts. a washer took care of that
-i like the reverse-threaded linkages. easy to fine-tune.
-the shifters (on top of the low gear boxes) can only go in if they're lined up in the middle
-the rod ends fit nicely either inside or outside the shifter
-there is less throw from the shifters than i thought
notes to rory:
-i flipped the hole sizes on the 2/4wd lever, so that all levers are down for road use
-the threaded tabs are long. they can be cut down ~.5"
-out of the linkages you sent, i used the 10.5" ones and the 5.5" one. they can all be cut down ~1.5"
-my trans tunnel is tight. i can't fully install this without a body lift, tunnel mods, or dropping the tranny ~.75"
-there is a small amount of play on the shoulder bolts. a washer took care of that
-i like the reverse-threaded linkages. easy to fine-tune.
-the shifters (on top of the low gear boxes) can only go in if they're lined up in the middle
-the rod ends fit nicely either inside or outside the shifter
-there is less throw from the shifters than i thought
Last edited by irab88; 08-04-2012 at 09:50 AM.
#1986
it looks even better when painted
the base bracket
and the shifters installed. today was a lot of metalwork, tomorrow is just bolting things in. woo.
a note about the crossmember: since i don't have a body lift, and since hammering the tunnel proved to be difficult and ineffective, i decided to drop the crossmember about .75 inches. but instead of dropping the whole thing, i just cut a sliver out of each side and dropped the mounting base. i'll let y'all know tomorrow when i get it all squared away.
the base bracket
and the shifters installed. today was a lot of metalwork, tomorrow is just bolting things in. woo.
a note about the crossmember: since i don't have a body lift, and since hammering the tunnel proved to be difficult and ineffective, i decided to drop the crossmember about .75 inches. but instead of dropping the whole thing, i just cut a sliver out of each side and dropped the mounting base. i'll let y'all know tomorrow when i get it all squared away.
#1987
got the thing running today. but there's still a little left:
-the metal bezel around the shift boots needs to be fully screwed down. easy enough to do for a weekend project.
-the exhaust doesn't fit right. the part between the headers and cat won't fit with the o2 sensor where it is. i'll take it to the shop this week.
-the front driveshaft cv joint hits the marlin dual-case adapter. i would have taken care of it today, but ran out of time before the storm rolled in
anyway, pictures!
levers
linkages up top. this is before i raised the trans
skip a few hours. here are the levers in their final spot. the trans shifter had to be hevily re-worked to clearance the other shifters, the radio, and the cup holders. but, it's in there, and and it works
i took about 2" out because of the short-shifter spacer. it has a very short throw compared to stock (imagine grabbing the shifter halfway down)
boots! i'm going to make a cloth cover that looks a little better that will go over top
4th, high, high, 2wd
4th, low, low, 2wd clearance (measure twice, cut fifty times)
rear driveshaft fits like it was meant to go there
exhaust gap
nub (very center of the picture) that needs some grinding
took it for a drive around the block. oh. em. gee. i love gears! for sure i'm going to break something, but for now: wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
-the metal bezel around the shift boots needs to be fully screwed down. easy enough to do for a weekend project.
-the exhaust doesn't fit right. the part between the headers and cat won't fit with the o2 sensor where it is. i'll take it to the shop this week.
-the front driveshaft cv joint hits the marlin dual-case adapter. i would have taken care of it today, but ran out of time before the storm rolled in
anyway, pictures!
levers
linkages up top. this is before i raised the trans
skip a few hours. here are the levers in their final spot. the trans shifter had to be hevily re-worked to clearance the other shifters, the radio, and the cup holders. but, it's in there, and and it works
i took about 2" out because of the short-shifter spacer. it has a very short throw compared to stock (imagine grabbing the shifter halfway down)
boots! i'm going to make a cloth cover that looks a little better that will go over top
4th, high, high, 2wd
4th, low, low, 2wd clearance (measure twice, cut fifty times)
rear driveshaft fits like it was meant to go there
exhaust gap
nub (very center of the picture) that needs some grinding
took it for a drive around the block. oh. em. gee. i love gears! for sure i'm going to break something, but for now: wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
#1991
start here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51940044
#1999
triple levers are twin sticks with a crawl box:
1) 1:1-n-2.28
2) 1:1-n-4.70
3) 2wd-4wd
the rear disconnect allows me to run the t-case in 4wd with the rear disconnected, making it front wheel drive. the neutral in the crawl boxes is like the neutral in the tranny; it puts the whole driveline in neutral.
1) 1:1-n-2.28
2) 1:1-n-4.70
3) 2wd-4wd
the rear disconnect allows me to run the t-case in 4wd with the rear disconnected, making it front wheel drive. the neutral in the crawl boxes is like the neutral in the tranny; it puts the whole driveline in neutral.