ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I don't trust him at all, Brandon... and in fact, he offered to "sell me a metal guide kit"... that was the last we spoke.

So, the black part on the valve is at an angle, that's what you're saying, right? Not the adjuster. (speaking of the pic that is not a close up)...That's actually #3 Rocker on the exhaust side.... #4 is the close up one.

xxxtreme22r

both look like they are worn not even. The rocker adjuster itself looks like it's worn at an angle and not the valve. When the valves are closed they will be at a slight angle anyway, but when the rocker comes into contact with the valve it should be as flat as possible.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hmmmm, well, Ok, in the first pic, that is #3 adjuster screw...I took the pic when I was checking the lash 1 and 3. The second pic(blown up), is #4, and that pic was taken when I was checking the lash of 2 and 4. What i mean is, they were not all the way down because they were loose... Not sure if that matters. I suppose you see what you see, and I guess it doesn't matter if those were loose at the time? IOW, when I look at them when they're tight(pressing down on the valve....they're plum/flat-together. They only look like that when they're on the adjustment stroke.

??????

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see you are staying after the Tick problem, seen you work quite a few other problems as well. Maybe today is the day you get it.

How come I always wind up going to kitchen when I am on your thread?? lol The picture above looked great.

I would like to see your fix to this problem, might help me with mine. Hang in there.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey terry, ALL Y'ALL, ...

Went out last night and slapped in the Remflex. It seemed to quiet up a bit at first... but then the ticking came back.....BUT, FAR less pronounced, and back to the only from 1000-1800 or so. WTH? lol. I know you don't retorque these(it's not needed), but I just checked em after 20 min, ......they were almost all loose. So, I got them all back to 16#(recommended)AFTER FULLY cooled down again...., and I"ll check in later. I have to drive to Hollywood today for setting up a gig, ....but only for a couple hours, and it will give me a good idea if the Remflex helped my issue a lil/a lot/none ,lol.

Thanks, Brandon, ...really appreciate the input, as always!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ok, well, I had time before I leave at 11am to drive it around. And, unless there is a serious gash in my head on the exhaust port side, ....Unless I still have a leak that produces the same noise between 1000 and 1800 or so RPM's, ... I'M SCREWED!

When I listen to the Rocker Cover Studs, again, listening in on the valve train, it still seems to be louder at the rear/driver/exhaust side stud. What I hear is a lillllllll more 'tick'(but as I said it's constant, not intermittent like what I hear w/out the scope) and I also hear a bit of a "shrushh-shrushh-shrushh" sound than from any of the other rocker studs. I hope you can discern what I mean by that sound. It's almost like a dishwasher, when it pushes pressure through the jets, just obviously more rapid(with the speed of the rockers/cam-lobes.

At this point, I guess I have no choice but to replace all the Valve Adjuster Screws and Nuts. But, at that point, if I hear ANY noise after the second valve lash adjustment thereafter the install of said screws/nuts.... THIS HEAD IS OUT OF HERE! To be honest, I'm beginning to think that he machined my valves, too, not replacing them as I ordered.

I hope this thread serves ANYONE looking into this type of larger job to RESEARCH YOUR MACHINIST, WELL, AND ONLY go with one that will not only honor their work(through track record) but whom you can verify(also through track record) has a STELLAR record with the BBB, Throughout whatever communities you trust online(and not from Tom, Dick and Harry, either, ....from ACTUAL, LEGITIMATE GURU'S!)

My original plan was to just spend the 2G's or so and do the LCE Long Block(mild performance, nothing crazy)...... That probably would have saved me around 200 HOURS AND LOTS OF MONEY, IN RETROSPECT-ANALYSIS! Secondly, ...... I COULD HAVE REBUILT IT MYSELF, and much more likely would have learned even MORE, and not wound up with issues like I have. Knowing myself, I would have started with a BRAND NEWLY Cast Head, all new OEM Rockers, Adjuster Screws/Nuts(IF A GOODDDDDD machinist told me mine were spent), 261 CAM to BEGIN WITH, which is what I TOLD HIM I WANTED, IN THE FIRST PLACE(boy, live and learn to STICK TO YOUR OWN AGENDA, EH??????) ...... And heck, I might have even gone with a BB-Throttle Body, Ported Intake and STILL NOT HAVE SPENT what I have in time and money up to this point!
****************************************

OK, I'm done, lol.... But just wanted to share that with ANYONE, as I said, who is diving into 'doing a rebuild/etc'.

QUESTION;

Is there a way, conclusively, that I can tell whether or not I have a valve issue? Leak down? Etc....

My reason for asking, guys, is I'M DONE chasing my tail. I could have swapped out the top end of this motor 3 TIMES, by now, and wouldn't have missed out on 3-4 trips, visiting my father who is not exactly doing to great, ...yeah, etc., etc.... And then again, ...I don't want to swap out the head if I don't have to. Could anyone walk me through this, you know, to keep me in line with a good P.O.Elimination, so I can put this to rest ONCE AND FOR ALL!?!?!?

PS> IF I DO have a valve train issue, whether by set screws or valves or WHATEVER, ...could it be causing my poor mileage? IEven BABYING IT, a whole tank, I figured it out to around 16MPG/City(yes, often bad traffic, etc., but STILL) and MAYBE 18-20 HWY! I'd guess more like 18, but I've not wanted to drive this thing too much on a long trip....hope you can understand why.

nvtoyota

Sorry to hear you're having these problems

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, NV! Me too.... yet as I always say, "Ok, just tell me how to solve it, ....no sense 'pondering' endlessly", lol. I KNOW, guys,.... it seems that way. But I hope I can justifiably say "I've had quite a few strange issues, many hard to diagnose, etc.".... And, I don't mean to sound whiny, ....I'm just REALLY ticked off at this point that I'm having to, YET AGAIN, dig into the top end, possibly even replace the head, ya know?

BRANDON, .... Were you saying that, "When I swap out all the new adjuster screws/nuts, I need to break them in for (HOW LONG?) and then adjust the valves again, ..then back in and do it again(in how long?)" ??? I'll write Ted again, ....just curious what you were saying, exactly. OH, and I wanna be sure I got you right when you said, "If any of the adjuster screws on the bottom look like the one in the PM, ..... ???? (What, the valves wont just simply wear in to a new set of screws, and they'll need to be replaced?)???" Also, those pics of the good ones in your PM, ....were those yours? And, did you have them shaved down or something? Or were they new? They look weathered, so I'm just asking. Thanks, Brandon,

Mark

nvtoyota

So I have been thinking about you're issues as of late I was thinking with all that you have had go wrong with the cam and valve adjustment mabey one of the valves is messed up ore he didn't seat them correctly and now something has worn improperly during the time since you put it together and now you have a tick just a thought so I guess I vote pull the head check you're clearances and valve guides and springs to make sure something isn't knocking around in there as it gets quieter with the exhaust properly torqued down just a thought I could be compleatly wrong but if one part is installed wrong on might wear other parts out quickly or improperly

Lumpy

Ok, I just skimmed the past page and your one post really caught me eye...about the valves being replaced or not.

Now I know the adjusting screws play a part here but I really don't think this is your issue. It can't hurt to replace them though.

Back to the valves. If "your guy" didn't replace the valves and just pulled them, cleaned them, and tossed them in this very well could be your issue. If he didn't put them back in the right order and if not seated properly this very well could cause your issue. The first time I did my H/G I lapped my valves to reseat them and it worked out alright. My feeling on this is that on an older motor you should keep them all in order even if you do machine it down a bit and do a "pro" job on the seating.

I will tell you that I'm very happy with the 268 cam and Street R/V head. Just sayin.

Try a leak down test might get some answers there.
.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey NV, .....NEVER worry about "could be wrong", ...especially if you include that disclaimer in your input,ya know? haha. And, you're probably right. I was going to just try replacing the adjuster screws/nuts, all of them, first. Inspect the top of the valves, etc., while in there, .....then decide. I wish the job wasn't so extensive(for me it is, as I have only 'now and then' time to get out there, ya know?)... .but whatever, it is what it is, aint it? lol. The replacing of those and then adjusting the valves a couple times, should it work, is a few hours, all sessions included in said time allowed. However, ...if it doesn't work, .......it's a few hours wasted! lol. I suppose I could get that stuff out and inspect them all, really get a good look at everything and see if things are TWEAKED, etc., ...and then if it's questionable at all, just pull the head. What choice would I have, at that point, eh? (yeah, I guess I could just drive it until it explodes, then start over, lol. BTW, I will pull the motor if I do the head. Why? Because I have to do the pan, ONCE AND FOR ALL, the right way, ON A STAND, leaving NO leaks, period! Also,.... I have to see why I have oil/gear oil(not sure) leaking from the inspection "GAP" on the bottom/center of the bell housing(you know, that lil rectangular cut out. The Rear Main, ...I replaced it, but that doesn't mean it's not leaking. Also, since I don't know, it could be the Trans-Main seal leaking(Cuz the pan is NOT LEAKING, AT ALL, from the rear... so I'm SURE it's not that. It's definitely something inside the bell housing on either side.

Whatever I do I'd like to get on it asap. Wish I had someone round her to help. I think there was one guy offering to lend a hand.... Might give a call. I'd have done the adjuster screws today if I'd had em.... but alas, I'll have to wait till Monday, ....UGHHHH! LOL. I think I'll check the compression, tomorrow.

Lastly, I shud add;

After putting the Remflex gasket on, its' definitely quieter.... but I still have the tick. ALSO, when it's cold, ...it doesn't tick at all. Only after it warms up a minute or so. Once it's warm, it does tick from 1000 to around 1800-2000rpm, ...and it seems like I'm hearing some chatter in there, not sure from what. Seems like it's 'running on' after I let off the gas, and when I hold the throttle, it seems to make a backpressure noise, only some times. Once it's really warm, 20 minutes, when I park, ....I don't know, it almost seems as if it's "OFF".

* The timing is dead on and yet bounces between 6-8*BTDC

* When coming down a hill, even at like 50mph in 3rd, ....NO RADICAL TICKING, no backfire, misfire, ...NOTHING!

* Each time I've checked the valves since installing the cam, they've been pretty close(wouldn't a stuck or sticking or loose valve wind up way out of whack after a 1000 or so miles?)

* I don't seem to be burning any oil

* I don't hear any noticeable deeper metallic noises, just the 'tick-tick-tick'

* I don't hear any nasty rattling of the valves, as you'd hear with one that's sticking(usually, but in my case, WHO KNOWS what could be going on, lol)

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Lumpy, ...man, I really appreciate it when you guys chime in! It's not that I'm clueless, hahaha...It's just that I really don't know where to start looking, or if I should just START OVER, ya know what I mean? Very tired of this chasing of the tail thing... and to be honest, I still have a LIL TINY miss, that pretty much anyone driving could hear at an idle or up to 2000rpm.... however, when I held it tonight at around 3000rpm, ....it was BUTTER! SEE WHAT I MEAN? With a sticking valve, ......isn't it likely that when at lower RPm's, you could hear a clear LIL miss, as is the case with mine. Yet, when you stomp on it or are coming down a hill at 3000-3500rpm, .... NOTHING, because the valve is under so much pressure from the Rate of RPM's that it can't resist or stick? Also adding; When on the freeway, etc., it's REALLY responsive, up to 85-90, and NO missing, whatsoever. (would that be more likely that, again, it's not missing or sticking because it's under load at 50-80MPH, ...where it can't really get stuck?) Also, where I seem to get better mileage(all speculation, I know... But either way, i have to figure out why such 'AVERAGE' mileage, if not down right bad! lol. 15.8MPG???? C'MONNNNNN, after all this work, mods, etc?)

Just out of curiosity, Lumpstizzle, lol.... why do you say "You don't think it's as likely that the screws/nuts are the issue? Can you tell by the pic I posted, the close up, if that valve looks a lil aged for around 3K miles?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Lumpy, ....if I did go with the Street RV, ... wouldn't I need to have the block decked .010?

Lumpy

Well changing them isn't going to hurt probably help out but I just don't see them causing the "ticking" your hearing. I could be way off though I have been wrong before.

As for the valves they may not be sticking as much as not sealing proper. This could cause your miss under lower RPM and not hearing it at higher. Higher RPM more pressure better seal.

But start with the adjuster screws...Donno maybe a rocker is worn and wiggling about.

Lumpy

Nope straight fit...

nvtoyota

Ok so it dose sound as if the guy installed the valves wrong in the head I think that you have a bad valve guide that at low RPM allows the valve to not to seat properly thus causing you're miss and poor fuel mileage. Like I said before just a guess could be wrong the reason I say I could be wrong is that my mechanical specialty is big diesels and such I play with my toyotas but don't profess to know everything and have guys who do profess to know everything get down right rude when I said somthing that I did not know as fact but was guessing just to help out and give a fresh look but I noticed that you and a few others are good guys and those are the people I would like to associate with and help out

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I hear ya, NV, .... I'm a fairly nice guy, .... but I've learned to BREAK OFF A BIT'O'SUH'IN-SUH'IN when I'm disrespected past my limits! lol. Honestly, I appreciate any and all input, and don't worry, you can share anything, even a silly guess if it comes to mind.... you'll not get flack like on many other threads(even some on this site, hahaha). Of course, I've been razzed a few times, but that's cuz they love me! hahahaha.

Far as the valve suggestion... it's possible, maybe even likely, ...but NOT positive, ya know? That's the biggest issue I've had with about everything I've encountered on this scale.... it's all either huge or something minor resulting in HUGE LABOR, lol. Now, seems like it MIGHT just lead to the big one again, lol.

Hey Lumpy, ....

Thanks, bud. Only problem I might have with that is that I've broken this 261 in already into this head. (???)

Also, I'd still want to do all new adjusters and nuts for the head and my cam....

That would bring me to;

$40.00 even or so from LCE for OEM Adjusters and Nuts
$448.00 for the Street RV Head
$???.00 for the Head Gasket
$.......... Intake Gaskets
$.......... WHATEVER else.

You get the point. I know, it'll be a bit more if I blow a valve into pieces when a piston hits it... yeah, not good, lol. It's not sounding like that, to be honest. But whatever it is, it's not right, trust me. Aside from the power I have in this thing,.....NOTHING has seemed "JUST RIGHT" from the get, lol.

I'll sleep on it and think it over. Thanks so much, guys. Looking at the cost, I think I might just HAVE to try the Adjusters and nuts, first. That's 40$ from LCE FOR OEM. (or around 100$ from the dealer! GEEEESH, rape! lol)<NO KIDDING, ...8.68$ for Adjusters, 3$ or so for the nuts?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> NO MATTER WHAT, if I do pull this head.... I'm going OEM on the HG, PERIOD. Mine lasted 160K, .....I just can't argue with that, man! lol

My question is, ... ANY 'BEST PRICE IN THE MARKET' sites you could remind me of?

PS> OH< and I haven't ruled out just pulling this head, having it machined if needed, replace all the valves, IF needed, .... go from there, get my cam back in and drive it, ya know?

nvtoyota

Hey when you get it all fingered out let us know very interested

c0ugar69

I would do a leak down test, that will let you know if the valve is seating right or not, the adjuster should be rounded at the bottom, looks like the close up adjuster could be a little flat or worn, the tip of the valve looks ok to me. I would try the adjusters and do a leak down test and go from there. Wish I was closer so i could give you a hand.