Grego92's Retroactive and Current Build Up
08-16-2013 | 11:58 PM
#202
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Yeah, people get wise quick as soon as they see high demand for the product.
Wire gages are fine; you only need thick wires for the power and ground.
08-17-2013 | 07:38 AM
#203
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I've had H4's for a little while now...go back a page.
Off to go help my buddy with the 5VZ....but hopefully get a chance to put the wiring in today.
08-17-2013 | 09:41 AM
#204
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From: Vernon Hills, IL
This harness doesn't look very heavy duty. Probably better than stock. I went with 80w / 100w bulbs in my hella housings so I went with thicker gauge wiring harness.
Saw a post on the open forum and after digesting it for a few days I figured out this is what Ray (RAD4Runner) was doing! I'm a little slow electrical wise! 
I figured out this would compliment my new Hella lights. So I checked with one of our local yotatech electrical engineer gurus (Ray - RAD4Runner) the other day to make sure this was what I needed, and then ordered it yesterday...and it came in today! Fast shipping, but granted the guy is located only about 45 minutes from me.
Here's the post, scroll toward the bottom where "RSR" posted his ebay harness find:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131.../#post52106589
Here's the ebay post, Manufacturer Part Number: 7X6-CR-9003-1. The price is now $49.99??? I got it for $29.99 and $7.70 shipping,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330813121438...84.m1497.l2649
It's seems pretty easy, everything plug and play, I labeled the photo to show where everything goes.
Some initial notes, the power wire is 12 AWG, the rest of the wires seem to be 14 or 16 AWG, the in-line 30amp power fuse holder is cheap (but I'm snipping that off and connecting to my fuse distribution box), the end connectors for power and ground are kind of thin but at least protected by heat shrink wrap (I'll probably snip them off and put better ones on and also solder the connections before putting heat shrink wrap on again.
Hopefully get a chance tomorrow to hook it up.
I figured out this would compliment my new Hella lights. So I checked with one of our local yotatech electrical engineer gurus (Ray - RAD4Runner) the other day to make sure this was what I needed, and then ordered it yesterday...and it came in today! Fast shipping, but granted the guy is located only about 45 minutes from me.Here's the post, scroll toward the bottom where "RSR" posted his ebay harness find:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131.../#post52106589
Here's the ebay post, Manufacturer Part Number: 7X6-CR-9003-1. The price is now $49.99??? I got it for $29.99 and $7.70 shipping,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330813121438...84.m1497.l2649
It's seems pretty easy, everything plug and play, I labeled the photo to show where everything goes.
Some initial notes, the power wire is 12 AWG, the rest of the wires seem to be 14 or 16 AWG, the in-line 30amp power fuse holder is cheap (but I'm snipping that off and connecting to my fuse distribution box), the end connectors for power and ground are kind of thin but at least protected by heat shrink wrap (I'll probably snip them off and put better ones on and also solder the connections before putting heat shrink wrap on again.
Hopefully get a chance tomorrow to hook it up.
08-17-2013 | 11:11 AM
#205
08-25-2013 | 09:59 PM
#206
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So i finally got around to installing my headlight harness...very easy, a few hours if you take your time and take some time tucking/zip tie the wires away. BUT I got a problem.
I turn my lights on, and BOTH my relays click/move. I verified this because the relays have clear housings so I can actually see them move when I have my wife turn the lights on. I'm no electro master but I'm assuming both my highs and lows are turning on at the same time since it's super bright and I can definitely tell my high beams are on.
If I push or pull back on the combo switch which turns my high beams on permanently or temporarily, nothing changes, the lights stay the same level/brightness/intensity.
I looked at 4crawlers site and although my exact problem doesn't seem to be listed, the only thing I can come up with is that my combo switch is dirty by having some shavings from the connection interfering? And according to his site the relays are sensitive enough to catch this fault, whereas the stalk system isn't?
I sent a PM to Ray for some help, but in case he is busy anybody else have an opinion on what may be causing this?
I turn my lights on, and BOTH my relays click/move. I verified this because the relays have clear housings so I can actually see them move when I have my wife turn the lights on. I'm no electro master but I'm assuming both my highs and lows are turning on at the same time since it's super bright and I can definitely tell my high beams are on.
If I push or pull back on the combo switch which turns my high beams on permanently or temporarily, nothing changes, the lights stay the same level/brightness/intensity.
I looked at 4crawlers site and although my exact problem doesn't seem to be listed, the only thing I can come up with is that my combo switch is dirty by having some shavings from the connection interfering? And according to his site the relays are sensitive enough to catch this fault, whereas the stalk system isn't?
I sent a PM to Ray for some help, but in case he is busy anybody else have an opinion on what may be causing this?
08-25-2013 | 10:23 PM
#207
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So i finally got around to installing my headlight harness...very easy, a few hours if you take your time and take some time tucking/zip tie the wires away. BUT I got a problem.
I turn my lights on, and BOTH my relays click/move. I verified this because the relays have clear housings so I can actually see them move when I have my wife turn the lights on. I'm no electro master but I'm assuming both my highs and lows are turning on at the same time since it's super bright and I can definitely tell my high beams are on.
If I push or pull back on the combo switch which turns my high beams on permanently or temporarily, nothing changes, the lights stay the same level/brightness/intensity.
I looked at 4crawlers site and although my exact problem doesn't seem to be listed, the only thing I can come up with is that my combo switch is dirty by having some shavings from the connection interfering? And according to his site the relays are sensitive enough to catch this fault, whereas the stalk system isn't?
I sent a PM to Ray for some help, but in case he is busy anybody else have an opinion on what may be causing this?
I turn my lights on, and BOTH my relays click/move. I verified this because the relays have clear housings so I can actually see them move when I have my wife turn the lights on. I'm no electro master but I'm assuming both my highs and lows are turning on at the same time since it's super bright and I can definitely tell my high beams are on.
If I push or pull back on the combo switch which turns my high beams on permanently or temporarily, nothing changes, the lights stay the same level/brightness/intensity.
I looked at 4crawlers site and although my exact problem doesn't seem to be listed, the only thing I can come up with is that my combo switch is dirty by having some shavings from the connection interfering? And according to his site the relays are sensitive enough to catch this fault, whereas the stalk system isn't?
I sent a PM to Ray for some help, but in case he is busy anybody else have an opinion on what may be causing this?
I'm wondering if they made that harness for switched-ground light control that we have on our 4Runners. Will double check the link on ebay.
Meanwhile, mind posting good resolution pic showing the 3 connectors and the power & ground leads so I can illustrate how to check the harness?
08-25-2013 | 10:37 PM
#208
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I checked the ebay link, and it's specific for my 92' pickup. I'll get photos up tomorrow at lunch time. But I copied this picture from the ebay link....look how the relays are screwed together and then mounted with a bracket. There was no screw or bracket in my kit, but would that matter? are they grounding together or something?
Thanks for replying quickly Ray, I'm in the middle of replacing my crank pulley on my car and now this one I can't drive at night because the constant high beams....Now I gotta drive my gas guzzling frontier.
Thanks for replying quickly Ray, I'm in the middle of replacing my crank pulley on my car and now this one I can't drive at night because the constant high beams....Now I gotta drive my gas guzzling frontier.
Last edited by Grego92; 08-25-2013 at 10:45 PM.
08-25-2013 | 10:46 PM
#209
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I checked the ebay link, and it's specific for my 92' pickup. I'll get photos up tomorrow at lunch time. But I copied this picture from the ebay link....look how the relays are screwed together and then mounted with a bracket. There was no screw or bracket in my kit, but would that matter? are they grounding together or something?
Thanks for replying quickly Ray, I'm in the middle of replacing my crank pulley on that car and now this one I can't drive at night because the constant high beams....Now I gotta drive my gas guzzling frontier.
Thanks for replying quickly Ray, I'm in the middle of replacing my crank pulley on that car and now this one I can't drive at night because the constant high beams....Now I gotta drive my gas guzzling frontier.
Yes, Like I thought earlier- it is for 4runners and your truck as well. I'm suspecting that something in the wiring is energizing both relays at the same time. I'll verify pin-outs on connectors on my truck tomorrow and post test points ASAP. You should be able to quickly revert to stock wiring by reconnecting your bulbs back to stock connectors. Just remove the fuse on the upgrade harness for safety.
08-26-2013 | 08:56 PM
#210
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RAY....STOPPPPP, I fixed it! 
One of my so-called "mods" was the culprit
Do you remember me doing this retarded thing?
putting a 4runner column/key light in and hooking it up to the headlight wire on the ignition column?? I was going to remove my combo switch and came across it, I just had a intuition that this might be causing something stupid since it was a stupid mod. A matter of fact it was you who told me I shouldn't hook up anything to that wire and do it some place else, as well as the door buzzer thing. Of course I never followed up on your advice and here it was biting me back in the ass! 
So anyhow I just snipped all the wires and took the wiring out and resealed the original wire with liquid electrical tape, fixed! 
Anyhow, lesson learned, no more stupid electrical mods without checking with you or someone else who is competent in electrical stuff first Amazing that tapping into the wrong place can cause something else down the line.
I hope you didn't waste too much of your time looking into this, apologies.
One of my so-called "mods" was the culprit
Do you remember me doing this retarded thing?
putting a 4runner column/key light in and hooking it up to the headlight wire on the ignition column?? I was going to remove my combo switch and came across it, I just had a intuition that this might be causing something stupid since it was a stupid mod. A matter of fact it was you who told me I shouldn't hook up anything to that wire and do it some place else, as well as the door buzzer thing. Of course I never followed up on your advice and here it was biting me back in the ass! So anyhow I just snipped all the wires and took the wiring out and resealed the original wire with liquid electrical tape, fixed! 
Anyhow, lesson learned, no more stupid electrical mods without checking with you or someone else who is competent in electrical stuff first
Amazing that tapping into the wrong place can cause something else down the line.I hope you didn't waste too much of your time looking into this, apologies.
Last edited by Grego92; 08-26-2013 at 09:02 PM.
08-26-2013 | 09:25 PM
#212
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LOL! Yeah, I remember. So that connection you put there was somehow jumping together the control inputs to both relays which are supposed to ground only one relay at a time: grounding pin 1 turns on low beam relay, grounding pin 2 turns on high beam relay.
No worries, all I had done was verify pin-outs of the H4 connector which I needed to do anyway.
Yeah - clean and robust is the only way to do mods for long-term
It's still good to have that lighted ignition key, though. However, biggest benefit from it is when you first get in the car and trying to find the switch in the dark. That would require a circuit that comes on when you first open the door, and before you even have the key in ignition. First thing that comes to mind is a timer circuit that:
1) Comes on when you open the door (controlled by door open detect switch)
2) Stays on for a few minutes to give you chance to find the keyhole.
3) Most logically would tap power from dome light circuit
Cheers, guys!
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 08-26-2013 at 09:37 PM.
08-26-2013 | 10:14 PM
#213
Grego, .....
I think in my Classified Ad, if I'm not mistaken, I have a timer delayed light such as the one he's speaking of. You can have it.... if you want it of course. However, I have to look back at the Ad to make sure it's not something else. I know I have a Auto Trans Indicator Light as well.... The kind on the console of earlier 2nd Gens? Something told me to grab them and within 2 hours they were all gone but one, 5 of them, haha. I guess they get fried from drinks, etc. Anyway, lemme look.... maybe you can do one after all? Ian did this, didn't he? (Irab88).... ALMOST positive he did. I thought this was on ALL 3rd Gen PU's and 2nd Gen 4Runners, as the key is in the dash, as opposed to mine which is on the column.
Hmmmmm. Could it be hooked to the Buzzer timer???????
I think in my Classified Ad, if I'm not mistaken, I have a timer delayed light such as the one he's speaking of. You can have it.... if you want it of course. However, I have to look back at the Ad to make sure it's not something else. I know I have a Auto Trans Indicator Light as well.... The kind on the console of earlier 2nd Gens? Something told me to grab them and within 2 hours they were all gone but one, 5 of them, haha. I guess they get fried from drinks, etc. Anyway, lemme look.... maybe you can do one after all? Ian did this, didn't he? (Irab88).... ALMOST positive he did. I thought this was on ALL 3rd Gen PU's and 2nd Gen 4Runners, as the key is in the dash, as opposed to mine which is on the column.
Hmmmmm. Could it be hooked to the Buzzer timer???????
08-26-2013 | 10:17 PM
#214
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Mark, it's kind of difficult to see an improvement in my driveway because it's automatic timer lighted, but I did notice the H4's to be brighter/whiter than without the harness. I was just so glad to get it fixed I didn't bother driving off somewhere to check it out further.
Ray, I'll look into that timer switch down the road, but I'll run my plan by you before executing!!
Ray, I'll look into that timer switch down the road, but I'll run my plan by you before executing!!
08-26-2013 | 10:19 PM
#215
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Thanks Mark, if you got one I'll put it to use! I'll have to check Ian's build thread and see how he did it....then run it by Ray for good measure! hahahhaa!
Last edited by Grego92; 08-26-2013 at 10:20 PM.
08-26-2013 | 10:29 PM
#217
I didn't see you do that in your build.... I didn't think I missed anything... But, zooming in on your pic...... Looks like that's already what you used, right? Sorry if that's the case, if I am just posting what you already have, hahaha.
08-27-2013 | 07:15 AM
#218
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Yeah, that's what I already have, I thought you meant the timer switch/relay that Ray was talking about, so there's a delay of a 3-4 seconds before it turns off so you have enough time to put the key in.
08-27-2013 | 08:01 AM
#219
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Grego,
Look for the green wire I mentioned that powers taillights. Should be somewhere on my deck light mod write-up, too.
09-27-2013 | 12:02 PM
#220
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Just a little update of a 10 day trip up to the Mammoth Lakes area. Nothing concerning my truck other than it performed flawless and gave me a 100% confidence in my rebuild. The steep grade changes, distance, and load all had me worried but this was the test I needed to verify I built this motor correctly. Started out at sea level and went up to over 10,000 feet of elevation, drove a total of 900 miles, and was loaded down with 10 days of camping/fishing gear.
Camp setup at Red's Meadows, see my "flex" in the rear
had to level out the bed so I could sleep!
Someone beat me to bed....
Much hiking and walking tired this guy out every day!
Fishing day trip to Rock Creek Lake
Was able to calibrate my altimeter on this trip...
Camp setup at Red's Meadows, see my "flex" in the rear
had to level out the bed so I could sleep!
Someone beat me to bed....
Much hiking and walking tired this guy out every day!
Fishing day trip to Rock Creek Lake
Was able to calibrate my altimeter on this trip...
