ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
03-20-2011, 08:41 AM
#1761
Registered User
As much as that is possible and all the symptoms would fall under that kind of problem, a valve guide that was THAT loose would rattle but would also be accompanied by oil consumption on decelleration and a "puff" of oil smoke when shifting. It is possible, but i don't know if it is probable.
Chef, have you checked to see if you have got a rocker hitting the valve cover? and for what it's worth, if i was 900 miles closer, i would swing in and help ya. i always like a good brain buster.....
Chef, have you checked to see if you have got a rocker hitting the valve cover? and for what it's worth, if i was 900 miles closer, i would swing in and help ya. i always like a good brain buster.....
Ok so it dose sound as if the guy installed the valves wrong in the head I think that you have a bad valve guide that at low RPM allows the valve to not to seat properly thus causing you're miss and poor fuel mileage. Like I said before just a guess could be wrong the reason I say I could be wrong is that my mechanical specialty is big diesels and such I play with my toyotas but don't profess to know everything and have guys who do profess to know everything get down right rude when I said somthing that I did not know as fact but was guessing just to help out and give a fresh look but I noticed that you and a few others are good guys and those are the people I would like to associate with and help out
03-20-2011, 08:44 AM
#1762
I would do a leak down test, that will let you know if the valve is seating right or not, the adjuster should be rounded at the bottom, looks like the close up adjuster could be a little flat or worn, the tip of the valve looks ok to me. I would try the adjusters and do a leak down test and go from there. Wish I was closer so i could give you a hand.
I also wish you were closer! hahaha. Ok, so, "The adjuster should be rounded at the bottom"????? All the new ones I'm seeing pics of, including LCE's site, seem to be very flat on the bottom. I really need to get a new one in my hand to be sure. Not saying you're wrong, ...maybe you mean that they 'wear into a dome pattern'??? Is the top of the valve supposed to be concave/spooned out a lil?
As much as that is possible and all the symptoms would fall under that kind of problem, a valve guide that was THAT loose would rattle but would also be accompanied by oil consumption on decelleration and a "puff" of oil smoke when shifting. It is possible, but i don't know if it is probable.
Chef, have you checked to see if you have got a rocker hitting the valve cover? and for what it's worth, if i was 900 miles closer, i would swing in and help ya. i always like a good brain buster.....
Chef, have you checked to see if you have got a rocker hitting the valve cover? and for what it's worth, if i was 900 miles closer, i would swing in and help ya. i always like a good brain buster.....
And, to answer those bullet points you mentioned;
* NO oil consumption that I can see, when shifting gears or otherwise. Only oil I'm losing is through the lil drips underneath(another story all together, mentioned above).
* The ONLY noise I can hear, definitively, is when I listen through a rocker cover STUD/NUT(The rear/driver side stud seems to be the loudest... And, that's also the stud CLOSEST to the close up picture on this page, #4 Exhaust Valve/Rocker/Adjuster).
* When I listen through the cover body, anywhere, pretty much, it's VERY quiet. (that's how I learned long ago to listen for something slapping the cover, where as the stud is dampened by the grommet, so you don't hear things hitting the cover so much as you hearing 'EVERYTHING joined together through that stud, within the valve train(I.e.; The entire rocker assembly, through vibration/contact), .....which you CAN NOT hear as much through just the cover body itself.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-20-2011 at 08:58 AM.
03-20-2011, 08:49 AM
#1763
Registered User
the valve should be flat from machining the installed height (if your machinist did it right) and the adjuster should have a slight convex on it like the bottom of a spoon. otherwise, you are going to not have a smooth valve event because of the arc that the adjuster travels on since being attached to the end of a rocker on a pivot.
03-20-2011, 09:12 AM
#1764
Ok, so, here are some pictures a great helping wheeler-brother has shot to me, recently, of new adjusters and REALLY TROUBLED worn one. The first pic is the new ones... and they look completely flat to me. Is it that, when I see them up close I'll see the slight rounding(which I assume is to avoid contact with the corners of the adjusters into the valves??...............NEW>>>
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This is one I was told, "You're not gonna like what comes next if they look like this, any of them".... WORN>>>
Please explain to me why they seem to be so flat on the bottom when "NEW"? Yet, the second pic, seems more 'crowned' like you said, even though it's obviously damaged. ??????????? lol.
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This is one I was told, "You're not gonna like what comes next if they look like this, any of them".... WORN>>>
Please explain to me why they seem to be so flat on the bottom when "NEW"? Yet, the second pic, seems more 'crowned' like you said, even though it's obviously damaged. ??????????? lol.
03-20-2011, 10:12 AM
#1766
Registered User
I would stop worrying about what they are supposed to and not supposed to look like and replace the screws and nuts. If the noise goes away then good. If not you'll have to look elsewhere. If you don;t like what you see on the tops of the stems on the valves (mushrooming etc etc) then new valves might be in order, in which case you might as well just get a new head from EB as the cost t do the valve job would be close to what it would cost you to buy a new stock style head from EB.
Some of that noise come to think about it could be worn rocker shafts or rocker journals as well. Meaning the shaft is too small for the rocker journals or vise versa. Basically the same theory as why rod bearings make noise when they are excessively worn.
Some of that noise come to think about it could be worn rocker shafts or rocker journals as well. Meaning the shaft is too small for the rocker journals or vise versa. Basically the same theory as why rod bearings make noise when they are excessively worn.
03-20-2011, 10:26 AM
#1767
Yeah, I hear ya, B. Ahhhhhhh. lol.
When you say mushrooming, do you mean that the top of the valve is indented inward or outward? I'll get pics, just curious. And, I'm really just curious as well as to how the screws wear into the valve stems. Your new stems, do they come perfectly flat and then wear into a very mild indentation on top of the stem? Just trying to understand how it all works, so maybe I can know what I'm looking for in the future or for someone else. I'll know what they look like new when I get them... but was just curious if they 'wear into' the stem-top, etc. Or, are they both supposed to remain flat?
Thanks for the 'straight up', I appreciate it... don't mean to ponder this to death, ..just really trying to learn.
Far as the rockers, ...they LOOKED new, and only slightly worn when we pulled the cam out(kept the rockers in order, etc.) And my buddy who helped me said, "The shafts, sleeves, etc., look new and stainless", which I think he was saying is better than the plastic ones(Don't the rockers roll on a sleeve? Sorry, can't remember, I'll look it up in my book, too.
When you say mushrooming, do you mean that the top of the valve is indented inward or outward? I'll get pics, just curious. And, I'm really just curious as well as to how the screws wear into the valve stems. Your new stems, do they come perfectly flat and then wear into a very mild indentation on top of the stem? Just trying to understand how it all works, so maybe I can know what I'm looking for in the future or for someone else. I'll know what they look like new when I get them... but was just curious if they 'wear into' the stem-top, etc. Or, are they both supposed to remain flat?
Thanks for the 'straight up', I appreciate it... don't mean to ponder this to death, ..just really trying to learn.
Far as the rockers, ...they LOOKED new, and only slightly worn when we pulled the cam out(kept the rockers in order, etc.) And my buddy who helped me said, "The shafts, sleeves, etc., look new and stainless", which I think he was saying is better than the plastic ones(Don't the rockers roll on a sleeve? Sorry, can't remember, I'll look it up in my book, too.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-20-2011 at 10:28 AM.
03-20-2011, 10:45 AM
#1768
Ok, the book says, "It should be noted that Rocker Arm Bores have Bushings in them that can be replaced with new ones(A job which should be done by a machine shop). If the bushings are replaced, make sure the oil holes in each rocker arm and bushing are aligned before assembling the rocker arm components". I seem to remember my buddy telling me "They look new and that they are the higher quality ones you can choose from", ..but I can't reach him for comment. He's out of town.
And, even the pic of the adjuster screw in the book looks slightly rounded, but smooth. I would assume that the top of the valve stem is rounded as well, and that, then, the Valve Stem or screws must be one, harder material than the other, correct?
Also, B, ...again, there is a difference of hundreds of dollars when dealing between "whether I need a head AND ROCKERS, ETC., ETC." or just the rocker assembly from LCE or something(which, I can't tell by their page if their assembly for 399$ includes all new Rockers, adjusters, nuts, shafts, ...everything. I wouldn't think so, as the rockers alone are like 250$ for all 8, alone. I'd have to call on Monday). Of course, YES, if I find a valve is just smashied, ......I understand, all the speculation in the world wont matter, because the head's gotta come off, be serviced, ...might as well do the new head, etc. I get it, trust me... AS WILL MY WALLET! lol.
And, even the pic of the adjuster screw in the book looks slightly rounded, but smooth. I would assume that the top of the valve stem is rounded as well, and that, then, the Valve Stem or screws must be one, harder material than the other, correct?
Also, B, ...again, there is a difference of hundreds of dollars when dealing between "whether I need a head AND ROCKERS, ETC., ETC." or just the rocker assembly from LCE or something(which, I can't tell by their page if their assembly for 399$ includes all new Rockers, adjusters, nuts, shafts, ...everything. I wouldn't think so, as the rockers alone are like 250$ for all 8, alone. I'd have to call on Monday). Of course, YES, if I find a valve is just smashied, ......I understand, all the speculation in the world wont matter, because the head's gotta come off, be serviced, ...might as well do the new head, etc. I get it, trust me... AS WILL MY WALLET! lol.
03-20-2011, 11:01 AM
#1769
Registered User
That's why I had said just replace the adjuster nuts and screws. If the problem goes away then your done. If not then your only out $25-30 or so and IMO need to be changed anyway.
If it's the valves, rocker arms, shafts that need to be replaced well, they all require the head to be removed. Unless you want to strap the head down and replace the shafts and take your chances on the head not moving when doing so.
Only thing to do there is take the rocker arm assembly to a machinist to measure and spec the clearances out between the shaft and bearing bore on the rockers. This way you know whether or not they should be replaced or not. All of this should have been done when the motor was originally tore apart. So you can make a determination on whether or not they should have been replaced or take chances but know if there is valve train noise where to go from there.
I am not sure on how to explain how they wear, but they are pretty darn flat maybe a slight roundish shape on the engines, but that photo shows the new ones pretty darn well. Imagine hitting the top of a nail with a hammer, what happens to the nail? Exact same mushrooming effect on the tops of the valve stems.
I would imagine the valve stems are gonna be a harder material then the adjusters just for the simple fact that the valves are exposed to alot hooter temps then the adjusters. This is one reason why there is an adjustment mileage interval with the adjusters because they do wear in and is also why you should after a short amount of time go back in and readjust new adjusters.
But without a video of the noise or photos of the tops of the valves other than the ones you've posted so far, everything is guess work and becomes quite difficult to explain everything in detail to ya. It's just much easier to explain why something is wrong then why something is right.
If it's the valves, rocker arms, shafts that need to be replaced well, they all require the head to be removed. Unless you want to strap the head down and replace the shafts and take your chances on the head not moving when doing so.
Only thing to do there is take the rocker arm assembly to a machinist to measure and spec the clearances out between the shaft and bearing bore on the rockers. This way you know whether or not they should be replaced or not. All of this should have been done when the motor was originally tore apart. So you can make a determination on whether or not they should have been replaced or take chances but know if there is valve train noise where to go from there.
I am not sure on how to explain how they wear, but they are pretty darn flat maybe a slight roundish shape on the engines, but that photo shows the new ones pretty darn well. Imagine hitting the top of a nail with a hammer, what happens to the nail? Exact same mushrooming effect on the tops of the valve stems.
I would imagine the valve stems are gonna be a harder material then the adjusters just for the simple fact that the valves are exposed to alot hooter temps then the adjusters. This is one reason why there is an adjustment mileage interval with the adjusters because they do wear in and is also why you should after a short amount of time go back in and readjust new adjusters.
But without a video of the noise or photos of the tops of the valves other than the ones you've posted so far, everything is guess work and becomes quite difficult to explain everything in detail to ya. It's just much easier to explain why something is wrong then why something is right.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 03-20-2011 at 11:03 AM.
03-20-2011, 11:24 AM
#1770
Yeah, makes good sense.
Ok, ...well, the valves look pretty flat, except that SOME are a lil spooned IN,...which I assume is just the adjusters TRYING to wear into the stem-tops. I think only on #3, not #4 in those pics, it's actually wearing properly, ...whereas with #4(the close up), it looks completely flat on both ends, ...am I right?
I'll get them out and get pics of all of them. And I PROMISE, I was already going to at LEAST order all new ones... I totally agreed with ya on that.
Far as more extensive top end needs, if needed, .... I did pull the rocker assembly to put in the new CAM, w/out removing the head. It hasn't leaked, etc. Also, it was more, for me, "put this here and then back there when done", ....not so much KNOWING conclusively EXACTLY how everything works in there. I do get the basics, just not the 'machinist semantics', ya know? I also understand the shafts oil ports, how the rockers need to be lined up perfectly, how the rockers can't have MUCH side to side play, etc. Just never replaced any of these yet.
My Drier SHOULD be here by tomorrow.... If it's not been shipped yet, I've already left Joe @ dealerdirectparts.com a message to call me so he can ship those too with the same order(free shipping on this order, cuz they held off on some things and promised me that
) I don't mind spending 10$ more if I'll get them faster, ya know? LCE ships pretty quick, if it's ddp.com has already shipped the drier, so either way I should only be down a couple days.
WHEN I install the new screws, how long do I wait before adjusting them, B? 500 Miles? Then again at 1500 or so? (similar to the new cam recommendations, right?) And, Yeah, I KNOW, ...if they tick right away, still, ..... and don't wear in and then quiet up... I guess I know I've got a valve/rocker issue, one or the other.
DAGNABBIT! lol.
Ok, ...well, the valves look pretty flat, except that SOME are a lil spooned IN,...which I assume is just the adjusters TRYING to wear into the stem-tops. I think only on #3, not #4 in those pics, it's actually wearing properly, ...whereas with #4(the close up), it looks completely flat on both ends, ...am I right?
I'll get them out and get pics of all of them. And I PROMISE, I was already going to at LEAST order all new ones... I totally agreed with ya on that.
Far as more extensive top end needs, if needed, .... I did pull the rocker assembly to put in the new CAM, w/out removing the head. It hasn't leaked, etc. Also, it was more, for me, "put this here and then back there when done", ....not so much KNOWING conclusively EXACTLY how everything works in there. I do get the basics, just not the 'machinist semantics', ya know? I also understand the shafts oil ports, how the rockers need to be lined up perfectly, how the rockers can't have MUCH side to side play, etc. Just never replaced any of these yet.
My Drier SHOULD be here by tomorrow.... If it's not been shipped yet, I've already left Joe @ dealerdirectparts.com a message to call me so he can ship those too with the same order(free shipping on this order, cuz they held off on some things and promised me that
) I don't mind spending 10$ more if I'll get them faster, ya know? LCE ships pretty quick, if it's ddp.com has already shipped the drier, so either way I should only be down a couple days. WHEN I install the new screws, how long do I wait before adjusting them, B? 500 Miles? Then again at 1500 or so? (similar to the new cam recommendations, right?) And, Yeah, I KNOW, ...if they tick right away, still, ..... and don't wear in and then quiet up... I guess I know I've got a valve/rocker issue, one or the other.
DAGNABBIT! lol.
03-20-2011, 12:57 PM
#1771
Registered User
hey chef, i have a lce catalogue and it says it includes everything to bolt on to your head . even the upgraded shafts. not really a bad deal ! i wonder if u have 2 send em any core ? like the towers or springs ?
03-20-2011, 01:17 PM
#1772
Hey Wayne, .... I think I wanna try the adjusters and nuts, first... just to see if I can save HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS! lol. But no, not a bad deal, as when you buy JUST THE ROCKERS from the dealer, it's close to 400$ lol. Trust me, it's definitely on the list of plans for the "IF THIS< THEN THAT> is next" agenda, lol.
Brandon, .... I will probably hold off on taking them out, just yet, because I have to probably use my truck tomorrow. Don't wanna pull it all down just to check and take pics, just yet. Besides, it takes me about 20 minutes to get it all down and ready to adjust. I'll find out tonight, and if they say "YEP, you need to take your own vehicle tomorrow", ....well, then I wont open her up tonight.
I have my Canon EOS ready to do some pics as my FREAKIN NIKON I use wont turn on.... new batteries, ...not sure what happened. I will get close up as possible pics in RAW of the tops of the valves, with assisted light, so maybe we can see if anything is "NOPE, that valve's not gonna make it long"ville! lol.
Brandon, .... I will probably hold off on taking them out, just yet, because I have to probably use my truck tomorrow. Don't wanna pull it all down just to check and take pics, just yet. Besides, it takes me about 20 minutes to get it all down and ready to adjust. I'll find out tonight, and if they say "YEP, you need to take your own vehicle tomorrow", ....well, then I wont open her up tonight.
I have my Canon EOS ready to do some pics as my FREAKIN NIKON I use wont turn on.... new batteries, ...not sure what happened. I will get close up as possible pics in RAW of the tops of the valves, with assisted light, so maybe we can see if anything is "NOPE, that valve's not gonna make it long"ville! lol.
03-20-2011, 02:11 PM
#1773
Well, I did do the high/low-larger o-rings on the compressor(4 of them), and every other o-ring under the hood. But, I'll wait till the drier comes to do the rest(have to pull the grill, don't wanna do it twice, before I put in my new grill mounting clips! lol..... here's some pics of what I found, including, .....underneath the High Pressure side, where the 2 large o-rings are, ....there was CLEARLY oil leaking out of there. They are so tight, it must be an amazing amount of pressure that forced that large o-ring on the high-pressure side to bust. Looks like both of them on that side were leaking.....
Before;
After;
Cleaned up both sides of these..
All this crap came off of just the high pressure side mounting valve(the piece that bolts to the compressor with the 2/O-rings each side)......
All new o-rings on these(4 total)........
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At least I got SOMETHING POSITIVE DONE, RIGHT? hahaha.
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OH, and this guy visited me the other day when I was planting an apricot tree... (think he was grubbin on the nectarrrrrr of the other Apricot Tree that's in full bloom! lol....
lol..... here's some pics of what I found, including, .....underneath the High Pressure side, where the 2 large o-rings are, ....there was CLEARLY oil leaking out of there. They are so tight, it must be an amazing amount of pressure that forced that large o-ring on the high-pressure side to bust. Looks like both of them on that side were leaking.....Before;
After;
Cleaned up both sides of these..
All this crap came off of just the high pressure side mounting valve(the piece that bolts to the compressor with the 2/O-rings each side)......
All new o-rings on these(4 total)........
************************************************
At least I got SOMETHING POSITIVE DONE, RIGHT? hahaha.
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OH, and this guy visited me the other day when I was planting an apricot tree... (think he was grubbin on the nectarrrrrr of the other Apricot Tree that's in full bloom! lol....
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-20-2011 at 02:14 PM.
03-20-2011, 04:17 PM
#1774
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Chef you should just get one of Putney's Performance cylinder heads and call it a day! Just remeber .."you get what you pay for" This guy builds THE Best heads for 22r/e motors in my research (read the info on his site). He also grinds his own cam profiles similar to Engbuilder but he always uses OEM cores and also has EFI and Carb specific profiles. I Just purchased his Performance head and he is making it for me as i type so i cant wait till i get my hands on it! I called and talked to him personally to make my order(actually the only way to make an order) and his knowledge and customer service is AMAZING!
Here's his site if you haven't been on it already.
http://22reperformance.com/22RE%20Pe...r%20heads.html
Here's his site if you haven't been on it already.
http://22reperformance.com/22RE%20Pe...r%20heads.html
Last edited by spc mike; 03-20-2011 at 04:20 PM.
03-20-2011, 04:31 PM
#1775
Registered User
ooooo oooooo ooooo
I want I want.
ooops sorry got carried away there.
So what's wrong with the EB heads? I have yet to see anyone on here that has a problem with their heads, whether it be the stock or RV head. And there is alot of us.
I want I want.
ooops sorry got carried away there.
So what's wrong with the EB heads? I have yet to see anyone on here that has a problem with their heads, whether it be the stock or RV head. And there is alot of us.
03-20-2011, 04:37 PM
#1776
Hey Mike, ...yeah, someone was asking me about getting one of his High Volume Rocker shafts.... I couldn't share, didn't know much about it. I'll look into the site.
PS> Yes, I too am curious what you might feel about Engnbldr, etc. I know LCE makes great heads too, around 1400$. Is Cougar going this route too? Or did he do his already...can't remember. Hmmm, lol.
PS> Yes, I too am curious what you might feel about Engnbldr, etc. I know LCE makes great heads too, around 1400$. Is Cougar going this route too? Or did he do his already...can't remember. Hmmm, lol.
03-20-2011, 05:05 PM
#1777
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The saying "The same for less or more for the same" comes to mind when comparing Putney's heads to LCE's. You wont need more porting, bigger valves, or a more aggressive cam profile than what Putney's heads and cams offer for a reliable street/trail truck. What i like about his heads is that they are optimized for a stock fuel system and even comply with CA emissions equipped trucks. He even goes the extra mile to cut out the non powdered exht valve seats and put new (OEM Quality) powder metal exhaust seats in. I would say call Jim and pick his brain a little, i was very appreciative for the amount of knowledge he had to offer on heads and different suppliers practices...... and of course he can build a Full RACE head if you request it, and i almost can guarantee its less than what LCE wants.
Last edited by spc mike; 03-20-2011 at 05:07 PM.
03-20-2011, 08:35 PM
#1778
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Hey chef hope you get that tick. I seen on here you maybe looking into a new head and that spc mike said something bout the putney's heads. I went with the putney's performance head and i must say best upgrade i have made to my truck and like spc mike also said the performance head is maxed out but you aint gota change any part of your fuel system. Go to www.22reperformance.com and check out all the stuff they do to make that head bad*** plus at 850+shipping and that includes new 280/440 cam with a 40 dollar core on old cam. But like i said the combo with that head cam and lce header WOW major differance
03-20-2011, 09:59 PM
#1779
Hey guys, .....
Mike, Baddest, thanks again for the insight. I'm going to have to try EVERYTHING I can, first, because, well, ...I'll have to come up with at least a Grand for that head, Head Gasket, at least the new adjusters and whatever to make sure my rockers are in specs(possibly have them done again), ......intake gaskets, exhaust gasket, exhaust studs(although, mine are around 3800 miles old, it's not worth it -- 17.00 or so from LCE)... it's a big deal. I mean, WTH, ..... who knows what I'd see when I pull the head, ya know?
Even from Engnbldr, 500$ or so for the head, adjusters and nuts for 40$, I SHUD be ok with the CAM I already have, ....but with my past with Murphy's Law, ...yeah, I'd have to include it in the list of things that might have to happen....HG for ??? .... yeah, it's VERY costly, either way, and please, bear with me, just for the sake of mercy after all I've been through? hahaha.
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1. I have a lil miss
2. It does NOT tick until it's warmed up for a minute or so
3. After I replaced the exhaust gasket with the Remflex, it quieted up quite a bit.
WTH? hahaha
PS> I WOULD HAVE VIDEO WITH AUDIO, but my camera suddenly stopped even turning on! I have a Canon EOS, ......doesn't help me with video. Doubt my phone would be any good at all. Wish I had a tool that let you mic a stethoscope! hahaha. Gonna probably take it to Japanese Auto Center again, tomorrow(the guy who found the CAM issue). Maybe he'll help me out.
Mike, Baddest, thanks again for the insight. I'm going to have to try EVERYTHING I can, first, because, well, ...I'll have to come up with at least a Grand for that head, Head Gasket, at least the new adjusters and whatever to make sure my rockers are in specs(possibly have them done again), ......intake gaskets, exhaust gasket, exhaust studs(although, mine are around 3800 miles old, it's not worth it -- 17.00 or so from LCE)... it's a big deal. I mean, WTH, ..... who knows what I'd see when I pull the head, ya know?
Even from Engnbldr, 500$ or so for the head, adjusters and nuts for 40$, I SHUD be ok with the CAM I already have, ....but with my past with Murphy's Law, ...yeah, I'd have to include it in the list of things that might have to happen....HG for ??? .... yeah, it's VERY costly, either way, and please, bear with me, just for the sake of mercy after all I've been through? hahaha.
******************************************
1. I have a lil miss
2. It does NOT tick until it's warmed up for a minute or so
3. After I replaced the exhaust gasket with the Remflex, it quieted up quite a bit.
WTH? hahaha
PS> I WOULD HAVE VIDEO WITH AUDIO, but my camera suddenly stopped even turning on! I have a Canon EOS, ......doesn't help me with video. Doubt my phone would be any good at all. Wish I had a tool that let you mic a stethoscope! hahaha. Gonna probably take it to Japanese Auto Center again, tomorrow(the guy who found the CAM issue). Maybe he'll help me out.
03-21-2011, 02:52 PM
#1780
OK< here's the best videos I could get, with sound. My cam started working again, not sure what happened.
1st Video; Around 3:30, I can hear it best
2nd Video; About the same, 3:30.
If you listen from there, 3:30 on both of them, you probably will hear it. I even hear some spots, now, where it's running on as I'm letting down the idle from 3000rpm or so. Also, when at 2200 or so, holding it, it seems to be pretty loud now, once warmed up. When cold, I can't really hear much of anything wrong. I'm also posting some pictures, first, of the exhuast ports and gasket that I took off. Just curious what you think of that BLACKNESS after only 3000 miles. I know, that could be something in the EFI causing it to run so rich. No idea... but I would imagine if the inside of the exhaust ports look like this, .....what do the valve seats look like??? OR, is this normal?>>>>>>>
Here are the videos, 1 and 2. They're kinda loud, but I found that I can't hear it at all when the sound is down. If you can bear it, like I said, at around 3:30 onward. If you wanna listen to the whole things, great, maybe you'll hear some of it as I did..... Thanks, Mark.
1st Video; Around 3:30, I can hear it best
2nd Video; About the same, 3:30.
If you listen from there, 3:30 on both of them, you probably will hear it. I even hear some spots, now, where it's running on as I'm letting down the idle from 3000rpm or so. Also, when at 2200 or so, holding it, it seems to be pretty loud now, once warmed up. When cold, I can't really hear much of anything wrong. I'm also posting some pictures, first, of the exhuast ports and gasket that I took off. Just curious what you think of that BLACKNESS after only 3000 miles. I know, that could be something in the EFI causing it to run so rich. No idea... but I would imagine if the inside of the exhaust ports look like this, .....what do the valve seats look like??? OR, is this normal?>>>>>>>
Here are the videos, 1 and 2. They're kinda loud, but I found that I can't hear it at all when the sound is down. If you can bear it, like I said, at around 3:30 onward. If you wanna listen to the whole things, great, maybe you'll hear some of it as I did..... Thanks, Mark.
