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ehatch - thank you for your encouragement. Yes exactly. I had a very hard time, if I dialed down the wire speed to like 2, the wire doesn't feed that well and I'd get arc-pause-arc-pause. If I turned it up to 3, I could get an arc but it blew holes. You obviously know this welder, I just watched a video where a guy converted his HF welder to DC by adding a bridge rectifier, if I had a free rectifier, I'd give it a shot, but I don't think I want to spend any money on this junk welder. I'd love to buy a Hobart Handler with a gas set up.
Got back from Orlando this afternoon, and I think I earned some garage time after a long weekend with the kids. First I went out and hit the fiberglass patch inside and outside withe some rubber undercoating...
Then I removed the back seat and vacuumed and cleaned the floor so I could put down the tite seal insulation...
I have to get another roll of tite seal to finish the drivers floor, but I might start putting in the rear piece of vinyl in the next few days.
Looks nice
whats the thoughts on the tite seal?
Sound deadening, insulation, waterproofing?
Second that.
Is tite seal like Peel n Seal with a thin layer of asphalt on aluminum foil? Very happy with my P&S. Just minimal bleeding of molten asphalt at the edges.
Yep, tite seal and peel n seal are probably the exact same thing, I just found the tite seal at Lowes and went with it. It is technically window flashing, some kind of tar based stuff on one side and foil on the other. As far as I can tell, there is no real odor, sticks pretty well to just about anything, and it's like $25 a roll. I put it inside the doors, and I plan to start pulling the side panels in the back and sticking it in there as well. Mostly for sound deadening, but my bare drivers floor and tranny hump have always gotten warm on road trips, so it will be nice to get my floor all insulated. Driving down the interstate it's hard to have a conversation in my truck now (even with window up), so maybe this will quiet things down a bit.
you've been busy! nice job on the floor panel. Yea its stupid frustrating to weld that 30 year old 20 gauge metal. my welds looked awful but like you, i got enough of them to bite that i felt confident enough to go with it. main thing is just keep it from rusting again, lather it with some por 15 or i use rustoleum undercoating cuz its nice and thick and rubbery. hit it again after a week or so. mine is holding up good so far.
I like the sound deadening, your going to feel like your in a Cadillac!
Nice job on the patch. This old Toyota steel is so paper thin, and the fact that there is rust, paint, sealer, sound deadening material, and whatever else on the metal.....it all makes it so difficult to weld on. You essentially have to spot tack everything in with a million tacks, then grind it all flat.. I really like the look of that tite seal stuff. I keep telling myself that with one of these builds, I am going to put something like this down.
I tried using a Harbor Freight welder for patching floor pans. I kept burning thru. I broke down and bought a welder with gas and it does alright on the floor pans but when doing work on the outer body, this Toyota sheet metal is to thin or something. When I weld on a domestic car that has thicker metal, I dont have near the problems. I have talked to Jason in tn, and he has far more welding experience then I do and he complains about Toyota metal. I have seen other complain on welding on Toyotas. Even spot welding is a pain in the rear for me on these trucks.
you've been busy! nice job on the floor panel. Yea its stupid frustrating to weld that 30 year old 20 gauge metal. my welds looked awful but like you, i got enough of them to bite that i felt confident enough to go with it. main thing is just keep it from rusting again, lather it with some por 15 or i use rustoleum undercoating cuz its nice and thick and rubbery. hit it again after a week or so. mine is holding up good so far.
I like the sound deadening, your going to feel like your in a Cadillac!
I am just hoping for an improvement, not that I take a lot of road trips, but you can barely talk to the passenger between wind noise, tire drone, exhaust, and plastic rattles. The good part is I can't hear the kids screaming in the backseat. Didn't I see where you put down the insulation? I can't remember.
Originally Posted by Gizler00
Nice job on the patch. This old Toyota steel is so paper thin, and the fact that there is rust, paint, sealer, sound deadening material, and whatever else on the metal.....it all makes it so difficult to weld on. You essentially have to spot tack everything in with a million tacks, then grind it all flat.. I really like the look of that tite seal stuff. I keep telling myself that with one of these builds, I am going to put something like this down.
Originally Posted by Terrys87
I tried using a Harbor Freight welder for patching floor pans. I kept burning thru. I broke down and bought a welder with gas and it does alright on the floor pans but when doing work on the outer body, this Toyota sheet metal is to thin or something. When I weld on a domestic car that has thicker metal, I dont have near the problems. I have talked to Jason in tn, and he has far more welding experience then I do and he complains about Toyota metal. I have seen other complain on welding on Toyotas. Even spot welding is a pain in the rear for me on these trucks.
Thanks Gizler & Terry...hmm maybe I'm not such a bad welder after all! I was very surprised at how thin the floorboard metal is.
Got a little bit of work done on the floor. I had to first run to Lowe's and get another roll of the Tite Seal to finish the drivers floor. So far I've used about 2 and 1/4 rolls and that has covered inside of both doors and entire passenger area floor. Still want to get some inside the rear side panels.
After finishing the Tite-Seal, I started trying to figure out the flooring. The ACC vinyl floor comes with felt insulation, 2 rectangular pieces with no real instructions as to what to do with them. Only thing I could really think of was to lay them in each floorboard. After this picture, I trimmed them right at the seat riser, so I ended up with a long piece for the front floorboard and a short piece that I'm going to stick in the rear floorboard. Did same for the passenger side.
Then I started laying the vinyl in there. The instructions say to fold it front to back and line up the seat riser hump. This material is thick and heavy, so it's not easy to work with. I had to remove the shifters first (duh!) to get this laid in there.
The instructions then say to cut at the center of firewall to get it to go up under dash. My truck has these little ears that stick up from the floor for mounting the shifter surround to. So I cut 2 long slits in the flooring to get those ears poked through and then started working and pulling to get the flooring up under the pedals and up on the firewall as far as I could. You have to really work this and trim as you go because there is just a lot of material. Here's where I ended up, and it's not quite where I want it on the drivers side, and then I gotta move over to passenger side and do the same.
Lol. I asked you a question on the other thread and got the answer over here. That stuff is heavy duty. Its gonna feel and look like a new truck with the peel ply and the new vinyl. Lookin good!
Never used that particular brand but I've used similar knock off Dynamat products in two vehicles and never noticed any smell with the heat. I don't live in Texas or anything, but in Southern Virginia it's pretty hot in the summer. Lots of days in the 90's and usually touch a hundred once or twice a year.
I like the vinyl flooring, it looks like it would be very durable, looks really good. I'm looking forward to hearing how the tite seal performs, I might have to do some sound proofing as well.
... This material is thick and heavy, so it's not easy to work with. ..
A hair dryer or heat gun may help convince it to conform to some dips and bumps on floor. How thick actually is the vinyl? 1/8 inch? Less?
Originally Posted by magnet18
Any smell off the tite seal?
I do not smell much of it either in the cabin, unless it's really hot and I try to smell inside the body panels. Oozes a little at the edges of each strip. It it really starts to bother me I could seal the seams with aluminum foil tape like this.
Originally Posted by rustED
I like the vinyl flooring, it looks like it would be very durable, looks really good. I'm looking forward to hearing how the tite seal performs, I might have to do some sound proofing as well.
I want to replace my dirt-trapping carpet with vinyl or rubber, too. Sound-dampening is really well worth it in my book, especially if using inexpensive material.
Ray - good idea on the heat gun, yeah this stuff is maybe 1/8"...I can let you know exactly if you want. Been working on removing a coconut palm from the backyard this week, so I have not finished the vinyl. All in all, so far, I think for the price this flooring is not too bad, my only real complaint is that it's really just barely "made to fit". The seat riser bumps are there, but that's about it. Sure would be nice if they put the seat rise bumps and some locator holes, like the seat mounting holes, maybe a small cutout around the shifter hole, and if they cut the center of the firewall a bit more for you.
Ray - good idea on the heat gun, yeah this stuff is maybe 1/8"...I can let you know exactly if you want....
Yes, please, Cory. Would like to know, so I'll have an idea IF the diamond plate garage floor runner I'm looking at which is also 1/8" would work, as well.
Thanks and regards.
04-13-2017, 02:37 AM
