Wow! So that's why the auto's suck taking off from a stop.

It is amazing how having an auto changes the effective / usefull gearing.

 

The real thing that brings the suck is the OD.
.705:1 OD compared to the 5 speeds at 0.85 OD. That is why 5.71s are recommended for 35s with the A/T. That is a 15% difference in overdrives and why the A/T constantly searches for 3rd gear when cruising.

 

I've heard that the fluid issue can be worse with the gear drive t-case adapter. It seems that the fluid can run into the rear of the adapter (the old reduction housing) and rob fluid from the transmission. I don't plan on getting crazy with this 4Runner, so I won't be driving around on my side . I have heard of people adding an extra qt of fluid to combat this issue.

 

Another idea would be to run a transmisson external filter inline with the transmission cooler it adds extra capacity to the transmission.

 

The capacity isn't the problem, per se, it's the fact that the 'correct' amount of fluid leaves a space for it to drain into (and out of the trans) causing the trans to go immobile. I hope that made sense.

 

I'm glad I have the turbo, it does pretty good most the time. If it was a normal 22re I would have to get rid of the auto, especially at the altitude and terrain I live in.

 

I have thought about adding an extra cooler, but mainly for extra cooling at low crawling speeds (although the extra fluid capacity doesn't hurt).

 

I finished up the exhaust today, I had been waiting until after I installed the lift. I wanted to make sure there was going to be no clearance issues.

I ran it out the side, rather than the back, in hopes that it will cut down on exhaust fumes in the cab.

All tacked together

 

All welded up and done

 

great build thread man. nice welds

 

Thanks!

 

That should reduce some backpressure

My exhaust dumps in the same spot, works well! I have snagged it on a couple of rocks but nothing major yet.

 

The whole system works really well with the turbo. It reduced the backpressure a bunch, yet it's not loud. The exhaust exit is really close to the body, so it shouldn't be very easy to hit it on stuff (but not impossible).

 

Work has been super crazy, so I took the weekend off to relax a little. I also figured if I went to the shop I would end up working all day, instead of working on the 4Runner. So instead, I did a bunch of research and ordered up a couple parts (translate to drinking a couple beers and hanging out on the internet all day ).

When I completed the SAS I found that two tie rod ends were shot (one on the tie rod, one on drag link), and I replaced them. Last week I noticed that the other tie rod is now bad, so I ordered two more. That will replace all of them. I figure that with the hydro assist I will be replacing them a lot more, probably once a year.

With the tie rods, I ordered my shocks. I went with the 5125 Bilstiens, I'll put those in the front and move my old Skyjackers (that are in the front now)to the back. Once I can afford it I'll get another pair for the rear or get some 5150's for the front and move the 5125's to the back.

 

Just an FYI. 5150s aren't all their cracked up to be. I warranty them 10:1 compared to a 5125. The top bolt is only a 5/16" bolt and shears way too often. Seen literally dozens of them broken. Seen reservoirs broken off of them too.

Save your $$$ and just stick with the 5125s. Plus that way you get the bling on both ends. The 5150s are a cheap painted shock body and will rust. The 5125s are brushing aluminum and won't rust.

 

Thanks Scotty, that's good to know. I've seen a bunch of the 5150's leak oil, but I thought that was just an isolated batch.

 

I also ordered up the manual transmission shifter. I was going to use the AWshifting kit but he has quit making them, and has yet to offer it as a kit. After a bunch of searching I also found issues with ghost shifting and other bugs.

Instead, I went with THIS rail shifter. It seems a lot more simple, and cheaper. Everyone that was having issues with their AWShifting, and replaced them with this unit, really seemed to like it. They also said he had good customer service, so I thought I would give it a shot. I also have to thank hayes for pointing the product out

Since I am converting over to gear drve transfer case, I plan to mount the unit were the stock 4wd shifter is now.

 

Now that is a good idea. When I am ready to get this product, I was also thinking about asking him to make another on for the transfer case (since it is just another 2 speed electronically controlled transmission) so I could get rid of the t-case shifter.

What are you going to do with your crawl box, when you downgrade to a single t-case?

 

Yea, I think it will work out well. It should be able to set almost all the way in the console, it will look pretty clean. I bet, since there are only two speeds for the t-case, that you could wire up a regular switch that controls the t-case. That would save a bunch of room in the console and allow room for the tranny shifter.

I'm going to sell the dual case adapter and crawl box together. I'll send you a PM on the details.

I'm also going to try to re-use my old crossmember/skidplate, I bought it from Marlin years ago (but it's the same design as the current Trail-gear crossmember) and I really like how it works. I figure with some extra plate and supports it would do a good job of protecting the tranny as well. I will have to cut it all apart to get everything lined up the way it needs to be but the final product should be worth it. Here's a couple paint pictures that show what I'm planning.

 

2 speeds, 3 settings...

2wd, 4hi, 4lo...

You would need a 3 stage switch. Depending on your price, I might just buy your crawl box setup.