ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#1601
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: northen nevada
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Hey great job Chef read the whole build you hag fixed just about every thing that could go wrong congratulations on doing something well and never giving up now on to the fun stuff like enjoying the knowledge that you fixed it and can drive it with pride
#1602
YOU GUYS ROCK, SERIOUSLY, ....THANKS 4 THE HELP AND ENCOURAGEMENT! Hopefully it'll hold.... if not, I've adopted one of my Mentors Theories, .....it's quoted in my sig! hahaha.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 02-26-2011 at 09:32 AM.
#1603
Registered User
your 4runner is one SWEET looking truck!!!
i actually went and measured the sagging on mine after you mentioned it and I'm just shy of 12"...so not too bad, maybe it looks worse because the parking lot isn't flat and/or the pictures...lol but I already showed the hubby this thread to improve my ride
i actually went and measured the sagging on mine after you mentioned it and I'm just shy of 12"...so not too bad, maybe it looks worse because the parking lot isn't flat and/or the pictures...lol but I already showed the hubby this thread to improve my ride
#1604
your 4runner is one SWEET looking truck!!!
i actually went and measured the sagging on mine after you mentioned it and I'm just shy of 12"...so not too bad, maybe it looks worse because the parking lot isn't flat and/or the pictures...lol but I already showed the hubby this thread to improve my ride
i actually went and measured the sagging on mine after you mentioned it and I'm just shy of 12"...so not too bad, maybe it looks worse because the parking lot isn't flat and/or the pictures...lol but I already showed the hubby this thread to improve my ride
THANKS! Very kind of ya... and I hear ya on the 'parking lot isn't level' thing. Mine has a rake now, just a lil, cuz of the Zuk's, ...but when I'm on an incline(front up higher quite a bit), it levels out, hahaha. If you and your Hubby ever have any questions, I'll gladly give what I've got, .......not sure if it'll help, but I'll try. Thanks again, and best wishes with that rig'o'yours. Stay safe out there!
#1605
Next Step;
First, I'm going to inspect the rest of my AC system(I think AA did this), and fix it, once and for all. If my compressor is bad, I'll skip it, but the clutch seems to be fine and if I can get enough of fluid in it to test the 'switch' and idle up,....I'll move forward from there.
Any tips would be appreciated. I've got all the OEM O-rings, some of them replaced, gonna figure out the rest.
THEN, it's on to the Suspension(or first, depending on when my buddy is available to do this).
First, I'm going to inspect the rest of my AC system(I think AA did this), and fix it, once and for all. If my compressor is bad, I'll skip it, but the clutch seems to be fine and if I can get enough of fluid in it to test the 'switch' and idle up,....I'll move forward from there.
Any tips would be appreciated. I've got all the OEM O-rings, some of them replaced, gonna figure out the rest.
THEN, it's on to the Suspension(or first, depending on when my buddy is available to do this).
#1607
Hahahaha.... thanks, coops, ...not sure about that, but it's getting more and more new, each month, hahaha.
I would like to have AC when it hits the 90's, which is why I'm reaching out for some more Yotatechie Input! ????????? lol After the AC is done and Suspension is done, .......well, ....then it'll be new enough for me! hahaha.
I would like to have AC when it hits the 90's, which is why I'm reaching out for some more Yotatechie Input! ????????? lol After the AC is done and Suspension is done, .......well, ....then it'll be new enough for me! hahaha.
#1610
Hahahaha. I hear ya. I've learned a bit about it, and I know how the Idle Up can't really work without a 'certain amount' of refrigerant still in the system(not without bypassing the idle up plug behind the AC clutch). I know the Schraders CAN give up the ghost, leaking VERY slowly, ..but still not sure that's what is up with mine. I'd really like to verify how bad/if any my leak is, then decide whether it's worth it for now. Most of the work in the CAB of the rig is really not something I wanna mess with. I'm going to be asking my neighbors buddy what he thinks, soon, and maybe hit his AC shop for a 'test', ...couldn't be too much to find a leak/if any, right? Pretty sure my Clutch is still fine and the compressor as well. It still had plenty of oil in it when I removed it recently. (OIL, not Fridge-Go-Go, lol)
PS> Ian, you noticed improved performance, etc., with your Supra AFM? I know it seems to be a popular mod, just haven't bit the bullet yet. Not an emergency, but DEFINITELY interested, ya know?
PS> Ian, you noticed improved performance, etc., with your Supra AFM? I know it seems to be a popular mod, just haven't bit the bullet yet. Not an emergency, but DEFINITELY interested, ya know?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 02-28-2011 at 09:37 AM.
#1611
Anyone know what I should be looking at on the cost of......................;
Having all the Control Arm Bushings pressed out/new ones in? (I know, the uppers look to be a bit more of a witch! lol.. Maybe I could try it, but I've read nothing but, "OH THE HORRORRRRRRRRRRR!" on that one. Not sure I'm ready for yet another horror story just quite yet, hahaha.
Since I've been watching Brandon, ....I'm now thinking maybe it would be cheaper to get him a round trip ticket and let him, "YOU WILL NOT BEAT ME" on my rig, now! ??? hahaha. Maybe together we could get it done and fly him back in time for his Inspection! hahaha. Jk, jk, .....I'm willing to have a shop press em out/in, etc., ...just curious what y'all think I should pay 'NO MORE THAN', eh?
Having all the Control Arm Bushings pressed out/new ones in? (I know, the uppers look to be a bit more of a witch! lol.. Maybe I could try it, but I've read nothing but, "OH THE HORRORRRRRRRRRRR!" on that one. Not sure I'm ready for yet another horror story just quite yet, hahaha.
Since I've been watching Brandon, ....I'm now thinking maybe it would be cheaper to get him a round trip ticket and let him, "YOU WILL NOT BEAT ME" on my rig, now! ??? hahaha. Maybe together we could get it done and fly him back in time for his Inspection! hahaha. Jk, jk, .....I'm willing to have a shop press em out/in, etc., ...just curious what y'all think I should pay 'NO MORE THAN', eh?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-01-2011 at 05:28 PM.
#1612
Registered User
been a few days since I could check your thread mark glad to hear you got the steering problem fixed, sorry I couldnt help. good luck with the ifs rebuild.
#1617
Registered User
Well, if you can get a good price, under $100.00 to swap all the bushings on the 4 arms I think I'd take it. They can be a real bugger. but if you want to have a go at it give er hell! You will need as mfw suggested, press, vice and other stuff like the sort.
#1618
Thanks, Mike, Lumpy!
Ok, I'll see, in the next few days, whether I'll have time to do it(access to press, etc., as well), and then I'll decide. I'm gonna give that buddy a call and see where he's at with his Uniball conversion. He's giving me his arms, so if that's the case, for sure, then I'll just take his arms in and have all the things pressed in and out before I even tear mine down(THAT IS THE OPTIMAL PLAN, if possible! hahaha).
Also trying to figure out some stuff on the AC, and a good guy on here PM'd me and said, "You can't just screw on the retro fittings and fill. You have to pull the old schraders and then put on the new fittings. (Good thing I asked around, cuz Kragen, some specialist that was there, walked out and helped me last year, trying to put the new fittings in the retro kit on, .....W/OUT removing the old schraders.) Now, thinking about it with a lil more knowledge on the subject, ....MAKES SENSE! lol. How would the inner schraders get depressed if the upper fittings with new schraders are on top????? I'm definitely going to visit that store again, ....same one that kept selling me Power Steering fluid after I asked them to look it up! hahaha.
Keep in mind, I'm still debating whether or not to use R12. I can get it for 15$ a Pound. 3 pound system, from what I remember..... 45$, wouldn't I be better off with R12??? IF I DO, I really do have to figure out where it was leaking. I would have to replace the OEM schraders if I do(I would LIKE to, I should say, just to be sure they're nice and TOIGHT! lol.
Hope it's not leaking in the CAB or something, geesh, lol. Someone told me it's most likely from the thing by the AC Condensor(the thing with the window on top, sorry, can't remember off top of head).... Accumulator? hahaha.
Ok, I'll see, in the next few days, whether I'll have time to do it(access to press, etc., as well), and then I'll decide. I'm gonna give that buddy a call and see where he's at with his Uniball conversion. He's giving me his arms, so if that's the case, for sure, then I'll just take his arms in and have all the things pressed in and out before I even tear mine down(THAT IS THE OPTIMAL PLAN, if possible! hahaha).
Also trying to figure out some stuff on the AC, and a good guy on here PM'd me and said, "You can't just screw on the retro fittings and fill. You have to pull the old schraders and then put on the new fittings. (Good thing I asked around, cuz Kragen, some specialist that was there, walked out and helped me last year, trying to put the new fittings in the retro kit on, .....W/OUT removing the old schraders.) Now, thinking about it with a lil more knowledge on the subject, ....MAKES SENSE! lol. How would the inner schraders get depressed if the upper fittings with new schraders are on top????? I'm definitely going to visit that store again, ....same one that kept selling me Power Steering fluid after I asked them to look it up! hahaha.
Keep in mind, I'm still debating whether or not to use R12. I can get it for 15$ a Pound. 3 pound system, from what I remember..... 45$, wouldn't I be better off with R12??? IF I DO, I really do have to figure out where it was leaking. I would have to replace the OEM schraders if I do(I would LIKE to, I should say, just to be sure they're nice and TOIGHT! lol.
Hope it's not leaking in the CAB or something, geesh, lol. Someone told me it's most likely from the thing by the AC Condensor(the thing with the window on top, sorry, can't remember off top of head).... Accumulator? hahaha.
#1620
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
the cannister with the little window is your accumulator/drier unit, it's the 'filter' in the system; they're cheap and should be replaced, took only a couple minutes to swap out on mine.
I paid $175 for my whole system to be captured/dried and then dried/cleaned/flushed whaterver and refilled; I guess Harbor frieght has a vacuum unit that will do all that for about $200, next time I won't be using the shop!
I got a pack of new o rings for the whole AC system ($7) and replaced just the ones I was messing with to swap out the compressor/drier units and even after 12 years of age the old ones were still perfect!
from the advice I got doing mine recently, if you have the system apart, replace the accumulator/drier, any O-rings you mess with and the expansion valve. (and compressor if the clutch is bad). I didn't do the Exp valve on mine as the system was fine and still blowing perfect cold air and I guess it's a PITA to get to... IF you do need parts, check these guys out first:
http://www.techchoiceparts.com/
I was blown away with the price/quality of these guys on their stuff. I got a complete compressor/clutch assembly w/oil and drier and complete O-ring pack for $207 to my door. the only issue I had was that the pulley on the new unit was 1/2" bigger diameter and had to buy a different size belt but no big deal.
hopefully you don't need any parts though, if it's just a leak it might be a lot cheaper! Hopefully my recent AC experience can help you out at least a little... I'm also r134a not R12...
I paid $175 for my whole system to be captured/dried and then dried/cleaned/flushed whaterver and refilled; I guess Harbor frieght has a vacuum unit that will do all that for about $200, next time I won't be using the shop!
I got a pack of new o rings for the whole AC system ($7) and replaced just the ones I was messing with to swap out the compressor/drier units and even after 12 years of age the old ones were still perfect!
from the advice I got doing mine recently, if you have the system apart, replace the accumulator/drier, any O-rings you mess with and the expansion valve. (and compressor if the clutch is bad). I didn't do the Exp valve on mine as the system was fine and still blowing perfect cold air and I guess it's a PITA to get to... IF you do need parts, check these guys out first:
http://www.techchoiceparts.com/
I was blown away with the price/quality of these guys on their stuff. I got a complete compressor/clutch assembly w/oil and drier and complete O-ring pack for $207 to my door. the only issue I had was that the pulley on the new unit was 1/2" bigger diameter and had to buy a different size belt but no big deal.
hopefully you don't need any parts though, if it's just a leak it might be a lot cheaper! Hopefully my recent AC experience can help you out at least a little... I'm also r134a not R12...