bbrideau

I tried emailing the flamethrower guy about purchasing a set still have not heard back from him and he doesn't seem to have a listing on ebay at all for em really interested in these, glad to see they're working out for you!

RAD4Runner

Hi guys,
I have a deluxe so no Tach on dash. What would you recommend for a simple, robust tachometer / equipment for tune-up/troubleshooting tool, especially for a 22R-E?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

SR5 CLUSTER! Even then, they can be WAYYYY off. BUT, most often you'll be a t least close....and its not a complicated swap. Plus you'd get an oil pressure gauge. I'm out but I'm sure you could grab one pretty easily .... Its just my humble opinion, but while I would like to have more tools, especially that one... I think it would only be a bonus putting in the better cluster. I know you want to also get the tool and I think considering your level of expertise electronics even you would probably recommend a Fluke? I think the other one called Sunpower or something like that are pretty reputable as well for machinist and mechanics?

Cyberhorn The Dragon

the SR5 cluster can be set to read correctly just need a analyzer tach to know real RPM's an then adjust the dash tach appropriately

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

RIGHT! WHAT HE SAID! ^^^^^^^ Hahaha.....
Yeah, you were trying to help me with one of those..... I need to check on that on day. More concerned with accurate oil and water readings. lol

Cyberhorn The Dragon

theres a potentiometer behind the gauge face its how its adjusted

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-screw-177658/

part of the swap in this one tells how to adjust the tach
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...w-pics-179106/

coryc85

Ever since I have had working AC, I've never bothered with the AC idle up valve. But now with my new injectors, I can actually get a smooth idle below 1k, so the idle up has become more necessary. I watched Chef's videos on checking the VSV, which checked out fine (Thanks Chef!). I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it, and then I found this picture online.


There is a vac line that goes from the throttle body to the idle up valve, which I was missing. It was capped off. Luckily I have another upper intake in the garage and it had the hose on it, so I put the hose on mine, and voila...it works. I set the idle with AC to near 900 and with AC off, around 825.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

thats actually a bit of info ill need eventually thank you cory

coryc85

No problem Dragon...Chef did all the work, I just followed along. Check his videos on the VSVs, that's where you wanna start.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WooHoooooooooo!......Brrrr, turn that down please, sir? ... Hahaha. ... Hey man, I know lots poopoo AC ...... I understand all the opinions..... But I would rather have it than not

And having an idle up that works? Makes that great bonus even more priceless IMHO!

coryc85

I'm down to just under a half tank, but wanted to check mileage this morning so I stopped for gas. I put in 8.323 gallons and drove 147.8 miles since last week. That comes out to 17.76 MPG, nearly a 1 MPG improvement. I'm pretty happy with that, especially since I spent a fair amount of time idling in the driveway tweeking the idle and the AC idle up, etc. Also, this number is all city driving, ~14 miles each way to work all stop and go.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Since your idles been addressed do you think you're doing way better than 17.76 mpg? I would assume you are, I guess after a couple of fills you will have a better idea. I sure would like to know. I myself have a bunch more tweaking.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

This has the very curious... Even though I am going to do a motor swap eventually, that doesn't mean that in the meantime I don't want to add some good injectors and trying to get to the bottom of my gremlin while I'm at it. Actually it would be more like trying to get to the bottom of my grandma and then simultaneously throwing in some cool injectors! Very glad to hear that and I'm stoked for you man...!

coryc85

Junk - I don't think I'll be doing way better, maybe a tad better over the next few fill ups just because I probably won't be running the truck up to temp in the driveway. Some of these guys getting from 19 to low 20's must be coasting a lot, driving on 31's and downhill with the wind. I would expect that my highway mileage has gone up as well, so that might be 21 or 22 MPG.

Thanks Chef. I think for the cost of these flamethrowers, you can't go wrong. What exactly is your gremlin again?

coryc85

Radiator question for anybody who has some experience or an opinion...

My radiator has a some beat up fins, looks like fan may have hit it at one point in its life. Also I believe the soldered on lower mount is loose, so I can shake it a bit. So given all that, can a radiator shop repair this thing for a worthwhile price or would you just buy a new radiator? I'm all for keeping what I think is the OEM radiator with it's metal tanks if it can be reasonably put back to like new, but I think for a little over $100 I can get a new one.

Anyhow, I want to start gearing up to put in my electric Villager fan that I've had forever and might as well get the radiator in tip top shape while I'm messing with it.

And by the way, I'm hoping that the Villager fan will run with my OEM alternator, I'm a little concerned about that, but then again maybe that's a good excuse to upgrade the alternator. Also hoping the efan will move more air across my condenser and improve my air conditioning.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

yes, you can get an all-metal radiator online for a bit more than fixing the old one. i got mine from radiator barn, but they're out of business now.

here's a thread with a bunch of good info and some good links to other shops
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...83/index2.html

whatever you do, don't get a plastic-metal rad. they suck.

the fan should do okay* with the stock alternator, but i would definitely upgrade the wiring from a) the alt to batt, b) the engine block to the chassis, and c) the chassis to batt. it's called the "big three" upgrade, and there's a few good threads out there

*(but i would consider an upgrade soon)

Cyberhorn The Dragon

several all metal radiators are avail on ebay as well i got an all aluminum one with 3 cores for the 90 for 135 n its worked great

id have a shop look at it, fins can be fixed easy they even make a fin straightening tool my radiator both side plates were broken loose due to the bop she took to the nose an i sweat soldiered them back on easy not hard if youve done any copper water pipe repairs



DO NOT get any plastic an metal radiators they fail regularly and at the plastic potions also not repairable the aluminum is crimped an glued to the plastic

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Had the same issue on my radiator and didn't think anything of it, did the same as Cyberhorn and soldered it right up, except I used a little silver solder.

the fins you can get a FIN COMB from any HVAC shop or store that sells AC supplies, not sure how well they would work on the radiators as i never tried it on those before, but it should work fine since the concept of the fins are the same.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

thats the silver pipe soldier right there on the sawhorse (the red label) lol

Cyberhorn The Dragon

heres the people i got the 90's radiator from price has gone up but so has the price of metal

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Row-Toyota...-/111140232035