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Good job Cory! I bet you can do this as a roadside repair on the trails now if need be.
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Second that! I wish I had the skill and resources to do that kind of work.
Thanks guys. This is messy, dirty, sweaty work. I'm 41, so laying on the concrete for hours at a time hurts a lot more than it used to. I feel like I'm slow. There are guys here on YT who could pull the motor in a half a day. I can barely get the transfer case down in that amount of time. As for resources and skill, I'm lacking in both areas!
I'm still waiting for my throwout bearing and input\output seals to show up, I did go to Walmart and buy several cans of brake cleaner and some more synthetic gear oil. That stuff is pricey, I think it was like $11 per bottle. I plan to put synthetic back into the transfer case and transmission. I might put conventional into the front diff for 2 reasons, 1. it doesn't really get used much, and 2. if I put a locker in the front this year then I'll be draining that fluid anyway, so it might not be in there long.
T... I'm 41...
... synthetic gear oil. That stuff is pricey, I think it was like $11 per bottle. I plan to put synthetic back into the transfer case and transmission...
I might put conventional into the front diff ....
41 is young!
Re Gear Oil:
I also put synthetic in transmission and transfer case, conventional in diffs. My reasons:
1) Tranny is always used, both tranny and transfer case are exposed to engine heat, and in case any leaks (if tha is even possible?) develop between tranny and transfer case, it's the same oil type.
2) Rear diff, although always used is cooler. Front diff not used often.
I had to buy Redline MT90 online. Yes, pricey but If I'm not mistaken (FSM just says "Inspect") there's should be no need to replace unless there's sign of deterioration - correct?
Haha... I remember when I thought 30 was old. I just turned 50 this year so I think 60 is young. 41 is still young. It is getting harder rolling around on a floor under a truck then it used to be.
I buy my gear oil in 5 gallon buckets. If you shop around and find a dealer that sells oil in bulk it is far cheaper. Ask some of your local mechanics where they buy their oil at and I think you will find a dealer in your area that will beat the retail stores. I change all of my fluids including gear oil. It might be more in my head but I feel it is sort of like flushing the diff and it is probably the original factory oil in there in most cases. After that I dont change the gear oil very often after that. I know about how old it is.
I bought redline online as well
i also put synthetic in the diffs, i think amisoil was the only one that makes the exact correct oil in synthetic, so that's what I went with, because I don't plan to change it again for years
Got some work done today. First I installed new input seal, then I used RTV on input cover and installed it. Bolts loc tited and torqued to 18 ft lbs.
I wire wheeled the bell housing and tranny and bolted them together. I pressed the new release bearing onto the hub and cleaned up clutch lever. Per the FSM, I greased the clutch lever pivot and the nose of the input cover where the hub rides and a bit of grease on face of release bearing. Bell housing to trans bolts torqued to 27 ft lbs.
That's about as clean as I can get it. My parts order got messed up and they sent wrong output seal, but I figured I'd install tranny into truck while I wait for replacement seal. As you can see I used my HF tranny jack and it went in like butter.
Output seal should be here in a few days. In meantime I'm going to try to get some of the little things done, put starter in, bleed slave cylinder.
HF jack works great. I seen some use a regular floor jack to install a transmission and that is dicey at best.
If you are going to use your HF jack to install the transfer case, I would suggest replacing the factory nut and bolt with a nut and bolt that you can remove easily with your fingers. To get the transfer case up, its weight is off centered and wants to roll one way. I strap it down tight but the buckle can get against the body to where you cant undo the buckle when you want to remove the jack. Once everything is bolted up, I remove the bolt holding the strap and then lower the jack.
Cory, where did you order the output seal from? the reason I ask is i purchased one from Marlin Crawler and had an issue with it so I want to see if you have the same thing happen. when I was getting ready to put the trans back in I had it standing on the face of the bellhouse. First I made sure the transfer case adapter was clean and ready for the seal. I grabbed a seal driver and pressed it in, it went in pretty easy. I put the seal driver away and went back to the trans to find the seal had worked its way out. I was kind of dumbfounded. So I pushed it in again and watched it slowly over the course of 30 seconds walk its way right out of the case. Tried one more time and same thing. So I glued it in place and left a 5 lb weight on it. That seemed to do it and its been fine for the last 1000 miles. I just never had a seal do that before and would like to know if I did something wrong. Has anyone else ever had an issue like this? I am not questioning the quality of Marlin's parts.
HF jack works great. I seen some use a regular floor jack to install a transmission and that is dicey at best.
If you are going to use your HF jack to install the transfer case, I would suggest replacing the factory nut and bolt with a nut and bolt that you can remove easily with your fingers. To get the transfer case up, its weight is off centered and wants to roll one way. I strap it down tight but the buckle can get against the body to where you cant undo the buckle when you want to remove the jack. Once everything is bolted up, I remove the bolt holding the strap and then lower the jack.
Terry - good tip on the strap bolt, I know exactly what you mean about the buckle hitting the body.
Originally Posted by ozzir70
Cory, where did you order the output seal from? the reason I ask is i purchased one from Marlin Crawler and had an issue with it so I want to see if you have the same thing happen. when I was getting ready to put the trans back in I had it standing on the face of the bellhouse. First I made sure the transfer case adapter was clean and ready for the seal. I grabbed a seal driver and pressed it in, it went in pretty easy. I put the seal driver away and went back to the trans to find the seal had worked its way out. I was kind of dumbfounded. So I pushed it in again and watched it slowly over the course of 30 seconds walk its way right out of the case. Tried one more time and same thing. So I glued it in place and left a 5 lb weight on it. That seemed to do it and its been fine for the last 1000 miles. I just never had a seal do that before and would like to know if I did something wrong. Has anyone else ever had an issue like this? I am not questioning the quality of Marlin's parts.
I ordered the OEM output seal from ToyotaPartsDeal.com. They sent me the wrong part, it was clearly marked with a different part number and it was physically too small to fit in the output seal spot. They made some kind of mistake, so I called them and they are shipping me a new one, probably be at least Mon or Tues before it arrives. I'll drive the seal in and then wait for a bit and check to see if it moves. Thanks for the info, I'd hate to have it back out on my while I'm busy installing the tcase. I did put the input seal in using the directions you and I talked about. I also wiped the inner lip and the input shaft with some grease to prevent dry startup and I'll do the same to the rear seal.
I fought with the slave cylinder bracket for about an hour and finally gave up at dinner time. I believe the little slave bracket goes connects to the lower starter bolt (actually a stud). As I was trying to install the nut on the stud, I dropped the nut and it went down inside the upper control arm. I tried fishing it out with a screwdriver, but all I did was push it further down in there. So goodbye nut. I dug around in my parts containers and found another nut that would thread onto the stud, but I'm upset that I now have a nut down inside my upper control arm. Next I started trying to install the hardline from that slave bracket to the slave cylinder itself. I guess mine has been tweaked over the years, and it was a battle. I've finally managed to get it threaded into both the slave cylinder and the bracket, but I had to remove the forward slave to tranny bolt to do so. Little things like this take the most time, putting the tranny in took about 15 minutes, this darn slave bracket took probably an hour and I still don't have both bolts in the slave cylinder.
The slave cylinder does connect to the starter bolt. I have seen several mechanics not connect it to the starter. It is a pain in the rear. I always connect mine to the starter like it came from the factory but it will work not being the correct way.
If you ever drop a bolt or nut, the control arm circle part is the first place to look at. I have seen several trucks that have nuts and bolts just sitting there.
A little bit of progress yesterday. I started with the transmission seal, I received a replacement from ToyotaPartsDeal for the incorrect part they sent me...but apparently 90311-38140 is NOT the correct part number for the transmission output seal. Frustrated, but I had other things to take care so I moved on to getting the slave cylinder all bolted up. Since my hardline was kindof tweaked I had a heck of a time getting it threaded into the slave and the soft line while the slave was mounted to the tranny, so I unbolted the slave, unclipped the softline from it's mount, threaded the hardline into both the slave and the soft line, then man-handled the slave into position while threading it's bolts into the tranny. Pushed the softline back into its position and got it clipped in.
Then I torqued all the tranny bolts, 53 ft-lbs on the 17mm bolts and 27 (I think) on the 14mm bolts. Then I supported the tranny with a jackstand and used my tranny jack to lift the front diff into place, got it all bolted up. I also extended my front diff breather while I was in there. I had a threaded barb and some fuel line hose, and extended it up into the engine bay on pass side.
That was really it for last night. This morning I went to the Toyota dealer and ordered the tranny output seal. The parts guy was not really super knowledgeable, but after I went thru the diagrams we settled on 90311-32009 and it will be here tomorrow. Hopefully this is the correct part.
Later today I want to get my shifters back in and start some cleanup, maybe bleed the slave cylinder, refill the front diff gear oil and the transmission.
Finally got the correct seal for tranny output. Pretty cool that it comes greased from factory.
With new seal in hand I made more progress today. Transfer case went in easy, then got my budbuilt cross member on. I filled the tcase with synthetic oil. The tranny fill plug is hard to get to, I should have filled out while on the ground. I ended up using a big syringe to fill out, worked but very tedious. Then I greased dshafts zerks and installed them. Stopped there for dinner. What's left is to bleed clutch slave, fill front diff with oil, install shifters and get top starter bolt tightened down.
Rob, no issues with the seal walking out. I tapped out in place, and then had to get my tcase loaded onto jack, so that took a few minutes. I looked at the seal as I was positioning tcase to stab in there and it was still seated. I did clean the seal mating surface with brake cleaner and wipe it down beforehand.
Finally all back together. Put in shifters, had my wife help me bleed the slave, and it started right up and drove and shifted nice. I might adjust the clutch pedal, I feel like it engages a bit too close to floor, but otherwise feels good. I put some electrical tape around the ripped rubber shifter boots for now, so I will order a new rubber boot here soon.
Space junk, yeah the auto trannies are still a mystery to me.
I used electrical tape to temporarily seal my rubber shifter boot, but that was a bad idea. Besides looking terrible, it just did not hold up to the shifter movement. I was about to order the replacement from City racer, but I checked the measurements he lists and they don't quite line up, especially the spacing between the tcase and trans boots. As far as I can tell, this boot is not available new from Toyota. eBay has several listed, around 70 bucks, but I'm hesitant to spend that on 30 year old rubber.
Has anyone had any success repairing a boot using either black RTV or liquid tape? Mine is now torn pretty good, so it might be beyond saving.
08-08-2017, 08:04 AM
