coryc85

Picked up the loan-a-tool gauge set from AutoZone last night. It's a really good quality Mastercool set. Vac'd the system for 30mins, let it sit for 15 min to check that it held vac, then vac'd it for another 20 min or so just because.

I filled 1 can of r134...I took it on a quick test drive and it was cool but not cold. I did not want to overfill, so I left it alone to do some reading. What a difference a good set of gauges makes though.

I found this Toyota service bulletin about converting to R134: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4B...zJUZXdzUG9RT3c

That document says that the 88 4Runner 22re takes 700 grams, which is about 24 oz of r134. So that would be 2 cans. I'll see if I can throw another can in there. It does not mention pressures, so I don't know what the pressure readings should be.

EDIT: Looked at some pressure-temp charts. This stuff is confusing, but the way I interpret it is that my static pressures, engine off, should be near ambient temp in F. I'll check that tonight before I put the second can in. Then you measure the pressures with stable engine speed and good air movement on the condenser. According to some info I read, I should end up somewhere around 30psi on the low side and 2 to 2.2 times ambient temp on the high side. Man, this is tougher than I thought!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on getting your AC starting to work. Cant be far off now. If it is holding I would guess you just need a little more. Congrats again.

coryc85

Terry - thanks, this AC has been a looong battle with me. Hopefully it keeps working for a while.

Here's a shot of the gauges showing my static pressures.


The statics were fine, so I went ahead and put almost a whole 'nother can of r134 in there. I could only get my low side pressure down to around 48 or 50 psi, which is supposed to correlate to the evaporator temp. So in other words, the air coming off my evaporator is supposed to be 50 degrees. I did not measure it, but I did check the temp in my center vents and got down to around 67.5 degrees, and ambient outside was about 83 deg, so I'll take that. I will say though, that to me the car is cool, but not COLD.

One more thing I noticed today is that the vent under my steering wheel is losing a lot of air around the body of the tube. So I think I'll pull that air tube and see how I can seal it up so that more of the air blows on me. Also, I think I might wrap the air tubes with some kind of insulating tape so that more of the coolness makes it out the vents to my face.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I would guess that the pipe above the glove box may have not gotten seated to well or incorrectly if it has ever been taken out possibly causing no pressure under the steering wheel vent. Also the foam on some of the connections in the vents get worn and not givin a good seal.

The easiest one to check is the one above the glove box. It will have letters like "PXE" or something. Remove you glovebox door and it is right there. Only about 6 inches long.

I have thought of the insulation tape myself. It has to help.

Zelephant

It's been a while since my AC worked. I will definitely be using this thread as a reference to bring it back to life when the time comes.

coryc85

Thanks guys. It is so good to have AC again, I hope it keeps working. Everything I read says you should be able to get the low side down to around 35 psi, which would put the evaporator near the freezing point of water, but I could only get down to just under 50psi. I don't know if that means my compressor just can't do it or what. There is no sight glass in my drier, not that I could tell anything by that anyway, so I guess I'm just going to live with it the way it is.

I think now I'll focus on closing up the vent tube connection points better, that one under the steering wheel is clearly blowing air out all around the vent connection. And as Terry mentioned, I'll check the one above the glove box. I'm sure whatever foam insulation that was there has disintegrated. I'll have to see about some kind of insulation tape too.

The other thing is that the rubber channel that my driver's window rides in is ripped right in the upper rear corner and I can hear/feel warm air blowing in as I drive. And some of that Peel n Seal would probably help keep the warm air out and cold air in....the fun never ends.

coryc85

Has anyone replaced the window channel rubber? It's the rubber piece that sits inside the metal window frame and the window rides up and down in. Mine is torn right in the rear upper corner and on the highway all I hear is wind noise and warm air on my head. Never noticed it too much with the windows down, but with my AC working I can finally roll up the windows!

Anyway, ToyotaPartZone has RUN, FR DOOR GLASS 68141-89108, which says that it fits my truck according to the VIN. I really need this piece, I have vent windows, so I'm not sure if the VIN number takes into account the vent versus non vent windows. Has anybody ordered this part before?

Need to also get my AC idle up VSV working again. I unhooked all that crap a few years ago.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I havent ordered one, I am always looking for a good in the boneyards but may have to order one soon. One thing that makes life easier and helps save your seals is this spray. Works great.

coryc85

Thanks for that tip Terry, I'll find some of that Silicon Lube. I don't know if you're in the mode of selling any of your parts, but do you have a gray center vent and I need the rubber floor plug that goes in the hole in the floor right behind the drivers seat and another one (I think they are the same) that goes in the hole in the bottom of the rear cargo spot where the jack/washer bottle are. If you want to part with any of that, let me know. I just looked over the parting out section and wasn't too much recent activity on the first gens.

I'm gonna call ToyotaPartZone tomorrow and see if they can verify that window channel for me.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You needing the one just above the heater controls? I have some of them. None gray, red and blue I think. Just get some interior paint and change color that way. It will be 2 weeks til I get back from Guatamala but I can get them out to you. I leaving tomorrow.

I have several plugs, will just need to see which one you are needing. I can look at the wifeys truck for that. Mine is still at dads place.

When I get back I am changing the interior to gray on my truck so could change it for you. I wont have time to get to it today but will when I get back.

coryc85

So I'm working on sealing up the air tubes. I put some household foam insulation tape (adhesive backed foam) around the little crotch vent, and it helped, but I think I need to cut something out of a large sheet of foam instead of using little strips to make a square around the vent hole. I have some foam at work that I can use, so I'll shoot some pics of it this weekend.

Next, the evaporator box must not be well sealed b/c I can feel cool air behind the glovebox. Looking at the FSM, I see it must have some kind of foam seal on the left and right sides. Does anyone know if I can remove the lower part of the box without removing the evaporator core itself?

coryc85

A while back I ordered some 1" bore wheel cylinders from Rock Auto, so I threw those in the rear tonight. The truck stops fairly well, but I still think I'd like to get the V6 calipers for up front.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have a spare evaporator core and will look at when I get home and see if it can be removed without taking everything else loose, but that will be a week from now if you still have any questions about it.

Brakes are a good thing,lol,,, looking forward to V6 brake upgrade myself.

coryc85

Terry - thanks, much appreciated.

Ok, in my efforts to keep the interior cool, I think one of my next steps is going to be some insulation/sound deadening. I found this stuff last night at Lowe's sitting right next to the Peel n Seal...it's called Tite Seal and it was $13 for a 9" by 33' roll, versus $18 for the 6" x 25' Peel n Seal. Almost twice the square inches for $5 less. It appears to be identical to the more expensive stuff, metallic film with an asphalt mastic backing. The transmission tunnel gets really hot, so I'll put some there, plus maybe under the seats, under the back seat, inside the doors, and inside the rear cargo area on the inside of the fenders.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I havent seen that brand, but it does make a difference on the noise level. These trucks are a little noisey without some kind of sound deadner.

coryc85

Terry - yeah I'm hoping to cut down on the road noise a little bit. I have no carpet in the truck and it's tough to hear the radio when I'm going 65. I'm also kindof hoping the insulation will keep a little bit of the cool in and the heat out, maybe help my poor little AC keep up with the summer temps here. I don't really want to put carpet back in the truck...I think I saw some vinyl flooring that was custom fit for these trucks that I might buy. If I put this insulation down on the floor and tranny tunnel, I'd probably want to cover it with something....need ideas.

coryc85

Put down some of the Tite Seal on the passenger side floorboard area. I started there because my thinking is that if I keep that floor area cool, then the AC will suck in cooler air. I used about half the roll. I'll get the driver side next, and then move to the rear seat. Seriously considering ordering one of those vinyl floor kits.



Also, I cut a small piece of foam up and made a gasket for the crotch vent. Hopefully this keeps some of the air from blowing out the sides.

Zelephant

My 4Runner has a factory vinyl interior. You may be able to find a factory vinyl floor off a parts truck if you go that route. Would probably be cheaper than a kit.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I like how that is one larger piece over the Peel and Seal which is 6 inch wide strips. I didnt see any of that brand when I did mine or would of used it for the trunk area. I really feel it makes a difference on the noise and it did seem to help this past winter in keeping the truck warm.

coryc85

Thanks man, I will definitely check around to see if I can find a good used one before I buy. The aftermarket kit looks to be about $170 shipped for only the front and rear floorboards, no cargo area...a little pricey.

Terry - yeah, I liked that about it, and of course it was cheaper. Can't wait to finish the rest of the truck with it. Speaking of finishing, my driver side floorboard has always had a little leak somewhere up above the dash that lets a little water run down and sit there by the body mount hole. Causes a little rust over in that corner. I want to fix that before I stick the Tite Seal down and I need to stop the leak first of all. So I looked up under the front driver side fender and I see this hole in the inner fender. You can see it's right in front of where the wire harness passes through the inner fender.



I've never done any bodywork before. Is this something that I can easily weld a patch over? It doesn't have to be pretty, just keep the water out. I guess I'll need to pull that fender off there...ugh I do NOT like doing body work.

I finally bought the last piece of my brake upgrade today. 4 Piston calipers from the V6 4Runner. I should be able to put them on next weekend.